Comparing Two of Italy’s Best Cheeses

                                             

Northern Italy is a treasure trove for cheeses.  Two of the best known, Parmigiano Reggiano and Grana Pedano, appear to be almost identical.  Looking at two wheels of these drum-shaped cheeses they appear nearly identical with the exception of the specific writing on their exteriors.   If you cut them open, to the novice eye their grainy, crystalline texture in the same color palate look quite similar.   But, these two cheeses, both produced from cow milk, are quite different because of the specific areas in which they are produced.  Let me explain.

Like wine grapes, the milk of cows is very much influenced by the terroir in which the cows graze.  While both of the cheeses come from Northern Italy, Parmigiano-Reggiano comes from a small area outside the city of Parma.   North of Parma is the fertile Po River Valley, the home of Grana Pedano.  These two districts provide different pastures with different soils and weather.  Their respective terroirs are reflected in the two cheese differences with slightly different flavor profiles.   Parmigiano-Reggiano has a stronger, more complex, saltier and nuttier profile than the less intense Grana Pedano.

 

In addition to terroir differences, there are other disparities between these two cheeses.  First, Grana Pedano is made entirely of skim milk, while Parmigiano-Reggiano is made from a combination of regular & skim milk.  The heightened fat content of Parmigiano-Reggiano accounts for part of its richer, more butter-like  taste.    

 

Another difference between Parmigiano-Reggiano and Grana Pedano is due to their distinctive aging rules.   By law, Parmigiano-Reggiano must be aged a longer period, thus accounting for its higher price.   This prolonged aging period accounts for Parmigiano Reggiano’s deeper, more complex flavors in comparison to Grana Pedano.   That being said, Grana Pedano costs significantly less reflecting its shorter again period.

 

Last, but not least, the cows in the area of Parma by law have a strictly controlled diet of grass & hay only.   In the Po River Valley area, the laws for Grana Pedano allow the addition of silage (fermented foliage)  to the cow’s diet.  This accounts for another difference between the two cheeses.

 

While both of these formaggi are wonderful in their own right, they are unique.  Why not try a Valentine’s Day comparison of the two and see if you have a favorite?

Have a Sweet 16 New Year

        Wine-Knows will visit Chateau Yquem, one of the world's greatest sweet wines, 

on the Bordeaux tour in September 2016 

Sweet wines are not just for dessert.  I was reminded on Christmas Eve how versatile a sweet wine can be.  I paired a 20 year old Grand Cru Alsatian Gewurztraminer with a salad of Stilton cheese.  Salads are one of the most difficult foods to work with wine because of the acid in their vinaigrette.  Further complicating matters was the strong blue cheese, but it all worked beautifully.  Here are some guiding principles for pairing sweet wines in 2016 with courses other than desserts. 

Salt loves sweet.  Sweet wines can be a great match for certain cheeses. Salty cheeses such as Parmigiano-Reggiano, Feta, Manchego, or a blue such as Stilton pair well with a late harvest wine, Port, Sherry, or Sauternes.

Spicy begs for sweet.  Spicy foods are a match made in heaven for slightly sweet wine such as a Moscato or a German Riesling.  The cool temperature, as well as the sweetness of the wine, helps mitigate the effect of the capsicum heat of the food.

High alcohol pairs with high fat.   Sweet wines have higher alcohol levels than table wines.  That’s why a Sauternes or Tokaj is often served with foie gras, even as an appetizer.  (That’s also why highly marbled beef works best with a high alcohol red such as a Zinfandel.) The principle is the same.  Rich with rich.  Heaven with heaven.

Wishing you a sweet 2016.