5 Summer Whites You May Not Know

Summertime, summertime, sum-sum summertime as the song goes. When I think of hot July weather I think of think of refreshing white wine.  None of these five wines are well known so they all offer terrific value.  The five can be served as an aperitif but can also transition to dinner as they are all summer-food-friendly.   Two are from Spain, two are Italian, and there’s even an Austrian wine represented in the bunch.

Listed in no particular order….

Albarino

This grape is the poster-child  of summer whites.  It is grown in Spain’s northwestern province of Galicia (although some are attempting to grow this varietal in California). In some ways resembling a Sauvignon Blanc because of its citrus profile, Albarino has some Viognier-like characteristics due to its peach and apricot flavors.  But Albarino is more than fruit.  Adding to its complexity are often layers of minerals.   For me, this varietal screams summer. 

Some of my favorite producers of Albarino are Pazo Senorans, Eidos, Forjas de Salnes and  Pazo de Fefinans.  All of these “bodegas” are located close to the sea in Galicia.   As Albarino is an unknown varietal to most Americans, prices reflect the supply and demand price of about $20----a terrific bargain any time of year.

Vermentino

I can’t get enough of this varietal.  Whenever it’s on a summertime wine list, I immediately gravitate to it.  My first taste of the varietal was >25 years ago in Carmel at a restaurant which had a highly rated Wine Spectator wine list.  It was a hot summer day’s lunch and this wine was one of many being featured by the glass.  It was love at first sip for me.

Greatly under-rated, Vermentino has many similarities to an Albarino, Sauv Blanc or a Gruner Veltliner (below).   All three wines have a similar body, are highly aromatic, and have some common taste profiles of citrus and stone fruit.  Vermentino, however, often adds a characteristic almond profile and even floral notes.

Because Vermentino is so unknown, you can find these high quality wines for a great value. The best Vermentino comes from Italy’s island of Sardinia, as well as the Tuscan and Ligurian coasts.  The highest rated comes from these following Sardinian producers: Surrau, Capichera, Andrea Ledda, Delogu and Pala.  Bravo!

Gruner Veltliner

This grape was mentioned above and is one that has some commonalities with Vermentino in flavor.  Gruner, like Vermentio, offers citrus but it tends to lean more toward limes in grapes that are less ripe.   Riper grapes yield intense lemon flavors, whereas really ripe fruit catapults the Gruner’s flavors to peach and apricot.   As Gruner is the white flagship grape of Austria, climate can make a huge difference in the flavors of this varietal.

Like Vermentino and Albarino, Gruner is a great value.  When I’m dining in a Michelin star restaurant in summer and I don’t want to drop a couple of hundred dollars on a white wine,  I always turn to the Gruner (or Austrian) section of the wine list.  Sommeliers love this varietal, so there are always some carefully chosen gems.  Because of its bracing acidity, Gruner pairs beautifully with many foods. 

Fave producers?  Check out Ott, Hirtzberger or Castle Gobelsberg.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia

All the wines above have been grape varietals, whereas these are wines from a wine region located between Venice and the Austrian border.  I call this district Italian White Heaven.    Some white grapes here are unknown outside of the district.  For example, ever heard of “Ribolla Gialla?”  This ethereal grape used to be used for blending with other local varieties until savvy winemakers thought of treating it like a Chardonnay by using malo-lactic fermentation to soften its acidity.  Ribolla Gialla makes a killer, complex white wine.  Producers worth seeking out are Primosic and Biancosesto.

The Friuli-Venezia Giulia’s Pinot Grigio is like none of the other insipid renditions in Italy.  Pinot Grigio here is magic.  Think full-bodied, complex wines with summer stone fruit flavors.  Look for Torre Rosazza’s version.   Paradiso.   

Nounat

This list began with three relatively unknown white grape varieties, then moved to a wine region.  The last wine of the five summer whites is a blended wine from the island of Mallorca, Spain.  Nounat is simply the island’s best white. Made by the Binigrau winery, this complex wine is made from the island’s indigenous Prensal Blanc, with Chardonnay added for great structure.   Be prepared to be seduced by the old Mallorcan’s aromatics and flavors of pineapple, bananas, pears and almonds.  When mixed with ripe Chardonnay grapes it becomes exotic fruit nirvana filled with deep layering.

Nounat is available at east coast wine shops and online.  Order a case.  It will be the best $25 bucks a bottle you’ll spend for the summer.

These may be wines you don't know, but you should get to know each one of them.  Happy summer sipping.  

