Foodie Gifts to Bring Home from Paris

                                                       

Like many, I can’t stop thinking this week about beloved Paris.  Rather than to dwell on the obvious, I’m changing the paradigm and paying homage to the fantastique food-related products that this gourmand’s paradise offers.  And, for those of you attending next year’s trip to Bordeaux, I’m including only items that can be brought home in your suitcase.

                                                           Fauchon's pastries are art.

If you’re looking for one-stop shopping, the area around the Madeleine church is a gold mine for foodies.  Within a few blocks, you have culinary nirvana.  Let’s start first with the food emporium extraordinaire, Fauchon (Place Madeleine #24-26).   Fauchon has become so popular that it has purchased a nearby property and expanded.  The original location serves up Paris’ best window shopping for gastronomes…if you can possibly find a space to window-watch.  (It’s not unusual to wait several minutes in a line just to be able to photograph the window.)  Fauchon’s window display is mind-boggling:  everything from an Eiffel tower shaped foie gras studded with truffles to baked lobster on the half-shell topped with a small mountain of beluga caviar. Inside you’ll find a mind-blowing cheese department and cases of prepared food products for the most discerning gourmands. There’s even a small restaurant.

                             The makings for a perfect take-out lunch in the nearby Tulleries.

A second Fauchon (just a few doors down at #30 Place Madeleine), is a large grocery store.  Inside you’ll find packaged food products from all over France such as black truffles, lentils from Puy, candied chestnuts, and a mind-boggling selection of fleur de sel.  There’s also a good selection of kitchen gadgets and even cookbooks in English.

                       Who wouldn't be pleased with a small tin of pate as a souvenir?

Also on Place Madeleine (#17) is Caviar Kaspa.  You have to ring to be buzzed in the door of this spot, but don’t let that deter you.  For those who want to splurge for lunch, try the attractive restaurant upstairs with lovely windows that overlook the Madeleine.  Last, there’s even a mustard boutique (#6 Madeleine) where you can sample many different blends...several of which are unknown outside of France.

For serious cooks there’s a serious kitchen store that is frequented by many of Paris’ Michelin star chefs.  Don’t miss Dehillerin (18-20 Rue Coquilliere) but also don’t expect a lot of help from the staff. While there are sauce pans larger than a human,  there is also a great variety of small gadgets that make perfect gifts for foodie friends.

                                                Dehillerin is a chef's dream.

Last but not least, if you’re a tea lover you are obliged to make the trek to Mariage Freres.  While Fauchon carries Mariage Freres products, there’s nothing as special as visiting the original Mariage Freres shop at 30 Rue du Bourg Tibourg in the charming Marais district.  This old-world style boutique offers a mind-boggling selection of teas and a professional staff that are exceeding helpful.   My favorite is their Marco Polo blend but there must be over 50 to choose from...and the staff will let you smell them all.  If it’s lunch time, their jewel-box tea salon is a gorgeous spot to dine.   Better yet, take an afternoon tea break here---it will be one of your highlights.

                  Tea at Mariage Freres is one of the most sublime experiences in the city.

Viva Paris.  Viva la France.  You are in our hearts.

A Labor Day Labor of Love

Paris' Ambassade d'Auvergne sublime chocolate mousse

I’ve had this chocolate mousse too many to count at one of my favorite restaurants in Paris.  This rendition, to me, is the benchmark for which to judge all other chocolate mousses on the planet.  And, thanks to a labor of love gesture from one of my dear friends (who was finally able to talk the chef out of the recipe), I now know how this ethereal chocolate masterpiece is created.

A few helpful hints:  I’ve tried this using different chocolates, however, the best rendition is exactly what the Parisian restaurant uses:  Valrhrona.  Also, the longer the finished mousse sits in the refrigerator, the more flavor it develops.  The chef recommended refrigerating it for 12 hours prior to serving, however, this can easily be made a day or two before.  Last, I have reduced the restaurant’s large quantity recipe to something more appropriate for home usage---the recipe below generously serves 8.

