Sicilian Wines are Summer in a Glass

   Two seats are available on Wine-Knows' October trip to Sicily

Summer is getting into full swing and there may be no better way to celebrate than with a glass of Sicilian wine.  This is the last article of the month’s series on Sicily.  In the earlier posts you’ve learned that Sicily has nearly 90 native grapes….wines that you’ll not see anywhere else in the world.  This article, however, features grapes that were not birthed on the island but all have a Mediterranean heritage. 

                                                             The island's charms are many

Catarratto

The Queen of Sicilian grapes, Catarratto is grown all over the island (it represents nearly one-third of all wine grapes planted).  It is the mother of the wonderful native Grillo grape which was discussed last week.  One sip of Catarratto and you’ll see their resemblance:  lemon zest, intense oranges & fragrant citrus blossoms.   But, that’s only part of Catarratto’s charms. 

Catarratto also entices with flavors of peaches and apples.  It’s a dry, light-bodied wine that offers moderate alcohol levels, thus it makes for a perfect interlude to a summer’s supper.  Since it doesn’t have a lot of tannin, it works well as an aperitif but it can certainly swing to a first course like a shrimp appetizer.  Look no further than Donnafugata’s Anthilia, or Graci’s Etna Bianco (a blend of Catarratto and Carricante). 

                                       A  place has been set for you with Sicilian ceramics

                     

Zibbibo

This white wine screams SUMMER.  Zibbibo, the father of the Grillo grape, is a member of the aromatic grape family of Muscat.   Zibbibo on Sicily can be made dry or sweet, but this article will focus only on the dry version.    With its fragrant profile of honey, peaches, white flowers, and even lychees might make one think that a dry Zibbibo had some sugar, but the aromas fool your senses.

A glass of dry Zibbibo is a perfect aperitif.   It’s not a serious wine, but it’s a wine that many adore just by itself….or perhaps with a little something like Sicily’s wonderful almonds while watching the sunset.   Donnafugata’s Lighea is a great example of a terrific Zibbibo aperitivo, as is Rallo’s Quasar.

                                              A Sicilian antipasti buffet awaits

Insolia

Insolia is a white grape variety grown in both Tuscany and Sicily.   Until recently, Insolia was used primarily on Sicily in making Marsala.  It is known for its nutty flavors and citrus profile.   Modern Sicilian winemakers, however, are rethinking Insolia.   The grape is now being blended with others such as Chardonnay and the results are stunning. Cusumano’s Angimbe is my favorite of the new renditions, and for <$20, it’s a real warm weather charmer.

Have a magnifico summer!

http://www.wineknowstravel.com/sicily-itinerary/

Mt. Etna is Terroir on Steroids

                           Only 2 seats remain on WineKnows' trip to Sicily this October

This is the second article of June's month-long tribute to Sicily.  Mt. Etna, Europe’s most active volcano, offers one of the most profound examples of terroir in the wine world.  Terroir, considered the complete natural environment in which a wine is produced, includes such factors as climate, soil, topography, and even pests.  Mt. Etna offers an overwhelming diversity of all of these terroir elements.  Its terroir is so utterly unique that Etna is basically a micro-continent within the island of Sicily.

                 Oranges, apples, figs & cherries also love Etna's mineral-laced volcanic soil

Mt. Etna is Europe’s highest active volcano.  At a height of nearly 11,000 feet, Etna is topped with snow many months of the year.  Grapes are grown up to about 4,000 feet.  Altitude is a major element involved in climate on Mt. Etna.  The higher the altitude the greater the difference in diurnal swing (the difference between day and night temperatures.)  Diurnal shift is a critical component in making all world-class wines, and the Etna vineyards have substantial diurnal variations.

Altitude is also responsible for another important part of Etna’s terroir in that exposure to sunlight is a function of altitude.  UV exposure increases about 4% with every 1,000 foot gain in elevation.  The intense sun ray’s falling on Etna’s mineral heavy soils create an interplay of light and reflection.  This sunlight exposure on Etna is unparalleled to any other wine area in Europe.  Etna’s extra hours of sun (>1,000 more per year than in Northern Italy) make for completely unique growing conditions.

