Red China

For the first time in history, a country other than France is now the number one consumer of red wine.  The country?  China.  The Chinese drank nearly 1.9 billion bottles of red wine during 2013.  France, whose consumption of red wine fell by nearly 20% from 2007 – 2013, is now the second largest consumer.  The huge popularity of red wine by China is attributed in part to their cultural norms about color:   red signifies good luck and prosperity, while the color white suggests death and mourning.

The increasing consumption of red wine by China is reflective in the upsurge of French wineries that have been purchased recently by the Chinese.  Both Burgundy and Bordeaux have seen dramatic increases in vineyard purchases by investors from China.  In January, 2014 it was estimated that in Bordeaux alone there were at least 60 chateaux owned by Chinese---the actual figure is somewhat difficult to nail down as many of the transactions are shrouded in secrecy.  It’s not unusual for holding companies outside of China to purchase a chateau on behalf of Chinese investors, only later to reveal that the buyers were Chinese.

All of this has created controversy in France. According to the Wine Spectator, a Beijing businessman recently placed on offer of $164.2 million for a classified-growth in the Medoc.  The French seller pulled out at the last minute.  The reason for this is unknown, however, it is a fact that many French have mixed feelings about selling to foreigners….many feel the French heritage is under threat, while others welcome the increased demand for French wine in Asia.  Further adding to the chasm is the vast cultural differences, as well as the divergent business norms of the French and Chinese.

Now, for the good news.  The United States remains the largest consumer of all types of wine.

Why Are the French Drinking Less Wine?

In 1980 more than half of French adults were consuming wine almost daily.  Today, fewer than 17% of them are doing so. Historically, the French have grown up with wine on the table at every meal but this is changing.  Social commentators say that there’s been a cultural shift in France towards how they view wine.

For Frenchmen in their 60’s and 70’s wine remains an essential part of their cultural heritage…and it is served daily with lunch and dinner.  Those in their 40’s and 50’s seem to think of wine as an occasional indulgence.  While they drink less, they do spend more per bottle.  Most 20-somethings don’t start even taking an interest in wine until their mid-to-late 20’s.  For them, wine is simply a product that competes for their Euros…and may not be worth the lofty prices in comparison to the increasingly popular beers and mixed drinks.  Add this to the changing demographics of the Muslim community in France.  Nearly 10% of France is now non-drinking Muslim.

But, France is not the only country in Europe with declining populations of wine drinkers and cultural changes related to the role of wine in daily living.  Italy and Spain are following a similar pattern to France.  While this may have significant effects on these country’s cultures and foodways, their wine industries probably won’t be effected.  China’s exploding population of wine drinkers is expected to buy all of the excess European wine.

What I Learned this Year

My first four learnings of 2013 were due to the exciting DNA work by scientists studying the origin of grapes.  However, there are several other cogent details I’ve picked up in the last 12 months.  Here’s my top 10 list, checked it twice…and yes, I’ve been both naughty and nice.

1. Cabernet Sauvignon is a cross between two grapes; Cabernet Franc is the father, Sauvignon Blanc is the mother.

2. Chardonnay is a cross between two grapes:  Pinot Noir is the father; Gouais Blanc is the mother.

3. The first Chardonnay grapes came from the Burgundy district in France.

4. The origin of wine grapes is actually Turkey---9000 BC!

5. New Zealand, while known for Sauvignon Blanc, is now focusing on Pinot Noir…and they are excellent.

6. Argentina, which holds the record for the highest vineyards in the world (5,000 ft), is now planting grapes in the Andes at >10,000 ft. 

7. While blending is the hallmark of Champagne, there are >400 cuvees blended to create Veuve Cliquot.

8. China will be the world’s largest wine consumer by 2016.

9. Wine consumption by the French has dropped >50% since 1975.

10. Saltiness in wine is due to the minerality of the soil 

     in which the grapes are grown.