Can You Taste the Earth Move?

                    Burgundy's Grand Cru hills were created by earthquakes

Some of my favorite wines from around the world are from soils that were created by cataclysmic earthquakes.  The most famous earthquake vineyards are probably those in Burgundy.  Millenniums ago a tremendous earthquake in the area created Burgundy’s Grand Cru vineyards.  The limestone of the Cote’d’Or (the “golden hill”) was forced out of the bowls of the earth by such a seismic event.

Not far from Burgundy are Alsace’s vineyards---they were also created by an earthquake.  The small wine town of Ribeauville sits almost on top of one of the main fault lines.   In fact, there are two main fault lines that criss-cross with several smaller ones in Alsace.  This may be a reason why there is a huge difference among wines that come from vineyards that are relatively close together---different soils have brought to the surface from varying fissures in the earth’s crust.

Further south in France are the earthquake vineyards of Gigondas located in Provence.  But, earthquake vineyards aren’t limited to Europe.  New Zealand was created from powerful underwater earthquakes that caused the seafloor to push up.  Located at the intersection of two of the world’s major tectonic plates, both islands of New Zealand are earthquake in origin.

Let’s not forget the American continents.  The San Andreas fault in California is responsible for the soils of the Central Coast and Napa/Sonoma.  Chile has produced some of the largest earthquakes in the world (a 9.5 in 1960 and the more recent 8.2 in 2014).  The movement of this same tectonic plate millenniums earlier created the Andes, the world’s longest chain of mountains.  Both California and Chile are known for wines created from these earthquake vineyards.

While there is no scientific evidence that fault-line vineyards directly affect the quality of the wine, there is thought that geology does play some kind of role.  For example, it is known that shifting faults lines not only juxtapose different types of bedrock in the soil, but that they affect ground water and can form valleys.  Indirectly, this can effect micro-climates which do have a profound effect on the wine.

Wines of Provence

                               Provence offers many charms, including its wines

I'm on my way to Italy after a star-studded two weeks in Provence.  When many think of Provence they flash on images of colorful outdoor markets and fields of lavender.  Yes, I experienced these vistas during my stay but when I think of Provence I think of its wines---its true unsung heroes.  While I love Provence's Rosés, I’m really enamored with its spicy, full-flavored reds, as well as its elegant, tropical whites.  Hands down, these wines are some of the most underrated in France.  While most serious wine lovers know Chateauneuf-du-Pape, they may not be aware of the equally elegant wines of Bandol, or of Provence’s great quality/price ratios like the area of Vacqueyras and Gigondas.   Let’s examine the “non-pink” wines of Provence beginning with terroir, and then move on to its grapes.  

Provence is located in the South of France and the Rhone River, which cuts through it on its way to the nearby Mediterranean, exerts a tremendous influence on the terroir.  Vineyards nearest the river have mineral-rich soil washed down from the Alps.  Summers are hot due to beaucoup sunlight, so there’s no problem ripening grapes. Mighty mistral winds keep pests at bay.

Red grapes, which thrive in the heat, are dominant in Provence.  Varietals such as Syrah and Grenache are most popular.  Another “Rhone varietal” is Mouvedre. These three grapes often are blended together, in fact, they are often referred to as a trio by the name “GSM,” an acronym of all their first letters. While red wine accounts for about 35% of Provence’s production, white wine is 15% (the remaining 50% is  Rosé).  Major white grapes include Marsanne, Roussane, Viognier and Rolle (known as Vermentino in Italy).  Like the reds, white varietals are blended rather than vinified as a single varietal.

Provence’s superstar reds are from the village of Chateauneuf-du-Pape.  Located very near the Rhone River, Chateauneuf-du-Pape is known for its vineyards filled with large stones left from the flooding river. These stones provide superb drainage and reflect back the heat in Provence’s cold winters.  My favorite producers are Chateau Beaucastel and Chateau La Nerthe.   These are gorgeous, voluptuous, complex reds and whites….so wonderful that they make you forget all about their steep prices.

Further south is the tony little wine area of Bandol.  Located just a few miles from the Mediterranean, these elegant wines are an exception to the blending norm throughout other areas of Provence.   They are mainly made from Mouvedre and many are 100% varietal.  Check out Chateau Pibarnon and Domaine Tempier for some killer wines.