                                        Lava-based soil provides nutrients & drainage

The soils on Mt. Etna are also unique.  Formed as a result of the process of cooling and crystallizing of volcanic super-heated magma, there is a high presence of minerals in the soil.   Mineral-laden earth effects the final wine product in terms of color, aromas and tastes.   Etna’s lava-based soil also promotes excellent drainage---a critical factor in quality wine.

                   Etna has many vines >100 years old as pests find it difficult to thrive here

Mt. Etna’s vineyards were one of the few in Europe that were not wiped out in the late 19^th century by Phylloxera.  One of the most destructive louses ever known to world-wide vineyards, Phylloxera for an unknown reason did not destroy the vines on Etna (although it did annihilate many of Sicily’s vineyards).    

                 Come learn more about Etna's magical terroir with Wine-Knows this October

Mt. Etna has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO (United Nation’s Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization).  The volcano’s diverse terroirs have a monumental impact on Etna’s wines.   The following highly recommended wines are great examples of Etna’s terroir-in-a-glass, and all are worth every Euro of their bargain price:

• Cusumano Etna Bianco Alta Mora (white)

• Cantine Nicosia Etna Bianco Fondo Filara Contrada Monte Goma (white)

• Planeta Etna Bianco (white)

• Passopisciaro Contrada Sciaranuova (red)

• Firriato Etna Rosso Cavanera Rovo delle Cotumie  (red)

• Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso A Rina (red)

Most of these wines are available in the US and they are worth seeking out.  Or, you can join Wine-Knows this October when we'll be visiting Mt. Etna and sampling many of these wines during our ten day trip.

3 Unknown Italian Wines You Should Know

Vermentino comes from exquisite Liguria

                                

This is the second Blog paying tribute to Italy during its struggle with COVID-19.  Today’s article will discuss three grapes that are popular in Italy but relatively unknown to most Americans.  Because of their obscurity, however, they all are  great values.  Two are red wines and one is white.  Two are from Sicily, the other is from northern Italy.   All of them should definitely be on your radar screen for spring and summer wines as they are quite quaffable during warmer weather and pair well with foods typical of these two seasons.

First, let’s begin with Vermentino, the northern varietal and one of my personal favorites in all of Italy.   This way under-rated grape is grown primarily on the Ligurian coastline south of Genoa (e.g. Cinque Terre, Portofino and Santa Margherita), and the island of Sardinia also produces excellent Vermentino.   Think Sauvignon Blanc without the grass, but with some compelling added elements.  Vermentino offers luscious citrus mixed often with pear and white peach, mineral notes, floral scents, and almond nuances.   

Gnocchi & Vermentino:  a magical pairing in a magical country

Vermentino is magnifico both as an aperitivo as well as a wine to drink with dinner.  Its high acid structure allows it to work well with many foods.  My favorites are scallops in a caper/lemon sauce or plain grilled salmon, but a brined-then-grilled pork chop also works.   The wine also has enough structure to  pair with beloved Italian vegetables such as artichokes and arugula.  

Like Vermentino, Frappato is another bargain due to its undiscovered status in the USA.  Grown mainly in Sicily’s volcanic soils, this varietal offers an exciting opportunity to try a wine you don’t know.   Frapatto’s flavor profile is strawberries but there are also tastes of pomegranates and cloves.

                                    Frapatto is only one of Sicily's many charms

A low to moderate bodied red wine, Frapatto is an ideal choice for the lighter foods of spring and summer due to its muted tannin structure.    This wine is all about freshness, not power.   It’s an ideal red wine aperitif, but can pair equally well with tomato-sauced pastas, as well as grilled chicken or fish.

Nero d’Avola is another red from Italy’s far south, Sicily.   If you love full-bodied reds like Syrah or Cabernet, this varietal is for you.   Nero d’Avola is a powerhouse that delivers big gobs of black cherries with other flavors like licorice and even cigar-box hints.  Expect robust tannins and good levels of acidity.   Because of this, I would not suggest that it be served as an aperitif.

