Bordeaux’s Other Grape----Sauv Blanc!

                                           White wine in Bordeaux is an oxymoron for many

White wine from Bordeaux?   Some of you may be surprised that Sauvignon Blanc-based wines are produced in Bordeaux.  Those who aren’t, have either been on a Wine-Knows’ trip to Bordeaux, or are very savvy wine connoisseurs.   White Bordeaux wines account for only 7% of the area’s production and very little of it ever make it across the Atlantic.   Indeed, Sauvignon Blanc (Sauv Blanc) is Bordeaux’s secret grape.  

      The majority of Bordeaux's white wines come from Entre Deux Mers to the east of Bordeaux city

Sauv Blanc has its origin in France.  DNA researchers have actually traced its birthplace to the Bordeaux area.   Furthermore, DNA evidence has proven Sauv Blanc to be one of the parents of Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux’s Hail Mary red grape.  Centuries ago vineyards in France were all planted with a mixture of different red and white varietals in the same row.  Crossings between these different grapes in close proximity occurred in French vineyards and birthed new varietals.

   Chateau Roquefort expansive Sauv Blanc vineyards produce 4 different whites, including one that is                                                                        100% Sauv Blanc

Bordeaux’s Sauv Blanc in often mixed with Semillon, another white varietal, to create a blended wine known as Bordeaux Blanc (white).   Sauv Blanc is typically the majority of this blend.  Most wine aficionados know Sauv Blanc as an aromatic varietal. Depending on where it is grown, the varietal can offer different flavor profiles.   The cooler climate of Bordeaux, for example, serves up a palate of lemon & lime along with green apples.  With global warming, however, Sauv Blanc in Bordeaux is moving towards stone fruits and even tropical nuances.

Shrimp fishermen cast large nets from cranes throughout Bordeaux  

Last, Sauv Blanc-centric whites work well with Bordeaux’s local maritime food products.   Shellfish is a natural pairing with a white Bordeaux as the high acidity of a Bordeaux Blanc cuts through the fattiness of seafood (many of which are served with a cream sauce).  Lighter foods such as simple grilled fish also work with the area’s Sauv Blanc.

If you’re coming on the harvest trip to Bordeaux with Wine-Knows in September (sorry, but we’re sold out with a waiting list), you will have the opportunity to try Sauv Blanc at its birthplace.   In the meanwhile, why not pick up a bottle (either online or at a wine shop that has a great Bordeaux collection)?

 

5 Summer Whites You May Not Know

Summertime, summertime, sum-sum summertime as the song goes. When I think of hot July weather I think of think of refreshing white wine.  None of these five wines are well known so they all offer terrific value.  The five can be served as an aperitif but can also transition to dinner as they are all summer-food-friendly.   Two are from Spain, two are Italian, and there’s even an Austrian wine represented in the bunch.

Listed in no particular order….

Albarino

This grape is the poster-child  of summer whites.  It is grown in Spain’s northwestern province of Galicia (although some are attempting to grow this varietal in California). In some ways resembling a Sauvignon Blanc because of its citrus profile, Albarino has some Viognier-like characteristics due to its peach and apricot flavors.  But Albarino is more than fruit.  Adding to its complexity are often layers of minerals.   For me, this varietal screams summer. 

Some of my favorite producers of Albarino are Pazo Senorans, Eidos, Forjas de Salnes and  Pazo de Fefinans.  All of these “bodegas” are located close to the sea in Galicia.   As Albarino is an unknown varietal to most Americans, prices reflect the supply and demand price of about $20----a terrific bargain any time of year.

Vermentino

I can’t get enough of this varietal.  Whenever it’s on a summertime wine list, I immediately gravitate to it.  My first taste of the varietal was >25 years ago in Carmel at a restaurant which had a highly rated Wine Spectator wine list.  It was a hot summer day’s lunch and this wine was one of many being featured by the glass.  It was love at first sip for me.

Greatly under-rated, Vermentino has many similarities to an Albarino, Sauv Blanc or a Gruner Veltliner (below).   All three wines have a similar body, are highly aromatic, and have some common taste profiles of citrus and stone fruit.  Vermentino, however, often adds a characteristic almond profile and even floral notes.

Because Vermentino is so unknown, you can find these high quality wines for a great value. The best Vermentino comes from Italy’s island of Sardinia, as well as the Tuscan and Ligurian coasts.  The highest rated comes from these following Sardinian producers: Surrau, Capichera, Andrea Ledda, Delogu and Pala.  Bravo!

