Sexy Santorini & its Sensual Wines

      All of the surrounding islands used to be part of Santorini until the cataclysmic volcanic eruption

Santorini arouses all of one's senses...even for this jet-lagged traveler who arrived yesterday.  If you’ve seen a travel poster or magazine cover with a dazzling photo of a Greek island, there’s a very good chance it's from Santorini.  This jet-setting, jaw-dropping, pleasure-bomb-of-an-island is unparalleled for its seductive beauty---think dramatic cliff-scaling white-washed villages, a profusion of bougainvillea in a rainbow of colors, all against a backdrop of crystal clear sapphire seas. 

Santorini, however, isn’t just an erotic paradise.  The island offers one of the most unusual archaeological ruins in the Aegean Sea.  Akrotiri, a perfectly preserved city from 4000 BC, is frozen in time due to a catastrophic volcanic disruption that annihilated the island’s civilization and buried the settlement in volcanic ash for nearly 400 centuries.   Greece’s version of Pompeii, Akrotiri wasn’t discovered until 1860 when earth and ash from Santorini started to be mined for use in building and insulation of the Suez Canal.

The cataclysmic volcanic explosion that obliterated Akrotiri and reshaped the entire island of Santorini (and all of the surrounding islands), left behind wonderfully rich volcanic soil responsible for producing Santorini’s voluptuous white wines.   Santorini has one of the most unique terroirs in the Mediterranean.  Growing conditions are brutal as the island’s arid climate, high mountains, and strong winds are inhospitable to all agriculture.   Vines that are able to survive, produce powerful, fleshy wines.

Vines are grown in forms that conserve water & protect from treacherous winds

The island’s signature grape is a white variety, Assyrtiko (a SEER tee ko).   While grown in a few other parts of Greece, the grape is indigenous to Santorini.  And, it’s in its birthplace that the grape is its most sensual due to Santorini’s mineral-rich, well-drained volcanic soil.   Assyrtiko is often referred to as a white wine with a red wine’s character.  Its solid acid framework means this pleasure-giving wine can also age beautifully.

 

Look no further than Santorini for an unforgettable experience that will titillate all of your senses.

Sensational Santorini

                                         Santorini is like no other spot in the Mediterranean

Winter has now officially descended upon us.  To bring some brightness to these dark December days I am writing a three-part series on my favorite Mediterranean islands.  Today we're traveling to the last island, Santorini.  This Greek jet-setting, jaw-dropping, pleasure-bomb of an island is unparalleled for sheer beauty.  However, Santorini also makes some stunning wines, offers archaeological ruins, and has some mind-blowing walks. 

          Grapes are grown close to the ground in baskets to protect against winds & conserve water 

Santorini has one of the most unique terroirs in the Mediterranean.   The entire island is part of a large volcano system---most of it underwater.  In fact, Santorini is part of a cluster of several surrounding islands that were formed millenniums ago by catastrophic eruptions.  This ring of islands is actually the tops of the underwater volcanoes that have collapsed into the sea, leaving only their tips exposed.     

                                 Gaia hosted WineKnows in their captivating "tasting room" 

Santorini's volcanic soil makes for some terrific wines that ooze minerality.   Summers are hot and there is very little water on the island, so the vines must send their roots deep into the soil to seek moisture.  On this journey penetrating deep into a soil rich in magnesium, iron, calcium and selenium, roots bring back to the plant fascinating flavors for their grapes.  There are several excellent wineries on the island.  My favorite is Gaia (who is even experimenting with aging wines on the ocean floor).  

                           The walk from Fira to Oia is one of the most spectacular on earth

But, there is so much more to Santorini than its wine.  The most compelling thing about the island is its mesmerizing natural beauty.  For walkers, there is no better way to appreciate its magnificence than the walk from Fira (the main town) to Oia.  This hike, which parallels the sea, is arduous and take >2 hours, but its worth every moment (and you can take the bus back to Fira).  Another don't miss is the archaeological ruin at Akrotiri, Santorini's version of Pompeii.  Destroyed by volcanic ash in 1,700 BC, this ancient town is worth a visit.

                    Mextaxy Mas, only a 10 minute cab ride from the main town, feels a world away

For me, another irresistible reason to visit Santorini is to dine at Metaxy Mas.  Located in the center of the island in a small rural village away from the hoards of tourists, this restaurant shouldn't be missed.   Metaxy Mas has it all:  fabulous food, a sexy setting (be certain to reserve for the terrace), and an authentically Greek feel.  The name translates to "between us," and between you and me, Metaxy Mas is a winner.

Breakfast at Anteliz is a special event.