10 Terrific Summer Wines for Under $20

No, there’s not been a typo.  All of these wines are not only well made but represent excellent QP/R at price tags of less than 20 bucks.   With only one exception (the very first wine), all of them made the Wine Spectator’s most recent list of the World’s Top 100 Wines.   None are Rosés as these wines were discussed last week.

80% are white wines with Sauvignon Blanc (SB) being the most common grape.  Gruner Veltliner garnered two spots on the list.  80% are wines from outside the US (Austria, France, Italy, New Zealand and Spain), and are bargain priced because Americans don’t know the varietals.   One of the two reds is perfect for summer quaffing as an aperitif.  The other red is the ideal match for a summer dinner of BBQ chicken or meat.  There's also one sparkling wine in the mix.

(Listed in random order):

~ Joel Gott SB (California):  a perennial personal fave for quality-price/ratio, this producer sources his grapes from northern California.

~ Quivira Alder Grove SB (California):  this succulent wine even received a 90 point score from Robert Parker.

~ Mt. Beautiful SB (New Zealand):   Great aromatics and a full-bodied flavor abound in this Kiwi wine.

~ Bernard Ott Am Berg Gruner Veltliner (Austria):  Wine-Knows always visits this producer for his lineup of stunning Gruners.

~ Meinhard Forstreiter Kremser Kogl Gruner Veltliner (Austria):  Mineral-driven, this Gruner is phenomenal for the price.

~ Godeila Mencia (Bierzo, Spain):   This mencia grape wine is complex & pairs beautifully with grilled meats.   

~ Planeta Cerasuolo (Sicily, Italy):   A blended red wine of two varietals (neither grown in America) this one can easily work as an aperitif or with a summer meal (especially BBQ fish or pork).

~ Dom Pierre Luneau-Papin “Clos de Allees” (Loire Valley, France):   made from old vines of Melon de Bourgogne, this rendition of an obscure varietal is so yummy that it was scored a 91 by Robert Parker.

~ Jean Perrier Cuvee Gastronomic (Savoie, France): gorgeous fruits juxtaposed with minerals with this unknown grape called Jacquere.

~ llopart Reserve Brut Rosé Cava (Catalonia, Spain):  the family has been producing wine since 1385.  This sparkler makes me want to shout “Olé!”

Make no mistake about it.  If these above wines were blind-tasted, one would never come close to guessing their super reasonable price.  If you can't find them locally, all are available for purchase on the internet...just make certain to order them soon so they're not transported during the summer's hottest temps.

Spring Food & Wine Pairings

                                   

Spring has sprung and I’m not about to let Corona Virus dampen my spirits!  I’ve been out of the country six weeks and am so looking forward to spring’s bounty.   As the season’s foods have changed, so should our wine choices.  Heavier bodied wines (like Zinfandel and Cabernet) can now be replaced with lighter tannin and less alcoholic reds (such as Pinot Noir, Grenache, or even Sicily’s Frapatto, a fruity red wine brimming with another Spring flavor---strawberries).   Winter’s full-on oaky Chardonnays can now begin their transition to more gentle oak influences, or even  unoaked mineral-forward versions.  Spring whites also scream citrusy Austrian Gruner Veltliner or Italian Vermentino.

Here’s my shopping list, menu, and wine pairings:

Fresh peas: to be made into a risotto and served with a Pinot Noir.

Baby artichokes:  grilled, topped with a mélange of fresh spring herbs and garlic, served with grilled lamb chops and a Grenache from the Rhone Valley.

Fava beans:  these labors of love will be turned into a simple sauté using wonderful dill and mint, and served roasted salmon along with a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

New potatoes:  far less starchy than other potatoes, these yummy spring-time morsels will be featured in a salad mixed with tender green beans, spring radishes, just-sprouting parsley, and dressed with olive oil.  They’ll accompany a roast chicken, and be served with a Sicilian Frappato.

Morel mushrooms:  these scrumptious splurges will be showcased in a simple pasta dish (garlic, shallots and olive oil), and will be accompanied by a real-deal Rosé Champagne to celebrate the arrival of Spring.

Happy Spring!  Stay Healthy!

Spring Forward Wines

Morels can change a benign dish into sublime!

Spring has sprung and with the changing of the season comes not only a bounty of fresh food products in our Farmer’s Markets but a movement away from the heavier wines of winter.  Let’s, however, get one thing out of the way:  no wines seem to pair well with one of Spring’s most famous vegetables, asparagus.  

After a long rainy winter, there’s nothing more welcoming than a profusion of wild mushrooms.  At the top of my list are morels, a earthy flavor bomb.  One of my favorite ways to prepare them is the classical French style: a sautee with shallots, butter and garlic.  I serve them along-side a grilled meat such as spring lamb or chicken.   An earthy Pinot Noir is a perfect pairing for both proteins, as well as the morels.   Try for an aged Pinot versus a younger one…older Pinots have more earthy profiles while the younger ones boast more fruit flavors.

