Best of Greece, Umbria, & Tuscany

I’ve just returned home from nearly two months in Europe.  I had three different groups of Wine-Knows in three different venues (Greece, Umbria and Tuscany).  All locations were equally compelling from a wine point of view.  Here’s what floated to the “best of the best” list.   (Please note that one of my criteria for listing in this Blog was that the wines were available in the U.S.)

GREECE: 

                   (Togas on the yacht were mandatory on our last night for women...and men!)

We had some fabulous wines on the 12 person private yacht that Wine-Knows chartered, all carefully chosen from this country’s top producers.  The white that really stood out was Gerivassillou’s Viognier, 2013.  Viognier in Greece?  That’s what I thought but Decanter Magazine (kind of the UK’s version of the Wine Spectator) had given it a coveted Gold Medal, and the Viognier had scored well in numerous blind tastings.  Indeed, this wine was killer.  If you want to help out Greece’s economy, this $40-45 wine is a solid bet sure to please even the most discerning oenophile.

UMBRIA:

(Last night festivities at our Umbrian villa included a glorious outdoor dinner)

One of my favorite white wines in all of Italy is a chardonnay blend made by Antinori’s Castello della Salla.   I have had numerous vintages over the years and scheduled an appointment at the Castle (castello) with the Wine Knows group that had rented a 10,000 square foot Umbrian villa.  While I loved the chardonnay wine (called “Cervaro”), the other wine they served really pulled at the strings of my heart for the quality price ratio.  This white Bordeaux blend (Sauv Blanc and Semillon) was luscious and had great complexity for the price.  Named Conte della Vipera, this one is a steal at $30.

TUSCANY:

      (A casual last night's dinner at our swanky seaside villa to toast our week of wining & dining)

Wine Knows concentrated on the area of the Super-Tuscans, the Maremma district.  Located on Tuscany’s relatively unexplored western coastline, this is an area of renegade winemakers who are breaking all the Italian rules for winemaking and pushing the viticultural envelope by introducing international varieties to a formerly only-Sangiovese area.   Three producers wowed me in the Maremma.  Poggio Tesoro had me at hello when they served their 2012 Mediterra.  A Cab Sauv, Syrah and Merlot blend this one represents an outstanding value at $25.  Podere Sapaio also produced a best in class red called Volpolo.  Their 2012 Volpolo (Cab Sauv, Petite Verdot and Merlot) was chocked full of complexity for an unbelievable price of 25 bucks.   Upping the price point ante, Castello Bolgheri 2011 vintage was a beautifully crafted wine.  At $50-60 per bottle, this Cab Sauv & Franc plus Merlot blend was lovely.

The Wine Knows groups in Greece, Umbria and Tuscany had many gems in our glasses.  For those of you who could not make it, you should consider purchasing these wines...all of which were crowd-pleasers on the tour.  If you were on the trip, open a bottle and reminisce.

My Big Fat Greek Yacht

                                   Princess Karis was always the largest yacht in the harbor

This is Wine-Knows’ last night on a 110 foot yacht that we’ve chartered for a week’s journey through the Greek Islands.  We boarded the Princess Karia II on Turkey’s jaw-dropping “Turquoise Coast.”  An hour or two later we were in Greek waters heading toward our first stop, the island of Kalymnos.

                                                    Non-touristy Kalymnos

Kalymnos is one of Greece’s wealthiest islands, famous for its once thriving sponge-diving industry.  Relatively unknown to tourists (its airport is <10 years old), Kalymnos still fortunately retains its authentic Greek character.  Our first night we spent docked in the island’s lively capital town.  While there were some beautiful yachts in the harbor, the Princess Karia dwarfed all of them.  The next day we sailed around the entire island, dropping anchor in one its pristine bays with a fjord-like inlet. 

Patmos island was next on the itinerary.  Home of one of Greece’s most revered monasteries, it’s no wonder why Tom Hanks and other celebrities have bought property here.  Privacy and unadulterated scenery that takes your breath away…who could ask for more?

                                                      Patmos' old village & Monastery

Our island hopping continued to Paros.  This island is known for its outstanding quality of marble (many buildings in Athens have been made with Paros marble).  But it also known for its wine.  The most famous producer, Moratis, hosted Wine-Knows for a private tasting with an impressive lineup.

