Tuscan Whites---an Oxymoron?

                            Vernaccia vineyards surround the charming town of San Gimigano

Tuscany is really red wine country (Brunello di Montalcino and Chianti, are both made from the area’s signature Sangiovese grape).  But, those in the know, understand that there are now two white varietals from Tuscany that are responsible for some lovely white wines. Vernaccia di San Gimignano (grown around the medieval walled town of San Gimignano, a popular stop for tourists) and Vermentino (from Tuscany’s coastal area) are producing two wines that command respect.

Vernaccia di San Gimignano was the first Italian white grape to be granted DOC status (1966), which means only grapes grown in a demarcated area around San Gimignano) can use this on their label.  In 1993 the Italian government upped the ante by awarding these wines the special DOCG status (the “G” supposedly guarantees the quality as DOCG wines are tasted by a panel).

Vernaccia from the land surrounding the village of San Gimignano produces a medium-bodied white.  The wine has a characteristic flavor suggesting almonds.  It has good acidity which means it is quite refreshing…even on Tuscany’s hot summer days.  In addition, it works well with vegetables, pasta and fish.   Best producers are Il Colombaio di Chiara and Fontaleone.

Vermentino is one of my favorite summer wines.  The varietal is grown along the Tuscan coastline (and neighboring Italian Riviera, as well as the island of Sandinia where the varietal reaches rock-star status).  In these areas near the sea  temperatures are more moderate than the inland area where Vernaccia di San Gimignano is grown.  The wine is very aromatic, a combination of floral and fruit notes.  Whenever we serve Vermentino (which is frequently as an aperitivo during San Diego’s nearly year-around warm weather) everyone raves and wants to know what it is.  My favorite Tuscan Vermentino is made by Poggio al Tesoro.  Wine-Knows has an appointment scheduled with this producer in the June trip when we have leased a 10,000 square foot villa on Tuscany’s coastline.

Sangiovese—Italy’s Most Planted Grape

        Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile de Montepulciano & Chianti all come from Sangiovese

                              

If you’ve been to Italy and sampled their wine, there’s a very good chance it was a Sangiovese.  If you’ve been to Tuscany you’ve definitely had Sangiovese…Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile de Montepulciano, Morellino di Scansano are all Sangiovese.   Surprised?  It’s no wonder as Italy’s naming of wines is often difficult for many non-Italians to grasp.

Sangiovese is the most planted red grape in all of Italy…considering the huge amount of vines and the number of grape varieties that’s saying something.  The largest percentage of Sangiovese is in Central Italy (Tuscany and Umbria).  But, the grape is planted in nearly every nook and cranny of Italy, including Sicily in the far south.

Considered the work-horse varietal of Italy, Sangiovese produces everything from table wine in straw flasks to premium wines that sell for hundreds of Euro’s a bottle.  In addition to red, it is used to make rosé, as well as sparkling wines.  Vin Santo, Italy’s hallmark dessert wine, is also vinified from Sangiovese.

Sangiovese is not as aromatic as other reds such as Cabernet, Syrah or Pinot Noir.  For flavor profile, think red fruit.  A young Sangiovese offers flavors of strawberries, often with a hint of spice.  As the wine ages, it readily takes on darker red fruit flavors such as plum and tart cherry.   Herbal notes can be present, as can floral notes such as dried roses.  Sangiovese is fairly acidic with a good amount of tannins, hence, is typically aged in neutral barrels so to not intensify the already tannic structure.

Coming with us on the 2015 villa rental trip to Tuscany and Umbria?  We’ll be sampling several versions of Sangiovese, including the increasingly popular Super-Tuscans (international varieties that are often mixed with Tuscany’s Sangiovese).  If you don’t have a seat on this trip, it is sold out with a waiting list…but don’t wait to try Sangiovese.

The Tuscan Coast---a Sea of Exciting Wines

We’ve just come from the Maremma district of Tuscany (on the Mediterranean) where we finalized all of the villa rental details for the Wine-Knows group coming here next June.  In 2001 my husband and I put in a full price offer on a property in this area, however, it was declined…they wanted more than asking.  We walked away from the deal, but I’ve never forgotten how taken I was with this unknown corner of Tuscany.  Or, at least in 2001, it wasn’t on an American’s radar.  Things have changed.

It seems like every wine-centric magazine I pick up now has a picture of the Maremma on its cover.  Italy’s most prominent mover-and-shaker winemakers have descended on the Maremma in the last 15 years and purchased choice vineyards.  Bloggers in-the-know extoll the virtues of the area.  George Clooney vacationed here recently in a rented villa.  The Maremma is now the “in place” to visit in Tuscany, away from the interior’s maddening crowds who have changed the landscape of the Tuscany many of us used to adore.

There’s a reason that the wine world can’t get enough of the Maremma.  It’s producing some of the most sensational red wines in Italy.  The coastline is home not only to Sangiovese-based wines, but also to Cabernets (Sauvignon and Franc) that are blended with Merlot.  The Wine Spectator earlier this year featured an article on the globe’s  “100 Outstanding Values.”  Garnering a walloping 92 points, Ceralti’s $16 wine from the Maremma made the list as the world’s 4^th best red value.