                                         Italy:  the world is praying for you

A bold wine, Nero d’Avola needs matched with equally bold food.   A grilled burger or steak would work beautifully, as would a pasta of Portobello mushrooms.  A pizza topped with spicy pork sausage, funghi porcini, grilled eggplant or roasted red peppers would be my nirvana for my pairing.

     I have a big amore for these three varietals.  I think you will, too.  All are available 

     in the US.

Viva Italia!

Suave Soave

Spring has sprung and I can’t think of a better way to celebrate its arrival than with a glass of a well-made Soave (swah vay).   This bone dry white wine comes from the wine district just west of Venice near Romeo and Juliet’s city of Verona.  Made from two grapes that are not grown in the US, Soave offers a wonderful opportunity to ring in Spring by exercising your wine muscle in a new way.

Soave is the name of a medieval town, the name of the wine district, as well as the name of the wine.  Only white wine is made in Soave and the majority of it comes from the Gargenega grape.  Soave can be made from as much as 100% of Gargenega, but by law Gargenega must be at least 70% of the blend.  Gargenega grapes provide high acidity, therefore, offer a powerful structure to the wine. The other grape allowed is Trebbiano, a quite historical grape native to Italy.  One of Italy’s most popular white grapes today, this varietal was used by the Romans to vinify wine, and it was introduced to France by Italy when the Pope moved his headquarters from the Vatican to Avignon in the 14^th century.

The flavor profile of Soave is influenced by the terroir in which the grapes grown.  Located at the base of the Italian Alps, Soave has benefited from millenniums of the Alps erosion.  The volcanic soil washed down has a powerful effect on the taste profile of the wine.  Expect nuances of minerality such as flint and lead pencil interspersed with subtle flavors of citrus, almonds, and honey….even though the wine is completely dry.  Aside from the almond and honey notes, Soave can be similar to a Chardonnay.

Look no further than award-winning producer Ca Rugate for a well-crafted Soave.  This family has a heartfelt bond with the land and has been making wines for several generations.  If you’re one of the lucky folks coming with us on the sold-out Northern Italy Truffle tour this fall, you will have a professional level tasting at Ca Rugate.  If not, you may want to pick up one or more of the following of their stunning Soave for a spring fling:

• Ca Rugate Soave Monte Alto

• Ca Rugate Soave Studio

• Ca Rugate Soave Monte Fiorentino

• Ca Rugate Soave San Michele (a best buy)

Amarone---from Obscurity to Stardom

     The historic estate of Dante Alighieri's has been leased for Wine-Knows' 2018 harvest tour

Pick up a wine magazine published in the last few years and chances are there will be an article about these rich, dark, voluptuous reds from northeast Italy.   Amarone has moved from relative anonymity to more front and center stage.  This is even more impressive in an era when lighter style wines are in vogue and consumers are shying away from higher alcohol wines.  Amarone is big, bold, and complex with alcohol levels that can vary between 14-17%.

It’s full name is Amarone della Valpolicella, but it is usually referred to simply by Amarone.   The wine is named after the district in which the grapes are grown, Valpolicella (which means the “area of many wineries”).  Located just north of Romeo and Juliette’s city of Verona and only 70 miles from Venice, Valpolicella has been producing wines since the Romans arrived a few millenniums ago.  Amarone was given its own special DOCG status by the Italian government in 2010.

                    

                    Amarone's grapes are dried for months prior to being made into wine

Amarone is like no other wine in that it is made by an ancient technique called appassimento.   The appassimento process involves laborious air drying of the grapes on wooden racks for more nearly four months, carefully turning the dehydrating fruit regularly to check for rot.  It involves a special building designed for ultimate ventilation.  The wine also relies on a lot of help from Mother Nature.  Winds from the nearby Alps are essential; however, moisture (which promotes mold) is a big problem.  Grapes (all local varietals unknown to Americans) typically lose 30-40% of their moisture before they are vinified.

