Sicilian Wines are Summer in a Glass

   Two seats are available on Wine-Knows' October trip to Sicily

Summer is getting into full swing and there may be no better way to celebrate than with a glass of Sicilian wine.  This is the last article of the month’s series on Sicily.  In the earlier posts you’ve learned that Sicily has nearly 90 native grapes….wines that you’ll not see anywhere else in the world.  This article, however, features grapes that were not birthed on the island but all have a Mediterranean heritage. 

                                                             The island's charms are many

Catarratto

The Queen of Sicilian grapes, Catarratto is grown all over the island (it represents nearly one-third of all wine grapes planted).  It is the mother of the wonderful native Grillo grape which was discussed last week.  One sip of Catarratto and you’ll see their resemblance:  lemon zest, intense oranges & fragrant citrus blossoms.   But, that’s only part of Catarratto’s charms. 

Catarratto also entices with flavors of peaches and apples.  It’s a dry, light-bodied wine that offers moderate alcohol levels, thus it makes for a perfect interlude to a summer’s supper.  Since it doesn’t have a lot of tannin, it works well as an aperitif but it can certainly swing to a first course like a shrimp appetizer.  Look no further than Donnafugata’s Anthilia, or Graci’s Etna Bianco (a blend of Catarratto and Carricante). 

                                       A  place has been set for you with Sicilian ceramics

                     

Zibbibo

This white wine screams SUMMER.  Zibbibo, the father of the Grillo grape, is a member of the aromatic grape family of Muscat.   Zibbibo on Sicily can be made dry or sweet, but this article will focus only on the dry version.    With its fragrant profile of honey, peaches, white flowers, and even lychees might make one think that a dry Zibbibo had some sugar, but the aromas fool your senses.

A glass of dry Zibbibo is a perfect aperitif.   It’s not a serious wine, but it’s a wine that many adore just by itself….or perhaps with a little something like Sicily’s wonderful almonds while watching the sunset.   Donnafugata’s Lighea is a great example of a terrific Zibbibo aperitivo, as is Rallo’s Quasar.

                                              A Sicilian antipasti buffet awaits

Insolia

Insolia is a white grape variety grown in both Tuscany and Sicily.   Until recently, Insolia was used primarily on Sicily in making Marsala.  It is known for its nutty flavors and citrus profile.   Modern Sicilian winemakers, however, are rethinking Insolia.   The grape is now being blended with others such as Chardonnay and the results are stunning. Cusumano’s Angimbe is my favorite of the new renditions, and for <$20, it’s a real warm weather charmer.

Have a magnifico summer!

http://www.wineknowstravel.com/sicily-itinerary/

7 Don’t Miss Sicilian Wines

                             The island's volcanic soils are responsible for lavish complexity  

                                

Sicily is a treasure trove on so many levels.  Not only does it offer some of the best preserved Greek temples in the world, ancient Roman mosaics, stupendous natural beauty, and an intriguing cuisine, but Sicily also produces world-class wines.   The island’s volcanic soil creates wines of great depth and complexity.  Here are seven of my favorite wineries.

                           Pisciotto's up-market boutique hotel is out of a Hollywood movie-set

Feudi di Pisciotto

An ancient winery from the 1700’s, this farm estate (“feudo”) is a perfect example of modern meets traditional.  Now a destination location right out of the set of a James Bond movie, you can imbibe, dine, and then overnight in its historic rooms.   But, the winery’s intense and concentrated wines are the real star of this show. 

Fave:  Their Cerasuolo (a blend of Nero d'Avola and Frappato) is Bond-worthy.

                       The Princes of Butera estate will host Wine-Knows for a private lunch

Feudo Principi di Butera    

This historical hilltop castle belonged to Sicily’s first Prince.  Today, the 1,000 acre estate produces award-winning wines of elegance from both indigenous as well as international varietals. 

Fave:  Their Syrah is a prince!

                          Wine-Knows will enjoy a private dinner at the estate of the fleeing queen

Donnafugata

One of Italy’s most iconic wines, Donnafugata is easily recognized by its famous label, a woman’s head with a shock of windblown hair.  The woman is the Queen of Naples & Sardinia who in 1805 fled from Napoleon’s invading troops and took refuge in Sicily.  Donnafugata literally means the “woman in flight.”   

Fave:  Mille e Una Notte, which translates to a million and one nights.   I'll bet a million to one that you'll love it.

                            Arianna Occhipenti is one of the island's foremost super-stars

Occhipenti

This is another female-centric brand but rather than a fleeing Queen, this winery has a female owner and winemaker (not that long ago this was an oxymoron in Sicily).   Highly respected by international wine lovers and wine critics, Occhipenti produces some gorgeous wines.

