Classical Winter Wine & Food Pairings

                                         Winter does not necessarily mean only red wine

With nearly three months of winter before us, it’s time to bring out the colder weather wines, as well as recipes for their accompanying foods.  Winter wines are bold and powerful, and the dishes served with them need to match the wine’s intensity.  For many this time of year means big reds, however, there are some formidable whites that can also work beautifully.   And, let’s not forget wines such as Port, both a perfect winter aperitif, as well as a gorgeous dessert wine for this time of year.

Below is my winter list, arranged in alpha order by grape varietal.

Barolo & Barbaresco

Both of these Italian red wines are made from Nebbiolo grapes grown at the base of the Italian Alps.  Nebbiolo harvested in the town of Barolo is called Barolo, while Nebbiolo harvested in the nearby commue of Barbaresco must by law be called Barbaresco.   Known for robust tannin and high acidity, these wines need equally substantial foods.   Julia Child’s veal with mushroom cream sauce, or a pasta with a cream sauce of porcini mushrooms and/or truffles are perfect matches.

Oaked Chardonnay

Winter is a time for full-bodied whites and an oaked Char fits the bill.  The oak barrel gives the Chardonnay structure by adding tannins to the wine’s profile, along with the addition of complex butter, caramel and nutty flavors.  Oaked Chars can support luscious cream sauces and rich shellfish such as crab, scallops and lobster.

Cabernet Sauvignon

It goes without saying that all Cabs should have some age on them.  Cabernet grapes are hugely tannic, thus time is required for this varietal to be drinkable.   A smashing wintertime pairing is either a prime rib or a rack of lamb.  But, another classical coupling is a Bolognese-sauced pasta, or even a pizza---no kidding, try it…you’ll like it!

Aged Riesling

With time in the bottle the Riesling varietal changes dramatically.  Young Rieslings offer a fruity profile----varying from lemon in cold growing areas to apricot nuances in warmer climates.   Aged Rieslings not only become fuller and richer, but the wine’s taste and aromatics morph into something with petrol nuances.  For some, aged Rieslings aren’t enjoyable.  However, for many, an aged Riesling served with the right foods can be nirvana.   Perfect pairings are a pork roast with braised cabbage, or duck and goose.

Port

There are many types of Port and one size doesn’t fit all for matching them with food.  Tawny Port, which presents rich and nutty flavors, works well with salty items such as Parmiggiano Reggiano and/or nuts.  Vintage Ports (which are extraordinarily powerful with intense fruits, chocolate and spices), can stand up against a blue cheese such as a Stilton, or a well-aged power-house Cheddar.

Zinfandel     

If there’s ever a classical winter wine, it’s a Zin.  As most Zinfandels are a heavy alcohol wine, they must be served with a food of equal weight in boldness.   Think rich, unctuous wine-braised short ribs, or a hearty beef stew with root veggies.  But, beef is not the only match.  Chicken can work but it’s all about how it’s prepared.  My favorite method is a recipe marinating it for 24 hours with balsamic and aromatic herbs, then cooking it with onions, prunes, capers and green Olives.  Here the recipe:  https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/8752-the-silver-palates-chicken-marbella

Have a wonder-filled wine winter.

How Did a Cold Rainy Island Invent Modern Wine?

Perhaps the title of this article should have been the British Paradox?  No other country in the world has had more influence over modern wine than Britain.  For those of you who are scratching your head, let me explain. 

Bordeaux

It all began in the late 12^th century when Britain’s King Henry married France’s Eleanor of Aquitaine.  Eleanor’s family was extremely wealthy and her dowry included the entire Southwest of France, including Bordeaux and all of its vineyards.  Now that this entire area was under British rule, Bordeaux wine was granted preferential tariffs by the British monarchy and an export boom ensued.  For nearly a century, hundreds of ships traveling together in massive fleets filled with wine began the journey north to London.

Many Brits moved to Bordeaux to manage their wine export or shipping business.  Chateaux such as Lynch-Bages, Palmer, and Talbott reflect this British heritage.  But, the 100 year war between France and Britain brought it all to a halt.  The Southwest of France passed back into French hands in 1453.

Port

The British were hooked on red wine and after Bordeaux reverted back to the French the Brits needed to look elsewhere for wines.  The Brits sailed further south and discovered the wines of Northern Portugal.  Getting these wines, however, back to London proved challenging as the wines often arrived spoiled. To stabilize the wine, brandy was added and this fortified wine became known as Port.  Today in Portugal many of these British families still have a firm hold in the wine industry.   Names such as Symington, Grahams, and Taylor reflect Port’s close ties to Britain several hundred years later.

Sherry, Madeira & Marsala

The British were responsible for the invention of the fortified wine industry.  Not only did they birth Port, but also Sherry, Madeira and Marsala.   Fortifying these wines with brandy enabled them to be shipped without spoilage to London.   Britain had an insatiable thirst for fortified wines, especially Sherry.  By the 19^th century it is estimated that Sherry accounted for 60% of wine sales within Britain.

