Rosé All Day !

                                           Looking for a gastronomic Rosé?   Look no further.

If you’re looking for summer in a bottle, I’ve got some quality Rosés for you.  There are three countries represented in this lineup, as well as a variety of different grapes to sample.   Two are from France’s Provence region---at the moment, the world's most famous area for Rosé production.  Another option in the mix is a “volcano” wine grown on the slopes of Mt. Etna in Sicily.  The last one is from California’s Anderson Valley in the northern wine region.  These are all serious Rosés.  All are about $20 and are superbly crafted wines.

Listed in alpha order….

                                     Provence's Tavel wine region is known for Rosé

Chateau d’Aqueria Tavel Rosé

This version is a full-bodied, almost opulent Rosé.  In some ways, it’s more like a light wine red than a Rosé.   A bend of seven grapes (heavy on the Grenache, the main grape of nearby Chateauneuf du Pape), expect summer strawberries mixed with an interesting array of earth flavors such as lavender and herbs.

                      Chateau la Coste features wine, food, and overnight lodging in Provence

Chateau la Coste Rosé

Another Provence-based Rosé, this one is an equally well-crafted wine.  Also Grenache based, this wine has received numerous international awards.  It’s a complex wine with intense red berry fruit and peach layers.  Want a gastronomic wine to welcome summer?  This is it!

                     Mt Etna's terroir is one of the most unusual of any of Europe's wine regions

Graci Etna Rosato Rosé

Grown in the mineral-laden soil of Europe’s most active volcano, this Etna Rosé is a great way to kick off a summer party.  Offering an interesting blend of stone fruit, citrus, savory herbs, and minerals, it's made from a native grape unknown outside of Sicily (Nerello Mascalese).  Indeed, it's a magnifico way to greet summer.

                            Sonoma County is home to the best of California's Pinots

Long Meadow Ranch Pinot Noir Rosé

The only California Rosé in the group, this wine is another internationally awarded Rosé.  A cut above many others in the state, this one offers succulent red fruit such as raspberries and cherries with a touch of citrus.  A perfect aperitif, it can also pair beautifully with a dinner of salmon, pork or chicken.

Have a Rosé-all-day summer!

Eat, Sip, Travel: Sicily

                                   Ortigia island is part of the mainland city of Syracuse

Wine-Knows was to have begun its Sicilian food and wine adventure a few days ago, but COVID changed our course. To honor what might have been , I'm writing this Blog.

We were to have started our journey on the historic island of Ortigia (one of ancient Greece's most important colonies), where timeless beauty   abounds : dazzling squares flanked by majestic Baroque buildings with elaborate rot iron balconies, and a labyrinth of pedestrian only alleyways lined with palaces and simple fishermen's homes that wind down to the emerald Mediterranean.  Joined to the mainland by a short bridge,  Ortigia is a deeply atmospheric place of myriad architecture styles and a tapestry of cultures. 

                                  Capers are much more intense tasting than caper berries 

Capers are an important part of the Sicilian cuisine. The caper bush grows wild here and Sicilian capers are prized by gourmet chefs around the globe. Capers appear in some form or another on every menu (from antipasto to pasta, and from veggies to meat dishes). Yesterday we were to have visited Ortigia's market to taste the difference between capers and caper berries: caper, the bud of a Mediterranean shrub, is more intense, while the berry (which is the actual fruit of the caper shrub) are much more delicate.   T he island's most prized capers are not brined but preserved in salt. 

       Eggplant is used in Sicily's famous caponata, as well its other signature dish, Pasta Norma

Caponata is one of Sicily's signature dishes.   There's something magical in the mathematics of this sweet and sour stew of eggplant, peppers, celery, capers, onions and onions:   the whole is better than the sum of its parts.   Something special happens when the sweet tomato paste melds into the red wine vinegar and coats the veggies like a yummy blanket.

                                  Cassata, Sicily's hallmark cake, is studded with candied fruits

Candying fruit in Sicily is an art form and citrus is one of the most popular.   Catholic nuns, who sold sweets to support their convents, introduced the candying process to Sicily.   The island's two most famous desserts (cannoli and cassata) both use candied fruits.

       These arancini filled with ooey-gooey cheese were to have been one of the appetizers last night

Oranges are so popular that they have given their name to one of Sicily's most traditional foods, arancini ( “little oranges") .     T hese golf ball rounds (think meat balls), are filled mainly with rice but often flavored with chicken, beef, or even vegetables. 