Fave:  Frappato, a light-in-tannin summer red, is a heavy hitter for complexity.

                            Passopisciaro pulled out the red carpet for Wine-Knows' last tasting

Passopisciaro

With grapes literally grown on the slopes of Mt Etna, these wines offer exceptional character and finesse due to their unique volcanic terroir.  Think earth-shaking fruit meets seismic minerality.    

Fave:  Contrada Sciaranova is a seductive red with a long finish.

                               Planeta is one of the most respected wine families in Italy

Planeta

The Planeta family is the mover-and-shaker wine family of Sicily.  Owning >1,000 acres of vines spread across the island’s most prestigious wine districts, Planeta is synonymous with quality, innovation, and business acumen.  

Fave:  Etna Bianco, a white from grapes grown on the volcano Mt Etna, just might cause the earth to move.

         The Cusumano brothers, who founded their winery in 2001, are the new kids on the block 

Cusumano

The Cusumano family has been making wine for generations, however, as a winery they are a bambino (opened in 2003).   Now one of Sicily's iconic producers, Cusumano owns 1,000 acres of vineyards spread across the island, and exports to 60 countries.    

Fave:  Etna Bianco Alta Mora, a white grown on the slopes of Mt Etna---it will knock your socks off.

If you’re joining Wine-Knows in Sicily this autumn you’ll visit all of these wineries.  Moreover, in addition to dining in the castle of Feudo di Principi Butera, you’ll be staying on the charismatic Feudi Pisciotto estate, Planeta’s wine property overlooking the sea, as well as the Planeta family’s former palace in the heart of downtown Palermo.

Treasure Island---Sicily

                                      Magnificent wines & fabulous gastronomy await visitors

Italy’s Mediterranean destination-island is a treasure trove of perfect seafood, intensely flavored vegetables, superb olive oil, and world-class wines. Strongly influenced by its many conquerors---from the Greeks, to the Romans, the Arabs, the French and the Spanish---the island’s culture represents a unique crossroads of the Mediterranean.  Stunning island geography, along with a breathtaking tapestry of art and architecture (including two of the best-preserved Greek temples in the world), completes this Italian jewel.

Grapes are grown on the slopes of Mt Etna

One of the biggest show-stoppers of Sicily is its wines.  Prepare yourself for new varietals that only are  grown in Sicily.   Indigenous grapes such as Nero d’Avola, Frappato, Grillo, Catarrato, Carricante and Insolia are not grown elsewhere.  Adding to the attraction is that many of these grapes are grown in mineral-rich volcanic soil which imparts interesting complexities.   There’s no problem ripening fruit in Sicily due to its idyllic year around climate.  All of this translates into lush, fruit-forward wines with a hint of minerality.  Simply put, Sicily’s wines are stunning and full of unique personality.

                                           Even the eggplant are special varietals

Sicily’s cuisine is different from any other Italian region.  In fact, the mainland Italians consider Sicily a continent.   The island’s culinary prowess comes from its vivid and diverse background of past conquerors who left their indelible mark on Sicily’s gastronomic scene.  Expect hints of exotic spices like saffron and cinnamon paired with local ingredients—lemons, blood oranges, almonds, fresh capers, and wild mountain oregano.  There’s an abundance of fish and seafood, with swordfish being one of the specialties.

    Vegetables are like you've never had them before 

Wine Knows will be visiting Sicily during their grape harvest in September 2020.  The trip is sold out.  If you will not be joining us but wish to explore the island's great quality/price ratio wines, here are my suggestions for the best producers, listed in alphabetical order:

• Cusumano
• Donnafugata
• Occhipinti
• Passopisciaro
• Planeta
• Tenuta Fessina
• Tenuta delle Terre Nere

 Ciao!

Best of Sicily

For those of you who couldn’t make the October trip to Sicilia, here are my thoughts on the “best of the best,” listed in alpha order:

Baglio di Pianetto

Wine-Knows ends our Sicilian tours at the special villa that is owned by Count Marzotto, one of Italy’s largest patron of the arts, as well as one of the country’s most powerful wine-moguls.  The Count’s chief winemaker (who presides over all of Marzotto’s wine empire), flew down from northern Italy to welcome our group.  The most compelling wine was the 2007 Salici, a Merlot that had been aged in a combination of new French oak and stainless.   While the vintage is difficult to find, it’s worth seeking out.    $30

                                                            Baglio di Pianetto's Villa

Donnafugata

One of my perennial favorites in which to bring our Wine-Knows groups, Donnafugata’s private country is spectacular.  Our private dinner here began with an aperitivo in the gorgeous garden just as the sun was setting.  This wine which was served to “wet our appetite,” is one of my most beloved in Sicily and is made from a relative of the Muscat grape.  Sicilians call the varietal Zibbibo, and Donnafugata has named their version Lighea.  This Zibbibo is bone dry, offering a rich bouquet of peaches and floral nuances such as roses and orange blossoms.  Love, love, love it.    $20

