Sicily: a Wine Lover’s "Paradiso"

              Sicilia offers unknown varietals grown in volcanic soil with an abundance of sunshine

Goethe got it right in many ways:  “To see Italy without having seen Sicily, is not to have seen Italy at all.”   That is certainly true of Sicily’s cuisine, but it is just as true of the island’s treasure trove of well-crafted wines.  Sicily’s huge number of indigenous grapes are a wine lover’s dream.  Nowhere else in the world can an oenophile experience this plethora of little known grape varietals all located within one region.  

                     The Ancient Greeks called Sicily "Oenotria," meaning the land of the vine 

One of the biggest show-stoppers in Sicily is its wines made from indigenous grapes.  Sicily has been making wine for more than 3,000 years.  As an important crossroad on the Mediterranean for centuries, the island was visited by everyone including the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Moors, French & Spaniards.  All brought grapevines with them.  More importantly, it boasts nearly ninety varieties of wine grapes not grown anywhere else on the planet.

     Mt Etna has a tremendous effect on Sicily's weather & grape growing

Adding to the attraction of Sicily’s wines is the unique terroir of the island, much of which is influenced by volcanoes on the island.  “Volcano wines” is a new international buzz word and Sicily is at the epicenter of these new sought after wines.  As most wine lovers know the soil in which grapes are grown is instrumental.  Mineral-rich volcanic soil imparts deep complexities into the wines.  Volcanos also dramatically effect the island’s weather.  All of this translates to lush, fruit-forward complex wines with a hint of minerality.  Simply put, Sicily’s wines are stunning and offer wine lovers exciting new adventures in their glass.

                                            Vineyards on Sicily are never far from the sea

Take a look at three of these only-in-Sicily-wine grapes whose wines have won an array of international awards:

• Carricante is Mt. Etna’s signature white grape which has been growing on the volcano's slopes for >1,000 years.  Its wines offer a full range of citrus flavors, as well as herbal notes such as mint and licorice.

•  Frapatto, a red grape, is low in tannins making it a perfect summer red.  If you like strawberries, you’ll enjoy this wine.

•  Nero d’Avola is the island's hallmark grape.  Often compared to Syrah, Nero is a dark red grape that creates bold dark cherry, plum & spice flavors. 

Fantasy Island?  Treasure Island?  Paradise Island?   For wine aficionados, Sicily is all of these and more. 

 

Give me Five! 5 New Grapes for 2022

Let’s get 2022 off to an exciting start with five new delightful wine grapes to try.  When I say new, I mean new to Americans---all of these varieties have been growing for centuries in Europe.   In fact, wine lovers who have traveled to Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast, the Greek Island of Santorini, northwest Spain, or Sicily may have sampled them, but essentially these varietals remain unknown to Americans.  The good news is that all of them are imported----and because of their obscurity, they are terrific buys (many at rock-bottom pricing considering their quality).

                                 Korcula island is home to both the Posip grape & Marco Polo

Posip, an intensely aromatic and flavor-chocked white wine grape, is Croatia’s best kept secret.   Grown exclusively on the Dalmatian coastline, this variety is indigenous to the island of Korcula (better known as the island where Marco Polo was born).  Posip is the result of two obscure grape varieties crossing in a Korcula vineyard.  This sleeper wine delivers tastes of figs, citrus, apricots and almonds, along with decent acidity.  I recently bought online a case of my favorite producer, Black Horse.  The name of the wine is Mega Vieta and the 2020 vintage is superb. ($20 per bottle)

                                         Santorini offers mind-boggling views & stunning wines

The second of the five new varietals is also from an island, but this one's located in Greece.  Santorini is certainly one of the most dramatic gems of the Mediterranean.  The Assyrtiko grape, like Posip, is native to the island on which it is grown.  Assyrtiko thrives in Santorini's  arid climate in inhospitable volcanic ash soil.  This wine is reminiscent of a Sauv Blanc with a lemon-lime profile with compelling mineral nuances.  Like Posip, Santorini's native variety brings the necessary acid to carry the wine's structure.  Look no further than Gaia or Sigalas for the best producer.  Plan on $25-30 bucks per bottle.

Keeping with the theme of islands, let's now move to the Mediterranean's largest:  Sicily.  There are two unknown grapes here that need to jump-start your 2022.  The first is a varietal called Grillo.  On a recent Wine-Knows' trip to Sicily, I couldn't get enough of this white wine which offers apple, citrus, and almond nuances.   I particularly enjoyed Valle dell'Acate's Zagra at <$20.

                         This Frapatto is named after haute couture designer, Carolina Marengo 

The second Sicilian varietal you need to try is Frapatto, a red wine grape.   Frapatto is, however, a light weight red so it works perfectly with fish, seafood and poultry prepared in a simple way without complicated sauces.    Think strawberries and cherries laced with a floral component.   One of my faves is Feudo del Pisciotto's Carolina Marengo Kisa.  It's available for about $30 buck.   