Gruner Veltliner

This grape was mentioned above and is one that has some commonalities with Vermentino in flavor.  Gruner, like Vermentio, offers citrus but it tends to lean more toward limes in grapes that are less ripe.   Riper grapes yield intense lemon flavors, whereas really ripe fruit catapults the Gruner’s flavors to peach and apricot.   As Gruner is the white flagship grape of Austria, climate can make a huge difference in the flavors of this varietal.

Like Vermentino and Albarino, Gruner is a great value.  When I’m dining in a Michelin star restaurant in summer and I don’t want to drop a couple of hundred dollars on a white wine,  I always turn to the Gruner (or Austrian) section of the wine list.  Sommeliers love this varietal, so there are always some carefully chosen gems.  Because of its bracing acidity, Gruner pairs beautifully with many foods. 

Fave producers?  Check out Ott, Hirtzberger or Castle Gobelsberg.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia

All the wines above have been grape varietals, whereas these are wines from a wine region located between Venice and the Austrian border.  I call this district Italian White Heaven.    Some white grapes here are unknown outside of the district.  For example, ever heard of “Ribolla Gialla?”  This ethereal grape used to be used for blending with other local varieties until savvy winemakers thought of treating it like a Chardonnay by using malo-lactic fermentation to soften its acidity.  Ribolla Gialla makes a killer, complex white wine.  Producers worth seeking out are Primosic and Biancosesto.

The Friuli-Venezia Giulia’s Pinot Grigio is like none of the other insipid renditions in Italy.  Pinot Grigio here is magic.  Think full-bodied, complex wines with summer stone fruit flavors.  Look for Torre Rosazza’s version.   Paradiso.   

Nounat

This list began with three relatively unknown white grape varieties, then moved to a wine region.  The last wine of the five summer whites is a blended wine from the island of Mallorca, Spain.  Nounat is simply the island’s best white. Made by the Binigrau winery, this complex wine is made from the island’s indigenous Prensal Blanc, with Chardonnay added for great structure.   Be prepared to be seduced by the old Mallorcan’s aromatics and flavors of pineapple, bananas, pears and almonds.  When mixed with ripe Chardonnay grapes it becomes exotic fruit nirvana filled with deep layering.

Nounat is available at east coast wine shops and online.  Order a case.  It will be the best $25 bucks a bottle you’ll spend for the summer.

These may be wines you don't know, but you should get to know each one of them.  Happy summer sipping.  

The Perfect Summer Duo

One of my pet summer-time wine blends is Marsanne and Roussane.   Rarely vinified as a 100% varietal, these two white Rhone grapes create a perfect marriage of color, aroma, flavor and texture.   I believe that a Marsanne and Roussane blend is a spot-on example of Aristotle’s quote, “The whole is greater than the sum of its parts.”  That being said, let’s examine those parts.

The Roussane grape produces a powerful white wine.   Probably named for its russet-colored grape skin, Roussane creates a deep golden wine.  On the nose, this Rhone varietal offers floral notes, along with peaches and pears.  When allowed to fully ripen there can even be pineapple and mango.  Less ripe fruit offers more delicate herbal nuances. Usually quite rich in texture, Roussane can develop an almost exotic silky, or velvet-like body.  

                                Roussane's color pigments deepen the color of its wine

Roussane in some ways could actually be thought of as a red wine masquerading as a white.   By that I mean that Roussane has a good tannin structure.  These tannins also allow Roussane to age more than other whites without such a tannin structure.  Great Roussanes such as those from the Rhone’s Hermitage, are opulent, elegant, complex, and evocative wines.  

Marsanne, like Roussane, is native to the Rhone Valley.   The most planted white grape in the Northern Rhone, Marsanne also produces deeply colored wines that heighten in color intensity as they age.  Flavor profiles include a nuttiness (think almonds), along with white flowers and citrus or melon.  Like Roussane, Marsanne also has an impressive rich texture.  

                                  France's Rhone Valley is the birthplace of both grapes

While both of these varietals are the back bone of the Rhone Valley’s white wines, they are also grown along California’s coast, Washington state, British Columbia, and Australia.   Most of the time the two grapes are paired together to create the perfect cuvee.  Marrying the best qualities of the duo often produces a fabulous mélange for the summer….or winter!   Here are some of my favorite Roussane-Marsanne blends from the central coast of California:  Jaffus, Sine Qua Non and Stolpman.

Enjoy your summer!

Suave Soave

Spring has sprung and I can’t think of a better way to celebrate its arrival than with a glass of a well-made Soave (swah vay).   This bone dry white wine comes from the wine district just west of Venice near Romeo and Juliet’s city of Verona.  Made from two grapes that are not grown in the US, Soave offers a wonderful opportunity to ring in Spring by exercising your wine muscle in a new way.