                                      The setting for Donnafugata's stunning Lighea

Feudi Del Pisciotto

This winery was dazzling.  Once a former village, the entire small hill-top hamlet has been purchased by the winery.  Former homes have been converted into hotel rooms, other homes are slated for a restaurant and holiday apartments.  The church is now a stunning setting for wine-related events such as the private tasting held for Wine-Knows.  Each wine is named after the Italian fashion designer who created its work-of-art label (e.g. Versace, Brioni, Valentino).  Carolina Marengo’s seductive label had me at hello, but it was what inside that stole my heart.  This killer wine, made from the 2012 vintage of Grillo, was a luscious taste of the nearby sea, mixed with complex layers of apricots and pineapple.  I brought this bottle home to my husband.  Need I say more?   $35

                                                A church turned into a winery reception area.

Gulfi

Asking to choose a favorite at this very special property (a Napa-esque estate built with a mega Euro fortune) is like asking a parent to name their favorite child.  What I will say, however, is that the *best buy* at Gulfi is probably their well-crafted Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2012, Sicily’s only DOCG.  Made from a combination of Nero d’Avola and Frappato ( a lighter, strawberry nuanced wine), Gulfi’s rendition is sublime for its price tag.  Should you ever visit Sicily, consider staying on this property and definitely dine in their restaurant---one of the best meals of  Wine-Knows’ recent tour.   $25

                                 A winery, a destination restaurant & a B&B

Passopisciaro 

Mount Etna has the highest vineyards in Europe.  This Etna winery produces single vineyard wine which they call “contrada.”   A contrada is actually a specific lava path where super-heated magma once flowed down the sides of the still active volcano.  These contradas are comprised of decomposed, mineral rich volcanic soil.   Their Contrada R 2012 was a knock-out.  Made from Nerello Mascalese (which are only grown on Etna), these grapes came from 100 year old vines.  The result was a complex eruption in my mouth of layers of red-fruit mixed with beautiful mineral nuances.   $50

                               Etna exerts a tremendous effect over the entire island's terroir

Riofavara

Located in Sicily far southeastern corner, the limestone soils of this winery offer one of the island’s premier spots for growing the Nero d’Avola varietal.  Only grown in Sicily, this grape is becoming more and more popular for oenophiles.  An aged “Nero,” can offer complex aromas of leather, cocoa, licorice and cinnamon, with mineral overlays of mint.  Riofavara’s Schiavé 2010 was all of this and more.  Kermit Lynch in Berkeley, Ca. is the importer.   $30

                               The owner & winemaker of Riofavara conducted a private tasting

Settesoli (MandraRossa Brand)

This was my first time to visit Sicily’s largest producer, but it won’t be my last.  Our private tasting here was led by one of the winemakers who presented an impressive lineup of the winery’s top tier, Mandrarossa.   I couldn’t decide between the heavenly white Santa Nella 2012 (crafted most from the local Fiano grape with a sprinkling of Chenin Blanc) and the Bonera 2013, a fabulous blend of half Cabernet Franc and half Nero d’Avola.  Again, all 8 wines we tasted during the formal 2 hour seminar were well made.   

                                        The taste of the sea was evident in MandraRossa wines

Sicily’s Most Iconic Woman of Wine

If you go to your wine store’s Italian wine section chances are you’ll see this woman as she appears on all of the labels of one of Sicily’s most famous wineries.  In fact, the winery is named after her.  Who is this person?  She was the Queen of Naples & Sardinia who in 1805 fled Naples from Napoleon’s invading troops and took refuge in Sicily.  Donnafugata literally means the “woman in flight.” This event inspired the Donnafugata logo, the effigy of a woman’s head with windblown hair.

The fugitive Queen well knew about political unrest and being captured by the enemy.  Her younger sister, Marie Antoinette, had been beheaded.  After the beheading, the Queen led Naples into war with France, joining forces with Great Britain and Austria.  If captured by Napoleon’s army, she would have been in grave danger of the guiollotine. 

The actual estate where the Queen sought asylum in Sicily is now the site of the Donnafugata winery and vineyards.   In the 1980’s this >700 acre property began producing wines.  Today, it is an internationally prestigious company producing 2.5 million bottles annually.  Its high quality wines have received enumerable awards around the globe, as well as top scores from the Wine Spectator and a host of critics such as Robert Parker.

If you’re coming on the 2014 tour to Sicily, you’ll have the opportunity to visit the Donnafugata estate for a private dinner.  If not, the winery has an excellent penetration in the US, so buy a bottle and have a toast to the “woman in flight.”