Michelin Star Dining

On every Wine-Knows trip we try to include at least one visit to a Michelin star restaurant.  Until recently, gourmet diners had to travel abroad to dine in a Michelin star restaurant, however, the much revered Michelin rating system for restaurants is now in the US and has become popular among serious foodies.  The system began in France (where else?) and the story goes something like this…

The Michelin guide began in 1900 when the Michelin tire company offered a freebie brochure for its customers who were embarking on a trip.  It offered maps and tips on how to fix a tire and where to stop for car problems.  As an aside, it also offered information on lodging and restaurants. By the mid-1920’s, the brochure had morphed into a guide that now cost drivers, and included a special designation for restaurants that were exemplary. 

By the 1930’s, the guide was a bright red color and it had fine-tuned its restaurant rating system into almost the same system used today: good restaurants were simply listed (it was an honor to be even listed in the guide).  Particularly noteworthy restaurants, however, were listed in a hierarchy:  one star restaurants were special gourmet stops;  two star establishments were even more oou-la-la  for foodies; three star restaurants offered la crème de la crème of France’s finest dining.

So what criteria is used by Michelin?  No one knows for sure as its rating system and inspectors’ identities are as carefully guarded as the keys to the wine cellar of the Elysee Palace (the home of France’s Presidents).  That being said, the following figure somewhere into the equation: 

• Service
• Quality of tableware (e.g. china, stemware, linens)
• Appointments of dining room (e.g. floral arrangements, draperies, chairs, lighting)
• Quality of food
• Quality of wine list

Michelin guides are now in 20-something countries and often have a “make or break” influence on chefs/restaurants.  At least one chef has committed suicide over losing a star…numerous bankruptcies, restaurant closures, and divorces have occurred because of demotions of a star.

Coming to Sicily on the Fall tour?  We’ll be dining at La Madia in Licata, a two star Michelin restaurant.  The guide (published every year and available in most bookstores for about $35), is also available online at http://www.viamichelin.com/web/Restaurants.

An Updated (and Better) Caprese Salad

There are those who will say one can’t improve on the Italian classic named after the island of Capri on which it originated.  I was one of them… until recently. It’s one of those “I wouldn’t have believed it until I tasted it” phenomena.  Tasting is believing!  And, now is the time to try this gem as nectarines are in their prime.

Like the original Caprese salad, the new version is easy and fast (less than 30 minutes to assemble---no cooking is required).  The new rendition actually uses both nectarines and tomatoes (also coming in to their perfect season).  And, both mint, as well as basil, are used.  Important tip:  do NOT skip the mint as it’s one of the recipe’s secrets.  Also, do not tear or cut either of these herbs until right before serving (to preserve their best aromas).

Ingredients (6 salads served as a first course):

~ 2 lbs of assorted heirloom tomatoes (the smaller are often more flavorful)

~ 1.5 lbs of perfectly ripe white nectarines (yellow can also be substituted)

~ 8 oz of mozzarella or burrata

~ ¼ cup of basil (either the green or purple varietal)

~ ¼ cup of mint

~ 1 Tablespoon peach vinegar (can substitute another fruit vinegar, or Champagne vinegar)

~ ½ Tablespoon of Balsamic vinegar (light or dark)

~ 3 Tablespoons of good quality EVOO (I used ½ regular EVOO, and ½ Basil    flavored EVOO)

~ Freshly ground black pepper and sea salt

Directions:

Cut tomatoes and nectarines into wedges.  Slice cheese.  Place on platter (or individual serving dishes).  Scatter freshly chopped basil and mint over salad.  Wisk together the vinegars and oil in a small bowl, then drizzle over salad.  Sprinkle with salt & pepper.

Buon appetito!

Nero d’Avola—Sicily’s Signature Grape

Nero d’Avola is rarely found outside of Sicily.  Brought by the Greeks to the Mediterranean’s largest island (Sicily), it is named because of its almost black skin (nero means black in Italian).  It is also named after the town of Avola, located close to the town of Siracusa where the Greeks arrived several centuries B.C.

The varietal, which flourishes in Sicily’s hot and arid climate, is the most planted red grape on Sicily.  Nero d’Avola is often compared to Syrah, as the two thrive in similar growing conditions.  Syrah is also an intensely colored grape.  Both Nero and Syrah offer sweet tannins as well as peppery and plum profiles.  Nero, however, is more aromatic and its seductive flavors of raspberries, cherries nearly billow out of the glass.

There are > 100 different micro-climates in Sicily and Nero has its own distinctive features depending on which area it is grown.  In general, the western side of the island produces more intensely concentrated black-fruit wines that can be harsh and muscular.  In Sicily’s central area, the grape tends to produce wines that have more red fruit character.  But, it is in the southeast, that Nero d’Avola reaches its pinnacle where wines are elegant with after tastes of dried fruits.  The Wine-Knows group that will be visiting Sicily this Fall will be staying on a famous wine estate in this prized growing region.

The grape can be vinified as a single varietal, or blended with others.  The most famous blending is with Frappato to make Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s only  DOCG (Italy’s top wine classification).   Here 30-50%  of Nero d’Avola is blended with the lighter weight Frappato.  Nero adds the muscular backbone, while Frappato’s freshness softens.  More recently, Sicilians have even begun to blend Nero with Syrah trying to create a more international-style wine.

What to pair with Nero d’Avola?  Grilled meats and chicken are perfect, however, Sicily’s famous pasta a la Norma (eggplant and tomatoes) is also magnifico.  Another of the island’s most prized culinary items is swordfish.  Especially if it’s grilled, swordfish can be lovely when paired with Nero.

