I order mine with "the works"
Anthony Bourdain said this sandwich shop was the best
in Vietnam….I say it just might be the best in the world. Google banh mi and in a nano second you’ll get >36 million hits. Bahn mi has become an
international culinary hit. There are
now banh mi cookbooks, YouTube videos on tapas of banh mi, recipes for banh mi burgers and even banh mi
pizza. So, listen up when I say I know
where the best banh mi on the planet
is.
Let’s start at the beginning. Banh mi
actually means bread. The French brought
their beloved baguettes to Vietnam in the late 19th century. The baguettes, made from expensive imported
wheat, were affordable only to the French.
Once the French were kicked out of Vietnam, the Vietnamese began adding
rice flour to the baguette, making it more reasonable in price. The defeated French left behind warehouses filled with pâté, cheese, mayonnaise and
expensive cold cuts which were all sold at rock-bottom prices in the local
markets. The Vietnamese, out of disdain
for the French, began to eat these once forbidden products. Out of spite and to flaunt their independence, the Vietnamese then began experimenting with local products as ingredients
for the baguette.
There's a mind-boggling array of fillings...all prepared fresh daily
The actual banh
mi, however, wasn’t birthed until the late 1950’s in Saigon. Long before plastic and Styrofoam made
everything portable, an ingenious couple who had fled north Vietnam to the
southern capital, thought of making individual baguettes and filling them with
a the Vietnamese version of pate, mayo and pickled vegetables. They revolutionalized eating on the go in
busy Saigon with their new sandwich as it could be carried away by customers in
their hands.
Dove-tailing with the banh mi’s invention in Saigon during the mid 20th centry, the Americans also
helped the success of banh mi. During this period the US began sending wheat
shipments which allowed the baguette industry to flourish. By this time, the Vietnamese were also
changing---they had become adept at making pâté from pork, adapting the Chinese
version of BBQ to a local recipe, and were even making their own mayonnaise.
Hoi An is also famous for its gorgeous silk lanterns
So, where is the world’s best banh mi? It’s located in the UNESCO (United Nations
World Heritage Site) seaside town of Hoi An. There are at least ten ingredients, all of
them working in total harmony: a thin
layer of aioli, a splash of the au jus
left over from the roasting of the meats,
a spreadable house-made pâté, BBQ pork, sliced
tomatoes, pickled carrots and daikon, thinly sliced cucumbers, fresh cilantro,
and finally a dab of fish sauce mixed with chili for the perfect kick.
Wine-Knows will visit Hoi An's marketplace where all the bahn mi ingredients are purchased
If you’re coming with Wine-Knows in February 2020 to
Vietnam you’ll be eating the Holy Grail of banh mi at
this little dive of gastronomy. There is one or possibly two
spots remaining on this trip. http://www.wineknowstravel.com/itinerary-vietnam/. If you’re not coming, the name of the place
is Banh Mi Phuong….expect a line out
the door, and be sure to order “the works.”
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