The Best Tapenade

                 The best of many versions I tried in France was one made with both olives & figs

I’ve recently returned from several weeks in Provence with two Wine-Knows’ groups who stayed at the villa where Julia Child wrote her hallmark cookbooks, Mastering the Art of French Cooking.  One of the classical culinary stars of this French region is tapenade.  Tapenade is a finely chopped olive dish that is typically mixed with capers, anchovies, garlic, herbs and olive oil to form a thick paste.  Traditionally spread on a piece of bread, it is used mainly as an appetizer, however, I noticed in the last few years that many restaurants in this area are using it in other courses as well (e.g. chicken stuffed with tapenade, or a vegetarian dish studded with tapenade).

Tapenade is everywhere in Provence.  There are even dish towels and placemats with Tapenade recipes printed on them.  There are vendors at every Provencal outdoor market hawking free samples of the delectable treat.  I tasted tapenade in every flavor of the rainbow:  artichoke, sun-dried tomato, eggplant, and even hummus tapenade.  In every foodie shop I visited there were many different types available for purchase.  Some used the pungent local Niçoise olives, others used a mixture of black olives.  Some preparations featured only green olives, yet there were others that used a mixture of both black and green olives.

While I especially loved the artichoke and sun-dried versions, the one that really stood out for me was made with figs.  I simply couldn’t stop eating it.   I have tweaked several recipes and come up with my own fig masterpiece.  Do note that my recipe does not include anchovies.  While I love them, I felt they simply overwhelmed this version---regardless of how few I put in.   (BTW:  there is a traditional tapenade recipe featured in Julia Child’s cookbook but I much prefer the fig one as the figs add another level of complexity).

June's Fig & Olive Tapenade

• 1/3 cup dried figs (cut in small pieces)
• 3/4 cup water
• 1 C mixture of both green and black olives, pitted
• 1 1/2 tablespoon of lemon juice
• 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
• 1 small garlic clove
• 1/2 tablespoon capers (rinsed to get rid of brine, then drained & squeezed dry)
• 1 teaspoon fresh thyme (plus more for garnishing)
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• Baguette (sliced)
• Goat cheese (at room temperature)

Cook the figs with water on low-medium heat in a covered sauce pan for 20-30 minutes until they are soft.  Save the juice for thinning the tapenade

Put the drained figs, olives, lemon juice, mustard, garlic capers and thyme into a food processor.  Pulse several time to mix ingredients well and pulverize.  With the food processor running, slowly add the olive oil a half of teaspoon at a time to incorporate it into the paste.    Finally, thin the paste to the desired consistency with the left over fig water.  Taste for salt and adjust if necessary.

Serve over toasted baguette slices (brushed with olive oil prior to toasting), with goat cheese on the bottom, then topped with tapenade and fresh thyme.

Bon appetit!

  

Treasure Island---Sicily

                                      Magnificent wines & fabulous gastronomy await visitors

Italy’s Mediterranean destination-island is a treasure trove of perfect seafood, intensely flavored vegetables, superb olive oil, and world-class wines. Strongly influenced by its many conquerors---from the Greeks, to the Romans, the Arabs, the French and the Spanish---the island’s culture represents a unique crossroads of the Mediterranean.  Stunning island geography, along with a breathtaking tapestry of art and architecture (including two of the best-preserved Greek temples in the world), completes this Italian jewel.

Grapes are grown on the slopes of Mt Etna

One of the biggest show-stoppers of Sicily is its wines.  Prepare yourself for new varietals that only are  grown in Sicily.   Indigenous grapes such as Nero d’Avola, Frappato, Grillo, Catarrato, Carricante and Insolia are not grown elsewhere.  Adding to the attraction is that many of these grapes are grown in mineral-rich volcanic soil which imparts interesting complexities.   There’s no problem ripening fruit in Sicily due to its idyllic year around climate.  All of this translates into lush, fruit-forward wines with a hint of minerality.  Simply put, Sicily’s wines are stunning and full of unique personality.

