Morels can change a benign dish into sublime!
Spring has sprung
and with the changing of the season comes not only a bounty of fresh food
products in our Farmer’s Markets but a movement away from the heavier wines of
winter. Let’s, however, get one thing
out of the way: no wines seem to pair well with one of Spring’s most famous vegetables, asparagus.
After a long rainy
winter, there’s nothing more welcoming than a profusion of wild mushrooms. At the top of my list are morels, a earthy flavor bomb. One of
my favorite ways to prepare them is the classical French style: a sautee with
shallots, butter and garlic. I serve them
along-side a grilled meat such as spring lamb or chicken. An earthy
Pinot Noir is a perfect pairing for both proteins, as well as the morels. Try
for an aged Pinot versus a younger one…older Pinots have more earthy profiles
while the younger ones boast more fruit flavors.
Spring also means
an abundance of tender lettuces and also watercress. One of my favorites for this time of year is
Julia Child’s recipe for watercress Vichyssoise. The color is definitely in the
spring palette and depending upon Spring’s tricky weather, the soup can be served cold or
warm. The best wine? Watercress is delicate so I suggest using a matching profile wine.
Regardless of what temperature the soup is served, I would head for a Gruner
Veltliner or an unoaked, steely Chardonnay.
Fresh green peas
and tender green beans are also some of Spring’s edible gems. Either of these would work beautifully in a
pasta dish with a light cream sauce. A lighter
red wine (such as a Pinot Noir) which cuts through the fat of the cream but does not overwhelm, would pair well, but also a Sauv Blanc or an oaked Chardonnay (which
also cuts the fat) would also work with the cream.
Strawberries and
Spring are synonymous. A cold strawberry
soup is a gorgeous way to begin a Spring meal.
The recipe below (from the NY Times) is a delight and pairs with a
Gruner or a warm weather Sauv Blanc that has more robust fruit (versus grass)
flavors. https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1012735-strawberry-soup
There’s a theme
here. Wines that match with Spring’s
bounty are often Pinots, Gruners, Chars, and Sauv Blancs.
Next week we’ll take an in depth look at Sauv Blanc.
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