                                                 We're the only tourists in sight

Ikaria was also a port of call.  Totally off the beaten track, this island derives its name from Ikarus in Greek mythology who fell into the sea nearby.  Ikaria has received world-wide attention lately as its inhabitants are some of the earth’s oldest and healthiest.  The Mediterranean lifestyle and diet are thought to be contributory factors, as well as the island’s plant-based diet…meat is reserved for only special occasions.

                                           Ikaria:   a stunning recipe for longevity

The Princess Karia, however, is not just a luxury yacht---it has a formidable professionally trained chef.  Meals are served on the upstairs terrace on a beautifully coiffed linen-draped table.  First courses typically are a mélange of 5 or 6 small plates varying from a smoky eggplant spread, a beet salad with wild herbs, roasted peppers, or stuffed uber-fresh tomatoes.  A variety of olives in every color and shape are always on the table…even for breakfast.  Main courses we have enjoyed included succulent local island lamb, grilled prawns, a perfectly executed quick fry of calamari, and dreamy grilled veal chops.  All have been accompanied by a hand-picked assortment of Greece’s award-winning wines that were brought on board special for Wine-Knows.

                                                            

Tomorrow we will disembark the Princess Karia on Santorini.  It will be very difficult to leave this once-in-a-lifetime experience behind, however, our trip’s last three nights will be spent exploring Greece’s most visually spectacular island.  Moreover, we’ll be visiting the island’s top two wine producers to learn about Greece’s most well-regarded white wine.  Grown in volcanic soil on centuries old vines, these whites are nothing short of fabulous.

Twelve travelers…six crew.  I love the numbers...and I love the people.  This is how I would like to sail through life.

Tomatoes Like You’ve Never Had Them Before

It’s the height of tomato season.  For all of you who have home gardens with bumper crops of tomatoes (and by now are tired anything remotely tomato-like), I have the perfect dish.  First, you’ll never know there are even tomatoes in it.  Most importantly, it may become one of your favorite appetizers or side dishes.

I was introduced to “tomato balls” on the island of Santorini where the recipe originated.  Santorini is one of the most beautiful sights in the world.  The island was created 3,500 years ago from one of the world’s largest volcanic eruptions---so powerful that it sent a layer of ash hundreds of meters deep to the island of Crete (>than 100 miles away).  Santorini’s volcanic origin has created the perfect situation for tomatoes.  

The island’s mineral-rich soil produces deliciously complex cherry tomatoes.  Prior to the 1956 earthquake, these very sweet tomatoes played an important part in its economy. There were >10 tomato canning factories on the small island that supplied mainland Greece before the devastating quake destroyed them.  While the island turned its focus from tomatoes to tourism post-quake, its tomatoes are still grown---but now they feed tourists as well as locals.  (The world’s other great tomatoes are also grown in volcanic soil----San Marzano tomatoes from Mt Vesuvius near Naples).   

So what exactly are tomato balls?  They are a yummy fritter.  For all of you naysayers for fried foods, stop!  These are sautéed in olive oil…and you’re bound to fall in love (every one of our clients on the 2013 private yacht trip to the Greek Islands adored them).

Below is the recipe.  Consider pairing them with one of Santorini’s famous bone dry white wines laced with citrus, mineral and smoky nuances (suggest Boutari, Gaia or Sigalas).  BTW…the island’s volcanic soil is also responsible for creating some enticing mineral-laced wines.

INGREDIENTS

• 3 medium tomatoes, chopped (or equivalent of cherry tomatoes)
• ½ red onion finely chopped
• ¼ teaspoon cinnamon
• 3 tablespoons chopped mint
• 1 teaspoons oregano
• 1 tablespoon dill chopped
• 1 cup flour
• ¼ teaspoon baking soda
• Olive Oil for frying
• Salt/Pepper

DIRECTIONS (makes small 20 fritters)

1. Chop the tomatoes (do not remove seeds) and place in a bowl. 

2.  Add onion and all spices/herbs (including salt and pepper).  Mix well.

3.   Add the above mixture to the flour and baking soda.  Mix well but do not over-mix or fritters will be tough.

4. Let the mixture sit for a couple of hours. The mixture should be soft and fall off the spoon when tilted.

5.  Heat the olive oil at medium high heat (make sure at 375 degrees, otherwise it will not be hot enough and the fritters will absorb too much oil).  Drop by heaping teaspoons, flattening out a little after a minute so that the inside will cook.  Turn over after browned and cook til browned on both sides. Total cooking time should be 2-3 minutes.