Santorini is replete with a number of hotels and apartments in every price category, however, look no further than Anteliz Suites for a place to stay.  Located in the island's capital town of Fira (but away from the crowds), this spot delivers on every level....from breathtaking panoramic views and superb service (family owned, there is nothing these people can't do can't do for you), to wonderfully-outfitted rooms.  If you can spring for the Anteliz Master Suite, you'll enjoy 1,200 square feet of enchantment including a huge private terrace, however, even their regular hotel rooms are noteworthy.

Cheers to a healthy, sunny and travel-filled 2022!

Rock-Star Minerality

                                          Minerality can add a compelling nuance to wine

“Lick it” the winemaker instructed.  “Lick the rock” he demanded of our bulging eyeballs’ group of Wine-Knows.   We were in a vineyard filled with rocks at the base of the Andes mountains in Argentina and we all giggled…and then complied.  Suddenly it became very quiet as everyone was seemingly trying to process the wonder and the words to explain what they had just tasted.

“Salt” one Wine-Know volunteered.  Another offered a caveat:  “What I taste is the smell of wet earth.”  This prompted another tour participant to chime in that she tasted the “smell of river pebbles.”  A few offered comments about the texture of what they tasted describing it as “pasty” or “thick.”  All appeared to be surprised about what they had just experienced.

Minerality can be a difficult concept, especially for new wine drinkers.  First, most novices are drawn to fruity wines.  Second, the majority of wines are fruit-forward so that subtle nuances of minerality take a back seat.  Last, there isn’t a lot of common language to discuss these mineral-like smells and tastes.  This makes minerality even tricky for some veterans to wrap their arms around.

Where minerality in wine comes from is still unknown.  We don’t really know how it happens although there are many theories.  What is known is that there are certain chemicals that have been isolated in wine that have been shown to promote smells and tastes of minerals.  With flavors of strawberries in a Pinot Noir, or green apples in a Chardonnay we understand that there are not actually berries or apples in these wines.  Thus, it makes sense that certain compounds would give off non-fruit smells and instead offer hints of minerals.

The best recommendation I have for trying to understand minerality in your glass is Assyrtiko wine from the island of Santorini, Greece.  This varietal is all about minerals and there's little competing fruit (you can actually taste the minerality of the island's famous volcano).  Suggested best producers of this enticing white wine include Gaia, Sigalas and Boutari.

Rock-out in 2018!

My Big Fat Greek Yacht

                                   Princess Karis was always the largest yacht in the harbor

This is Wine-Knows’ last night on a 110 foot yacht that we’ve chartered for a week’s journey through the Greek Islands.  We boarded the Princess Karia II on Turkey’s jaw-dropping “Turquoise Coast.”  An hour or two later we were in Greek waters heading toward our first stop, the island of Kalymnos.

                                                    Non-touristy Kalymnos

Kalymnos is one of Greece’s wealthiest islands, famous for its once thriving sponge-diving industry.  Relatively unknown to tourists (its airport is <10 years old), Kalymnos still fortunately retains its authentic Greek character.  Our first night we spent docked in the island’s lively capital town.  While there were some beautiful yachts in the harbor, the Princess Karia dwarfed all of them.  The next day we sailed around the entire island, dropping anchor in one its pristine bays with a fjord-like inlet. 

Patmos island was next on the itinerary.  Home of one of Greece’s most revered monasteries, it’s no wonder why Tom Hanks and other celebrities have bought property here.  Privacy and unadulterated scenery that takes your breath away…who could ask for more?

                                                      Patmos' old village & Monastery

Our island hopping continued to Paros.  This island is known for its outstanding quality of marble (many buildings in Athens have been made with Paros marble).  But it also known for its wine.  The most famous producer, Moratis, hosted Wine-Knows for a private tasting with an impressive lineup.

                                                 We're the only tourists in sight

Ikaria was also a port of call.  Totally off the beaten track, this island derives its name from Ikarus in Greek mythology who fell into the sea nearby.  Ikaria has received world-wide attention lately as its inhabitants are some of the earth’s oldest and healthiest.  The Mediterranean lifestyle and diet are thought to be contributory factors, as well as the island’s plant-based diet…meat is reserved for only special occasions.

                                           Ikaria:   a stunning recipe for longevity

The Princess Karia, however, is not just a luxury yacht---it has a formidable professionally trained chef.  Meals are served on the upstairs terrace on a beautifully coiffed linen-draped table.  First courses typically are a mélange of 5 or 6 small plates varying from a smoky eggplant spread, a beet salad with wild herbs, roasted peppers, or stuffed uber-fresh tomatoes.  A variety of olives in every color and shape are always on the table…even for breakfast.  Main courses we have enjoyed included succulent local island lamb, grilled prawns, a perfectly executed quick fry of calamari, and dreamy grilled veal chops.  All have been accompanied by a hand-picked assortment of Greece’s award-winning wines that were brought on board special for Wine-Knows.