For a great quality price ratio consider the Provence villages of Gigondas and Vacqueyras.    Here are some great reds from the 2015 vintage well worth searching out:

• Famille Perrin, Gigondas, L’Argnée Vieilles Vignes
• Domaine Raspail-Av, Gigondas
• Montirius, Gigondas, Confidentiel
• Domaine Le Sang des Cailloux, Vacqueyras, Cuvée de Lopy

Looking for a terrific white from Provence?  Below are some wonder-filled options...and the first one is worth every Euro:

• Domaine Pibarnon, Bandol
• Clos Sainte Magdeleine, "Bel-Amre,"  Cassis

Onward to a seaside villa with Wine-Knows on Tuscany's Mediterranean...

2013: Le Crème de la Crème

This year’s best-of-the-best is filled with many wines that I have known in previous vintages, but there are also several that I’ve never tried, along with some that I never knew existed.  The wines, ranging from $25 - $150,  represent four continents.  While I have had many wines this year that cost >$500, they don’t appear because the value for me just wasn’t there---and, to be honest, the $30 Chilean wine of Altair may have beat many of them in a blind-tasting.  I have included only wines that are available in the US.   (While I tasted many over-the-top wines around the globe, regrettably, several are not exported to the US and thus were not included.) 

The list appears in alpha order by country.  All wines represent significant value considering their quality.

California

·        Stonestreet Terrace Ridge 2011.  A blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, this 
     classical white Bordeaux pairing had me at “hello.”  I believe it’s the first time the 
     winery has produced it, but I do hope it’s not the last.  Thank you to our 
     neighbors, Lynne and John (both of whom are in the wine business), for 
     introducing us to this beautifully crafted wine. ($35)

·        Paloma Merlot 2008.   I had never heard of this Napa Valley winery, but  a
     friend of mine in-the-know had.  Since I’ve had it, other savvy wine folks have              sung the wine’s praises which makes me think, “Is San Diego that far from Napa          that I could have missed this gem?”  Thank you, Fred, for popping the cork on              this one!  ($65)

Chile

·        Altair Sideral 2009.   Altair produces only 2 wines, both of which are red Bordeaux blends.  Grown on the foothills of the Andes by a well-known French wine family, these wines are stunning.  For the ’09 vintage, Sideral (their less costly one), stole the show.  In fact, I thought my glasses had been switched but the winemaker confirmed that the less expensive wine was my favorite for the first time in the last 9 years!  A real steal.  ($30)

·        Maquis Franco 2010.  Maquis produces stellar, high value wines.  This one is 100% Cabernet Franc (thus, it’s name).  The vines were planted >80 years ago by the winemaker’s grandfather who always thought that his land was perfect for the varietal.  Lafite-Rothchild’s just-retired winemaker was the consultant on the first vintage of Franco…and he agreed!  In fact, Lafite’s former winemaker recommended that it be bottled as a single vineyard wine. ($75)

France: 

•  Ployez Jacquemart d’Harbonville 1998.  Maybe it was the pairing with the scallops in a lobster sauce?   Maybe it was the private cande-lit dinner held for Wine-Knows in the home of the Champagne house’s owner?   I think I would have been just as ecstatic drinking it with tortilla chips in Mexico.  One of my fave producers, this was the best I’ve tasted from them.  ($150)

•   Chateau Le Nerthe White 2011.  Yeah, yeah, I know Chateauneuf de Pape is famous for its reds.   Listen to this red wine lover when I tell you that this one surpassed the tasting lineup of eight of the chateau’s best reds…which is saying something as the reds were fab. ($45)

• Domaine des Bosquets Gigondas Le Lieu Dit 2010.  For those of you who don’t know the southern Rhone’s Gigondas wines, you should.  Located near Chateauneuf de Pape, this producer had several stunning wines …this one, however, really grabbed me.  ($50)

New Zealand

•   Valli Dolce Vita Late Harvest Riesling 2011.  Not a Riesling fan?  Not a late harvest fan?  Doesn’t matter as this one is the bomb.  Our last night on this year’s reconnaissance trip to New Zealand we chose the restaurant based on if they carried this wine.  Need I say more?  ($50---available in 375 ml bottles)

•  Unison Pinot Gris 2011.  For those of you turning up your nose at a Pinot Gris because you’re thinking of some insipid Pinot Grigio from Italy, well…un-turn it!  This grape does wonders in New Zealand, and this winery’s rendition was dazzling.  ($25)

• Trinity Hill Tempranillo 2008.  We returned to the winery three times during our visit to New Zealand to buy another bottle of this one.  Crafted by one of the best winemakers in the country, it’s no wonder why this wine has won just about every Kiwi award there is.  ($30)

Best of Wine-Knows Harvest Trip to Champagne, Burgundy & the Rhone

Here's a summary of la creme de la creme from our September trip.  Superb quality/price wines have been so noted.


