Zinfandel in California

 

California offers some rock-star Zins from several different regions

Last week’s Blog discussed the Zinfandel grape's country of origin.   Long thought to be native to California, DNA science shows that Zin was actually birthed in Croatia.  We’ll switch gears in this article to why the varietal has been such a success in California.

Zinfandel grapes thrive in California’s warm weather.  The tricky part is that its thin-skins don’t do well in hot temperatures because they tend to shrivel.  Another issue for California’s winemakers is tempering Zin’s propensity to create high alcohol wines.  Remember that during fermentation sugar converts to alcohol, so riper grapes create higher alcohol wines.

                          California has several Zinfandel vineyards that are >100 years old
                                

California Zins are often times described as “jammy.”  This is because of the fruit's high sugar levels caused in part by the state’s warm climate.   Zinfandel in California can often times move into the blackberry jam category which comes from fully ripe grapes.  Less ripe fruit translates to strawberry flavors in Zin.

                                    Peppery arugula is a good pairing with peppery Zin

All Zins are also known for their spicy characteristics, but California’s hot temperatures enhance these flavors.  Spice is due to this grape’s chemical structure.  Compounds called “rotundones” contribute this spice flavor.  Spiciness can vary from gentle white pepper to more the pronounced spiciness of black pepper.  The warmer the weather, the spicier the flavor.   Because of this Zins are a perfect pairing with spicy BBQ sauces, and spicy cuisines such as Indian & Mexican.  

California has seven wine regions that are noted for top-level Zins.   Listed in alpha order, these areas all offer warm days but cooler nights, ideal for vinifying a great Zin.  All except one is located in cooler northern Cali, and all but two are located close to the coastline to take advantage of the cooling sea influence.  

•     Amador:   located in the foothills above Sacramento, this area has a  reputation for big, full-bodied Zins with matching alcohol levels.

• Dry Creek (Sonoma County) located between the Pacific and Napa Valley, this small appellation produces some really well-crafted Zins.

•    Lodi:  this area has some of the oldest Zin vines in the state & benefits from the cooling breezes of the delta waterways.

• Mendocino County:  these highly rated Zins have the benefit of the cooling nearby Pacific.

     The Russian River flows directly into the Pacific & both bodies of water cool these vineyards

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• Russian River:  this is the coolest region of the seven. Ripening is sometimes an issue, but with the right temps, Zins here can be wonderful.

• Santa Cruz Mountains:  cooled by both the nearby Pacific and its mountainous elevation, these Zins have complexity & depth.

• San Luis Obispo:  the most southerly of all the best Zin districts, SLO also benefits from hot days & cooler maritime-influenced nights.

Why not a have a Zin weekend to welcome Spring which is just around the corner?  Just be mindful, Zins have higher alcohol levels so drink accordingly.

Best Choices for Thanksgiving Wine

By now all of us are scrambling to finalize plans for Thanksgiving.  In addition to the seemingly endless decisions about the menu (brine the bird?  anyone dislike brussel sprouts?  new dessert recipe or my never-fail standard?) one of questions always includes which wine?   

Assuming you’re serving turkey, my suggestion is either a dry Gewurtzraminer or a Pinot Noir.  For the dry Gewurtzraminer, I recommend one from Alsace (this tiny piece of eastern France makes the best "Gewurtz" on the planet.)  Great producers with good penetration in the U.S. market include Trimbach, Weinbach, and Albert Mann.  Prices for these Alsatians range from $25-100, depending on if it’s a Grand Cru.  If you want an American Gewurtz, look no further than Claiborne and Churchill (California, Edna Valley).  This one is a steal at $20.

