Visiting Hungary’s wine regions offers a tasting trip
around a new Old World.
State-of-the-art wineries right out of Napa Valley and
winemakers armed with
viticultural degrees from top international
universities are juxtaposed with ancient
cellars and winemaking traditions that remind us of
this country’s remarkably rich
wine heritage.
Like most countries in Europe, Hungary’s history with wine
grapes dates back to
the Romans. In
the 11th century Hungary was a key player in wine production.
During the Ottoman occupation of the 16th and
17th century, however, this all
changed as alcohol was forbidden due to tenants of the
Muslim religion. Tokaj was
the exception as its wine production thrived thanks
to it being an independent
state of Transylvania.
In the 1700’s Hungary once again became a formidable force in the
wine-making world. The course of wine history changed for all of Europe in
the late 1800’s when a bug called Phylloxera destroyed nearly every vineyard on
the continent. (Interestingly, it was, a Hungarian who played a major role in
developing a Phylloxera-
resistant root stock that got the wine industry moving
again). Post World War II
Communism was the final nail in the coffin. A once flourishing wine industry was
relegated to producing bulk wine for the masses.
Today, Hungary is the 17th largest producer
of wine in the world. To put its
regional size in perspective, it is larger in wine
production than neighboring
Austria, but smaller than its neighbors Bulgaria and
Romania. Currently that are
>150,000 acres under vine spread across the Hungary’s
22 wine regions and sub-
regions.
Hungary joined the EU in 2004. Financing from the EU has catapulted Hungary
from the downward spiral of Communism into a new world
of opportunity.
Hungary has stepped up to the plate, especially the
Tokaj region. One of the few
in the wine world to reinvent itself, Tokaj seized the
opportunity to turn from sweet
wines to dry.
Old World Tokaj is a Cinderella story.
Many of Tokaj’s wines are
now stunning dry whites. They are using the same Old World grape
(Furmint) but
vinifying them bone dry. Furmint is becoming the new darling varietal of
many
Sommeliers.
But, Hungary is not a one trick pony. The country is making some gorgeous red
wines. In fact,
one of Hungary’s reds beat out one of the most famous Old World
chateau in all of Bordeaux in a blind tasting.
If you’re looking for something new to try in the New
Year, but appreciate well-
crafted Old World wines, put Hungary on your 2018
list. The country is emerging
as an exciting player on the international wine
scene. Highly recommend one of
the following producers that this autumn Wine-Knows will be visiting (sorry but this tour is sold out with a waiting list).
Dry White (alpha order):
Hetzolo
Kikelet
Svent Tamás
Red (alpha
order):
Attila Gere
Bock
No comments:
Post a Comment