Ambassade d’Auvergne’s Chocolate Mousse

Ingredients: 

6 oz  Sweet Valrhrona chocolate (aka ‘milk chocolate’)

3 oz  Bitter Sweet Valrhrona chocolate (aka ‘dark chocolate’)

1 cube butter

3 Tablespoons Grand Marnier (or more if desired)

1.5 Tablespoons vanilla extract

6 egg yolks

9 egg whites

2/3 cup sugar (divided between egg whites and yolk mixture)

Directions:

Melt the chocolate and butter slowly together in a double boiler pan, stirring regularly.  After it has melted, let the chocolate cool while you do the following:

In a separate bowl (do not use a plastic bowl as eggs won’t develop as much volume), whip the egg whites until they get to the soft peak stage. Slowly add little by little 3 tablespoons of the total 2/3 C sugar.  Whip whites until they are stiff with firm peaks.

In yet another bowl, beat the egg yolks until they are pale yellow, then add the remaining sugar mixture (should be about ½ cup) and continue beating until well mixed.  Next, add the Grand Marnier and vanilla.  Mix well.

Pour the cooled chocolate from the double broiler into a large bowl.  Add egg yolk mixture and mix well.  Slowly fold in egg whites little by little---the key is to gently fold so that the egg whites retain their volume.

If you should be in Paris, don’t miss dinner at Ambassade d’Auvergne.  It’s one of the few restaurants opened in the city on Sunday evenings and it's also one of Paris' best bargains.  If it's a Sunday night, a reservation is a must.  But whatever night, be sure to order the chocolate mousse.  http://www.ambassade-auvergne.com

Happy labor day, with love.

Paris by Foot...and by Mouth

One of the most requested items I am asked for by clients who hire me to develop a private wine and food trip for them, is a foodie tour of Paris.  While each one is customized a little differently depending on the client, below is a walking tour that encompasses many of the city’s culinary and oenophile shrines….all in one small district in the very center of Paris.  It can easily be done in a few hours, and is convenient to combining with sightseeing at the Louvre, Tullerie Gardens and the Champs Elysee.

The Madeleine district is a gourmand’s paradise and includes some of Paris’ most famous and most expensive food stores.   All of the shops are clustered around the square of the Madeleine church.  There’s something for every food lover all the way from savory to sweet, from moderate to tres expensive, from simple to lavish, and from tea to wine.  If you have time for only one foodie experience in Paris, look no further.

I suggest starting the tour in the morning and beginning with breakfast at one of my favorite gastronomic spots in Paris, Laduree.  Here are step by step instructions:

• Take the Metro to Place Concorde and exit at the Rue Royale.  Walk up the right side of the Rue Royale to Laduree (16 rue Rue Royale).  This place is a gem from another century. Sit downstairs, even if you have to wait for a table.  Don’t leave without purchasing a snack for later----their world-famous macarons come in every shade (and flavor) of the rainbow (note:  these are not American coconut confections, but an entirely different melt-in-your-mouth delight).  www.laduree.fr/

                      Laduree oozes old-world charm & features gorgeous pastries.

• Continue up Rue Royale to #6 Place Madeleine where you’ll find one of France’s legendary mustard producer.  Maille makes several mustards that are not exported including one with truffles.  There are over 30 flavors that change with the seasons, however, don’t miss cherry or a chive/fennel.   Tastings are available. http://www.maille.com/

                               The Maille shop features several mustards that are not exported.

