Provence Beyond Rosé: The Underrated Reds

                 The village of Chateauneuf du Pape is a full immersion experience in wine

When many people think of Provence, they picture colorful outdoor markets and endless fields of lavender. I've seen these vistas during my many visits, but when I think of Provence, I think of its wines—its true unsung heroes. While I adore Provence’s rosés, I’m utterly enamored with its spicy, full‑flavored reds and its elegant, tropical whites. These wines are, hands down, some of the most underrated in France.

Most serious wine lovers know Châteauneuf‑du‑Pape, but they may not be aware of the equally refined wines of Bandol or the remarkable quality‑to‑price ratios found in Vacqueyras and Gigondas. Let’s explore Provence’s “non‑pink” wines, beginning with terroir and then moving on to its grapes.

🌿 Terroir

            The Rhone, along with the Mediterranean, has a tremendous influence on Provence's wine

Provence sits in the South of France, where the Rhône River cuts through the region on its way to the Mediterranean. Vineyards closest to it benefit from mineral‑rich soils and rocks washed down from the Alps. Summers are hot—thanks to beaucoup sunlight—so ripening grapes is never an issue. And the mighty mistral winds sweep through the region, keeping pests at bay and the air remarkably clear.

🍇 Grapes

                                   GSM is one of the hallmark blends in all of France

Red grapes dominate Provence, thriving in the region’s heat. Syrah and Grenache are the most widely planted, joined by Mourvèdre—another Rhône varietal. These three grapes are often blended together and affectionately referred to as GSM, an acronym of their initials.

🍷 Châteauneuf‑du‑Pape: Provence’s Superstar Reds

                At Chateau Beaucastel, Wine-Knows are taken to the vines to see rock-filled vineyards

Red wine accounts for roughly 35% of Provence’s production. The most prized are the celebrated reds come from the village of Châteauneuf‑du‑Pape. Located near the Rhône River, the area is famous for vineyards strewn with large stones—galets roulés—left behind by ancient flooding. These stones provide superb drainage and reflect heat back onto the vines during Provence’s cold winters.

My favorite producers are Château Beaucastel and Château La Nerthe. Their wines—both reds and whites—are gorgeous, voluptuous, and complex…so wonderful they make you forget all about their steep prices.

🌊 Bandol: The Mediterranean Jewel

                                             The Bandol appellation is on the Mediterranean

Further south lies the tony little wine area of Bandol. Just a few miles from the Mediterranean, Bandol’s wines are an exception to Provence’s blending tradition. They are primarily made from Mourvèdre, and many are 100% varietal. Seek out Château Pibarnon and Domaine Tempier for some truly killer wines.

💎 Gigondas & Vacqueyras: Quality Meets Value

                                     The tiny village of Gigondas is a Provence charmer

For exceptional quality at a fair price, look to the villages of Gigondas and Vacqueyras. Here are a few of the many standout reds: Famille Perrin, Gigondas, L’Argnée Vieilles Vignes and Domaine Le Sang des Cailloux, Vacqueyras, Cuvée de Lopy.

Next time you're buying wine, look beyond Rose and turn to the unsung heroes of the area, the Reds.

Harvest Vocabulary for Wine Lovers

                                                                                                                                            September in the Northern Hemisphere is a pivotal month for winemakers. These terms will help in understanding the wine-making process. 

• Alcoholic fermentation — the conversion of grape sugar into alcohol.

• Bâtonnage — stirring the wine during fermentation to keep it in contact with the lees (the solids).

• Brettanomyces — a spoilage yeast that produces off‑aromas in wine.

• Brix — a measurement of sugar content in grapes.

• Carbonic maceration — fermenting whole, uncrushed grape clusters.

• Fining — a clarification process; many winemakers use egg whites.

• Free‑run juice — juice released naturally by the weight of the grapes, without pressing.

• Malolactic fermentation — often called “ML”; converts sharp malic acid into softer lactic acid.

• Must — unfermented grape juice.

• Lees — sediment from fermentation, including spent yeast, seeds, and other solids.

• Racking — transferring wine from one vessel to another to separate it from sediment.

• Green harvest:  removing unripe grapes in early summer so the remaining grapes can achieve a greater quality. 

50 Shades of Rosé: Provence’s Signature Wine

                                      The majority of Provence's red grapes are used to make Rosé wines

Provence and Rosé are inseparable at this time of year.  After all, what is summer without a glass of Rosé? The season seems to glow a little brighter when that pale pink wine is in hand—crisp, refreshing, and unmistakably tied to the sun‑drenched landscapes of southern France.  For centuries, Rosé has been a staple of southern France, but today Provence stands as the world’s leading region for dry Rosé, with nearly half of its wine production devoted to this style.