                Pastry shops are filled with stunning miniature marzipan “fruit” such as these

Another important part of Sicily’s gastronomy is the art of marzipan.   A delicious paste made of ground almonds and sugar (Sicilian almonds are unsurpassed in flavor), marzipan is a serious business in Sicily.  In addition to fruit, marzipan also comes in the form of other food products such as ears of corn, tiny pumpkins, and even carrots.  Like cassata and cannoli, marzipan came from the culinary tricks of nuns in Sicily’s convents.

                         Feudi di Pisciotto is a jaw-dropping 18^th century wine estate

One of our stops for two nights was to have been Feudi di Pisciotto, a boutique hotel located on a historic 400 acre farming estate.   Producing some of southeastern Sicily’s best wines, this estate’s winemaker was to host us for a private tasting followed by this  dinner at Fuedi’s award-winning restaurant:

• Seafood Couscous (in homage to Sicily’s Arab rule for centuries). Served with the estate’s top wine, Cerasuolo (a blended light-tannin red)

• Grilled swordfish with grilled lemons & purple cauliflower, capers & estate olive oil.     Served with the estate’s Nero d’Avola named after Gianni Versace

• Minature house-made cannoli filled with local ricotta, chocolate & candied oranges.    Served with the estate's dessert wine named after another famous designer, Gianfranco Ferrè

The tour has been changed to next October, 2021. At the moment there are two spaces available: www.WineKnowsTravel.com

Long live Sicily!          

3 Unknown Italian Wines You Should Know

Vermentino comes from exquisite Liguria

                                

This is the second Blog paying tribute to Italy during its struggle with COVID-19.  Today’s article will discuss three grapes that are popular in Italy but relatively unknown to most Americans.  Because of their obscurity, however, they all are  great values.  Two are red wines and one is white.  Two are from Sicily, the other is from northern Italy.   All of them should definitely be on your radar screen for spring and summer wines as they are quite quaffable during warmer weather and pair well with foods typical of these two seasons.

First, let’s begin with Vermentino, the northern varietal and one of my personal favorites in all of Italy.   This way under-rated grape is grown primarily on the Ligurian coastline south of Genoa (e.g. Cinque Terre, Portofino and Santa Margherita), and the island of Sardinia also produces excellent Vermentino.   Think Sauvignon Blanc without the grass, but with some compelling added elements.  Vermentino offers luscious citrus mixed often with pear and white peach, mineral notes, floral scents, and almond nuances.   

Gnocchi & Vermentino:  a magical pairing in a magical country

Vermentino is magnifico both as an aperitivo as well as a wine to drink with dinner.  Its high acid structure allows it to work well with many foods.  My favorites are scallops in a caper/lemon sauce or plain grilled salmon, but a brined-then-grilled pork chop also works.   The wine also has enough structure to  pair with beloved Italian vegetables such as artichokes and arugula.  

Like Vermentino, Frappato is another bargain due to its undiscovered status in the USA.  Grown mainly in Sicily’s volcanic soils, this varietal offers an exciting opportunity to try a wine you don’t know.   Frapatto’s flavor profile is strawberries but there are also tastes of pomegranates and cloves.

                                    Frapatto is only one of Sicily's many charms

A low to moderate bodied red wine, Frapatto is an ideal choice for the lighter foods of spring and summer due to its muted tannin structure.    This wine is all about freshness, not power.   It’s an ideal red wine aperitif, but can pair equally well with tomato-sauced pastas, as well as grilled chicken or fish.

Nero d’Avola is another red from Italy’s far south, Sicily.   If you love full-bodied reds like Syrah or Cabernet, this varietal is for you.   Nero d’Avola is a powerhouse that delivers big gobs of black cherries with other flavors like licorice and even cigar-box hints.  Expect robust tannins and good levels of acidity.   Because of this, I would not suggest that it be served as an aperitif.

                                         Italy:  the world is praying for you

A bold wine, Nero d’Avola needs matched with equally bold food.   A grilled burger or steak would work beautifully, as would a pasta of Portobello mushrooms.  A pizza topped with spicy pork sausage, funghi porcini, grilled eggplant or roasted red peppers would be my nirvana for my pairing.

     I have a big amore for these three varietals.  I think you will, too.  All are available 

     in the US.

Viva Italia!

Treasure Island---Sicily

                                      Magnificent wines & fabulous gastronomy await visitors

Italy’s Mediterranean destination-island is a treasure trove of perfect seafood, intensely flavored vegetables, superb olive oil, and world-class wines. Strongly influenced by its many conquerors---from the Greeks, to the Romans, the Arabs, the French and the Spanish---the island’s culture represents a unique crossroads of the Mediterranean.  Stunning island geography, along with a breathtaking tapestry of art and architecture (including two of the best-preserved Greek temples in the world), completes this Italian jewel.