• Proceed to Fauchon at 24-26 Place Madeleine.  One of the world’s most impressive gourmet emporiums, Fauchon is in a category all by itself.  To visit Paris without visiting Fauchon would be a sacrilege.  This is the gold standard for perfectly ripened cheese, exquisite foie gras, and to-die-for pastries.   This is the place in Paris to put together a once-in-a-lifetime picnic.   Beaucoup Euros.   www.fauchon.com

                                               Fauchon:  the epicenter of Paris' gourmet scene
                

• Next, head to Fauchon’s gift shop at 30 Place Madeleine, just a few steps away.  There is guaranteed to be something for any serious epicurean here to bring home.  Some of my favorite items are their huge selection of sea salt, Champagne stoppers to keep the bubbles, tea, and cocktail napkins.   All are light weight gifts, and are packaged beautifully.

                                                  Fauchon's gift shop is next door

• The Masion de Truffe (truffle) is next at #19 Place Madeleine.  In business since 1932, this one is a Paris classic.  Go in as the smells are as awesome as a Chanel perfume.  All kinds of food items are available that have been infused with this magnificent item...I especially like to get a slice of their truffled foie gras.  www.maison-de-la-truffe.com‎

                                                   The smell alone is worth the journey

• Then, just a few feet away you’ll find Caviar Kaspia at  #17 Place Madeleine.  You will need to ring the buzzer to be let in.  If you’re in the mood for a wild splurge, head upstairs to their restaurant where you can do some serious indulging (and imbibing---they have a superb selection of champagnes by the glass).  Be sure to ask for a table with a view of the Madeleine church.  www.lamaisonkaspia.com

                                 Maison Kaspia offers a beautiful setting for a romantic lunch

• Now, for your last culinary treat:  chocolate.  Pop into #3 Place Madeleine, Patrick Roger’s, one of the best chocolatiers in France.  Monsieur Roger’s is somewhat like visiting the Louvre of chocolates---it’s not unusual to see several feet high artistic sculptures made out of chocolate. If you’re a caramel-lover, you’ll also fall head-over-heels for his dreamy caramels.  www.PatrickRoger.com

The Madeleine Church is reflected in Roger's store window 

displaying his gigantic chocolate sculpture

• You will now have journeyed around the entire Place Madeleine.  For your last stop, take a left on the street that begins in front of the Madeleine church, Boulevard Madeleine, and go to #3 Boulevard Madeleine.  Here you will find Paris’ most impressive wine shop, Lavinia.  By now you should be thirsty and Lavinia has a fabulous degustation.   www.lavinia.fr

Bon appetite!   

Paris’ Best Croissant & Baguette

Every year a team of well qualified Parisian gastronomes conduct tastings to determine the best of the best croissants and baguettes.   Under very strict rules (blind tastings, products must be of a precise size & weight, everything must be delivered in un-marked brown bags, etc.), the illustrious team of judges of the Concours du Meilleur nibbles their way through 100’s of entries.  Here are the results of this culinary Grand Prixe:

Best Croissant:   Michel Lyczak’s shop is located in Malakoff (a southern suburb of Paris, reached by the Metro’s line #13).   Sounds like a good reason to make the trek to the burbs, non?    68 rue Paul Vaillant Couturier.

Michel Lyczak palming one of his "babies"

Best Baguette:  Boulangerie Aux Délices du Palais (this is the 1^st time that a boulangerie has ever won twice---16 years ago, the award was won by the father of the current baker).  Surprisingly, this family of bakers comes from Portugal.  60 Boulevard Brune, 14th Arrondisement (Metro Vanves). 

                        Anthony Teixeira & his father at Boulangerie Aux Délices du Palais 

The Longest Lunch Line in Paris

                                                  A worth waiting for luncheon experience

I’m a type A personality---obsessed with time.  So, when I head out for a meal knowing that there’s going to be a long wait in line you know that it’s gotta be terrific food.  To top it off, this place isn’t even French---which is another cardinal rule that I break (typically, I always eat the local cuisine).  So what is this place that compels me to visit each time I’m in Paris and break so many of my tenets?