The final product is a full-bodied, high-powered wine.  Raisin-like grapes have concentrated sugars which ultimately convert to alcohol.  In spite of its strength, if Amarone's alcohol is in balance with the other elements, the wine can be seductive with an enticing nose of black cherries, figs and spices such as cloves.  Its taste yields beguiling rich, dense, and velvet textures.  To appreciate its charm, however, it must be served with the right food.  Full-bodied foods, such as hearty meat dishes, are a great pairing.   Fish or chicken generally won’t work.  Amarone can pair with strong cheeses such as Stilton, or other big-flavored, aged cheeses.

                  Braised short ribs and a glass of Amarone are a marriage made in heaven

Amarone production has risen to 15 million bottles per year, a staggering increase of nearly 700% in the last 20 years.   Again, considering the trend is moving away from high alcohol wines, this ought to tell you something about how special Amarone is.   Why not try an Amarone during the upcoming holiday season?  Masi, an outstanding producer, is readily available in the US.   BTW: Wine-Knows’ 2018 harvest tour to Valpolicella and Piedmont will be staying on the historic Masi estate which was once owned by Renaissance personality Dante Alighieri.   Join us!   www.WineKnowsTravel.com

Italy’s Premier Bubbles

                      Nearby Lake Iseo & the Alps both help moderate the wine district’s climate

Serious lovers of Italian wines know that in addition to Barolo, Barbaresco, and Super-Tuscan, Franciacorta’s sparkling wines ranks among the primo wines produced in all of Italy.  If you have never heard of Franciacorta you’re in store for a magnifico experience, especially if you’re a connoisseur of top of the line French Champagnes. (BTW:  Don’t even think, however, of putting Franciacorta in the same category as Prosecco.  Franciacorta is about complexity, depth, breadth, finesse, and terroir.   Light-hearted Prosecco is about simplicity.)

The Franciacorta wine district is located approximately half way between Venice and Milan.  Although relatively unknown on the world-wide sparkling wine market, it’s well known among knowledgeable European wine consumers that Franciacorta produces Italy’s highest quality bubblies.  But, Franciacorta hasn’t always famous.  While this district had been producing wine for centuries, it was only for local consumption.  In the 1960’s experiments showed that the terroir was perfect for sparkling wines. Franciacorta was officially recognized as a serious sparkling wine district in 1967 when it was awarded a DOC (its own wine appellation).  Over the past 60 years the district’s growth has been impressive and quality has been pushed to the maximum.  Franciacorta is now a coveted DOCG, Italy’s highest honor for a wine district.

Like Champagne, the Franciacorta bubbles are produced with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  Both wine areas use the same labor intensive process (Methode  Champenoise) where secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle.  In both wine districts sparkling wine is bottle-aged on its lees (spent yeast cells).   This aging of wine on its lees is a crucial step in the process of creating quality.  Because of E.U. laws protecting the Champagne brand, this method of making sparkling wine in Franciacorta is called Metodo Classico.  

There are two distinct differences between Franciacorta and Champagne---the first being scale, the second being history.  Champagne produces 100 times more bubblies than Franciacorta (in fact, some of the larger Champagne houses actually produce ten times more bottles than all of Franciacorta wineries combined).   While Champagne has been producing sparkling wine for about 350 years, Franciacorta is a bambino at a mere 60 years. 

Pricing?   Like Champagne, Franciacorta is not inexpensive.  Franciacorta sparkling wine begins in the $40 US range and leaps up to nearly $150 for its priciest single-vineyard bottles.   My favorite Franciacorta producers (in alpha order) are:  Bellavista, Ca Del Bosco, and Ferghettina.  

Next Fall (2018) Wine-Knows will visit Franciacorta on its tour through Northern Italy which begins in Venice and ends in the wine area famous for Barolo and Barbaresco (Piedmont).  This trip has been perfectly timed for Italy’s most famous foodie event, Piedmont’s Truffle Festival.  There are only two spaces available on this trip.  For details visit www.WineKnowsTravel.com.