Madeira, My Dear!

                                        Madeira's wine-making process is very unique

Although the volcanic Madeira Islands are closer to Marrakech than to Lisbon, Madeira’s wine-making culture is very much Portuguese.   Madeira makes two types of wine.  The most famous, their fortified wine, is the one this article will address.  Production of unfortified wine (table wine) has sky-rocketed 500% in the last decade and these table wines are rapidly improving in quality.  Table wines from Madeira, however, will be handled on this Blog separately in a future article.

The Islands of Madeira have a long and illustrious wine-making history, dating back to the Age of Exploration when Madeira was a standard port of call for ships heading from Portugal or Spain to the New World or East Indies.  Madeira wines, as well as the island’s tropical fruits, were loaded on ships for trade.  The wine we know today as Madeira was an accident.

The sea voyage was long, arduous, and hot.  To prevent wine from spoiling winemakers copied the practice of Port producers and added a little brandy to prevent spoilage.  On one of the trips, however, a wine shipment went unsold so the kegs returned to Madeira after several months of a round-trip journey.  What was in the barrels was very different.  Months of tropical heat had transformed the wine’s flavor. Locals very much enjoyed the new tasting beverage…and the rest is history. 

Today Madeira is noted for its unique wine-making process which involves heating the wine.  What also makes Madeira production unique is the aging process, meant to duplicate the effect of a long sea voyage through tropical climates.  There are three main methods used to heat and age the wine.

• Cuba de Calor:  Used for inexpensive Madeira, this process is for bulk aging done in stainless steel or concrete vats.  The tanks are heated to temperatures of 115-130 degrees Farenheit for a minimum of 90 days.

• Armazem de Calor:  The second process more gently exposes the wine to heat and can last from six months to > one year.  Think sauna.  Large wooden casks are placed in a specially designed room outfitted with steam pipes. 

• Canteiro:  This method is used for the highest quality Madeiras.  Wines are aged without the use of artificial heat.  Instead, wine is stored in warm rooms and left to age by the natural heat of the sun.  This heating process can last from 20-100 years. 

Because of its unique production process, Madeira is a very robust wine that can be quite long lived…even after opening.  With the holiday season just around the corner, the following are suggestions for pairing the wine with foods. Madeira’s powerful acidity cuts through fat, making it a noble companion to a creamy soup, fatty meat or game, custard, soufflé, and a rich cheese.  A holiday dinner with foie gras, roasted duck or goose, a velvety mushroom soup, or a decadent English trifle are all grand possibilities for the upcoming season to showcase Madeira.

Culinary Souvenirs from Portugal

Wine-Knows is heading to the Port region of Portugal for this September’s harvest.   If you’re one of the lucky folks who have a space on this sold-out trip, here’s a sneak preview of items that you should consider bringing home for yourself or for foodie friends.  If you’re not joining us, some of these items can be procured on the Internet.

Piri Piri Sauce:

                                    African BBQ sauce from Portugal's colonial days

Angola was under Portuguese control from the 16^th century until the 1970’s.  Piri piri (Swahili for pepper pepper)  is an Angolan version of Tabasco.  This African rendition, however, has citrus and onion along with a variety of herbs such as bay leaves, paprika, basil and oregano.  It is a classical condiment on many tables throughout Portugal.  The ultimate pairing is with the country’s popular rotisserie chicken.   

Flor De Sal:

                                       Just harvested from the top layer of the sea

"Flower of salt" is Portuguese sea salt.  With nearly 800 miles of coastline, the country offers several producers of this sea salt.  And, the prices are better than the French  fleur du sel.

Vista Alegre Porcelain:

                             Many of Europe's Michelin-star restaurants use Vista Alegre

One of the most exquisite producers of fine porcelain in Europe is located in Portugal.  For centuries Vista Alegre has been one of the top choices for royalty throughout Europe (Buckingham Palace often uses Vista Alegre for their heads of state dinners). Wine-Knows will be visiting the factory to observe the entire process and this means access to the factory’s store.

Vintage Port:

                                      Vintage Port is only made in extraordinary years

How can one go to Portugal without picking up a bottle (or two) of Port?  Vintage Port, however, is just not any Port.  It’s only produced by the top Port wineries in the best years.  Since it’s often sold in half bottles, it’s a perfect treasure to tuck away in your suitcase for the flight home.

White Port:

      Served to Wine-Knows on the 2011 trip to Porto

You may be scratching your head on this one as very few white Ports are exported. 