          Pazo Senorans is always a must-visit winery on Wine-Knows' Galicia tours (next trip 2024)

The last of the five new wine grapes is from the mainland of Spain, an area called Galicia in the far northwest corner of the country.   Albarino, the name of the grape and the wine, comes from the province of Galicia.  This grape is grown in Spain as well as Portugal.  In Galicia it reaches its pinnacle creating wines with a beautiful melange of stone fruit and citrus flavors.   I highly recommend Pazo Senorans who produces several Albarinos that range from $20-30.

Have an adventurous 2022 and try some of these unknown wines!

Sicily: Are Ancient Varieties the Future?

                                Wine-Knows has 2 openings on its October trip this fall to Sicily

This is the first of four articles on Sicily, a region of Italy that has been growing grapes for more than 3,000 years.  As an important crossroad on the Mediterranean for centuries, the island was visited by everyone including the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, French and Spaniards.  All brought grapevines with them.  Today, Sicily has the largest number of vineyards in all of Italy.  More importantly, it boasts nearly ninety varieties of wine grapes not grown anywhere else on the planet.

Sicily has some of the greatest Greek temples in Europe

Sicily’s huge number of indigenous grapes are a wine lover’s dream.  No where else in the world can an oenophile experience this plethora of little known grape varietals all located in one region.  The last twenty years has seen a renaissance with these native varieties.  Winemakers now are seeing the value of unique grapes, and are actually moving away from the international varietals (Chardonnay, Cabernet) that were so popular in the 1990’s.

Vineyards are never far from the sea in Sicily

Below are four only-in-Sicily wines that are knocking it out of the park with great quality/price and a host of international awards:

Grillo: 

The white Grillo grape is somewhat like a Sicilian combo of Sauv Blanc and Pinot Grigio.   Grillo can make a seductive wine with aromas of white flowers and citrus.  Depending on the soil in which it is grown (most of Sicily’s soil is volcanic), it can deliver herbal (e.g. chamomile) nuances, all the way to spicy or tropical notes.  Grillo is an actual cross between two Sicilian grapes: Catarratto (see below) and Zibbibo (a member of the aromatic Muscat family of grapes).

Don’t miss the following Grillos which are quality wines at bargain prices: Il Fondo Antico’s Grillo Parlante, or Assuli’s Astolfo.

                              Mt Etna has a tremendous effect on Sicily's grape growing

Carricante:

Carricante is a Sicilian native white grape that has been growing on Mt. Etna for over 1,000 years.  Mt Etna not only has the highest vineyards in Italy but it also offers a terroir of intense sunlight and dramatic volcanic soil.  Carricante thrives here.  In fact, it has become the white signature grape of the Etna DOC (all of these whites must be at least 60% Carricante).   

The grape offers a full range of citrus flavors, as well as herbal notes such as mint and licorice.  Check out Etna Bianco by Planeta, as well as Passopisciaro---both are stunning.

Frapatto:

Frapatto is a refreshing and fruity red wine and it's made from an indigenous red grape of the same name.  In the past, it has been blended with other grapes, however, Frapatto is becoming more and more popular on its own.   A light bodied wine with low tannins, it’s a perfect summer red that can even be enjoyed as an aperitif.   If you like strawberries, then you’ll enjoy Frapatto as this fruit flavor is prevalent, along with subtle floral notes.

Recommended producers?   Look for Occhipenti, COS, and Alessandro di Camporeale.

Nero D’Avola:

Nero D’Avola is the King of all Sicilian grapes----whether they are indigenous or not.  This native varietal used to be grown only in the southeast corner of the island, however, it is now grown in all parts of the island.  The wine changes depending on where the grapes were grown.   In the glass, Nero D’Avola is known for its aromatics as well as its red fruit flavors, and its spicy and floral profile.

Top producers of indigenous grape wines include Cusumano, Feudo Maccari and Feudo Montoni.

 

Viva Sicilia!!!

3 Unknown Italian Wines You Should Know

Vermentino comes from exquisite Liguria

                                

This is the second Blog paying tribute to Italy during its struggle with COVID-19.  Today’s article will discuss three grapes that are popular in Italy but relatively unknown to most Americans.  Because of their obscurity, however, they all are  great values.  Two are red wines and one is white.  Two are from Sicily, the other is from northern Italy.   All of them should definitely be on your radar screen for spring and summer wines as they are quite quaffable during warmer weather and pair well with foods typical of these two seasons.

First, let’s begin with Vermentino, the northern varietal and one of my personal favorites in all of Italy.   This way under-rated grape is grown primarily on the Ligurian coastline south of Genoa (e.g. Cinque Terre, Portofino and Santa Margherita), and the island of Sardinia also produces excellent Vermentino.   Think Sauvignon Blanc without the grass, but with some compelling added elements.  Vermentino offers luscious citrus mixed often with pear and white peach, mineral notes, floral scents, and almond nuances.   