                                           Even the eggplant are special varietals

Sicily’s cuisine is different from any other Italian region.  In fact, the mainland Italians consider Sicily a continent.   The island’s culinary prowess comes from its vivid and diverse background of past conquerors who left their indelible mark on Sicily’s gastronomic scene.  Expect hints of exotic spices like saffron and cinnamon paired with local ingredients—lemons, blood oranges, almonds, fresh capers, and wild mountain oregano.  There’s an abundance of fish and seafood, with swordfish being one of the specialties.

    Vegetables are like you've never had them before 

Wine Knows will be visiting Sicily during their grape harvest in September 2020.  The trip is sold out.  If you will not be joining us but wish to explore the island's great quality/price ratio wines, here are my suggestions for the best producers, listed in alphabetical order:

• Cusumano
• Donnafugata
• Occhipinti
• Passopisciaro
• Planeta
• Tenuta Fessina
• Tenuta delle Terre Nere

 Ciao!

Worth Its Salt

                                      Watermelon nibbles are a luscious summer appetizer

Beloved friends of mine gifted me with a culinary salt block and I became an instant fan.  Not only is this a magnificent serving vessel for a variety of foods, but the block of salt also cleverly flavors the food.  Seems like I’m not the only one enamored... there are a variety of books on not only what to serve on it, but even books on how to actually cook on the salt block.  While I’ve never attempted cooking on my salt block, I love to use it as a tray for hors d’oeuvres.  It’s a conversation piece and a fun way to start the party.

Now, a little about the salt tray.  It’s an actual block of salt from the Himalayan mountains.   Supposedly these pink-hued slabs of salt were formed between 550- 600 million years ago.  That in itself ought to jump start any get-together. 

There are several reasons I enjoy using the salt block.  The first is its intriguing story, and the second is its pink-marbled beauty.  I also enjoy the delicate flavor it imparts to the food on which it is served.  The only downside is that the block is very heavy.  Its weight of twelve pounds is daunting.  (I have the 12” x 8” block that comes with an attractive black cradle which makes it easy for carrying.  It does, however, come in smaller sizes.)

Some of my favorite things to serve on the block are foods that require a little salt.  In the summer-time, I use it for cubed watermelon topped with a few fresh herbs from the garden and a small amount of feta.  I also like the dramatic color and taste profile of using it to showcase cantaloupe melon balls speared with a piece of a black Mediterranean olive.  Both of these warm weather appetizers are exquisite with the salt block to play up the sweet-salty combination.  My final fave is large shrimp that have been quickly sauteed.

Bon appetit.

Seeing RED on the 4th!

                                                        Summer calls for lighter bodied reds

The 4th of July always signals to me the switch to lighter bodied red wines:  out with the highly structured Cabernets, those big Mouvedres from Bandol, the intense Malbecs from Argentina, and those California Zinfandels with soaring alcohol levels.    The heat of summer calls for easier drinking reds without a lot of tannin or alcohol.  Here are my favorite four to honor the 4^th.

Pinot Noir:

One of the best summer reds is Pinot Noir.  A more feminine grape, Pinot has lower tannins than most other red grapes which means it’s easier drinking in the warmer temperatures of July and August.   Silky and soft, Pinot Noir can be a refreshing summer alternative to the more powerhouse big reds of winter.

Barbera:

Barbera is also a good choice for summer-time quaffing.  The grape has very little tannin and lots of fruit profile.  Mainly grown in the Piedmont district of Italy (home to the heavily structured Barolo and Barbaresco), Barbera works well with summer’s menu of simple grilled meats, poultry and fish.

Frapatto:

One of my fave red wines to drink during the heat of the summer is Frapatto.  Grown primarily in Sicily, this gem of a wine is perfect as an aperitif or with a lighter main course such as poultry or fish.  When I think of Frapatto I think of strawberries as this berry is very prominent in both the varietal’s taste and aroma.   Serve it and I guarantee people will rave.