If you’re looking for high-end wines, the Maremma’s got plenty of those, too. There are many producers whose wines command several hundreds of dollars a bottle.  Ca’Marcanda (owned by Angelo Gaya, Italy’s most renowned winemaker) produces some killers, as does Ornellaia, Sassacia and San Guido.  Oh, yes…did I mention that the Maremma is home to the Super-Tuscan movement?

Those who are coming with us in June 2015, we are leasing a 6,500 square villa on the sea.  We have 2 spots remaining.  Join us and come learn about the thrilling new wines of the Maremma.

Under the Tuscan Grapevine: Sangiovese

Sangiovese, the most planted red grape in Italy, is the defining grape of Tuscany. While the varietal is concentrated mostly in central Italy, it is planted in nearly 60 of Italy’s wine regions.  It's in Tuscany, however, the grape reaches rock-star status producing some of the country’s most distinguished, complex and age-worthy wines such as Brunello di Montalcino or Vino Nobile de Montalcino.  But, Sangiovese also creates easy-drinking wines at the moderate end of the quality and price spectrum…a Chianti Classico, Rosso di Montalcino or a Morellino di Scansano---all of which are 100% Sangiovese. 

Known for its naturally high acidity, the Sangiovese grape offers moderate to high tannins.  Sangiovese wines have the potential to age because of their tannin structure.  Tuscany’s wines with the longest aging potential is Brunello di Montalcino that can age for upwards of 20 years in ideal vintages.  The potentially lighter Vino Nobile di Montepulciano tend to have a shorter life span of 5-10 years.  The aging possibility of Chianti is highly variable, depending greatly upon the producer, vintage and the sub-zone of Tuscany in which it is produced.

Flavors are dependent upon the terroir in which the varietal is grown as well as the winemaker’s touch.  Traditionally, Tuscany’s profile for Sangiovese is one of sour cherries and herbal nuances.  The modern version, however, is more plum-like with notes of cinnamon and vanilla (both of which come from aging in newer oak).  The younger, drink-now-style boasts a strawberry profile.

One can’t discuss Sangiovese without addressing how the varietal pairs with food.  The wine’s high acidity and moderate alcohol make it quite food-friendly.  Tomato-based sauces in pasta and pizzas are a classical pairing.  Herb seasonings such as basil, thyme and sage play off the herbal notes in the grapes.  Sangiovese that has been aged in new oak works well with grilled or smoked meats and poultry.  The wine also pairs nicely with aged cheeses.

In short, Sangiovese is the work horse grape of Tuscany.  It is used to produce everything from red still wine to rosé, sparkling and the region’s iconic sweet wine by the name of Vin Santo.  Its price point ranges from $15 - $150, so there’s something for everyone from serious oenophiles to novices.  Here’s a list of my faves, listed in order of descending price:

• Ca' Marcanda (Gaya's Tuscan baby from the coastal Maremma) $85
• Poliziano Asinone (Vino Nobile di Montepuliano) $65
• Poggio Nardone (Brunello di Montalcino)  $50
• Tua Rita Rosso dei Notri  $25 BEST BUY
• Pupille Morellino di Scansano (from the Maremma)  $20

3 Must-Haves from Greece

In an earlier posting this year, I discussed the great whites of Greece.  The country has an enormous 8,500 mile coastline (including 1,400 islands), so there’s a tendency for a myopic focus on pairing white wines with Greece’s sea-based cuisine.   Truth be known, however, culinary Greece not only heavily leans toward lamb and pork, but the surrounding oceans have long been over-fished making anything from the sea very expensive.    There’s an entire new world of red wines from Greece that warrants exploration.  The good news is that many of the best are exported.

In addition to many indigenous red grapes, Greece is now growing international varieties such as Cabernet  Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese and Syrah.    The country’s winemakers are heading off to study in Bordeaux, Burgundy and Tuscany…and returning to their homeland armed with viticultural degrees from the best universities in Europe.  Bazillons of Euro’s have been invested in the last ten years in Greece’s  wine industry.  All of this makes for an interesting landscape for wine consumers.

Below are my top 3 picks for your next Toga party: 

·        Domaine Gerovassillou, Avaton 2008.   This one, winner of a gold medal in London at the illustrious Decanter Awards, is a luscious blend of three indigenous grapes :  Limnio, Mavroudi and Mavrotragano grown in Greece’s far north, Macedonia.  Imported into the US.   $30

·        Gaia Estate Nemea 2007.  From one of the top producers in Greece, located 90 minutes south of Athens on the Peloponnese.    Made from the indigenous Agiorgitiko (St George), it’s  chocked full of complexity with layers of raspberry, truffles and floral…a long finish completes the super package.  Imported into the US.  $45

·        Domaine Skouras Megas Oenos 2008.  I visited this estate shortly after its jaw-dropping winery was built on the Peloponnese Peninsula south of Athens.   Megas Oenos is one of Greece’s iconic wines, made from 80% Agiorgitiko and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon.    Imported into the US.   $25