Sicily: a Wine Lover’s "Paradiso"

              Sicilia offers unknown varietals grown in volcanic soil with an abundance of sunshine

Goethe got it right in many ways:  “To see Italy without having seen Sicily, is not to have seen Italy at all.”   That is certainly true of Sicily’s cuisine, but it is just as true of the island’s treasure trove of well-crafted wines.  Sicily’s huge number of indigenous grapes are a wine lover’s dream.  Nowhere else in the world can an oenophile experience this plethora of little known grape varietals all located within one region.  

                     The Ancient Greeks called Sicily "Oenotria," meaning the land of the vine 

One of the biggest show-stoppers in Sicily is its wines made from indigenous grapes.  Sicily has been making wine for more than 3,000 years.  As an important crossroad on the Mediterranean for centuries, the island was visited by everyone including the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Moors, French & Spaniards.  All brought grapevines with them.  More importantly, it boasts nearly ninety varieties of wine grapes not grown anywhere else on the planet.

     Mt Etna has a tremendous effect on Sicily's weather & grape growing

Adding to the attraction of Sicily’s wines is the unique terroir of the island, much of which is influenced by volcanoes on the island.  “Volcano wines” is a new international buzz word and Sicily is at the epicenter of these new sought after wines.  As most wine lovers know the soil in which grapes are grown is instrumental.  Mineral-rich volcanic soil imparts deep complexities into the wines.  Volcanos also dramatically effect the island’s weather.  All of this translates to lush, fruit-forward complex wines with a hint of minerality.  Simply put, Sicily’s wines are stunning and offer wine lovers exciting new adventures in their glass.

                                            Vineyards on Sicily are never far from the sea

Take a look at three of these only-in-Sicily-wine grapes whose wines have won an array of international awards:

• Carricante is Mt. Etna’s signature white grape which has been growing on the volcano's slopes for >1,000 years.  Its wines offer a full range of citrus flavors, as well as herbal notes such as mint and licorice.

•  Frapatto, a red grape, is low in tannins making it a perfect summer red.  If you like strawberries, you’ll enjoy this wine.

•  Nero d’Avola is the island's hallmark grape.  Often compared to Syrah, Nero is a dark red grape that creates bold dark cherry, plum & spice flavors. 

Fantasy Island?  Treasure Island?  Paradise Island?   For wine aficionados, Sicily is all of these and more. 

 

Sicily: Are Ancient Varieties the Future?

                                Wine-Knows has 2 openings on its October trip this fall to Sicily

This is the first of four articles on Sicily, a region of Italy that has been growing grapes for more than 3,000 years.  As an important crossroad on the Mediterranean for centuries, the island was visited by everyone including the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, French and Spaniards.  All brought grapevines with them.  Today, Sicily has the largest number of vineyards in all of Italy.  More importantly, it boasts nearly ninety varieties of wine grapes not grown anywhere else on the planet.

Sicily has some of the greatest Greek temples in Europe

Sicily’s huge number of indigenous grapes are a wine lover’s dream.  No where else in the world can an oenophile experience this plethora of little known grape varietals all located in one region.  The last twenty years has seen a renaissance with these native varieties.  Winemakers now are seeing the value of unique grapes, and are actually moving away from the international varietals (Chardonnay, Cabernet) that were so popular in the 1990’s.

Vineyards are never far from the sea in Sicily

Below are four only-in-Sicily wines that are knocking it out of the park with great quality/price and a host of international awards:

Grillo: 

The white Grillo grape is somewhat like a Sicilian combo of Sauv Blanc and Pinot Grigio.   Grillo can make a seductive wine with aromas of white flowers and citrus.  Depending on the soil in which it is grown (most of Sicily’s soil is volcanic), it can deliver herbal (e.g. chamomile) nuances, all the way to spicy or tropical notes.  Grillo is an actual cross between two Sicilian grapes: Catarratto (see below) and Zibbibo (a member of the aromatic Muscat family of grapes).

Don’t miss the following Grillos which are quality wines at bargain prices: Il Fondo Antico’s Grillo Parlante, or Assuli’s Astolfo.