8. Place on paper towels, then transfer to serving dish and serve immediately.

Nero d’Avola—Sicily’s Signature Grape

Nero d’Avola is rarely found outside of Sicily.  Brought by the Greeks to the Mediterranean’s largest island (Sicily), it is named because of its almost black skin (nero means black in Italian).  It is also named after the town of Avola, located close to the town of Siracusa where the Greeks arrived several centuries B.C.

The varietal, which flourishes in Sicily’s hot and arid climate, is the most planted red grape on Sicily.  Nero d’Avola is often compared to Syrah, as the two thrive in similar growing conditions.  Syrah is also an intensely colored grape.  Both Nero and Syrah offer sweet tannins as well as peppery and plum profiles.  Nero, however, is more aromatic and its seductive flavors of raspberries, cherries nearly billow out of the glass.

There are > 100 different micro-climates in Sicily and Nero has its own distinctive features depending on which area it is grown.  In general, the western side of the island produces more intensely concentrated black-fruit wines that can be harsh and muscular.  In Sicily’s central area, the grape tends to produce wines that have more red fruit character.  But, it is in the southeast, that Nero d’Avola reaches its pinnacle where wines are elegant with after tastes of dried fruits.  The Wine-Knows group that will be visiting Sicily this Fall will be staying on a famous wine estate in this prized growing region.

The grape can be vinified as a single varietal, or blended with others.  The most famous blending is with Frappato to make Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s only  DOCG (Italy’s top wine classification).   Here 30-50%  of Nero d’Avola is blended with the lighter weight Frappato.  Nero adds the muscular backbone, while Frappato’s freshness softens.  More recently, Sicilians have even begun to blend Nero with Syrah trying to create a more international-style wine.

What to pair with Nero d’Avola?  Grilled meats and chicken are perfect, however, Sicily’s famous pasta a la Norma (eggplant and tomatoes) is also magnifico.  Another of the island’s most prized culinary items is swordfish.  Especially if it’s grilled, swordfish can be lovely when paired with Nero.

The Finest Capers are Sicilian

While capers have become an indispensable part of every foodie’s pantry, some may neither know that Sicily makes la crema de la crema of capers, nor how caper berries differ from capers.  For certain, few know of caper leaves.

Most caper lovers are aware that these culinary gems are actually edible flower buds of a bush.  Their wild bushes thrive in the Mediterranean, so it’s no surprise that Morocco, Spain and Turkey produce the bulk of the world’s capers.  While there are many countries from the tropics (where capers are thought to have originated) to Europe that produce the delectable buds,  the ones from Sicily are the most prized among the globe’s most sophisticated chefs.

Sicilian capers are packed in sea salt versus their briny counterparts from other parts of the world that are preserved in an acidic solution.   Packed in salt?  Don’t despair, as soaking them for five minutes in water will rid them of any salty taste.  Whereas a brine overwhelms capers, the Sicilian salt-cured technique produces delicately flavored morsels.  It’s no wonder in Sicily why their versatile, tantalizing capers appear in everything from antipasto, to pasta, and even gelato.

A few other important facts about capers:  less is more. The smaller the caper, the more concentrated the flavor.  Check out  the jar of capers in your frig or cabinet.  The label most likely will say “non-pareil.”  The smallest size of capers are called non-pareil.  Most capers sold in the US are non-pareil.  The general rule of thumb is the smaller the size, the better (and more expensive) the caper.

Another interesting note:  if the caper bud is not picked, it flowers and then produces a fruit called a caper berry.  Caper berries are significantly larger (the size of the average olive) and considerably milder in flavor.  They are also far less acidic.  One of the best salads we had on our recent Wine-Knows private yacht trip through the Greek Islands, was a salad made with caper berries.   The salad’s ripe tomatoes were acidic and the caper berries were the perfect match to downplay the dish's already acid profile.