You can’t call it a restaurant, a bistro or even a café…how do you say “dive” in French?   The place is called L'As du Falafel, a falafel joint in the hip Marais district not far from the Place de Vosges.  (In case you don’t know what a falafel is, think of it as a Mediterranean meatball made from garbanzo beans and herbs).   For me, a falafel is one of the yummiest foods  invented and this version is nirvana.  Served at  L'As du Falafel as a Mediterranean sandwich,  it comes in pita bread topped with thinly sliced cabbage, diced cucumbers, onions, tomatoes, grilled eggplant, a tahini-based sauce, as well as an optional hot sauce.  Order “the works” from the take-out window, then wait for your name or number to be called.  For <$10 you’ll have a mouth-watering, ooey-gooey meal that you’ll never forget.

 

If you can’t stomach the thought of a line eating into your precious time in Paris, or  the idea of eating a messy sandwich on the street with 20 others doing the same thing, then you might want to consider L'As du Falafel’s inside tables where you can order a full array of Middle Eastern dishes from a waiter.  I did it once, but it wasn’t the same rite of passage as the take-out window experience.  Furthermore, it’s more expensive and the one time I did not it took almost as much time to get my food as the long line outside.

 

There are several falafel places on this tiny pedestrian street which is located deep in the heart of the City of Light’s Jewish district.  L'As du Falafel, however, stands head and shoulders above the rest in my opinion.  While it’s tempting to try the others as they have no line, something always seems to be missing. 

David Lebovitz, Paris’ most famous food blogger, listed L'As du Falafel in his post titled 10 Insanely Delicious Things You Shouldn't Miss in Paris.  In fact, it’s his #2 recommended spot.   That was three years ago so I’m sure that the lines of foodies has expanded exponentially since then.   I just arrived in Paris and the apartment we’ve rented is only a few blocks away…. I’m heading over early to hopefully avoid the longest lines.

 

L'As du Falafel

34 rue de Rossier

(just look for the line…but never go on a Saturday as they’re closed)

Metro:  St Paul

 

Best Croissant in Paris

The jury has rendered its verdict. The ruling on the best croissant in Paris for 2013 has been announced by the foodie-centric Concours du Meilleur. I nearly wept with joy when I discovered that top honors went to 134 RdT, a boulangerie one block away from the apartment we’ve rented this September near the Place de Vosges in the Marais. (Last year this shop placed in the Top 10 for the Best Baguette in Paris!)

Here’s the decision, in order of ranking:

 • 134 RdT, 134 Rue de Turenne, 75003

 • Le Grenier à Pain des Abbessess, 38 Rue des Abbesses, 75018

 • Boulangerie L’Essentiel Mouffetard, 2 Rue Mouffetard, 75005 

 • Boulangerie des Belles Feuilles, 22 Rue de Belles Feuilles, 75016

 • Boulangerie Pichard, 88 Rue Cambronne, 75015

Burgundy's Grape Varietals

In contrast to many regions in France, there are only a few grape varieties that are grown in Burgundy.   Moreover, unlike several other French wine regions, Burgundy varietals are rarely blended.  A general rule of thumb is if it’s white, it’s made from 100% chardonnay; if it’s a red Burgundy, it’s 100% Pinot Noir (one of the few exceptions, is Gamay, which is used almost exclusively in the Beaujolais district of Burgundy).

Chardonnay grapes account for nearly half of Burgundy’s vineyards. (Up until recently, this variety was thought to have originated in Burgundy, however, DNA testing shows that the two parent grapes of Chardonnay are the indigenous French Pinot Noir, and the Croatian grape Gouais Blanc.)  If it is an expensive Burgundian white, you can bet that it is pure Chardonnay.

Burgundian Chardonnay is known simply as “white Burgundy.”   These Chardonnays have minerality notes.  (This is not surprisingly as 70 million years ago Burgundy was a seabed and the petrified remains of a multitude of shellfish from this ancient sea floor have created Burgundy’s premier limestone soils---the cause of the wine’s mineral-like nuances.)  White Burgundies tend to be much more austere in style (high acidity, mineral-like notes, with soft nuances of lemon and green apple when young) than the fruit forward Chardonnays of California.  (Grown in a warmer climate and often influenced by oak and malo-lactic fermentation, new world Chardonnays tend toward lush profiles of pineapple, tropical fruits, vanilla and butter).