                                                            

Tomorrow we will disembark the Princess Karia on Santorini.  It will be very difficult to leave this once-in-a-lifetime experience behind, however, our trip’s last three nights will be spent exploring Greece’s most visually spectacular island.  Moreover, we’ll be visiting the island’s top two wine producers to learn about Greece’s most well-regarded white wine.  Grown in volcanic soil on centuries old vines, these whites are nothing short of fabulous.

Twelve travelers…six crew.  I love the numbers...and I love the people.  This is how I would like to sail through life.

Tomatoes Like You’ve Never Had Them Before

It’s the height of tomato season.  For all of you who have home gardens with bumper crops of tomatoes (and by now are tired anything remotely tomato-like), I have the perfect dish.  First, you’ll never know there are even tomatoes in it.  Most importantly, it may become one of your favorite appetizers or side dishes.

I was introduced to “tomato balls” on the island of Santorini where the recipe originated.  Santorini is one of the most beautiful sights in the world.  The island was created 3,500 years ago from one of the world’s largest volcanic eruptions---so powerful that it sent a layer of ash hundreds of meters deep to the island of Crete (>than 100 miles away).  Santorini’s volcanic origin has created the perfect situation for tomatoes.  

The island’s mineral-rich soil produces deliciously complex cherry tomatoes.  Prior to the 1956 earthquake, these very sweet tomatoes played an important part in its economy. There were >10 tomato canning factories on the small island that supplied mainland Greece before the devastating quake destroyed them.  While the island turned its focus from tomatoes to tourism post-quake, its tomatoes are still grown---but now they feed tourists as well as locals.  (The world’s other great tomatoes are also grown in volcanic soil----San Marzano tomatoes from Mt Vesuvius near Naples).   

So what exactly are tomato balls?  They are a yummy fritter.  For all of you naysayers for fried foods, stop!  These are sautéed in olive oil…and you’re bound to fall in love (every one of our clients on the 2013 private yacht trip to the Greek Islands adored them).

Below is the recipe.  Consider pairing them with one of Santorini’s famous bone dry white wines laced with citrus, mineral and smoky nuances (suggest Boutari, Gaia or Sigalas).  BTW…the island’s volcanic soil is also responsible for creating some enticing mineral-laced wines.

INGREDIENTS

• 3 medium tomatoes, chopped (or equivalent of cherry tomatoes)
• ½ red onion finely chopped
• ¼ teaspoon cinnamon
• 3 tablespoons chopped mint
• 1 teaspoons oregano
• 1 tablespoon dill chopped
• 1 cup flour
• ¼ teaspoon baking soda
• Olive Oil for frying
• Salt/Pepper

DIRECTIONS (makes small 20 fritters)

1. Chop the tomatoes (do not remove seeds) and place in a bowl. 

2.  Add onion and all spices/herbs (including salt and pepper).  Mix well.

3.   Add the above mixture to the flour and baking soda.  Mix well but do not over-mix or fritters will be tough.

4. Let the mixture sit for a couple of hours. The mixture should be soft and fall off the spoon when tilted.

5.  Heat the olive oil at medium high heat (make sure at 375 degrees, otherwise it will not be hot enough and the fritters will absorb too much oil).  Drop by heaping teaspoons, flattening out a little after a minute so that the inside will cook.  Turn over after browned and cook til browned on both sides. Total cooking time should be 2-3 minutes.

8. Place on paper towels, then transfer to serving dish and serve immediately.

Our Big Fat Greek Wine Faves

The charter of a private luxurious 110 foot yacht didn't hurt, but the recent Wine-Knows trip to the Greek Islands yielded some nice surprises for wine and food.  Below are the stars of the Hellenic show that are available in the USA and are inexpensively to moderately priced:

• Island of Paros:   Produced by Moratis winery, this 2012 white was made from 2 grapes not known outside of Greece.  Great for your next summer Toga party!  Also, Moratis made a knock-out 2009 Paros Red...complex and worth seeking out.

• Island of Santorini: 3 vintners on this stunning island made wines that would have pleased both Socrates & Plato:    

         1.  Boutari:  2007 Grand Reserve Naossa (from Boutari's 

              winery on the mainland) was chocked full of 

              plums & violet with hints of chocolate.  I really liked this 

              wine.  Another one that was very well crafted was their 

              2009 Kotsifali Syrah from the island of Crete, aged 1 year 

              in American Oak.

         2.  Sigalas:  The 2011 single vineyard Kavalieros had a great 

              finish.  The producer's Vin Santo (dessert wine) was an 

              excellent fig bomb.

        3.  Gaia:  If you like Riesling you would love their 2009 

             Thalassitis which evoked the mineral nuances often 

             associated with Riesling.

The next Greek yacht charter (2015) SOLD OUT the first day it was marketed to those who were on this year's waiting list. Stay tuned as we may be doing another one in 2017. 