Soave is the name of a medieval town, the name of the wine district, as well as the name of the wine.  Only white wine is made in Soave and the majority of it comes from the Gargenega grape.  Soave can be made from as much as 100% of Gargenega, but by law Gargenega must be at least 70% of the blend.  Gargenega grapes provide high acidity, therefore, offer a powerful structure to the wine. The other grape allowed is Trebbiano, a quite historical grape native to Italy.  One of Italy’s most popular white grapes today, this varietal was used by the Romans to vinify wine, and it was introduced to France by Italy when the Pope moved his headquarters from the Vatican to Avignon in the 14^th century.

The flavor profile of Soave is influenced by the terroir in which the grapes grown.  Located at the base of the Italian Alps, Soave has benefited from millenniums of the Alps erosion.  The volcanic soil washed down has a powerful effect on the taste profile of the wine.  Expect nuances of minerality such as flint and lead pencil interspersed with subtle flavors of citrus, almonds, and honey….even though the wine is completely dry.  Aside from the almond and honey notes, Soave can be similar to a Chardonnay.

Look no further than award-winning producer Ca Rugate for a well-crafted Soave.  This family has a heartfelt bond with the land and has been making wines for several generations.  If you’re one of the lucky folks coming with us on the sold-out Northern Italy Truffle tour this fall, you will have a professional level tasting at Ca Rugate.  If not, you may want to pick up one or more of the following of their stunning Soave for a spring fling:

• Ca Rugate Soave Monte Alto

• Ca Rugate Soave Studio

• Ca Rugate Soave Monte Fiorentino

• Ca Rugate Soave San Michele (a best buy)

Umbria’s White from Orvieto

                                  There are 2 reasons to visit Orvieto & this is one

                              

Next month Wine-Knows has rented a 10,000 square foot villa in Umbria. A few days before the tour begins, however, I’ll be in nearby Orvieto---Umbria’s most famous wine city.  Orvieto has been producing wine since the Middle Ages.  Although the area produces both reds and white, it’s well known for white.  The city is also known for its jaw-dropping cathedral.  I'm going to see it, but also to visit two killer wineries.

Orvieto white wine is made primarily from a blend of Grechetto and Trebbiano grapes. Although Grechetto’s origin are thought to be Greek, this varietal has been grown for so long in Umbria that it is often credited as native to the area.  Grechetto is primarily a blending grape.  Trebbiano is one of the most widely planted grapes in the world.  By itself, it does not produce a high quality wine---blended with other grapes, it contributes fresh fruity flavors with some acidity.  Also added to Orvieto’s whites are aromatic Malvasia and Verdello which, like Trebbiano, is added for acidity.

Orvieto’s white wines are some of Italy’s most well known wines.  Typically inexpensive, these wines are often mass produced and exported around the world.  Generally, these are not serious wines, but rather refreshing, crisp wines.  There are some exceptions.

Some winemakers are pushing the envelope and breaking away from the pack of mediocrity.  Their results have been phenomenal.  If you can find either of the following two producers, buy them as they are terrific examples of what Orvieto is capable of producing:  Decugnano dei Barbi or Palazzone.  I’ll be taking a case to the villa for the group's welcome dinner.

Clos de Mouches---a Knock-Out Burgundy

Drouhin's medieval cellars in Burgundy

                           

If you’re looking for a mind-blowing wine for a special holiday dinner, look no further.  If you’re a white wine lover, get ready to be transported to Mecca.  I’ll be writing in a separate article in this blog about the best wines of our recent Wine-Knows tour to France, but I couldn’t wait to share this one from our stop in Burgundy. 

If you’re a history buff, the appeal of Clos de Mouches makes it an even more compelling choice.  First let me share that I tasted this in the medieval underground cellar of Drouhin….but his isn’t just any cellar by a long shot.  There are 2.5 acres of illustrious caves tunneled underneath Burgundy’s capital city, Beaune, during the 13^th-18th centuries.  These are the very cellars in which the Drouhin family (as well as many other Burgundian winemakers) successfully hid their premier wines from the Nazi’s in WW II.  Drinking even bottled water here is a magical experience, let alone a Clos de Mouches blanc.

The story of how the blanc (white) Clos de Mouches came to be is also a little treasure of history.   The birth of the wine occurred in the 1920’s as France was struggling to recover from the first World War.  At this time, both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were planted in the Clos de Mouches vineyard and often mixed together in the blend, but 90% of the Clos de Mouches parcel was Pinot.  One year, the Chardonnay did not ripen, so the Pinot was picked and vinified alone.  Then, a very unusual hot spell descended on Burgundy and the white grapes ripened…but it was too late to add them to the Pinot.  As it was a very small volume, Drouhin decided to try something unique and made a small batch just of the Chardonnay---it was too small of an amount to sell on the marketplace, so Drouhin intended to keep it for his family’s personal consumption.  If it hadn’t been for the winemaker taking a bottle to a friend, I wouldn’t be writing this article, as this white wine would never have been made again.