Spring also means an abundance of tender lettuces and also watercress.  One of my favorites for this time of year is Julia Child’s recipe for watercress Vichyssoise. The color is definitely in the spring palette and depending upon Spring’s tricky weather, the soup can be served cold or warm.   The best wine?   Watercress is delicate so I suggest using a matching profile wine.  Regardless of what temperature the soup is served, I would head for a Gruner Veltliner or an unoaked, steely Chardonnay.

Fresh green peas and tender green beans are also some of Spring’s edible gems.  Either of these would work beautifully in a pasta dish with a light cream sauce.  A lighter red wine (such as a Pinot Noir) which cuts through the fat of the cream but does not overwhelm, would pair well, but also a Sauv Blanc or an oaked Chardonnay (which also cuts the fat) would also work with the cream.  

Strawberries and Spring are synonymous.  A cold strawberry soup is a gorgeous way to begin a Spring meal.   The recipe below (from the NY Times) is a delight and pairs with a Gruner or a warm weather Sauv Blanc that has more robust fruit (versus grass) flavors.   https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1012735-strawberry-soup

There’s a theme here.  Wines that match with Spring’s bounty are often Pinots, Gruners, Chars, and Sauv Blancs.  Next week we’ll take an in depth look at Sauv Blanc.

Got Gruner?

                        Wine-Knows will be staying in this fairy-tale Danube village on its 2018 trip

I’m just home from a whirlwind trip to Austria & Hungary----a “reconnaissance” for the 2018 Wine-Knows’ harvest trip to these two countries.  While I had visited Austria and Hungary some years ago, profound changes have occurred in the countries, including changes in their wine industry.  What hasn’t changed in Austria, however, is that many of its wine districts continue to be Gruner-centric. 

Gruner Veltliner is flat-out a spectacular varietal.  While it has long been a favorite choice of many fine-dining sommeliers, this white grape could become the next Holy Grail of the wine world.  Blind tastings of “Gruner” by international experts have shown that Gruner can outrank top white Burgundies such as Montrachet and Corton Charlemagne.  In fact, professional tasters often mistake top Gruners for white Burgundy (Chardonnay).

One out of every three vines in Austria is Gruner Veltliner.  The grape has a long history in the country as the Romans were vinifying it shortly after the birth of Christ.  It achieves rock-star status, however, in the region of the Danube River on steep, gravel terraces.  Gruner is a beautiful melding of minerality, along with a profusion of seductive peach and nectarine in best vintages with beautifully ripe grapes.  But, in years of less sunshine, Gruner’s citrus mélange mixed with gentle spices also makes an attractive wine.  Regardless of vintage, the varietal offer gorgeous acidity to make for a gorgeously balanced wine.

Got Guner?   If not, you must search out the following which were my favorites on the trip that are available in the USA.  All are family owned and operated wineries.  Each represents a superb quality – price ratio, with Muller being a steal for the price.  All are from Austria's castle-dotted northern Danube area just west of Vienna where Gruner reaches its pinnacle.

Listed in alpha order:

~  Bernard Ott:  Stein and Rosenberg (both 2015)

~  Hirtzberger:  Axpoint (2015)

~  Muller:  Kremser Kogl (2015)

~  Salomon Undorf:  Pfaffenberg (2015)  

Groovy Grüner

                                           >30% of Austria's grapes are Grüner Veltliner

Don’t worry about how to pronounce Grüner Veltliner.  It’s easier than it looks.  (grewner vilt leener). Don’t worry that you have never heard of this dry white wine ---it’s Austria’s signature wine grape and rarely grown in the U.S.  Do worry, however, if you’ve not tried this wine as it’s the perfect wine for a summer’s evening.

Until the 1990’s very few wine lovers had heard of Grüner but things have changed.  Today, any serious restaurant (whether it be in San Francisco, New York or Tokyo) is not without a Grüner Veltliner on its wine list.  In blind tasting after blind tasting among oenophiles in-the-know, Grüner continues to surprise many by floating to the top of the best whites…surpassing premier white Burgundies such as Corton Charlemagne and Montrachet.  Grüner is capable of producing very fine, full bodied wines.  Moreover, some of them are quite capable of aging.

Flavors?  Think lime, lemon and grapefruit mixed with peach or nectarine.  A note of herbs can be present that is often described as white pepper.  All of this is hanging cohesively on a well-structured backbone of acidity.