Madeira was very fashionable with the British Royalty who would voyage to the verdantly green “Garden Island” for a holiday of sunshine.  With the nobility came British merchants who set up wineries and shipping companies to bring a little slice of Madeira back to Britain.  The Brits monopolized the Madeira wine industry for generations and still to this day have a strong presence on the island.

The Brits sailed as far south as Sicily looking for their next new wine.  On the west coast they found the town of Marsala.  Having had great success in fortifying Portugal’s and Madeira’s wine for the long, arduous voyage back to London, they did the same with the table wine from Marsala.  Britain created Marsala as we know it today.

Glass Bottles

Our modern wine industry relies on glass bottles to prevent spoilage of the wine due to oxygen exposure.  While the Brits did not invent the glass wine bottle, they were the first to figure out how to mass produce them.  In 1821 a patent was issued to a chap from Bristol for his machine to bottle wine in a glass.  The rest is history.

Today, after centuries of influencing the development of the modern wine industry, Britain is finally producing its own wines.  While wine has been made for decades in England, the worldwide wine stage is now taking notice of English wines, especially the sparkling wines.  These “fizz” wines (as they are called) have out scored several well respected French Champagnes in blind tastings and have been given very high scores by international judges. 

Wine-Knows is heading to England this summer but the group is completely filled.  There are one or two openings, however, on the 2019 trip to the English countryside.

Cheerio!

UNESCO: Burgundy & Champagne

The United Nations Education, Science and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) has awarded the vineyards of Burgundy and Champagne special status.  These wine areas, now join other World Heritage Sights such as Egypt’s Pyramids, Australia’s Great Barrier Reef and many of Europe’s greatest cathedrals, along with the wine districts of Bordeaux, Port and the Hungary’s Tokaj.

Cellars such as Veuve Cliquot's in Reims are now protected

In addition to Burgundy & Champagne’s vineyards, several of the cities in these wine districts have been granted UNESCO World Heritage status.  Both Reims and Epernay’s underground Champagne cellars are now protected by UNESCO.  Similarly, Beaune’s magical medieval downtown and its miles of underground wine cellars in Burgundy are now UNESCO.  Nearby, Dijon’s historic downtown has also been granted UNESCO protection.

                                           Beaune's architectural gems are UNESCO

UNESCO World Heritage is awarded to sights that are deemed of “outstanding value, to humanity.”   The organization provides resources in the form of technical assistance as well as moneys to ensure that these cultural masterpieces are preserved for future generations.

Merci, UNESCO!

Port Primer

                                          Port tasting during the Wine-Knows' 2011 trip

Port wine is synonymous with Portugal for it was here that the world’s first Port was crafted.  Named after the seaside town of Porto (from which the wine was originally shipped), it is made in a completely different manner than table wine.  Let’s take it take a step-by-step look at how Port is made, as well as examine the many different types of Port.

First, Port is a fortified wine---this means that alcohol has been added.   To learn about Port, however, it’s important to understand why the addition of alcohol.  Brandy was originally added to stabilize wine during the 17^th century for transport to England.  Today, alcohol is added half-way during the fermentation cycle to actually stop the fermentation.   As fermentation is the chemical conversion of sugar into alcohol, by stopping it midway (leaving remaining sugar) this is the reason why Port is always sweeter than regular wine.  Port is higher in alcohol than table wine since brandy is added.

Port is a blended wine. Not only is there a mixture of many diverse grapes, from many different vineyards, but there can also be a combination of several different vintages that are blended together in one single bottle.

Port is, furthermore, unique in that it comes in several styles.  These different types of port are based on the quality of the grapes, as well as how long it has been aged.  Here are some examples of the most well-known styles:

1.     Ruby:  The least expensive and less complex Port, this one is aged for only 3 years in bottle.  It is often served chilled as an aperitif.

2.    Tawny:  named for its amber color, this Port is aged in barrels for at least 3 years and offers more complexity.  Tawny can also be served as an aperitif or served at the end of the meal.

3.     Vintage:  only 2% of the production, it is made in the best years by only the top estates.  Bottle-aged for often decades, it offers explosive aromas and rich, concentrated flavors and finish.  The classical pairing is a well-crafted blue cheese.

If you’re joining Wine-Knows on the sold-out trip to Porto this autumn, you’ll have the opportunity to try all of these and many more.

Have a Sweet 16 New Year

        Wine-Knows will visit Chateau Yquem, one of the world's greatest sweet wines, 

on the Bordeaux tour in September 2016 

Sweet wines are not just for dessert.  I was reminded on Christmas Eve how versatile a sweet wine can be.  I paired a 20 year old Grand Cru Alsatian Gewurztraminer with a salad of Stilton cheese.  Salads are one of the most difficult foods to work with wine because of the acid in their vinaigrette.  Further complicating matters was the strong blue cheese, but it all worked beautifully.  Here are some guiding principles for pairing sweet wines in 2016 with courses other than desserts. 