Paris’ Best Croissant & Baguette

Every year a team of well qualified Parisian gastronomes conduct tastings to determine the best of the best croissants and baguettes.   Under very strict rules (blind tastings, products must be of a precise size & weight, everything must be delivered in un-marked brown bags, etc.), the illustrious team of judges of the Concours du Meilleur nibbles their way through 100’s of entries.  Here are the results of this culinary Grand Prixe:

Best Croissant:   Michel Lyczak’s shop is located in Malakoff (a southern suburb of Paris, reached by the Metro’s line #13).   Sounds like a good reason to make the trek to the burbs, non?    68 rue Paul Vaillant Couturier.

Michel Lyczak palming one of his "babies"

Best Baguette:  Boulangerie Aux Délices du Palais (this is the 1^st time that a boulangerie has ever won twice---16 years ago, the award was won by the father of the current baker).  Surprisingly, this family of bakers comes from Portugal.  60 Boulevard Brune, 14th Arrondisement (Metro Vanves). 

                        Anthony Teixeira & his father at Boulangerie Aux Délices du Palais 

Deruta---Nirvana for Pottery Lovers

There are > 200 ceramic workshops in the town of Deruta, Italy---that’s one shop for every 40 citizens living in the Umbrian village of 8,000.  Before even arriving in the city limits of Deruta one recognizes the importance of pottery when a large, colorful sign welcomes visitors to the “Town of Ceramics.”   Once inside the medieval hill-town, however, evidence abounds on why it is one of the most important centers in all of Italy for hand-painted pottery:  streets are lined with factory showrooms which spill their vividly-colored contents onto sidewalks; street signs are hand-painted in flamboyant Deruta patterns;  names of bakeries, cafés and delicatessens are announced in vibrant pottery signage.  Ceramics are the heart-beat of Deruta.

Production of this glorious terracotta began in the early Middle Ages, however, Deruta reached its artistic pinnacle in the 16^th century.  Taking inspiration from Renaissance master painters such as Raffaello, Deruta artisans of the 1500’s were considered the best in the country.  To this day, this town’s masterpieces are coveted not only in Italy, but are prized throughout Europe, the U.S., and Asia.  Unfortunately, Deruta has become so renowned that prices have dramatically increased.  It’s not unusual for a coffee mug to cost >$25 in the U.S.

Those who will be coming in June 2015 for the Umbrian villa rental (there are only 2 spaces remaining) will have the opportunity to visit a Deruta workshop that has been owned by the same family for nearly 70 years.  You’ll be able to watch the entire process from the unformed clay, through the shaping process, to the painstaking hand-painting, then through the firing and glazing.  There will be plenty of time allowed for shopping…and most showrooms will ship purchases back home.  Looking for a bargain?  Some shops have a “seconds” rack where one can pick up an item with a small imperfection for considerably less.

Red China

For the first time in history, a country other than France is now the number one consumer of red wine.  The country?  China.  The Chinese drank nearly 1.9 billion bottles of red wine during 2013.  France, whose consumption of red wine fell by nearly 20% from 2007 – 2013, is now the second largest consumer.  The huge popularity of red wine by China is attributed in part to their cultural norms about color:   red signifies good luck and prosperity, while the color white suggests death and mourning.

The increasing consumption of red wine by China is reflective in the upsurge of French wineries that have been purchased recently by the Chinese.  Both Burgundy and Bordeaux have seen dramatic increases in vineyard purchases by investors from China.  In January, 2014 it was estimated that in Bordeaux alone there were at least 60 chateaux owned by Chinese---the actual figure is somewhat difficult to nail down as many of the transactions are shrouded in secrecy.  It’s not unusual for holding companies outside of China to purchase a chateau on behalf of Chinese investors, only later to reveal that the buyers were Chinese.

All of this has created controversy in France. According to the Wine Spectator, a Beijing businessman recently placed on offer of $164.2 million for a classified-growth in the Medoc.  The French seller pulled out at the last minute.  The reason for this is unknown, however, it is a fact that many French have mixed feelings about selling to foreigners….many feel the French heritage is under threat, while others welcome the increased demand for French wine in Asia.  Further adding to the chasm is the vast cultural differences, as well as the divergent business norms of the French and Chinese.

Now, for the good news.  The United States remains the largest consumer of all types of wine.

Take Time to Smell the Rosés

I’ve professed my love affair with dry rosés numerous times on this Blog.  To me they are the quintessential summer aperitif.  But, did you know there are two very different ways to make a rosé?  Let me explain.

The first method is made by simply mixing a white wine with red wine.  For all of you horrified at the thought, chill!  In many parts of France this is a common method.  For example, in Champagne it is quite typical to blend Pinot Noir with Chardonnay.  In the Rhone Valley, mixing red with white is often the norm.  The southern part of the Rhone is home to the illustrious Chateauneuf du Pape.  Red and white grape varietals are allowed in both the reds of Chateauneuf du Pape, as well as the white wines of the region. 

The southern Rhone is also home to the fabulous rosés of Provence.  While Provencal rosé is often made by mixing together red and white wines, it can also be made by the second method, saignée.  Pronouced “sen-yay,” this technique is named after the French work for “bleeding.”   In the saignée method, very young red wine juice that is only pink-tinged is removed from the vat early in the fermentation process.  This pale grape juice is then separately fermented to produce rosé.  In effect, the rosé is “bled” off from the infant red wine, thus the name.

There are arguments for which method produces the best rosé but the proof will be in your glass.   Take some time to smell (and taste) the plethora of available rosés this summer…and decide for yourself.