                              Mt Etna has a tremendous effect on Sicily's grape growing

Carricante:

Carricante is a Sicilian native white grape that has been growing on Mt. Etna for over 1,000 years.  Mt Etna not only has the highest vineyards in Italy but it also offers a terroir of intense sunlight and dramatic volcanic soil.  Carricante thrives here.  In fact, it has become the white signature grape of the Etna DOC (all of these whites must be at least 60% Carricante).   

The grape offers a full range of citrus flavors, as well as herbal notes such as mint and licorice.  Check out Etna Bianco by Planeta, as well as Passopisciaro---both are stunning.

Frapatto:

Frapatto is a refreshing and fruity red wine and it's made from an indigenous red grape of the same name.  In the past, it has been blended with other grapes, however, Frapatto is becoming more and more popular on its own.   A light bodied wine with low tannins, it’s a perfect summer red that can even be enjoyed as an aperitif.   If you like strawberries, then you’ll enjoy Frapatto as this fruit flavor is prevalent, along with subtle floral notes.

Recommended producers?   Look for Occhipenti, COS, and Alessandro di Camporeale.

Nero D’Avola:

Nero D’Avola is the King of all Sicilian grapes----whether they are indigenous or not.  This native varietal used to be grown only in the southeast corner of the island, however, it is now grown in all parts of the island.  The wine changes depending on where the grapes were grown.   In the glass, Nero D’Avola is known for its aromatics as well as its red fruit flavors, and its spicy and floral profile.

Top producers of indigenous grape wines include Cusumano, Feudo Maccari and Feudo Montoni.

 

Viva Sicilia!!!

3 Unknown Italian Wines You Should Know

Vermentino comes from exquisite Liguria

                                

This is the second Blog paying tribute to Italy during its struggle with COVID-19.  Today’s article will discuss three grapes that are popular in Italy but relatively unknown to most Americans.  Because of their obscurity, however, they all are  great values.  Two are red wines and one is white.  Two are from Sicily, the other is from northern Italy.   All of them should definitely be on your radar screen for spring and summer wines as they are quite quaffable during warmer weather and pair well with foods typical of these two seasons.

First, let’s begin with Vermentino, the northern varietal and one of my personal favorites in all of Italy.   This way under-rated grape is grown primarily on the Ligurian coastline south of Genoa (e.g. Cinque Terre, Portofino and Santa Margherita), and the island of Sardinia also produces excellent Vermentino.   Think Sauvignon Blanc without the grass, but with some compelling added elements.  Vermentino offers luscious citrus mixed often with pear and white peach, mineral notes, floral scents, and almond nuances.   

Gnocchi & Vermentino:  a magical pairing in a magical country

Vermentino is magnifico both as an aperitivo as well as a wine to drink with dinner.  Its high acid structure allows it to work well with many foods.  My favorites are scallops in a caper/lemon sauce or plain grilled salmon, but a brined-then-grilled pork chop also works.   The wine also has enough structure to  pair with beloved Italian vegetables such as artichokes and arugula.  

Like Vermentino, Frappato is another bargain due to its undiscovered status in the USA.  Grown mainly in Sicily’s volcanic soils, this varietal offers an exciting opportunity to try a wine you don’t know.   Frapatto’s flavor profile is strawberries but there are also tastes of pomegranates and cloves.

                                    Frapatto is only one of Sicily's many charms

A low to moderate bodied red wine, Frapatto is an ideal choice for the lighter foods of spring and summer due to its muted tannin structure.    This wine is all about freshness, not power.   It’s an ideal red wine aperitif, but can pair equally well with tomato-sauced pastas, as well as grilled chicken or fish.

Nero d’Avola is another red from Italy’s far south, Sicily.   If you love full-bodied reds like Syrah or Cabernet, this varietal is for you.   Nero d’Avola is a powerhouse that delivers big gobs of black cherries with other flavors like licorice and even cigar-box hints.  Expect robust tannins and good levels of acidity.   Because of this, I would not suggest that it be served as an aperitif.