                                                   Figs, olives, goat cheese & Rosés are ubiquitous to Provence
               

There are three methods used to produce a Rosé wine. The first is the simplest: blending a finished white wine with a finished red wine. While this technique is permitted in some French regions, Provence does not use it. Instead, Provence relies exclusively on two traditional methods that define the region’s distinctive Rosé style.

    Cassis is a charming small fishing village in Provence---ideal for a pre or post Julia Child trip stop

Vinifying a Rosé begins always with red wine grapes. The clear juice of the red grapes is left in brief contact with the darkly pigmented skins, which impart color ranging from the palest blush to deeper salmon or coral tones. Once the juice reaches the desired shade, it is separated from the skins to prevent further extraction.

  Red grapes are put in a vat from where excess juice is removed & put into a smaller vat to make Rosé 

This older Provençal method is called saignée, a French term meaning “to bleed.” In this technique, a portion of juice is siphoned off during the early stages of red wine fermentation. The “bled” juice becomes Rosé, while the remaining red wine—now more concentrated—continues fermenting on its own to produce a red wine with greater depth. Although some modern Rosé purists view saignée as a by‑product of red winemaking rather than a Rosé crafted with intention, the method remains widely used around the world and can produce superb wines. It is rarely, however, used in modern production of Provence's Rosés.

"I love cooking with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food."

Today, the hallmark of making Provencal Rosés, is a completely different method called direct pressing. Here, red grapes are harvested specifically for Rosé and pressed immediately, allowing only minimal skin contact. This produces the pale, delicate hues associated with Provençal Rosé. Because the grapes are grown and picked with Rosé in mind, winemakers can optimize every step—from harvest timing to fermentation—to achieve freshness, finesse, and balance. This intentional approach has made direct‑press Rosé the dominant style in Provence and increasingly influential worldwide.

         Wine-Knows will conduct a comparative Rosé tasting at Julia Child's villa September 2027

Whether crafted through the popular direct pressing or older style saignée, each bottle of Provencal Rosé reflects the landscape that shaped it. It’s a wine that invites us to slow down, savor the moment, and remember how simple pleasures can feel extraordinary.

Vive La Provence!

Julia Child & the Provence That Changed America

       Wine-Knows will be returning to Julia's Provence villa in September 2027 for the 6th time

Provence, the sun‑washed southern edge of France, is a paradise for the food lover. Bordering Italy and the Mediterranean, the region offers a gastronomic symphony—exceptional olive oil, Châteauneuf‑du‑Pape and Bandol wines, fifty- shades-of-rosé, truffles, goat cheeses, and vibrant outdoor markets. This abundance is what drew Julia Child to Provence in the late 1950s.

At that time, American cuisine revolved around convenience. With more women entering the workforce, kitchens leaned heavily on canned sloppy Joes, frozen fish sticks, TV dinners, and even instant orange juice. It was a culinary low point—until Julia changed everything.

Her first volume of Mastering the Art of French Cooking appeared in 1961, but it was her 1963 television debut on The French Chef that transformed American home cooking. With her warm, unpretentious style, she demystified French cuisine, championed fresh ingredients, and made cooking feel joyful and accessible. By the 1970s, she had become a cultural icon whose influence reached far beyond the kitchen.

The villa in Provence where Julia wrote both volumes of her groundbreaking cookbook still stands. Wine‑Knows has leased it for a week in September 2027, offering travelers the rare chance to experience Provence through Julia’s eyes—dining at her favorite restaurants, visiting her preferred olive oil producer, shopping at local boulangeries, fromageries, and pâtisseries, and exploring the region’s enchanting hilltop towns and seaside villages.

In the end, that is Julia and Provence’s greatest gifts: they remind us that cooking is not merely about recipes, but about living well—about slowing down, tasting deeply, and letting ingredients speak for themselves. Julia understood this instinctively. Her time in Provence didn’t just shape her; it reshaped an entire nation’s relationship with food. To stand where she stood, to taste what she tasted, is to understand how a sunlit corner of France helped spark a revolution in American kitchens—one delicious meal at a time.

Vive La Provence!  Vive Julia!