Grapes are grown on the slopes of Mt Etna

One of the biggest show-stoppers of Sicily is its wines.  Prepare yourself for new varietals that only are  grown in Sicily.   Indigenous grapes such as Nero d’Avola, Frappato, Grillo, Catarrato, Carricante and Insolia are not grown elsewhere.  Adding to the attraction is that many of these grapes are grown in mineral-rich volcanic soil which imparts interesting complexities.   There’s no problem ripening fruit in Sicily due to its idyllic year around climate.  All of this translates into lush, fruit-forward wines with a hint of minerality.  Simply put, Sicily’s wines are stunning and full of unique personality.

                                           Even the eggplant are special varietals

Sicily’s cuisine is different from any other Italian region.  In fact, the mainland Italians consider Sicily a continent.   The island’s culinary prowess comes from its vivid and diverse background of past conquerors who left their indelible mark on Sicily’s gastronomic scene.  Expect hints of exotic spices like saffron and cinnamon paired with local ingredients—lemons, blood oranges, almonds, fresh capers, and wild mountain oregano.  There’s an abundance of fish and seafood, with swordfish being one of the specialties.

    Vegetables are like you've never had them before 

Wine Knows will be visiting Sicily during their grape harvest in September 2020.  The trip is sold out.  If you will not be joining us but wish to explore the island's great quality/price ratio wines, here are my suggestions for the best producers, listed in alphabetical order:

• Cusumano
• Donnafugata
• Occhipinti
• Passopisciaro
• Planeta
• Tenuta Fessina
• Tenuta delle Terre Nere

 Ciao!

Giving Thanks...

This upcoming week reminds us to give thanks for our blessings.   I have many, most of them big blessings like great health and wonderful family/friends. On a less serious note, here’s my list of wines for which I am thankful.

Tropical Sauvignon Blancs

I love Sauv Blancs that offer a tropical profile (usually from in warmer climates).   I don’t find cool climate Sauv Blancs with their green, grassy, herbal notes particularly appealing (but many do).   Merry Edwards is my current fave Cali rendition.

Buttery Chardonnays

Yes, I’m going to buck the trend of those shying away from these wines and put in a plug for a well-crafted Char with a voluptuous, velvety texture and other subtle nuances that stem from Malo-Lactic fermentation.  

Wines with a great finish

While many concentrate on a big fruit forward wine that offers enticing aromas and a great palate, one of the most important things for me is a lengthy finish.

Wines that offer a great bang-for-the-buck

I don’t mind paying some serious money for a killer wine.   That being said, my faves are those that provide killer price/quality ratios.  One of the best producers for quality/price is Joel Gott (Napa Valley) who sources all of his grapes.  His wines are in the 20 bucks range.   Another great producer is Barrel 27 (Paso Robles) which offers off-the-chart-values for their well-crafted wine in the same price range.

Wines with fruits and minerals

I’m falling in love with subtle mineral nuances, especially if they are layered with fruits.  Suggestions:  Assyrtiko (a wine from the Greek island of Santorini), or Nero di Avola (from the Mount Etna region of Sicily).

Obscure varietals

I am so excited to learn about new varietals, especially indigenous varieties that aren’t available anywhere else.  Look for the Torrontes (a white fruit-bomb) from Argentina, or Bierzo (a heavenly red) from Northern Spain.  Be adventurous!

Happy Thanksgiving!

June’s Wines

It’s almost summer.  Here are June’s recommendations for sipping this coming season…and all of them can be found for about 20 bucks.

• Gruner Veltliner:  I’m wild about this white varietal from Austria.  If you don’t know it you should.  Try it…you’ll like it!

• Cabernet Franc:  I can’t get enough of this light-weight red.  One of the blending varietals used in Bordeaux, it’s not so easy to find it alone.  France’s Loire Valley makes some stunning renditions, and the prices are usually reasonable.  This is a drink-young-wine with approachable tannins.

• Albarino:  Northwest Spain’s Holy Grail, this dry white is a stunner.  Its small amount of effervescence is perfect for a warm summer’s aperitif. 

• Torrontes:  Like peaches?  This wine has your name on it.  Made in Argentina, I never tire of this crowd pleaser…or its great quality price ratio of $15-20.