                                         Italy:  the world is praying for you

A bold wine, Nero d’Avola needs matched with equally bold food.   A grilled burger or steak would work beautifully, as would a pasta of Portobello mushrooms.  A pizza topped with spicy pork sausage, funghi porcini, grilled eggplant or roasted red peppers would be my nirvana for my pairing.

     I have a big amore for these three varietals.  I think you will, too.  All are available 

     in the US.

Viva Italia!

Giving Thanks...

This upcoming week reminds us to give thanks for our blessings.   I have many, most of them big blessings like great health and wonderful family/friends. On a less serious note, here’s my list of wines for which I am thankful.

Tropical Sauvignon Blancs

I love Sauv Blancs that offer a tropical profile (usually from in warmer climates).   I don’t find cool climate Sauv Blancs with their green, grassy, herbal notes particularly appealing (but many do).   Merry Edwards is my current fave Cali rendition.

Buttery Chardonnays

Yes, I’m going to buck the trend of those shying away from these wines and put in a plug for a well-crafted Char with a voluptuous, velvety texture and other subtle nuances that stem from Malo-Lactic fermentation.  

Wines with a great finish

While many concentrate on a big fruit forward wine that offers enticing aromas and a great palate, one of the most important things for me is a lengthy finish.

Wines that offer a great bang-for-the-buck

I don’t mind paying some serious money for a killer wine.   That being said, my faves are those that provide killer price/quality ratios.  One of the best producers for quality/price is Joel Gott (Napa Valley) who sources all of his grapes.  His wines are in the 20 bucks range.   Another great producer is Barrel 27 (Paso Robles) which offers off-the-chart-values for their well-crafted wine in the same price range.

Wines with fruits and minerals

I’m falling in love with subtle mineral nuances, especially if they are layered with fruits.  Suggestions:  Assyrtiko (a wine from the Greek island of Santorini), or Nero di Avola (from the Mount Etna region of Sicily).

Obscure varietals

I am so excited to learn about new varietals, especially indigenous varieties that aren’t available anywhere else.  Look for the Torrontes (a white fruit-bomb) from Argentina, or Bierzo (a heavenly red) from Northern Spain.  Be adventurous!

Happy Thanksgiving!

Nero d’Avola—Sicily’s Signature Grape

Nero d’Avola is rarely found outside of Sicily.  Brought by the Greeks to the Mediterranean’s largest island (Sicily), it is named because of its almost black skin (nero means black in Italian).  It is also named after the town of Avola, located close to the town of Siracusa where the Greeks arrived several centuries B.C.

The varietal, which flourishes in Sicily’s hot and arid climate, is the most planted red grape on Sicily.  Nero d’Avola is often compared to Syrah, as the two thrive in similar growing conditions.  Syrah is also an intensely colored grape.  Both Nero and Syrah offer sweet tannins as well as peppery and plum profiles.  Nero, however, is more aromatic and its seductive flavors of raspberries, cherries nearly billow out of the glass.

There are > 100 different micro-climates in Sicily and Nero has its own distinctive features depending on which area it is grown.  In general, the western side of the island produces more intensely concentrated black-fruit wines that can be harsh and muscular.  In Sicily’s central area, the grape tends to produce wines that have more red fruit character.  But, it is in the southeast, that Nero d’Avola reaches its pinnacle where wines are elegant with after tastes of dried fruits.  The Wine-Knows group that will be visiting Sicily this Fall will be staying on a famous wine estate in this prized growing region.

The grape can be vinified as a single varietal, or blended with others.  The most famous blending is with Frappato to make Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s only  DOCG (Italy’s top wine classification).   Here 30-50%  of Nero d’Avola is blended with the lighter weight Frappato.  Nero adds the muscular backbone, while Frappato’s freshness softens.  More recently, Sicilians have even begun to blend Nero with Syrah trying to create a more international-style wine.

What to pair with Nero d’Avola?  Grilled meats and chicken are perfect, however, Sicily’s famous pasta a la Norma (eggplant and tomatoes) is also magnifico.  Another of the island’s most prized culinary items is swordfish.  Especially if it’s grilled, swordfish can be lovely when paired with Nero.