His friend lived in Paris…and just happened to own the wildly popular Maxim’s Restaurant (3 Michelin stars).  The proprietor of Maxim’s took one taste of the Clos de Mouche blanc and told Drouhin he would buy every bottle available.  It was here in Maxim’s that the famous actor Maurice Chevalier fell in love with the wine and proclaimed it his favorite.

For all of you ABC’s out there (anything-but-chardonnay) hold on!  If anything will change your mind, this Premier Cru Clos de Mouche white is the one.  The 2010 vintage that I tasted in the magnificent cellars was complex and elegant, with notes of citrus intermingling with floral, almond, nutmeg and mineral.  This one had me at “hello.”   Thankfully, it’s widely available in the US and its price tag of $70-90 (depending on the vintage) makes it the perfect wine for a special occasion holiday event.

FYI…there is also a Clos de Mouches red by Drouhin made from Pinot.  While we’ve tasted it during the visit to Drouhin as well, it was the white version that made the earth of the cellars move for me…and I’m a red wine gal.

2 Great Summer Whites for a Song

Northern Portugal's dramatic vineyards 

I'm singing with great glee after learning about these 2 bargain Portuguese wines at a recent Society of Wine Educators meeting.  I took a group to Portugal last year…the tour sold out in record time.  There were some serious wine folk on the trip, many of whom had traveled with us to Bordeaux, Burgundy, Barolo etc.   It didn’t take long to convert them to Portuguese wine lovers and I can’t wait to share with them and others these latest finds…perfectly timed for summer.

Both white wines are from northern Portugal not far from the Spanish border.  Adega Ponte de Lima Adamado 2011 is a rock-star considering its price.  Westchesterwine.com has it for the incredible price of $6.79---even with $40 case shipping, that’s still an unbeatable $10 bottle.  Made from a combination of 3 local grapes (regrettably, none of which we have in the US),  its 10% alcohol level makes it the ideal choice for a hot summer’s evening aperitif.  Although I loved the floral and white peach nose, as well as the lemon and slight spritz on the palate,  it was its acidity that made it sing. 

The next find, Quinta de Carapeços Alvarinho 2011, is made from the popular grape known as Albarino across the border in Spain.   This Portuguese rendition packs in aromas of white peaches and flowers, along with layers of honeysuckle and citrus in the mouth.  A great finish put it at the top of hit parade.  At present this is not imported, however, I understand that it will soon be.  Cost is expected to be well under $20 per bottle. 

If you’ve not been to Portugal recently or not tried their wines in the last 10 years, you should understand that the quality of many Portuguese wines has grown leaps and bounds.  Once a Mateus and Lancer’s landscape, Portuguese wines (both white and red) have moved well into the 21^st century and represent some of the best quality/price ratios on the planet.

Bordeaux ’s Other Wine

Gravel soil of Graves district



“A glass of Bordeaux?”   Many people would assume a red wine was being offered, however, they could be totally in error as Bordeaux produces some stunning whites.  Unfortunately, white Bordeaux is little known outside of France which is regrettable as a white Bordeaux can compete with the world’s best crafted wines.  Case in point:  the white wine from Chateau Haut Brion is one of the most memorable wines to have ever passed through these lips---and that’s saying something as I’ve had Haut Brion’s red on several occasions.

 

The best white Bordeaux is produced in the southern part of the wine area in the district of Graves.  Its distinctive gravel soil, for which it is named, is credited with much of the character and quality of both its white and red wine.  Graves' two main white grape varieties, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, are often blended.   While wine lovers are familiar with Sauvignon, not so many Americans know Semillon.   I love this varietal especially for the creamy texture it contributes, however, I also enjoy the apricot, peach, and pineapple notes it adds.  Because of the unique gravel soil, there’s no where else in the world that these grapes can even come close to producing the likes of a white Graves.

 

If  Haut Brion’s white ($900) is not in your budget, an excellent alternative is Smith Haut Laffite.  While its "blanc" is still pricey at $90, this primarily Sauvignon Blanc wine is no step-sister…it’s one of the best constructed Bordeaux whites that I’ve tasted.  If you’re looking for more moderately priced bottles, try either Latour-Martillac or Le Thil Comte Clary, both under $50.  Regrettably, you will probably need to turn to the Internet to find them as few wine shops in the U.S. carry them.  Try  www.wine-searcher.com/