Cassis

    View of Cassis's harbor from my apartment

Many folks know Cassis…the black currant liqueur that is used to make a Kir (or a Kir Royale when made with sparkling wine).  A few may even know the tony village on the French Riviera by the name of Cassis.   Those worldly gourmands who know both the drink and the seaside town often think that the liqueur is so named because it comes from the village of Cassis.  Wrong.

Crème de Cassis is actually made in Burgundy, 300 miles north.  As of 2015, this black-colored liqueur is protected by France’s geographical laws.  Cassis is now officially referred to as Crème de Cassis de Bourgogne (Burgundy).  The new designation guarantees the Burgundian origin of the fruit, as well as the minimum quantity of berries that is required.   Like France’s other food and wine laws, it guarantees the authenticity of what’s in the bottle so that the consumer knows that the product is not a knock-off from another part of France, or Europe, or for that matter, China.

Now, back to the village of Cassis where I arrived today.  If you’re looking for a heavenly spot to recover from jet lag, look no further.  But, Cassis beckons for many reasons.  Cassis is not on the radar screen for most Americans.  Reason one.   Next, Marseille’s airport is only 30 miles away making it an easy-to-get-to first stop.  Reason two.  Another attractive feature is that Cassis is small and quaint….without the crowds and noisy discos of St Tropez or Cannes.  Reason three.  But one of the most compelling motives to visit, is for its breathtaking beauty. A big reason four.

                                          The calanques can be reached by foot or boat.

Cassis is drop-dead gorgeous.  A large part of its magnificence is due to the “calanques.”  It is thought that the calanques were formed by ancient streams that dried up a millennium or two ago. Today, the remnants are narrow, fjord-like inlets carved into steep white limestone cliffs, France’s highest sea cliffs.  While there are many organized boat tours to view these calanques, I prefer to go by foot for several reasons.  Most importantly, boats are not allowed to enter the calanques so boat visitors can only appreciate them from afar.   While walking to the farthest calanque requires a good hour from the village (and some parts of the trail are a little difficult), one can opt for a 20 minute walk from Cassis to the first calanque.  As there are spectacular panoramas around every bend, walkers to any of the calanques should allow extra time to take photos and soak up the splendor.

Tonight I’m celebrating my week’s stay in this sweet fishing village by ordering a Kir Royale----Cassis in Cassis!

Sante.

The Tuscan Coast---a Sea of Exciting Wines

We’ve just come from the Maremma district of Tuscany (on the Mediterranean) where we finalized all of the villa rental details for the Wine-Knows group coming here next June.  In 2001 my husband and I put in a full price offer on a property in this area, however, it was declined…they wanted more than asking.  We walked away from the deal, but I’ve never forgotten how taken I was with this unknown corner of Tuscany.  Or, at least in 2001, it wasn’t on an American’s radar.  Things have changed.

It seems like every wine-centric magazine I pick up now has a picture of the Maremma on its cover.  Italy’s most prominent mover-and-shaker winemakers have descended on the Maremma in the last 15 years and purchased choice vineyards.  Bloggers in-the-know extoll the virtues of the area.  George Clooney vacationed here recently in a rented villa.  The Maremma is now the “in place” to visit in Tuscany, away from the interior’s maddening crowds who have changed the landscape of the Tuscany many of us used to adore.

There’s a reason that the wine world can’t get enough of the Maremma.  It’s producing some of the most sensational red wines in Italy.  The coastline is home not only to Sangiovese-based wines, but also to Cabernets (Sauvignon and Franc) that are blended with Merlot.  The Wine Spectator earlier this year featured an article on the globe’s  “100 Outstanding Values.”  Garnering a walloping 92 points, Ceralti’s $16 wine from the Maremma made the list as the world’s 4^th best red value.

If you’re looking for high-end wines, the Maremma’s got plenty of those, too. There are many producers whose wines command several hundreds of dollars a bottle.  Ca’Marcanda (owned by Angelo Gaya, Italy’s most renowned winemaker) produces some killers, as does Ornellaia, Sassacia and San Guido.  Oh, yes…did I mention that the Maremma is home to the Super-Tuscan movement?

Those who are coming with us in June 2015, we are leasing a 6,500 square villa on the sea.  We have 2 spots remaining.  Join us and come learn about the thrilling new wines of the Maremma.

The Mediterranean’s Most Beautiful Walk?

Yeah, yeah I know this is a Blog about food and wine.  But, for those of us who like to eat and drink well and try to keep the pounds off, it only stands to reason that I include ways to do just that.  This 3 mile walk along a jaw-dropping part of Italy’s coastline is the perfect way to work off a plate of pasta or a gelato.

The route parallels the sea between Santa Margherita and Portofino.  You can start in either location, however, I prefer to begin in Santa Margherita for many reasons.  If you head out from Santa Margherita in the morning, the sun is behind you (start in Portofino, and you’ll be blinded by the sun the entire way).   Another bonus for beginning in Santa Margherita are the views of Portofino that you encounter as you approach this enchanting spot.  As the sea-hugging road snakes around inlets, at each bend there are picture-postcard-perfect vistas of the tony little village whose harbor is filled with mega-Euro yachts.  Starting in Santa Margherita, also allows you time to recupe from the walk at one of Portofino’s sidewalk cafes---a great place to people watch.

Along the way you’ll swoon over the drop-dead gorgeous villas.  This is some of the world’s most expensive real estate, but don’t expect flamboyant---it’s the old world money of quiet elegance.  Most villas are very secluded from the road, however, can be viewed along the twisting road at vantage points that show their multi-level backsides cascading down to the glorious sea.   Many have unobstructed bazillion Euro views of Portofino, including its castle, lighthouse, and the pastel array of homes that line the crescent shaped harbor.  Oh, yes, and front row seats for the sunset.

One of my fave spots on the walk is the captivating little cove of

Paraggi.  Just a half of mile from Portofino, it’s a world away.  This small hamlet is a truly Italian spot, without the hype of its world-famous nearby sister.  In some ways, I prefer it to Portofino.

Once you’ve replenished your fluids, do not leave Portofino without a 15 minute uphill walk to its castle (follow the signs for the lighthouse).  Most of the postcards of Portofino are taken from the back of the “castello.”

Coming on our Truffle Tour this fall?  You’ll have the opportunity to do this walk.  Don’t want to walk?  No problem as we’ll visit both Santa Margherita and Portofino.