Time to Stop & Smell the Rosés

Summer is around the corner.  I can smell the roses blooming in the garden but I’m also yearning to smell summer’s Rosé in my glass.  Rosés can be made from any red skinned grape.  Their aroma and taste profiles vary depending upon the grape varietals that are used, the terroir in which the fruit is grown, and the style of the winemaker.  Below are examples of what to generally expect from four different varietals commonly used for Rosé, as well as stylistic elements of the world’s largest Rosé producing area, Provence.

Pinot Noir Rosé

Pinot Noir grapes have the lowest amount of pigment of all the red grapes, thus in general Pinot-based Rosé is lighter in color than others (although it all depends upon the amount of time the winemaker left the juice in contact with the skin).  Flavors of strawberry or raspberry are of often present.

Syrah Rosé

As Syrah is the most highly pigmented dark grape, these Rosés can be deep in color if left to marry with the grape juice for any length of time.  Syrah Rosé typically offers both fruit and savory notes:   strawberry and cherry can be mixed with white pepper and olive nuances.

Cabernet Rosé

Like Rosés made from Syrah, Cabernet can vinify a deeply colored Rosé due large amounts of color pigment in Cabernet skin.  Think cherry and black currant with touches of spice.

Tempranillo Rosé

One of the most common Rosés of warm weather Spain, Tempranillo can make a killer Rosé.   These Rosés often include a combination of fruity and savory notes:   strawberry, citrus and stone fruit, along with background notes of green peppercorn or fennel.

Provençal Rosé

This is a style of Rosé made in France’s southern region of Provence.  This area is one of the most famous Rosé producers in the world---nearly half of all of Provence’s wines are Rosé.   

Provence's Rosé are often a blend (rather than 100% varietal) of the region’s red grapes:  Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvedre, or Syrah.  They are typically very pale pink (or even coral) in color.   Flavors are dependent upon the types of grapes used.  The profile can vary from citrus to exotic fruits, from stone fruits like apricot or peach to berry flavors such as strawberries and raspberries.  Often times these Rosés also have a salty minerality.

Take some time to stop and smell the Rosés this weekend!

Wines of Provence

                               Provence offers many charms, including its wines

I'm on my way to Italy after a star-studded two weeks in Provence.  When many think of Provence they flash on images of colorful outdoor markets and fields of lavender.  Yes, I experienced these vistas during my stay but when I think of Provence I think of its wines---its true unsung heroes.  While I love Provence's Rosés, I’m really enamored with its spicy, full-flavored reds, as well as its elegant, tropical whites.  Hands down, these wines are some of the most underrated in France.  While most serious wine lovers know Chateauneuf-du-Pape, they may not be aware of the equally elegant wines of Bandol, or of Provence’s great quality/price ratios like the area of Vacqueyras and Gigondas.   Let’s examine the “non-pink” wines of Provence beginning with terroir, and then move on to its grapes.  

Provence is located in the South of France and the Rhone River, which cuts through it on its way to the nearby Mediterranean, exerts a tremendous influence on the terroir.  Vineyards nearest the river have mineral-rich soil washed down from the Alps.  Summers are hot due to beaucoup sunlight, so there’s no problem ripening grapes. Mighty mistral winds keep pests at bay.

Red grapes, which thrive in the heat, are dominant in Provence.  Varietals such as Syrah and Grenache are most popular.  Another “Rhone varietal” is Mouvedre. These three grapes often are blended together, in fact, they are often referred to as a trio by the name “GSM,” an acronym of all their first letters. While red wine accounts for about 35% of Provence’s production, white wine is 15% (the remaining 50% is  Rosé).  Major white grapes include Marsanne, Roussane, Viognier and Rolle (known as Vermentino in Italy).  Like the reds, white varietals are blended rather than vinified as a single varietal.

Provence’s superstar reds are from the village of Chateauneuf-du-Pape.  Located very near the Rhone River, Chateauneuf-du-Pape is known for its vineyards filled with large stones left from the flooding river. These stones provide superb drainage and reflect back the heat in Provence’s cold winters.  My favorite producers are Chateau Beaucastel and Chateau La Nerthe.   These are gorgeous, voluptuous, complex reds and whites….so wonderful that they make you forget all about their steep prices.

Further south is the tony little wine area of Bandol.  Located just a few miles from the Mediterranean, these elegant wines are an exception to the blending norm throughout other areas of Provence.   They are mainly made from Mouvedre and many are 100% varietal.  Check out Chateau Pibarnon and Domaine Tempier for some killer wines.

For a great quality price ratio consider the Provence villages of Gigondas and Vacqueyras.    Here are some great reds from the 2015 vintage well worth searching out:

• Famille Perrin, Gigondas, L’Argnée Vieilles Vignes
• Domaine Raspail-Av, Gigondas
• Montirius, Gigondas, Confidentiel
• Domaine Le Sang des Cailloux, Vacqueyras, Cuvée de Lopy

Looking for a terrific white from Provence?  Below are some wonder-filled options...and the first one is worth every Euro:

• Domaine Pibarnon, Bandol
• Clos Sainte Magdeleine, "Bel-Amre,"  Cassis

Onward to a seaside villa with Wine-Knows on Tuscany's Mediterranean...