White Port, served over ice with tonic and a twist of lemon, makes for an extremely heavenly aperitif on a hot summer's day.  I plan to bring home every bottle I can fit in my checked luggage.

Viva Portugal!

UNESCO: Burgundy & Champagne

The United Nations Education, Science and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) has awarded the vineyards of Burgundy and Champagne special status.  These wine areas, now join other World Heritage Sights such as Egypt’s Pyramids, Australia’s Great Barrier Reef and many of Europe’s greatest cathedrals, along with the wine districts of Bordeaux, Port and the Hungary’s Tokaj.

Cellars such as Veuve Cliquot's in Reims are now protected

In addition to Burgundy & Champagne’s vineyards, several of the cities in these wine districts have been granted UNESCO World Heritage status.  Both Reims and Epernay’s underground Champagne cellars are now protected by UNESCO.  Similarly, Beaune’s magical medieval downtown and its miles of underground wine cellars in Burgundy are now UNESCO.  Nearby, Dijon’s historic downtown has also been granted UNESCO protection.

                                           Beaune's architectural gems are UNESCO

UNESCO World Heritage is awarded to sights that are deemed of “outstanding value, to humanity.”   The organization provides resources in the form of technical assistance as well as moneys to ensure that these cultural masterpieces are preserved for future generations.

Merci, UNESCO!

Port Primer

                                          Port tasting during the Wine-Knows' 2011 trip

Port wine is synonymous with Portugal for it was here that the world’s first Port was crafted.  Named after the seaside town of Porto (from which the wine was originally shipped), it is made in a completely different manner than table wine.  Let’s take it take a step-by-step look at how Port is made, as well as examine the many different types of Port.

First, Port is a fortified wine---this means that alcohol has been added.   To learn about Port, however, it’s important to understand why the addition of alcohol.  Brandy was originally added to stabilize wine during the 17^th century for transport to England.  Today, alcohol is added half-way during the fermentation cycle to actually stop the fermentation.   As fermentation is the chemical conversion of sugar into alcohol, by stopping it midway (leaving remaining sugar) this is the reason why Port is always sweeter than regular wine.  Port is higher in alcohol than table wine since brandy is added.

Port is a blended wine. Not only is there a mixture of many diverse grapes, from many different vineyards, but there can also be a combination of several different vintages that are blended together in one single bottle.

Port is, furthermore, unique in that it comes in several styles.  These different types of port are based on the quality of the grapes, as well as how long it has been aged.  Here are some examples of the most well-known styles:

1.     Ruby:  The least expensive and less complex Port, this one is aged for only 3 years in bottle.  It is often served chilled as an aperitif.

2.    Tawny:  named for its amber color, this Port is aged in barrels for at least 3 years and offers more complexity.  Tawny can also be served as an aperitif or served at the end of the meal.

3.     Vintage:  only 2% of the production, it is made in the best years by only the top estates.  Bottle-aged for often decades, it offers explosive aromas and rich, concentrated flavors and finish.  The classical pairing is a well-crafted blue cheese.

If you’re joining Wine-Knows on the sold-out trip to Porto this autumn, you’ll have the opportunity to try all of these and many more.

Refreshing Summer Libations

Living in San Diego is almost like living in a constant state of summertime.  That means that my house is always stocked to the brim with the makings for a cadre of light aperitifs.  In July and August, low alcohol pre-dinner cocktails are even more mandatory.  Here are my faves---all liked by even the most discriminating visitor.

WHITE PORT and Tonic:

                                   Served to the Wine-Knows group on the 2011 tour.

One of the most surprising is a drink made from white Port.  White Port is dry, not sweet.  I first was served this by a well-known chef in Porto, Portugal, the epicenter of Port production.  It was 100 degrees and the aperitif was mixed with tonic water and a slice of lemon (equal parts).  I’ve been a raving fan since.   While white Port is difficult to find in the states, it’s growing popularity has made it has more available.  If kept in a frig, it will last at least a month…at our house, it wouldn’t last the week.  If you’re fortunate enough to have snagged one of the sold-out 2016 Portugal seats, you’ll have several!

LILLET and Tonic:

                                           Lillet Blonde, Lillet Rouge & Tonic.