• Frappato:  Summer is also the season for strawberries.  If this flavor resonates with you, don’t miss this hidden red gem from Sicily.  Bravo!

• Vermentino:  Last, but in no way least, this white varietal from Italy’s northwestern coast is one of my personal faves.  Love, love, love it.

Happy summer!

Perfect Foodie Gifts to Bring Home from Italy

I'm on my way to Italy with two different groups.  Often times on my tours I am asked by my clients what gifts are best to bring home  for their food-loving friends.  My answer depends on the district of the country in which the group is----each region has certain gourmet specialties.  Below I’ve listed my recommendations beginning with Umbria and Tuscany as that’s where Wine-Knows has rented villas this June, however, I’ve added ideas for many other regions.  My suggestions are based on the weight of the item, ease in packing it, perishability, and uniqueness.

Umbria

   ~ Umbria is world famous for its black truffles.  Truffle oil and truffle paste are great because they are not near as perishable as fresh truffles.

   ~ Nothing says Umbria like a piece of Deruta pottery for the kitchen.  There are all sizes and shapes of these colorful ceramics available, many of which never make it to the export market.

                                                             Deruta's tempting wares

Tuscany:

   ~ Vin Santo (a dessert wine often eaten with biscotti)  is a Tuscan tradition.  While available in the U.S., many of the boutique producers’ Vin Santo does not leave the country.  As it is frequently packaged in half bottles, it can easily be brought home packed in your suitcase.

                        Biscotti, another Tuscan specialty, pairs beautifully with Vin Santo

   ~ Finocchiona salami is a specialty of the Chianti wine region.  This savory deeply flavored salami is chocked full of local fennel.

Emilia Romagna:

   ~ The capitol of Italy’s gourmet cuisine, there’s a plethora of goodies to tempt you (e.g. home of Parmigiano Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma and Balsamic Vinegar).  Pasta attains true stardom in this region and you’ll see shapes and sizes that you’ll  never see again.  If packed between layers of clothes, a package of dry pasta weathers the journey home nicely.

                                Butterfly-shaped pasta in the colors of the Italian flag

   ~ Balsamic is in every grocery store these days, however, aged Balsamico is not.  Pickup a small bottle of 20 or 30 year old rich, aromatic, syrupy Balsamic for drizzling back home on fruit dessert (or add it at the last moment to a savory sauce for major complexity).

Amalfi Coast:

   ~ Gigantic lemons are one of the hallmarks of the coast.  While US customs forbids bringing them back, you can bring back a memory of them in the form of a kitchen towel, pot holder or even a small ceramic platter decorated by local artisans with colorful lemons.  All are very abundant in shops.

                              When life gives you monstrous lemons, make limoncello

  

~ Superbly yummy San Marzano tomoatoes are grown on the slopes of Mt Vesuvious which looms over the entire Amalfi Coast and Bay of Naples.  Tomato paste (double or triple concentrations are the best) are fabulous gifts to bring home…I usually buy a dozen and stick one in to a hostess gift.

  

                         Paste comes in 3 strengths:  regular (L), double (C), & triple (R) 

Sicily:

   ~Capers are available in every province in Italy, however, the Sicilian varietal is the pinnacle.  Dry-packaged in salt (which is rinsed before serving), these taste like no other caper you’ll ever have.  They are expensive but worth every Euro.    

                                 Meaty, plump capers like you're never had before

   ~Bottarga is another Sicilian specialty.  Somewhat like dried caviar, it is a salted and cured fish roe.  Expensive, it is often added in small amounts to pasta dishes, although it can also be served on a crostini.

Lombardy:

   ~ Northern Lombardy is home to polenta, risotto, Gorgonzola and Taleggio, all of which are widely available in the US.  It is also home to mostarda, a heavenly savory fruit condiment somewhat like chutney.  Served with meats or even cheeses, this labor-intensive delectable can make even the simplest dish into a masterpiece.

  

                                     Mostarda made from plums, pears, peaches & apricots

Piedmont:

   ~ Home to the Slow-Food movement, this northern most district that shares a border with France is one of my favorite for gourmet gifts.  Piedmont is synonymous with the white truffle, the King of truffles.  Truffle-centric gifts are everywhere from salami to truffle oil.  Truffle shavers are also available in every shop.

                  White truffles are so expensive that they require a shaver to thinly slice them

        

   ~ If it’s not summer, than one of the best gifts to bring home from Piedmont is gianduja, the marriage of chocolate and hazelnut.  Gianduja is an art-form here as exotic, imported cocoa beans are mixed with the smoky local hazelnut.   (If it is summer, bring home just the unusually rich, and intense local hazelnuts).