Greece's Great White

The exquisite island of Santorini is a 45 minute flight from Athens…but it’s a world away in many respects.   While Athens is traffic-clogged, smog-ridden and politically chaotic, Santorini is the antithesis.  If you’ve seen a travel poster or magazine cover with a dazzling photo of a Greek island, chances are it is Santorini.   This little piece of paradise offers mind-boggling vistas of bright blue skies against a jaw-dropping backdrop of white-washed hilltop villages and crystal clear seas.  The only chaos a traveler to Santorini is likely to encounter will be trying to decide which of the island’s superb white wines to order with dinner.

Approximately 3,600 years ago one of the largest volcanic eruptions ever recorded took place in this area and what remains is the island of Santorini.  The island’s rich, volcanic soil produces wonderful dry white wines chocked full of complexity.  Growing conditions are brutal as the island’s arid climate, high mountains and strong winds are particularly inhospitable to agriculture. Vines that survive produce powerful, well-structures wines.

The island’s darling grape variety is a white by the name of Assyrtiko (a SEER tee ko).   While Assyrtiko is grown in other parts of Greece, it is indigenous to Santorini.  It is here at its birthplace that the grape reaches rock-star status in the island’s well-drained, mineral-rich soil.  Santorini Assyrtiko is often referred to as a “white wine with a red wine's character” due to its solid acid structure and full-body.  Because of its acids, it is one of the few white wines than can age beautifully.   The robust acids also make for a perfect pairing with the island’s seafood driven cuisine.   Flavor-wise, Assyrtiko is bone dry and its profile is similar to Riesling---lemon, lime and mineral.

Most people associate the island of Santorini with unparalleled beauty and jet-setting hideaways.  Those in the know, however, understand that it produces a world-class white wine.  Coming on the private Greek yacht  with Wine-Knows this Fall?   After our week at sea, we’ll be staying on Santorini for 3 days and will be visiting the island’s top producers.

 

 

Greece’s Award-Winning Whites

                              The island of Santorini produces Greece's most complex whites 
                                       

In spite of its tremendous viticultural history, Greece remains virtually an unexplored terrain for modern-day wine drinkers.  This is due in part to the former foul tasting retsina wines, along with native Greek varietals which are difficult to pronounce.  Moreover, historically one Europe’s poorest countries, Greece didn’t have the economic infrastructure to build its wine industry until it joined the E.U. in the 1980’s. 

Thanks to financial incentives from the E.U., the Greek wine business has made significant progress.  Impressive new wineries look like they’ve been transplanted from Napa or Bordeaux.  Young Greek winemakers are armed with degrees from the best universities in France or Italy.  Quality initiatives abound including lower yields and improved management of the vineyards.  Most importantly, Greece is now making some spectacular reds and whites.  The most dazzling whites are from the island of Santorini.

Santorini is one of the most breathtaking islands in the Mediterranean.  If you’ve seen a jaw-dropping Greek travel poster involving the sea, or an extraordinary picture of a Greek island in a magazine, chances are the photo was taken on Santorini.  The island is the site of one of the largest volcanic eruptions in recorded history, some 3,500 hundred years ago.  This explosion left behind a well-drained volcanic soil rich in minerals…add abundant sunshine and you have the perfect conditions for creating complex wines.

The island’s star grape is Assyrtiko (a seer tee ko).  Other than small amounts of the varietal that have been transplanted on the mainland, Assyrtiko is only found in Santorini and a few nearby islands.  Some believe the white varietal may be indigenous to Santorini, others think it may have arrived on the island with the Phoenicians.  Stunning dry and sweet wines are made from the grape.

Assyrtiko from Santorini has racked up countless international awards including Wine Spectator scores in the 90’s, a recent gold medal from Decanter (Britain’s equivalent of the Wine Spectator), and another gold medal from Bordeaux’s International Challenge of Wine.  The varietal is the only white grape in the Mediterranean known to achieve ripeness while still maintaining its acid structure.  This not only makes it a dream to drink but the high acidity makes it perfect to pair with food.  In addition, the wine’s subtle aromas of honeysuckle or citrus combined with intense minerality from the volcanic soil add layers of complexity that can charm even the most sophisticated connoisseur.

If you’re one of the lucky 12 persons who were able to snag one of the coveted spots on the private yacht that Wine-Knows has chartered in 2013, we’ll be visiting Santorini.  In the meanwhile, don’t let the hard to pronounce names like Assyrtiko deter you…buy a bottle of one of the following award-winning producers.  As Socrates once stated, “Try it, you’ll like it!”

• Gaia (Decanter Magazine 2012 Gold Medal for dry wine)
• Arghyros (Decanter Magazine 2012 Gold Medal for sweet wine)
• Boutaris (this producer has wineries in several parts of Greece, so make sure it’s from Santorini)