Gnocchi & Vermentino:  a magical pairing in a magical country

Vermentino is magnifico both as an aperitivo as well as a wine to drink with dinner.  Its high acid structure allows it to work well with many foods.  My favorites are scallops in a caper/lemon sauce or plain grilled salmon, but a brined-then-grilled pork chop also works.   The wine also has enough structure to  pair with beloved Italian vegetables such as artichokes and arugula.  

Like Vermentino, Frappato is another bargain due to its undiscovered status in the USA.  Grown mainly in Sicily’s volcanic soils, this varietal offers an exciting opportunity to try a wine you don’t know.   Frapatto’s flavor profile is strawberries but there are also tastes of pomegranates and cloves.

                                    Frapatto is only one of Sicily's many charms

A low to moderate bodied red wine, Frapatto is an ideal choice for the lighter foods of spring and summer due to its muted tannin structure.    This wine is all about freshness, not power.   It’s an ideal red wine aperitif, but can pair equally well with tomato-sauced pastas, as well as grilled chicken or fish.

Nero d’Avola is another red from Italy’s far south, Sicily.   If you love full-bodied reds like Syrah or Cabernet, this varietal is for you.   Nero d’Avola is a powerhouse that delivers big gobs of black cherries with other flavors like licorice and even cigar-box hints.  Expect robust tannins and good levels of acidity.   Because of this, I would not suggest that it be served as an aperitif.

                                         Italy:  the world is praying for you

A bold wine, Nero d’Avola needs matched with equally bold food.   A grilled burger or steak would work beautifully, as would a pasta of Portobello mushrooms.  A pizza topped with spicy pork sausage, funghi porcini, grilled eggplant or roasted red peppers would be my nirvana for my pairing.

     I have a big amore for these three varietals.  I think you will, too.  All are available 

     in the US.

Viva Italia!

Seeing RED on the 4th!

                                                        Summer calls for lighter bodied reds

The 4th of July always signals to me the switch to lighter bodied red wines:  out with the highly structured Cabernets, those big Mouvedres from Bandol, the intense Malbecs from Argentina, and those California Zinfandels with soaring alcohol levels.    The heat of summer calls for easier drinking reds without a lot of tannin or alcohol.  Here are my favorite four to honor the 4^th.

Pinot Noir:

One of the best summer reds is Pinot Noir.  A more feminine grape, Pinot has lower tannins than most other red grapes which means it’s easier drinking in the warmer temperatures of July and August.   Silky and soft, Pinot Noir can be a refreshing summer alternative to the more powerhouse big reds of winter.

Barbera:

Barbera is also a good choice for summer-time quaffing.  The grape has very little tannin and lots of fruit profile.  Mainly grown in the Piedmont district of Italy (home to the heavily structured Barolo and Barbaresco), Barbera works well with summer’s menu of simple grilled meats, poultry and fish.

Frapatto:

One of my fave red wines to drink during the heat of the summer is Frapatto.  Grown primarily in Sicily, this gem of a wine is perfect as an aperitif or with a lighter main course such as poultry or fish.  When I think of Frapatto I think of strawberries as this berry is very prominent in both the varietal’s taste and aroma.   Serve it and I guarantee people will rave.

Grenache:

This grape, which is native to Spain, is also grown in France’s Rhone Valley.   Both countries make lighter-style red (unless the wine is aged in oak).   This low tannin wine serves up an impressive lineup of summer-time flavors of red fruit such as raspberry and strawberry (versus black fruit of the more highly structured reds).

Here’s to the RED white and blue!

June Wines

           

Summer is almost here and for me it means switching to warm weather wines that can easily be served to guests for poolside sipping, enjoyed as an aperitif, or as an accompaniment to dinner as we watch the sunset over the distant Pacific.  Any of the following should add some magic to my namesake-month.

Gruner Veltliner:

Don’t let the name scare you away.  Even if you can’t pronounce it, you need to know it.  An exotic alternative to Sauvignon Blanc, this grape is Austria’s showcase varietal.  Think mango and peach.  With a solid acid framework, this one should float to the top of your June list---and, it’s worth the search.

Vermentino:

I have blogged several times about this Italian bombshell.  Native to Italy’s coastline near Portofino and the neighboring island of Sardenia, this is pure bliss in a glass.  A very aromatic grape, Vermentino offers up a sexy fruit and floral nose, along with a taste profile of citrus laced with pears and apples.  How do you say yummy in Italian?

Dry Rosé:

There are some killer rosés from both California and southern France available.  If you’re in the California mood, look no further than La Crema’s version.  We’ve conducted several blind tastings of rosés over the years and this one always floats to the top. 

Frapatto:

I’m a red wine girl but I don’t particularly enjoy complex, cerebral reds in the heat of the summer.  That being said, I’m wild about the lighter red grape from Sicily by the name of Frapatto.  This one is filled with strawberries and raspberries on the front end, with plums on the back.