But, hold on to your hat!  While Sicily may produce the best capers, Greece provides another addition to the caper's culinary prowess.  Greeks use caper leaves in many of their salads and fish dishes.  These tiny leaves of the caper bus, preserved in salt or a brine, are rarely seen outside of Greece so is you do spot a jar buy everyone you can.  They are the most delicate of all the caper bush's gifts and add an interesting, almost lemon-like component.  I would not be the least bit surprised if caper leaves don't become the next hottest gourmet product in the US.

Our Big Fat Greek Wine Faves

The charter of a private luxurious 110 foot yacht didn't hurt, but the recent Wine-Knows trip to the Greek Islands yielded some nice surprises for wine and food.  Below are the stars of the Hellenic show that are available in the USA and are inexpensively to moderately priced:

• Island of Paros:   Produced by Moratis winery, this 2012 white was made from 2 grapes not known outside of Greece.  Great for your next summer Toga party!  Also, Moratis made a knock-out 2009 Paros Red...complex and worth seeking out.

• Island of Santorini: 3 vintners on this stunning island made wines that would have pleased both Socrates & Plato:    

         1.  Boutari:  2007 Grand Reserve Naossa (from Boutari's 

              winery on the mainland) was chocked full of 

              plums & violet with hints of chocolate.  I really liked this 

              wine.  Another one that was very well crafted was their 

              2009 Kotsifali Syrah from the island of Crete, aged 1 year 

              in American Oak.

         2.  Sigalas:  The 2011 single vineyard Kavalieros had a great 

              finish.  The producer's Vin Santo (dessert wine) was an 

              excellent fig bomb.

        3.  Gaia:  If you like Riesling you would love their 2009 

             Thalassitis which evoked the mineral nuances often 

             associated with Riesling.

The next Greek yacht charter (2015) SOLD OUT the first day it was marketed to those who were on this year's waiting list. Stay tuned as we may be doing another one in 2017. 

Greece’s Power-House Olives

                                 

I’m wild about olives, but one of my faves is the big, meaty one from Greece called Kalamata.  Increasingly popular in the US, these flavor-bombs can perk up even the most benign tasting dishes.  Kalamatas are so special that they are protected by Greek law…only olives grown near the village of Kalamata in southern Greece can be given this name.

To ensure quality, Greece has several additional laws related to Kalamata olives.  For example, they cannot be picked green like so many other olives.  Instead, they must be picked at their exact peak of ripeness.  They also must be hand-harvested (versus machine) to avoid bruising. 

While mostly used as an eating olive because of their incredible flavor, oil can also be made from Kalamatas.   As an eating olive, they are split before they are brined or pickled which helps further flavor the olive on its interior, as well as exterior.  Many are packed in olive oil after being brined, further adding to the olive’s complexity.

If you’re one of the lucky 12 persons who has secured a spot on the private yacht charter to the Greek Islands this September, I’ve already seen the chef’s nightly dinner menu and Kalamatas appear in everything from appetizers to salads, and from main dishes to their accompanying vegetables.   If you’re coming to our home for the Bastille Day party weekend in July (those coming going on the harvest tour to France in September), you can bet that there will be some Kalamatas in the tampenade that I’m making.

3 Must-Haves from Greece

In an earlier posting this year, I discussed the great whites of Greece.  The country has an enormous 8,500 mile coastline (including 1,400 islands), so there’s a tendency for a myopic focus on pairing white wines with Greece’s sea-based cuisine.   Truth be known, however, culinary Greece not only heavily leans toward lamb and pork, but the surrounding oceans have long been over-fished making anything from the sea very expensive.    There’s an entire new world of red wines from Greece that warrants exploration.  The good news is that many of the best are exported.

In addition to many indigenous red grapes, Greece is now growing international varieties such as Cabernet  Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese and Syrah.    The country’s winemakers are heading off to study in Bordeaux, Burgundy and Tuscany…and returning to their homeland armed with viticultural degrees from the best universities in Europe.  Bazillons of Euro’s have been invested in the last ten years in Greece’s  wine industry.  All of this makes for an interesting landscape for wine consumers.