Lake Garda: Roman Ruins, Castles & Wines

Lake Garda has a unique microclimate that allows palm trees, lemons, olives & grapes to flourish 

Italy’s largest lake, Lake Garda, has been an important crossroads for thousands of years.  Because of its strategic location on north-south-east-west routes connecting Rome, Northern Europe, France & the House of Savoy, and the Ottoman and Venetian Republics, its architecture and traditions feel distinctly different from other Italian lake regions.  History has been layered onto its vast shoreline.

           Verona's Roman coliseum, which seats 15,000, is now used for outdoor operas & concerts

The Romans, who settled in Lake Garda 100 B.C., had an immense influence on the area for >500 years.  Recognizing Garda’s strategically important position, they founded new towns such as Verona which became a major military and economic center.   Affluent Roman aristocrats build lavish villas on Garda’s shores.  Roman baths, temples, theaters and their aqueduct knowledge transformed the region.  Olive trees and wine grapes were cultivated and flourished in Garda’s Mediterranean climate.  Roman ships sailed the lake for commerce and military transport.

                     Bardolino is the name of a lakeside village, a wine district, and a wine

Today the Roman influence on the Lake Garda region is still palpable:

 Architecture & Layout:  Many towns still retain their Roman era street patterns (grid layouts with streets intersecting at 90 degree angles).  Romans built on foundations, used paved roads and raised sidewalks; all of these are instrumental today throughout the region.

Economy:   Lake Garda’s economy is driven by tourism.   Roman sites are among the most visited attractions.  Local tour operators offer sight-seeing specifically focused on Roman history, showing how deeply this era is still woven into the region’s cultural identity.

Culture:  Roman heritage blends with medieval, Renaissance & Hapsburg layers (northern European) making it not only a unique combination from other places in northern Italy, but a defining thread in Lake Garda’s cultural story.

                                Scaglier Castle was built in the 13th century for protection

During medieval times a multitude of castles were built at strategic locations on Lake Garda.  This autumn Wine-Knows will be visiting the most famous one built with towers, ramparts and a moat:  Scaliger Castle was built in the thirteenth century on the southern tip to control the lake and to protect nearby Verona. 

            Wine-Knows has a private dinner scheduled at the historic wine estate of Dane Alighieri

Lake Garda is surrounded by numerous wine districts and Wine-Knows will be visiting three of them during their October tour.  Valpolicella, known for its complex red wines produced from indigenous grapes, will be showcased during visits to three of the area’s most well-regarded producers, including one known as the “Godfather of Amarone.”  Wine-Knows will also be visiting the lakeside town of Bardolino famous for its lighter style red “Bardolino” wines.   Last, the group will visit an award-winning winery in the hills above Lake Garda which produces an impressive range of both white and reds.

This enchanting lakeside town will be Wine-Knows' stop for lunch

Lake Garda offers a deep cultural history in a way few places do.  Blend this with its stunning natural beauty, add a plethora of world-class wines, and a visit to Garda is certain to please even the most discerning of travelers.

What Makes Lake Como So Special?

                                            Lake Como is much more than the sum of its parts

My ashes are to be scattered in Lake Como, so I admit that I’ve long been hooked on this al-di-la (Italian for “beyond the beyond”) spot as a final resting place.  But, what makes this glorious lake “beyond” so many other places of magical beauty in Italy?  Let me count the ways. 

                          Snow covered Alps create a striking year around backdrop 

First, there’s something about the dramatic combination of Como’s 50-shades-of-deep-blue water and the majestic range of the surrounding Italian-Swiss Alps.  Pair this with lush greenery, dripping bougainvillea, and swaying palm trees dotting the lake’s shore.  Add in marvelous light that changes throughout the day, and Lake Como’s stunning natural beauty takes on a cinematic feel.  Last, factor in the plethora of brightly colored homes along with exquisite villas---Como's landscape leaves one breathless.   

                                   Jaw-dropping villas dot Lake Como's shoreline

Como is more than the sum of its glorious parts.   A calming peace mixed with an air of exclusivity can be felt.  Lake Como offers a quieter and more genteel atmosphere in comparison to other Italian hot spots such as the Amalfi Coast or Portofino.  (It’s no wonder that the lake has been a long-time retreat for writers and composers, and more recently, for modern celebrities seeking calm privacy.) Even hotels and restaurants focus on a kind of refined low-key luxury.  And, there are no high-rise buildings.  Think small, chic, elite.

Bellagio is a popular stop for ferries & hydrofoils

Then, there’s the “boat culture.”   A small two lane road follows the lake’s fingers but it is the lake where the important transport takes place.  Ferries and small boats, offering the mind-boggling views of the lake, link most of the sleepy lakeside villages.  Moreover, sleek, small private boats abound and lakeside villas have their own private docks. 