Chablis, the northern most district of Burgundy (located only 60 miles south of Paris), produces iconic white Burgundies that transcend the variety from which they are made.  The Chablis version of Chardonnay owes much more to the local soil and climate rather than the grape.  (Chablis is cooler and has more minerals in its earth).   Producers in Chablis, furthermore, avoid malo-lactic fermentation and the use new oak, which further differentiates Chablis from the Chardonnay made in the more southerly parts of Burgundy. 

Pinot Noir, the main red varietal of Burgundy, accounts for nearly 40% of the grapes that are grown.  While Pinot Noir is grown all over the world, the varietal’s origin is thought to be Burgundy.   The grape reaches rock-star status here and these wines have a loyal, almost cult-like following of oenophiles.

“Red Burgundy” is made exclusively from the Pinot Noir grape.  The best Burgundian reds generally come from the Côte d’Or (“the golden slope”).   Located about 250 miles southeast of Paris, this is the “money-honey” district and home to some of the world’s most expensive reds.  Thirty–two of its thirty-three vineyards are Grand Cru.  Pinot Noir represents over 90% of the production.

In comparison to the new-world style, Pinot Noir from Burgundy is much more restrained.  Weather strongly contributes to this disparity (in California, for example, fruit typically ripens fully due to ample sun, whereas, in Burgundy grapes struggle to ripen.  Fully ripened grapes are replete with sugar, however, at the expense of acid which balances out sweetness and provides structure.  Furthermore, when all of the sugar ferments into alcohol, new world Pinots can have very high alcohol levels.)  Burgundian reds are prized by connoisseurs because of these differences.

Other main Burgundian varietals include Gamay used to produce Beaujolais’ light, fresh, fruity and easy to drink red.  Aligoté, a white grape, produces a dry, light white, and is also used to produce Burgundy’s sparkling wine, Cremant.

The Best Sunday Night Dinner in Paris

Aligot, one of the restaurant's signature dishes.

I frequently am asked recommendations on where to eat in Paris.  The first question I ask is “What’s your budget?”  The second is “What night?”  If you’re dining in Paris on Sunday evening (when the vast majority are closed) and don’t want to drop a bazillion Euros----but still want to eat well---there’s one place that stands an Eiffel tower above the rest:  Ambassade de Auvergne.

The little jewel specializes in cuisine from France’s mountainous central area, the Auvergne region.  Its prixe fixe menu (28 Euro or <$35, including tip and tax) represents one of the best deals in Paris for quality cooking.  Don’t leave Paris without trying the “Ambassador’s” aligot, a mouthwatering potato dish infused with the region’s famous Cantal cheese---it’s totally sinful, but a sin you’ll never forget (and it is served with the prixe-fixe dinner). 

The other piece de resistance is their chocolate mousse which I learned about by accident.  One of my friends ordered it and insisted that I take a bite---I declined but my dear friend was unrelenting…and the rest is history.  After too-many-to-count pedestrian chocolate mousses in my life, I can say that this version is in a league of its own---absolutely superb!  The good news is that it, too, is served on the bargain prixe fixe dinner.

Ambaassade de Auvergne is located near Georges Pompidou Center on a small street away from the maddening crowds.  If you’re coming by Metro, it’s almost across the street from the Rambuteau stop.  If dining on Sunday, don’t even think about showing up without a reservation.  I prefer the rustic downstairs dining room decorated with a wooden-beamed ceiling and copper pots, however, the upstairs is attractive as well.  I suggest not choosing a wine from the Auvergne area…I’ve tried several and none were noteworthy.  But, not to worry as there is a good selection of moderate cost wines from several other areas in France.

www.ambassade-auvergne.com