                                            A Italian marriage made in heaven 

Best of Sicily

For those of you who couldn’t make the October trip to Sicilia, here are my thoughts on the “best of the best,” listed in alpha order:

Baglio di Pianetto

Wine-Knows ends our Sicilian tours at the special villa that is owned by Count Marzotto, one of Italy’s largest patron of the arts, as well as one of the country’s most powerful wine-moguls.  The Count’s chief winemaker (who presides over all of Marzotto’s wine empire), flew down from northern Italy to welcome our group.  The most compelling wine was the 2007 Salici, a Merlot that had been aged in a combination of new French oak and stainless.   While the vintage is difficult to find, it’s worth seeking out.    $30

                                                            Baglio di Pianetto's Villa

Donnafugata

One of my perennial favorites in which to bring our Wine-Knows groups, Donnafugata’s private country is spectacular.  Our private dinner here began with an aperitivo in the gorgeous garden just as the sun was setting.  This wine which was served to “wet our appetite,” is one of my most beloved in Sicily and is made from a relative of the Muscat grape.  Sicilians call the varietal Zibbibo, and Donnafugata has named their version Lighea.  This Zibbibo is bone dry, offering a rich bouquet of peaches and floral nuances such as roses and orange blossoms.  Love, love, love it.    $20

                                      The setting for Donnafugata's stunning Lighea

Feudi Del Pisciotto

This winery was dazzling.  Once a former village, the entire small hill-top hamlet has been purchased by the winery.  Former homes have been converted into hotel rooms, other homes are slated for a restaurant and holiday apartments.  The church is now a stunning setting for wine-related events such as the private tasting held for Wine-Knows.  Each wine is named after the Italian fashion designer who created its work-of-art label (e.g. Versace, Brioni, Valentino).  Carolina Marengo’s seductive label had me at hello, but it was what inside that stole my heart.  This killer wine, made from the 2012 vintage of Grillo, was a luscious taste of the nearby sea, mixed with complex layers of apricots and pineapple.  I brought this bottle home to my husband.  Need I say more?   $35

                                                A church turned into a winery reception area.

Gulfi

Asking to choose a favorite at this very special property (a Napa-esque estate built with a mega Euro fortune) is like asking a parent to name their favorite child.  What I will say, however, is that the *best buy* at Gulfi is probably their well-crafted Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2012, Sicily’s only DOCG.  Made from a combination of Nero d’Avola and Frappato ( a lighter, strawberry nuanced wine), Gulfi’s rendition is sublime for its price tag.  Should you ever visit Sicily, consider staying on this property and definitely dine in their restaurant---one of the best meals of  Wine-Knows’ recent tour.   $25

                                 A winery, a destination restaurant & a B&B

Passopisciaro 

Mount Etna has the highest vineyards in Europe.  This Etna winery produces single vineyard wine which they call “contrada.”   A contrada is actually a specific lava path where super-heated magma once flowed down the sides of the still active volcano.  These contradas are comprised of decomposed, mineral rich volcanic soil.   Their Contrada R 2012 was a knock-out.  Made from Nerello Mascalese (which are only grown on Etna), these grapes came from 100 year old vines.  The result was a complex eruption in my mouth of layers of red-fruit mixed with beautiful mineral nuances.   $50

                               Etna exerts a tremendous effect over the entire island's terroir

Riofavara

Located in Sicily far southeastern corner, the limestone soils of this winery offer one of the island’s premier spots for growing the Nero d’Avola varietal.  Only grown in Sicily, this grape is becoming more and more popular for oenophiles.  An aged “Nero,” can offer complex aromas of leather, cocoa, licorice and cinnamon, with mineral overlays of mint.  Riofavara’s Schiavé 2010 was all of this and more.  Kermit Lynch in Berkeley, Ca. is the importer.   $30

                               The owner & winemaker of Riofavara conducted a private tasting

Settesoli (MandraRossa Brand)

This was my first time to visit Sicily’s largest producer, but it won’t be my last.  Our private tasting here was led by one of the winemakers who presented an impressive lineup of the winery’s top tier, Mandrarossa.   I couldn’t decide between the heavenly white Santa Nella 2012 (crafted most from the local Fiano grape with a sprinkling of Chenin Blanc) and the Bonera 2013, a fabulous blend of half Cabernet Franc and half Nero d’Avola.  Again, all 8 wines we tasted during the formal 2 hour seminar were well made.   

                                        The taste of the sea was evident in MandraRossa wines