Lillet is an aperitif made from Bordeaux grapes.  It comes in a white version (distilled from Bordeaux’s Sauv Blanc and Semillon), or a red version (distilled from the area’s Cabs and Merlot.)  On Wine-Knows' tours to Bordeaux we always take the group to the Lillet factory where one can mix a plethora of drinks.  The hands-down winner is always the following recipe:  1/3 white, 1/3 red, 1/3 tonic…with a slice or orange and/or fresh fruit in season.

APEROL SPRITZ

                                             My very first Aperol Spritz in Venice.

This is almost like having to choose your favorite child, but currently this one floats to the top of my list.  I discovered the drink in Venice about 5 years ago…every table of Italians was filled with neon orange drinks.  I ordered one and the rest is history.  They are the bomb!  Keep in mind I hate Campari (way too bitter for me), but I love its distant cousin, Aperol, an intensely orange-flavored aperitivo with just the right whisper of bitter.  The spritz is half Aperol and half Prosecco, served with a slice of orange.   Viva Italia!

World Heritage Wine Regions

UNESCO (United Nations Education, Scientific and Cultural Organization) has identified several wine regions in the world as World Heritage Sites.   Having had the opportunity to visit them all, here are my suggestions for the oenophile’s bucket list (alpha order by country):

    Austria: 

    The Wachu wine district, steep terraces on the banks of the Danube River, is ground zero to the world’s best Gruner Vetliner grape varietal.  Add jaw-dropping ancient monasteries, abbeys, and castles and you have an area deserving of the UNESCO recognition.

    France:

~ Bordeaux:  The 2,000 year old town of Bordeaux, the epicenter of France’s largest fine wine region, has earned its UNESCO status for its role as a cultural center, and for its beautifully preserved classical architecture (much of which has remained unchanged for centuries).

                                           

~ St Emilion:  Located in the Bordeaux district, this exquisitely preserved medieval hilltop town was the first wine area to be awarded UNESCO status in 1999.  The entire town is a treasure trove that has survived intact.  Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon vines surround the village.

~ Loire Valley:  The UNESCO area comprises 164 towns, as well as vineyards producing Cabernet Franc & Chenin Blanc.  Enormous chateaux dot the entire valley, offering a stunning architectural testimony to France’s Golden Age.

    Germany:  

The Middle Rhine received its UNESCO status for its role as a major trade artery in the evolution of Europe’s history.  The steep-sided river valley is studded with ancient castles, historic towns and Riesling vineyards that require great care and skill (some slopes angle nearly 45 degrees).

    Hungary:  

    The Tokaj wine appellation was Europe’s first classified wine district.  Its thousand year old wine-making traditions with dessert wines make it a no-brainer for UNESCO designation.

    Portugal:  

    The Douro Valley wine region, demarcated in 1767,  was honored by UNESCO because of the extreme human influence on its development.   The landscape’s nearly vertical hillsides is rugged and inhospitable, requiring significant grit and back-breaking toll.  This zone is home to Port.

    Switzerland:   

Lavaux is the largest contiguous vineyard region in the country.  Located on the steep banks of Lake Geneva, the area was honored by UNESCO for its daringly constructed  terraces built in the 11^th century.  The main varietal is Chasselas.

The Most Exciting Wines of the Year

Every year the Wine Spectator chooses the top 100 most exciting from >20,000  that have been blind tasted by the magazine’s writers.  These 100 stars, all of which are available in the US, are chosen based on quality and value.  The list has recently been published for wines tasted during 2013.  Of the nearly 70 wineries located outside of the US, 14 have been featured on Wine Knows tours.  Below is the Wine Spectator ranking, as well as price: 

#2:  Chateau Canon-La Gaffeliere  2010  (Bordeaux, France) $103

#8:  Chateau de Beaucastel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2010 (Rhone, France) $120

#28:  Domaine de l’A, Castillon Cotes de Bordeaux 2010 (Bordeaux, France) $34

#38:  Mollydooker, Two Left Feet McLaren Vale 2011 (Austrailia) $25

#45: Chateau Doisy Daene 2010 (Bordeaux, France) $58

#48: Greywackle, Pinot Noir Marlborough 2011 (New Zealand) $39

#50:  COS Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2010 (Sicily, Italy) $35

#58: Avignonesi, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2010 (Tuscany, Italy) $29

