Why Are the French Drinking Less Wine?

In 1980 more than half of French adults were consuming wine almost daily.  Today, fewer than 17% of them are doing so. Historically, the French have grown up with wine on the table at every meal but this is changing.  Social commentators say that there’s been a cultural shift in France towards how they view wine.

For Frenchmen in their 60’s and 70’s wine remains an essential part of their cultural heritage…and it is served daily with lunch and dinner.  Those in their 40’s and 50’s seem to think of wine as an occasional indulgence.  While they drink less, they do spend more per bottle.  Most 20-somethings don’t start even taking an interest in wine until their mid-to-late 20’s.  For them, wine is simply a product that competes for their Euros…and may not be worth the lofty prices in comparison to the increasingly popular beers and mixed drinks.  Add this to the changing demographics of the Muslim community in France.  Nearly 10% of France is now non-drinking Muslim.

But, France is not the only country in Europe with declining populations of wine drinkers and cultural changes related to the role of wine in daily living.  Italy and Spain are following a similar pattern to France.  While this may have significant effects on these country’s cultures and foodways, their wine industries probably won’t be effected.  China’s exploding population of wine drinkers is expected to buy all of the excess European wine.

Phylloxera---the Black Plague for Vineyards

Say the word phylloxera to a winemaker and it’s akin to a death sentence for his wines.  Phylloxera (roughly pronounced  phil - ox - syrah) is a small louse that attacks the roots of the grape vine.  By the time the plant begins to show signs of disease above ground, it’s too late.   As it spreads very quickly from plant to plant, and from vineyard to vineyard, entire wine regions can be wiped out in a flash.

Nearly all vineyards in Europe succumbed to phylloxera in the late 1800’s.  Can you imagine 70-90% of all the vineyards in Europe destroyed by a microscopic bug?  What may be equally surprising is that the only cure for the horrible plague was to replant the European vines on American root stock---American vines were resistant to phylloxera.

Those of you who have been to Bordeaux with us may recall the colorful rose bushes planted at the ends of the rows of vines.  While most visitors think this is an aesthetic touch, the roses were originally planted as an “early warning system” for phylloxera.  In the early 1900’s, it was believed that the rose bush was attacked first by phylloxera, the grape vine second.  Thus, when roses began to die they became “the canary in the mineshaft” for grape growers.  Science now tells us that this is not true.  Once the rose shows signs of phylloxera, the grape vine is already infected and it’s too late.

Phylloxera first appeared in Bordeaux in the 1860’s.  So why get so excited about a plague that took place >150 years ago?   Phylloxera is still with us.  Although modern science has found ways to deal with phylloxera, the louse continues to mutate.  A different strain of phylloxera wreaked havoc on Napa Valley in the 1980’s when it destroyed thousands of acres of vineyards.  This  “sleeping giant” lies in wait and certainly gives new meaning to “dying on the vine.”