Below are my top 3 picks for your next Toga party: 

·        Domaine Gerovassillou, Avaton 2008.   This one, winner of a gold medal in London at the illustrious Decanter Awards, is a luscious blend of three indigenous grapes :  Limnio, Mavroudi and Mavrotragano grown in Greece’s far north, Macedonia.  Imported into the US.   $30

·        Gaia Estate Nemea 2007.  From one of the top producers in Greece, located 90 minutes south of Athens on the Peloponnese.    Made from the indigenous Agiorgitiko (St George), it’s  chocked full of complexity with layers of raspberry, truffles and floral…a long finish completes the super package.  Imported into the US.  $45

·        Domaine Skouras Megas Oenos 2008.  I visited this estate shortly after its jaw-dropping winery was built on the Peloponnese Peninsula south of Athens.   Megas Oenos is one of Greece’s iconic wines, made from 80% Agiorgitiko and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon.    Imported into the US.   $25

 

Greece's Great White

The exquisite island of Santorini is a 45 minute flight from Athens…but it’s a world away in many respects.   While Athens is traffic-clogged, smog-ridden and politically chaotic, Santorini is the antithesis.  If you’ve seen a travel poster or magazine cover with a dazzling photo of a Greek island, chances are it is Santorini.   This little piece of paradise offers mind-boggling vistas of bright blue skies against a jaw-dropping backdrop of white-washed hilltop villages and crystal clear seas.  The only chaos a traveler to Santorini is likely to encounter will be trying to decide which of the island’s superb white wines to order with dinner.

Approximately 3,600 years ago one of the largest volcanic eruptions ever recorded took place in this area and what remains is the island of Santorini.  The island’s rich, volcanic soil produces wonderful dry white wines chocked full of complexity.  Growing conditions are brutal as the island’s arid climate, high mountains and strong winds are particularly inhospitable to agriculture. Vines that survive produce powerful, well-structures wines.

The island’s darling grape variety is a white by the name of Assyrtiko (a SEER tee ko).   While Assyrtiko is grown in other parts of Greece, it is indigenous to Santorini.  It is here at its birthplace that the grape reaches rock-star status in the island’s well-drained, mineral-rich soil.  Santorini Assyrtiko is often referred to as a “white wine with a red wine's character” due to its solid acid structure and full-body.  Because of its acids, it is one of the few white wines than can age beautifully.   The robust acids also make for a perfect pairing with the island’s seafood driven cuisine.   Flavor-wise, Assyrtiko is bone dry and its profile is similar to Riesling---lemon, lime and mineral.

Most people associate the island of Santorini with unparalleled beauty and jet-setting hideaways.  Those in the know, however, understand that it produces a world-class white wine.  Coming on the private Greek yacht  with Wine-Knows this Fall?   After our week at sea, we’ll be staying on Santorini for 3 days and will be visiting the island’s top producers.

 

 

Greece’s Award-Winning Whites

                              The island of Santorini produces Greece's most complex whites 
                                       

In spite of its tremendous viticultural history, Greece remains virtually an unexplored terrain for modern-day wine drinkers.  This is due in part to the former foul tasting retsina wines, along with native Greek varietals which are difficult to pronounce.  Moreover, historically one Europe’s poorest countries, Greece didn’t have the economic infrastructure to build its wine industry until it joined the E.U. in the 1980’s. 

Thanks to financial incentives from the E.U., the Greek wine business has made significant progress.  Impressive new wineries look like they’ve been transplanted from Napa or Bordeaux.  Young Greek winemakers are armed with degrees from the best universities in France or Italy.  Quality initiatives abound including lower yields and improved management of the vineyards.  Most importantly, Greece is now making some spectacular reds and whites.  The most dazzling whites are from the island of Santorini.

Santorini is one of the most breathtaking islands in the Mediterranean.  If you’ve seen a jaw-dropping Greek travel poster involving the sea, or an extraordinary picture of a Greek island in a magazine, chances are the photo was taken on Santorini.  The island is the site of one of the largest volcanic eruptions in recorded history, some 3,500 hundred years ago.  This explosion left behind a well-drained volcanic soil rich in minerals…add abundant sunshine and you have the perfect conditions for creating complex wines.