CHAMPAGNE:

~ Ployez Jacquemart 1998 d'Harbonville

~ Moet Grand Reserve 2003

BURGUNDY:

~ Jadot 2010 Mersault (white)   *GREAT VALUE*

~ Jadot 2010 Pommard (red)   *GREAT VALUE*

~ Drouhin 2009 Marquis Laguiche Grand Cru (red)

~ Domaine d'Ardhy 2009 Reynards Corton Grand Cru (white)

RHONE:

~ Domaine Bosquets 2012 Rose (Cote de Rhone) *GREAT VALUE*

~ Domaine Grand Devers Visan (white Cote de Rhone)  *GREAT VALUE*

~ Chateau Valdieut 2011 Clos Belvedere (Chateauneuf de Pape white)

~ Domaine Bosquets 2011 Reserve (Gigondas)

~ Chateau Beaucastel 2010 (Chateauneuf de Pape red)

~ Chateau Le Nerthe 2011 (Chateauneuf de Pape white)

The Rhone’s Holy Trinity

 

Grenache, Syrah and Mouvedre (aka GSM) are the Rhone’s sacred trio of grapes.  In the northern Rhone, Syrah dominates the blend in famous wines such as Hermitage and Cote-Rotie, however, in the southern Rhone Grenache leads the pack in the superstar wines from Chateauneuf du Pape where typically over 75% of the composition is Grenache. 

I love Grenache.  One of the most versatile red grapes in the world, Grenache thrives in hot, dry climates such as the Rhone, Spain (named Garnacha), California (sometimes referred to as Alicante) and Australia.  The varietal can produce wines that range from light to full-bodied; from simple, inexpensive wines that offer immediate satisfaction to complex ones that are cellar worthy and do not come cheaply.  Grenache is all about fruit…strawberries, blackberries, raspberries.  But, there can also be an interesting layering of spices such as allspice, cinnamon or pepper, as well as subtle nuances of floral notes. 

Syrah (also called Shiraz in Australia) was thought to have been brought by the Phoenicians, but  DNA testing now shows it to be indigenous to southern France.  Unlike Grenache, Syrah contributes firm tannins that make for powerfully flavored and full bodied wines.  However, similar to Grenache, it offers rich fruit flavors, but this time it’s black cherry, blackberry and plum.  Syrah also provides a beguiling spice profile of cloves, licorice, white or black pepper and even chocolate.  

Mourvedre (also known as Mataro in Spain and the US) tends to produce deeply-colored and tannic wines that can be high in alcohol.   Thought to be of Spanish origin, the varietal is mainly used in the Rhone for blending and is rarely vinified as a varietal except in the appellation of Bandol (just a few miles from the Mediterranean) where the cooling maritime influence can change it into a rockstar.  Mouvedre offers earth flavors such as leather, as well as dark fruit flavors.  There is often a patina of chocolate.

If you’re joining the Wine-Knows harvest tour this September you’ll have several opportunities to sample GSM in the famous southern Rhone appellations of Chateauneuf du Pape and Gigondas.  In 2015, Wine-Knows will be hosting its first-ever tour exclusively to the entire Rhone Valley.  Visits will include Hermitage, Cote Rotie and Condrieu in the north along with the southern part’s Chateauneuf du Pape and Gigondas.

A Crush on Gigondas

 

Say Gigondas (jhee - gohn - dahs) and I become giddy.  This small sleepy wine village in the heart of the southern Rhone makes wines by the same name that have me often times falling head-over-heels.   A red only district, its wines are infatuating, charming, and dare I say…sexy !

So what about Gigondas makes it so appealing?   The wines are a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mouvedre, the “Holy Trinity” of the Rhone’s south.  (This special trio is also used in Chateauneuf du Pape).  Gigondas wines typically have a higher concentration of Grenache.  The best Gigondas are the red fruit-drenched ones tempered with layering complexities of mineral and herbs.  Think big, brawny, meaty meets savory. 

It’s not just the taste profile, however, of Gigondas that is beguiling.  The best crafted examples boast a voluptuous texture.  Silky, rich, creamy.  Like I said, “You had me at Gigondas.”

On this fall’s harvest tour we will visit the village of Gigondas where all of its 700 inhabitants are seemingly involved in something to do with the business of wine.   Located on a hill overlooking Provence’s breathtaking landscapes, Gigondas is a charmer filled with cobble-stone streets, elderly men playing boules on the central square, and numerous shops selling guess what?  Gigondas.

Leave it to my husband, Toby, to introduce me to Gigondas.  Toby has been a long-time admirer of these wines.  I still remember the first bottle he ordered years ago at a restaurant in France ---a seductive Chateau Crayon.   Many years later, both Toby and Crayon are still my favorite crushes.