One of the most important qualities for me about a wine is how it pairs with food.  Grüner Veltliner is an especially food-friendly wine---it works well with the traditional pairings for high-acid whites such as chicken and fish, but it also works beautifully with spicy cuisines such as Asian.  Some even say that it passes the litmus test to pair with artichokes and artichokes, both of which have been next to impossible in our home to work with any wine.

The best Grüners can be expensive but they have enormous aging potential.  If you want to try a good one for $30 look for Niolai Hof’s Hefeabzug 2012.  The Wine Spectator listed it in its top 100 wines of the world, and Parker scored it a 91.

Get in the Groove!

June’s Wines

It’s almost summer.  Here are June’s recommendations for sipping this coming season…and all of them can be found for about 20 bucks.

• Gruner Veltliner:  I’m wild about this white varietal from Austria.  If you don’t know it you should.  Try it…you’ll like it!

• Cabernet Franc:  I can’t get enough of this light-weight red.  One of the blending varietals used in Bordeaux, it’s not so easy to find it alone.  France’s Loire Valley makes some stunning renditions, and the prices are usually reasonable.  This is a drink-young-wine with approachable tannins.

• Albarino:  Northwest Spain’s Holy Grail, this dry white is a stunner.  Its small amount of effervescence is perfect for a warm summer’s aperitif. 

• Torrontes:  Like peaches?  This wine has your name on it.  Made in Argentina, I never tire of this crowd pleaser…or its great quality price ratio of $15-20.

• Frappato:  Summer is also the season for strawberries.  If this flavor resonates with you, don’t miss this hidden red gem from Sicily.  Bravo!

• Vermentino:  Last, but in no way least, this white varietal from Italy’s northwestern coast is one of my personal faves.  Love, love, love it.

Happy summer!

Shoulda, Woulda, Coulda

It’s that time of the year for contemplation… all of the shoulda, woulda and coulda from the last 12 months.  A year or two ago the Wine Spectator had an article in which the author lamented about his greatest wine regrets.  Here’s my list of wine roads not taken.

     I wish I had known Gruner Veltliner earlier as it’s my latest darling varietal.  Yeah, I know it’s hard to pronounce, but as hard as it is to say, it’s the inverse wonderful to drink.  While I tried it 35 years ago on my first trip to Austria, it never hit home until this year when I had some terrific GV in New Zealand.  Now I can’t get enough of this fruity (think berries, citrus & stone fruits) & floral white dazzler native to Austria.

    I wish I had drunk more wines from Bierzo, Spain.  I’m currently working on the 2016 Wine Knows tour to Spain and Portugal and it reminds me of how much I love these wines.  Made from the Mencia grape, these drop-dead gorgeous, complex reds from Spain’s northwest should be on every wine lover’s radar.  For quality/price ratio, Bierzo’s Mencia knocks it out of the ballpark.

     I wish my last 35 years of serious wine drinking had all been done blindly.  In my ideal world, all wine should be consumed without knowing what it is or how much it costs. Too many of us are persuaded by the brand name, the price, or some other factor that has no relationship (necessarily) to what’s in the bottle.  Taste it blind…then decide if the quality warrants the price.  Taste it blind and you may be very surprised as to what you find.

     I wish Riesling was not such a step-child.  I notice several people avoiding this varietal…probably because of their preconceived ideas of a sweet wine.  The Rieslings I love are bone dry.   True, older Rieslings are often acquired tastes due to their petrol profile, but when correctly paired with food, this varietal is an real unsung hero for most Americans.

What wine roads should you take in 2015?  What’s on your wine bucket list?  What are your New Year’s Resolutions related to wine?

June Wines

           

Summer is almost here and for me it means switching to warm weather wines that can easily be served to guests for poolside sipping, enjoyed as an aperitif, or as an accompaniment to dinner as we watch the sunset over the distant Pacific.  Any of the following should add some magic to my namesake-month.

Gruner Veltliner:

Don’t let the name scare you away.  Even if you can’t pronounce it, you need to know it.  An exotic alternative to Sauvignon Blanc, this grape is Austria’s showcase varietal.  Think mango and peach.  With a solid acid framework, this one should float to the top of your June list---and, it’s worth the search.

Vermentino:

I have blogged several times about this Italian bombshell.  Native to Italy’s coastline near Portofino and the neighboring island of Sardenia, this is pure bliss in a glass.  A very aromatic grape, Vermentino offers up a sexy fruit and floral nose, along with a taste profile of citrus laced with pears and apples.  How do you say yummy in Italian?

Dry Rosé:

There are some killer rosés from both California and southern France available.  If you’re in the California mood, look no further than La Crema’s version.  We’ve conducted several blind tastings of rosés over the years and this one always floats to the top. 