Salt loves sweet.  Sweet wines can be a great match for certain cheeses. Salty cheeses such as Parmigiano-Reggiano, Feta, Manchego, or a blue such as Stilton pair well with a late harvest wine, Port, Sherry, or Sauternes.

Spicy begs for sweet.  Spicy foods are a match made in heaven for slightly sweet wine such as a Moscato or a German Riesling.  The cool temperature, as well as the sweetness of the wine, helps mitigate the effect of the capsicum heat of the food.

High alcohol pairs with high fat.   Sweet wines have higher alcohol levels than table wines.  That’s why a Sauternes or Tokaj is often served with foie gras, even as an appetizer.  (That’s also why highly marbled beef works best with a high alcohol red such as a Zinfandel.) The principle is the same.  Rich with rich.  Heaven with heaven.

Wishing you a sweet 2016.

World Heritage Wine Regions

UNESCO (United Nations Education, Scientific and Cultural Organization) has identified several wine regions in the world as World Heritage Sites.   Having had the opportunity to visit them all, here are my suggestions for the oenophile’s bucket list (alpha order by country):

    Austria: 

    The Wachu wine district, steep terraces on the banks of the Danube River, is ground zero to the world’s best Gruner Vetliner grape varietal.  Add jaw-dropping ancient monasteries, abbeys, and castles and you have an area deserving of the UNESCO recognition.

    France:

~ Bordeaux:  The 2,000 year old town of Bordeaux, the epicenter of France’s largest fine wine region, has earned its UNESCO status for its role as a cultural center, and for its beautifully preserved classical architecture (much of which has remained unchanged for centuries).

                                           

~ St Emilion:  Located in the Bordeaux district, this exquisitely preserved medieval hilltop town was the first wine area to be awarded UNESCO status in 1999.  The entire town is a treasure trove that has survived intact.  Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon vines surround the village.

~ Loire Valley:  The UNESCO area comprises 164 towns, as well as vineyards producing Cabernet Franc & Chenin Blanc.  Enormous chateaux dot the entire valley, offering a stunning architectural testimony to France’s Golden Age.

    Germany:  

The Middle Rhine received its UNESCO status for its role as a major trade artery in the evolution of Europe’s history.  The steep-sided river valley is studded with ancient castles, historic towns and Riesling vineyards that require great care and skill (some slopes angle nearly 45 degrees).

    Hungary:  

    The Tokaj wine appellation was Europe’s first classified wine district.  Its thousand year old wine-making traditions with dessert wines make it a no-brainer for UNESCO designation.

    Portugal:  

    The Douro Valley wine region, demarcated in 1767,  was honored by UNESCO because of the extreme human influence on its development.   The landscape’s nearly vertical hillsides is rugged and inhospitable, requiring significant grit and back-breaking toll.  This zone is home to Port.

    Switzerland:   

Lavaux is the largest contiguous vineyard region in the country.  Located on the steep banks of Lake Geneva, the area was honored by UNESCO for its daringly constructed  terraces built in the 11^th century.  The main varietal is Chasselas.

Summer Wines

The height of summer is here…farmer’s markets are over-flowing with tomatoes, basil and stone fruits.  With folks taking advantage of every opportunity to eat outdoors there’s always the question of what wine to serve during our hottest month.  While many opt for whites and rosés, there are some excellent, lighter-bodied reds that should not be forgotten.

Casual summer dining at our home around the swimming pool this year will often include one or more of the following:

• Aperitif:  White Port and tonic.  Even if you don’t care for Port, you’re gonna love, love, love this refreshing drink.  Out of the 16 people who came on our 2011 tour to Portugal, 16 of them were won over by this aperitif!   BTW…white Port is a much lighter version of the dark one (also much less sweet), making it perfect for sipping before a meal! Don’t expect to find it at every liquor store…but it’s readily available online.  Serve it as they do in Portugal…over ice with a twist of lemon (I do a 50/50 combination, however, titrate it to your own preference. ($25)

• Rosé:  This option is one of my faves, naturally, providing it is a well-crafted wine.  Best one for me?  La Crema’s bone-dry version is unbeatable.  ($25)

• White:  A client of ours turned us on to this gorgeous wine from the south of France (thanks, Mark).  We’ve ordered cases.  This one offers a superb quality/price ratio, and a unique opportunity to experience a varietal you rarely see in the US:  Picpoul de Pinet by Domaine Felines Jourdan ($15)                             

       Another white option is the sublime varietal Torrontes from Argentina.  If you 
        haven’t tried it, you should.  One sip of this gentle peach-and-white-flower wine 
        and you’ll be hooked.  Best producers?  Try Familia Zuccardi or Altavista. (<$15)

• Red:   No need to give up reds even on summer’s warmest days.  What you need is a light-bodied red…but, light body does not mean light quality.  My current fave is the Dolcetto grape from Italy’s Piedmont district (home of Barolo and Barbaresco).   Paolo Scavino had the best Dolcetto during my recent trip to Piedmont…and it’s imported!  (<$25)