                                Lake Como used to be home to Italy's entire silk industry

Small, charming lakeside hamlets also enchant with narrow cobblestone streets and lakeside cafes.  Bellagio, one of the lake’s jewel-like villages filled with boutiques and art galleries, is packed with day trippers from Milan during the summer, but even in the height of the season it reverts back to a captivating spot by early evening.  Each town has its own character, but they all share a relaxed, elegant vibe.  

                                     Even on an overcast day, Lake Como enchants

One can’t forget the last compelling factor that makes Lake Como special.  The area’s mild climate is a compelling reason to come, regardless of the time of year.  It is much warmer than the surrounding areas due to the microclimate created by the lake.  (The reason why palm trees and Mediterranean plants thrive here despite of the mountain setting).  

This once private villa will be the hotel for Wine-Knows in October

Wine-Knows with reserved spots on this autumn’s tour to northern Italy will be spending two nights on Lake Como in the quiet lakeside village where George Clooney has a villa.  In addition to a private dinner held on the shores of the lake, we’ll also be visiting Bellagio by boat.

Viva la dolce vita  of magical Lago di Como!

Valpolicella Is Much More Than a Wine

     Wine-Knows will have a private dinner at the historic wine estate of Dante Alighieri in Valpolicella    

Valpolicella stands out among Italian wines because it isn’t just one wine.  It’s an entire spectrum of styles based upon ancient techniques only found in the hills north of the city of Verona.  Located halfway between Milan and Venice, the Valpolicella region offers a unique winemaking history and offers one of Italy’s most compelling wine stories.

What defines Valpolicella’s character?

Valpolicella’s charm lies in how authentically “local” it is.  The grapes are all indigenous to the area and rarely seen outside the district.  Wines are created primarily with the Corvina grape, although Corvinone, Rondinella and Molinara are other locally-birthed varieties often used in the blend.  These rare grapes give the wine:

~ great acidity (think framework)

~ red fruit profile, especially cherries

~ soft tannins (light to medium bodied wines)

~ spicy, almond, & floral nuances develop often in their aging process

Winds from Lake Garda play a vital role in dehydrating grapes stored in open-air buildings

Four styles that make Valpolicella unique:

Few other wine regions in the world offer such a clear stylistic “ladder” of wines, a kind of simple to complex hierarchy.

1.  Vallpolicella is the first step on the ladder.  This “classico” style is fresh, bright, cherry driven, and very approachable even in its youth.

2.  Ripasso (which means “repass”) is next.  It’s richer and spicier because the wine is passed over the grape skins a second time to add extra depth.

3.  Amarone is a powerful, complex dry wine made from partially dried grapes (an ancient tradition called “appasimento” which concentrates flavors).  This method gives Amarone an intense depth of flavor such as dried fruit, chocolate and spice.   As it ages these flavors become even more pronounced. 

4.  Recioto, the last step on the area’s ladder, is a sweet dessert wine made from the dried indigenous grapes of the region.  The historical method of “appasimento” is used to concentrate sugars and aromas, predominantly dried cherries, figs, chocolate & spices.

What foods pair with Valpolicella’s four unique types of wines?

     ~  Starting with the “Classico” Valpolicella and working our way up the ladder, the Classico is a versatile red that works with pizza and pasta, but also pairs with foods that you would typically pair with white wine (e.g. fish).

     ~ Ripasso Valpolicella, exposed to grape skins a second time, easily works with heavier and richer dishes such as roasted meats (including lamb & venison), wild mushroom risotto and other heavier, complex dishes.

     ~ Highly-structured and full-bodied Amarone calls for bold food pairings.  It is perfect with grilled red meats but also works with rich recipes for wild game.  Amarone, however, also can accommodate spicy and sweet international dishes (e.g. smoked or glazed pork, and even duck with oranges).  Bold Amarone also pairs with aged cheeses (including strong blue cheese) making it a perfect accompaniment to the end of a meal.

`    ~ Like Amarone, Recioto, can also work at the end of a meal with strong aged cheeses, but it’s a superstar with desserts such as cherry-based sweets and chocolate.

     Wine-Knows has taken over the entire villa of revered Valpolicella producer, Allegrini for 3 nights

Those of you coming on this October’s trip to northern Italy will see first-hand this jewel-box wine region.   You’ll even view the traditional appasimento method for drying the grapes.  Life is too short for boring wine, and in Valpolicella, boring is never on the wine list.