Pinot Noir can be pricey, especially those from Burgundy. But, don’t despair as there are some great American Pinots that won’t break your bank.  The best bang-for-the-buck coming in under 20 bucks is Point Conception’s Salsipuedes from Santa Barbara.  In the $30-40 range the following wines from California’s central coast represent solid value:  Melville, Stolpman, Alma Rosa and Alta Colima.  If you can spring for $50, I suggest Dehlinger from the Russian River in California.  Oregon is also making some good pinots in the $30-$50 bracket, including Drouhin and Ken Wright.  Want to try a reasonable international pinot?  Can’t beat New Zealand’s Craggy Range $30.  (The Wine-Knows harvest trip to New Zealand in 2014 will visit this producer.)

Happy Thanksgiving!

"Salmon Screams for Pinot Noir!"

Richard Geoffroy, Dom Pérignon’s winemaker, quipped this comment ten years ago during a private visit with a Wine-Knows group in the Champagne countryside.  This was one of the most memorable tastings I’ve attended.  It took place in the Abbey of Hautvillers where monk Dom Pérignon made his famous bubbly wine discovery.  The Abbey, closed to the public, is owned by Moët (makers of Dom Pérignon).  We had a vertical tasting of Dom Perignon dating back to 1975 served by a white-gloved waiter wearing a tuxedo.  The winemaker’s remark has since been etched in my brain as I’ve always thought this match was about as close to perfection as you'll find.

Meaty fish such as salmon and ahi tuna pair beautifully with Pinot.  That being said, it really depends on how the salmon is prepared.  Butter based sauces, for example, would probably pair better with a buttery Chardonnay (marrying similar flavors and textures.)  But, BBQ salmon achieves rock-star status when served with a Pinot Noir.  My much-loved rendition is salmon cooked on a cedar plank on the "barbie."

Because Pinot Noir is a grape that requires a lot of T.L.C. to grow, it is typically one of the more expensive varietals.  For California Pinots I prefer Dehlinger, however, my husband is a Williams Selyem fan (both of these are from the Russian River and are in the $50 range).  For a less expensive alternative, the Santa Rita Hills of California’s central coast are producing some terrific Pinots that represent a great quality price ratio ($30-40)--- I especially like Melville, Stolpman, Alma Rosa and Alta Colima.  On the other hand, if you’re a red Burgundy fan, one of the best-bang-for-the-bucks is Dujac in the $200 range.  Willing to spend >$500 on a red Burgundy?  I recommend Meo Camuzet.  If you want to keep it under $20, the best Pinot I’ve tasted in this category is Point Conception Salsiuedes (refer to my posting from September 5, 2012).

As for salmon, it goes without saying that fresh WILD salmon is the best choice for taste and health.  Farm-raised are higher in fat.  They are also often fed fish meal that can be polluted with toxic chemicals

If you are coming with us on the 2013 France tour we will visit both Champagne and Burgundy...and you are guaranteed that there will be salmon paired with Pinot.

Best Wines of 2011

Ok, I know it’s a little like choosing your favorite child, but here’s the Top 10 wines I had in 2011. Wine districts represented include several from California.  As I am a Pinot lover the Russian River (#1,5,6,7,8) had the most entries, but  I also adored one from Santa Barbara County (#3).  Bordeaux also floated to the top (#4) along with the Yarra Valley of Australia (#2).   The last two will surprise many:  Portugal (#9), and most unpredicted of all, the Temecula wine district of Southern California (#10). 

They are in no particular order…the earth moved fairly equally with each one.

1. Dehlinger Pinot 2001  ($50)
2. Yarra Yering Red Number 3  2008 ($90)
3. Piedrasassi White 2010 ($42)
4. Chateau Leoville Poyferré 1996  ($175)
5. William Selyem Pinot 1998  ($120)
6. Hartford Court
   Pinot 2008 ($65)
7. Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($30)
8. Dehlinger Chardonnay 2008 ($45)
9. Quinta do Vallado Reserva Douro 2008 ($50)
10. Leoness Signature Select Melange 2008 ($75)

Top Value for 2011?  Hands-down it goes to Guigal’s 2007 Cotes de Rhone for $13….we’ve bought at least 10 cases at Costco and are heading back for more.  A top notch French producer, Guigal’s Rhone blend could masquerade in a blind tasting for 3-4 times its price.