#69:  Boutari Naoussa 2009 (Greece) $18

#73:  Archaval Ferrer Malbec Mendoza Finca Mirador 2011 (Argentina)  $125

#87:  Graham Tawny Port 20 Year Old NV (Portugal)  $60

#91:  Mastrobernardino Taurasi Radici Riserva 2006 (Amalfi Coast, Italy)  $75

#96:  Altestino Brunello di Montalcino Monstsoli 2008 (Tuscany, Italy)  $120

#98:  Chateau d’Yquem white 2011 (Bordeaux, France)  $120

2 Great Summer Whites for a Song

Northern Portugal's dramatic vineyards 

I'm singing with great glee after learning about these 2 bargain Portuguese wines at a recent Society of Wine Educators meeting.  I took a group to Portugal last year…the tour sold out in record time.  There were some serious wine folk on the trip, many of whom had traveled with us to Bordeaux, Burgundy, Barolo etc.   It didn’t take long to convert them to Portuguese wine lovers and I can’t wait to share with them and others these latest finds…perfectly timed for summer.

Both white wines are from northern Portugal not far from the Spanish border.  Adega Ponte de Lima Adamado 2011 is a rock-star considering its price.  Westchesterwine.com has it for the incredible price of $6.79---even with $40 case shipping, that’s still an unbeatable $10 bottle.  Made from a combination of 3 local grapes (regrettably, none of which we have in the US),  its 10% alcohol level makes it the ideal choice for a hot summer’s evening aperitif.  Although I loved the floral and white peach nose, as well as the lemon and slight spritz on the palate,  it was its acidity that made it sing. 

The next find, Quinta de Carapeços Alvarinho 2011, is made from the popular grape known as Albarino across the border in Spain.   This Portuguese rendition packs in aromas of white peaches and flowers, along with layers of honeysuckle and citrus in the mouth.  A great finish put it at the top of hit parade.  At present this is not imported, however, I understand that it will soon be.  Cost is expected to be well under $20 per bottle. 

If you’ve not been to Portugal recently or not tried their wines in the last 10 years, you should understand that the quality of many Portuguese wines has grown leaps and bounds.  Once a Mateus and Lancer’s landscape, Portuguese wines (both white and red) have moved well into the 21^st century and represent some of the best quality/price ratios on the planet.

Most Frequent Questions of 2011?

As this year comes roaring to a close, here are the top three wine-related questions I get asked---along with my answers.

1.  What wine region offers the best values?   Hands down, Mendoza (Argentina) offers the best bang for the buck.  Malbec, one of the main varietals of Bordeaux, achieves super-star status here.  Moreover, the wines can be drunk fairly young.  

2.   What are your favorite wines in the <$20 category?  You can’t beat Argiola Costamolino Vermentino from Sardenia, Yalumba Sangiovese Rose from Australia, as well as several Malbecs from Mendoza (see above) including Norton, Altos Las Hormigas, Zuccardi.

3.  What wines are off the general radar that I should know about?   The Douro Valley in Portugal(home of Port) is making some knock-your-socks off reds.  Bierzo (Spain) is also producing some world-class wines from the red Mencia grape.  Grown only in this small corner of Northwest Spain, Mencia is well worth seeking-out…and the price won’t break your post-Christmas wallet.  For white varietals, Vermentino (see #2) from Italy. and Torrontes from Mendoza, Argentina rock! 

    

Best Wines of 2011

Ok, I know it’s a little like choosing your favorite child, but here’s the Top 10 wines I had in 2011. Wine districts represented include several from California.  As I am a Pinot lover the Russian River (#1,5,6,7,8) had the most entries, but  I also adored one from Santa Barbara County (#3).  Bordeaux also floated to the top (#4) along with the Yarra Valley of Australia (#2).   The last two will surprise many:  Portugal (#9), and most unpredicted of all, the Temecula wine district of Southern California (#10). 

They are in no particular order…the earth moved fairly equally with each one.

1. Dehlinger Pinot 2001  ($50)
2. Yarra Yering Red Number 3  2008 ($90)
3. Piedrasassi White 2010 ($42)
4. Chateau Leoville Poyferré 1996  ($175)
5. William Selyem Pinot 1998  ($120)
6. Hartford Court
   Pinot 2008 ($65)
7. Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($30)
8. Dehlinger Chardonnay 2008 ($45)
9. Quinta do Vallado Reserva Douro 2008 ($50)
10. Leoness Signature Select Melange 2008 ($75)

Top Value for 2011?  Hands-down it goes to Guigal’s 2007 Cotes de Rhone for $13….we’ve bought at least 10 cases at Costco and are heading back for more.  A top notch French producer, Guigal’s Rhone blend could masquerade in a blind tasting for 3-4 times its price.