Grenache:

This grape, which is native to Spain, is also grown in France’s Rhone Valley.   Both countries make lighter-style red (unless the wine is aged in oak).   This low tannin wine serves up an impressive lineup of summer-time flavors of red fruit such as raspberry and strawberry (versus black fruit of the more highly structured reds).

Here’s to the RED white and blue!

World’s Best Banh Mi Sandwich?

I order mine with "the works"

Anthony Bourdain said this sandwich shop was the best in Vietnam….I say it just might be the best in the world.   Google banh mi and in a nano second you’ll get >36 million hits.  Bahn mi has become an international culinary hit.  There are now banh mi cookbooks, YouTube videos on tapas of banh mi, recipes for banh mi burgers and even banh mi pizza.  So, listen up when I say I know where the best banh mi on the planet is.

                    My fave spot has become so famous that it sells 3,000-4,000 banh mi daily

Let’s start at the beginning.  Banh mi actually means bread.  The French brought their beloved baguettes to Vietnam in the late 19^th century.  The baguettes, made from expensive imported wheat, were affordable only to the French.  Once the French were kicked out of Vietnam, the Vietnamese began adding rice flour to the baguette, making it more reasonable in price.   The defeated French left behind warehouses filled with pâté, cheese, mayonnaise and expensive cold cuts which were all sold at rock-bottom prices in the local markets.  The Vietnamese, out of disdain for the French, began to eat these once forbidden products.  Out of spite and to flaunt their independence, the Vietnamese then began experimenting with local products as ingredients for the baguette.

                        There's a mind-boggling array of fillings...all prepared fresh daily

The actual banh mi, however, wasn’t birthed until the late 1950’s in Saigon.  Long before plastic and Styrofoam made everything portable, an ingenious couple who had fled north Vietnam to the southern capital, thought of making individual baguettes and filling them with a the Vietnamese version of pate, mayo and pickled vegetables.  They revolutionalized eating on the go in busy Saigon with their new sandwich as it could be carried away by customers in their hands.

  This place is so popular that the city's best bakery moved its location next door to the banh mi shop

Dove-tailing with the banh mi’s invention in Saigon during the mid 20th centry, the Americans also helped the success of banh mi.  During this period the US began sending wheat shipments which allowed the baguette industry to flourish.  By this time, the Vietnamese were also changing---they had become adept at making pâté from pork, adapting the Chinese version of BBQ to a local recipe, and were even making their own mayonnaise.

                                        Hoi An is also famous for its gorgeous silk lanterns

So, where is the world’s best banh mi?  It’s located in the UNESCO (United Nations World Heritage Site) seaside town of Hoi An.  There are at least ten ingredients, all of them working in total harmony:  a thin layer of aioli, a splash of the au jus left over from the roasting of the meats, a spreadable house-made pâté, BBQ pork, sliced tomatoes, pickled carrots and daikon, thinly sliced cucumbers, fresh cilantro, and finally a dab of fish sauce mixed with chili for the perfect kick.

      Wine-Knows will visit Hoi An's marketplace where all the bahn mi ingredients are purchased

If you’re coming with Wine-Knows in February 2020 to Vietnam you’ll be eating the Holy Grail of banh mi at this little dive of gastronomy.  There is one or possibly two spots remaining on this trip. http://www.wineknowstravel.com/itinerary-vietnam/.  If you’re not coming, the name of the place is Banh Mi Phuong….expect a line out the door, and be sure to order “the works.”

The Perfect Gin & Tonic Pairing

                                 Different Fever Tree tonics pair with different types of gins

Wine-Knows is wrapping up its inaugural wine and foodie’s tour of England.  In addition to visiting a gin factory, we have certainly sampled our share of gin and tonics on the trip.  While I’ve long known that the quality of both gin and the quality of the tonic were important, I’ve learned a lot about what gin works best with what type of tonic.  Let me explain.