Frapatto:

I’m a red wine girl but I don’t particularly enjoy complex, cerebral reds in the heat of the summer.  That being said, I’m wild about the lighter red grape from Sicily by the name of Frapatto.  This one is filled with strawberries and raspberries on the front end, with plums on the back.  

The Best of the Best---New Zealand

More than 100 wines were tasted on the recent Wine-Knows trip to New Zealand.   As we visited only la crème de la crème wineries, choosing the premier wines is like being asked to pick your favorite Michelin star meal from 2 weeks of outrageously grand dining in Europe or Japan.  Of interest is that only one Sauv Blanc made it on the list.

Below is what floated to the top.  Wines varied from $12 to $80 US and are listed in alphabetical order by producer:

• 2008 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir:  This winery was one of our Wine-Knows clients’ favorites.  An outdoor tasting overlooking the vineyards with one of the owners and the winemaker…what could be more sublime when you add rock-star wines?  This Pinot, with soft but complex tannins, was an elegant standout. ($60 US)

• 2010 Bilancia La Collina Viognier:  Maybe it was the drop-dead gorgeous panoramic hillside terrace setting where the wines were tasted?  Maybe it was the oh-so-talented female winemaker that lead us through the tasting of her “babies.”  Maybe it was the unique combination of 85% Viognier mixed with Gewurztraminer (another aromatic bombshell) that created this heavenly mélange?  Whatever it was, it had me at “hello.”  ($40 US)

• 2013:  Brannock Brae’s Grϋner Veltliner:  This white varietal, little unknown outside of Austria, was just only released from quarantine in New Zealand in 2008.  If this is any example of what the varietal is capable of in the Southern Hemisphere I would say that Grϋner might be the Kiwi’s next Sauv Blanc.  With a nose of peaches and nectarines, tastes of exotic fruits and white flowers, a solid acid backbone, all matched with a lovely finish… this one really stood out.  ($20 US)

• 2012 Dogpoint  Pinot Noir.  The earth moved on this one, and it may have been the best Pinot of the trip.  A combination of old vines mixed with others, the aromatics were cinnamon and cloves mixed with raspberries.  Roses and blueberries on the taste, along with a very good finish completed this near perfect package.  ($50 US)

• 2012 Dry River Chardonnay:   This winery’s owner has a PhD in Chemistry from Oxford.  As chemistry is the science of composition and structure, this Chardonnay is a perfect example of complex structure and well composed parts.  With its kaffir lime, melon, pear & vanilla nuances, I can imagine drinking it with everything from Asian to Mediterranean cuisine.  ($37 US)

• 2011 Fromm La Strada Chardonnay:   This Char garnered “one of the best buys of the trip” award.  Made in the style of un-manipulated French Burgundy, it was all about the more austere mineral profile, with hints of gooseberry and lemons.  The winning element was the finish---impressive at this price point.  ($30 US)

• 2013 Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc:  It was a real toss-up between this and their 2011 Wild Ferment Sauv Blanc, but I chose this one for its tropical nose versus the Wild Ferment’s slightly vegetal aromatics.  The flavors were grapefruit, lychees and a hint of peaches.   A fabulous finish wrapped it all up with a big bow for me.  ($25 US)

• 2011 Mt Difficulty Long Gully Pinot Noir.  The outdoor tasting at this knock-out winery was stupendous…breathtaking vistas, gorgeous weather and 10 beautiful wines.   This single vineyard wine was the star of the Central Otago area (the new darling area for Pinot), and one of the best in the country. ($80 US)

• 2011 Paritua Chardonnay:  I cried crocodile tears when I learned that this one is not exported to the US.  (In fact, China buys most of the winery’s limited production.)  Nonetheless, the long finish of its tropical fruit mixed with nuts really rocked my world.  The winemaker is coming to our home in August for a winemaker dinner…my fingers are crossed he’ll bring this wine.  ($30 US)

• 2012 St Clair Grϋner Veltliner Block 5:   Although Grϋner is a very food-friendly varietal, I could sip this one all afternoon at our pool on a warm summer’s day….or, serve it as the perfect aperitif.  With an enticing lemon curd nose, it boasted a savory and spice-filled palate and a fairly decent finish considering the price point.  ($25 US)

• 2013 Unison Rosé:  We had a killer night here at a private dinner composed of a 5 course degustation menu…all paired perfectly with this brilliant winery’s portfolio.  Bone dry, this well-made rosé made from Cab, Merlot and Sryah was matched with a homemade pumpkin tortellini in a tomato and chorizo sauce.   Loved every sip and morsel.  Fabulous buy.  ($15 US)