Minerality can add a compelling nuance to wine
“Lick it” the winemaker instructed. “Lick the rock” he demanded of our bulging
eyeballs’ group of Wine-Knows. We were in
a vineyard filled with rocks at the base of the Andes mountains in Argentina and we all giggled…and
then complied. Suddenly it became very
quiet as everyone was seemingly trying to process the wonder and the words to
explain what they had just tasted.
“Salt” one Wine-Know volunteered. Another offered a caveat: “What I taste is the smell of wet earth.” This
prompted another tour participant to chime in that she tasted the “smell of
river pebbles.” A few offered comments
about the texture of what they tasted describing it as “pasty” or “thick.” All appeared to be surprised about what they
had just experienced.
Minerality can be a difficult concept, especially for
new wine drinkers. First, most novices
are drawn to fruity wines. Second, the
majority of wines are fruit-forward so that subtle nuances of minerality take a
back seat. Last, there isn’t a lot of
common language to discuss these mineral-like smells and tastes. This makes minerality even tricky for some veterans
to wrap their arms around.
Where minerality in wine comes from is still
unknown. We don’t really know how it
happens although there are many theories.
What is known is that there are certain chemicals that have been
isolated in wine that have been shown to promote smells and tastes of minerals.
With flavors of strawberries in a Pinot
Noir, or green apples in a Chardonnay we understand that there are not actually
berries or apples in these wines. Thus,
it makes sense that certain compounds would give off non-fruit smells and instead
offer hints of minerals.
The best recommendation I have for trying to
understand minerality in your glass is Assyrtiko wine from the island of
Santorini, Greece. This varietal is all about minerals and there's little competing fruit (you can actually taste the minerality of the island's famous volcano). Suggested best producers of this enticing
white wine include Gaia, Sigalas and Boutari.
Rock-out in 2018!
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