First, let me say that I’m a big fan of Fever Tree Tonic thanks to my friend Liz who introduced me to it a few years back.  What I didn’t know until some months ago is that Fever Tree is made in London.  I learned on this trip that Fever Tree actually makes six types of tonic.   By doing a quick online search on the laptop I brought with me, I found them all available in the US.

1. Premium Indian Tonic
2. Elder flower Tonic
3. Mediterranean Tonic
4. Aromatic Tonic
5. Lemon Tonic (sometimes called Citrus Tonic)
6. Naturally Light (fewer calories)

So here’s the low-down.  Take a look at the picture above.  According to Fever Tree, here are the best pairings of Fever Tree with different gins (all of my favorite gins). 

•  Hendricks pairs best with Elder Flower Tonic (both of them have floral notes)
•  Beefeaters works best with Aromatic Tonic (both with robust juniper nuances)
•  Bombay Sapphire marries with Mediterranean Tonic  (the perfect union of the herbaceous Sapphire with this rosemary infused tonic)

Check out Fever Tree’s website for which of their products pair best with your fave gin:  

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England for Wine & Food Lovers

                                      Gin is now being replaced with world-class sparkling wine

Global warming has changed England’s presence in the wine world.  The Brit's wine country is located at the same latitude as France’s Champagne district and warmer global weather conditions now make the island’s weather comparable to Champagne.  England's sparkling wine countryside also has the same limestone soil as Champagne.  All of this means that England is now making sparkling wines that have beat-out many high-end Champagnes in blind tastings.

Few English sparklers are imported into the US.   England’s fizzes (as they are called), are the same price point as the real-deal Champagne, thus marketing the British fizz is problematic as England’s wine industry is in its infancy and few people in the US know of its quality.  Those coming with us on the inaugural English countryside tour in June will be among the first wine groups to make the trek across the Atlantic.

         Stroud Farmers' market is voted the best in England

England formerly has not been thought of a foodie’s mecca either.  That also is changing.  Farmer’s markets now abound and there’s a huge movement away from the former bland, frozen and uninteresting cuisine to a more global cuisine based on fresh ingredients and enticing flavors.   Fusion is the name of the game with old time recipes being modernized to incorporate tastes of France, Italy and Asia.

                          Harrod's Food Hall is a definite do not miss for any gourmand

India has long been an influence in England’s restaurant scene.  In fact, there are more Indian restaurants in London than in Mumbai and Dehli.  This means that gourmet food emporiums such as London's Fortnum Mason or Harrod’s have gigantic sections of Indian spices.  I always bring home tins filled with curry ingredients. Regardless of whether you like Indian food or not, these two temples of gastronomy’s fabulous Food Halls should not be missed by any food-lover.

Another item I can’t resist at Harrod’s or Fortnum Mason is their over-the-moon selection of Stilton cheese.  Blue Stilton is perhaps England’s greatest gift to the culinary world.  Both stores carry it vacuum packed for the flight home, but it also is available in pretty ceramic crocks that are a lovely souvenir.

   Fortnum Mason's Food Hall is mesmerizing

Both Fortnum Mason and Harrod’s also have mind-blowing tea departments.  Tea time in Britain is nearly a national institution.  There are hundreds of flavors available and their marvelous packaging would make even the Queen smile.

                                                     Maldon is one of my favorites

Another easy souvenir to bring home from England (or order on the Internet) is Britain's Maldon Sea Salt flakes.  It comes in several “flavors” but I usually gravitate to the smoky version.  Think France’s Fleur de Sel with an interesting smoke nuance.  As its lightweight, it makes a perfect item to bring home as a gift for another food-lover.

England is no longer a gourmet dessert and its southern coast's sparkling wine industry is growing exponentially.   British chef Gordon Ramsey has reached nearly rock-star status in the US.  English Michelin star restaurants abound.   To that I say, “Cheerio, mate!”