The island’s star grape is Assyrtiko (a seer tee ko).  Other than small amounts of the varietal that have been transplanted on the mainland, Assyrtiko is only found in Santorini and a few nearby islands.  Some believe the white varietal may be indigenous to Santorini, others think it may have arrived on the island with the Phoenicians.  Stunning dry and sweet wines are made from the grape.

Assyrtiko from Santorini has racked up countless international awards including Wine Spectator scores in the 90’s, a recent gold medal from Decanter (Britain’s equivalent of the Wine Spectator), and another gold medal from Bordeaux’s International Challenge of Wine.  The varietal is the only white grape in the Mediterranean known to achieve ripeness while still maintaining its acid structure.  This not only makes it a dream to drink but the high acidity makes it perfect to pair with food.  In addition, the wine’s subtle aromas of honeysuckle or citrus combined with intense minerality from the volcanic soil add layers of complexity that can charm even the most sophisticated connoisseur.

If you’re one of the lucky 12 persons who were able to snag one of the coveted spots on the private yacht that Wine-Knows has chartered in 2013, we’ll be visiting Santorini.  In the meanwhile, don’t let the hard to pronounce names like Assyrtiko deter you…buy a bottle of one of the following award-winning producers.  As Socrates once stated, “Try it, you’ll like it!”

• Gaia (Decanter Magazine 2012 Gold Medal for dry wine)
• Arghyros (Decanter Magazine 2012 Gold Medal for sweet wine)
• Boutaris (this producer has wineries in several parts of Greece, so make sure it’s from Santorini)

It’s Greek to Me!

I’m on a roll from my recent Society of Wine Educators annual conference.  I haven’t stopped thinking about the best I tasted out of <200 wines…a couple of them were from Greece.   I’ve had a love affair with Greece since my first visit in 1976.  On the Wine-Knows 2005 tour to Greece, however, I fell in love with their wines which are now of a caliber that even Dionysus, the Greek God of wine, would endorse.

The Society’s seminar title, “The New Wines of Greece,” was the perfect moniker.  With mega financing in the 1980’s and 90’s from the European Union, Greece invested a bazillion Euro’s in its wineries.  Greek winemakers are nowadays trained in Bordeaux, Burgundy or the best wine universities in Italy.  Modern wineries in Greece are sleek and sexy enough to be in Napa.  Most importantly, the quality of the country’s wines are now fit for their Greek Gods.

Although Greece makes some killer red wines, the two wines that knocked my socks off at the symposium were both white.  I’ve already ordered a case on the Internet of the 2011 San Gerassimo Robola by the Cephalonia Cooperative. Cephalonia is a small island on Greece’s western coast (the movie Captain Corelli’s Mandolin with Nicolas Cage and Penelope Cruz was filmed in this idyllic spot).  The wine’s peach and apricot flavors were nicely balanced with some interesting mineral notes---no doubt contributed by the island’s volcanic soils.  A beautiful finish completed the $22 package.

My other favorite was a fabulous fruit bomb called Gerovassilious Malagousia.  The 2010 vintage, this wine is made in Greece’s northern area of Macedonia.  Here are my tasting notes from this session: 

• “Color:  deep yellow
• Nose:  ethereal apricot and white peach…almost a Viognier
• Taste:  apricot and yellow peaches with a hint of cinnamon.”

Little did I know until I researched the Malagousia post conference, that Robert Parker is a fan, along with a host of wine critics around the globe.  This is a great little wine for $25.

Not a white fan?  OK, I’ve got a great red producer for you.  While these wines were not showcased at the Society of Wine Educators meeting, I have visited the winery in Greece and I’m a raving fan.  Domaine Skouras is located south of Athens in the Peloponnese…not far from the historical Olympus, Marathon and Spartacus.  Established in 1986 by a Burgundian-trained Greek, George Skouras, it’s a major player in Greece’s quality wine arena.  Skouras is working wonders with local indigenous grapes, as well as blending with international varietals such as cabernet and merlot.

Those lucky 12 persons who have secured spots on next year’s trip to the Greek Islands will hopefully be tasting these wines on board the private yacht that Wine -Knows has chartered.  If you would like to travel to Greece but cannot, these wines are about as close as you can get to this drop-dead beautiful Mediterranean country…a kind of Greece in your glass experience.