Provence Beyond Rosé: The Underrated Reds

                 The village of Chateauneuf du Pape is a full immersion experience in wine

When many people think of Provence, they picture colorful outdoor markets and endless fields of lavender. I've seen these vistas during my many visits, but when I think of Provence, I think of its wines—its true unsung heroes. While I adore Provence’s rosés, I’m utterly enamored with its spicy, full‑flavored reds and its elegant, tropical whites. These wines are, hands down, some of the most underrated in France.

Most serious wine lovers know Châteauneuf‑du‑Pape, but they may not be aware of the equally refined wines of Bandol or the remarkable quality‑to‑price ratios found in Vacqueyras and Gigondas. Let’s explore Provence’s “non‑pink” wines, beginning with terroir and then moving on to its grapes.

🌿 Terroir

            The Rhone, along with the Mediterranean, has a tremendous influence on Provence's wine

Provence sits in the South of France, where the Rhône River cuts through the region on its way to the Mediterranean. Vineyards closest to it benefit from mineral‑rich soils and rocks washed down from the Alps. Summers are hot—thanks to beaucoup sunlight—so ripening grapes is never an issue. And the mighty mistral winds sweep through the region, keeping pests at bay and the air remarkably clear.

🍇 Grapes

                                   GSM is one of the hallmark blends in all of France

Red grapes dominate Provence, thriving in the region’s heat. Syrah and Grenache are the most widely planted, joined by Mourvèdre—another Rhône varietal. These three grapes are often blended together and affectionately referred to as GSM, an acronym of their initials.

🍷 Châteauneuf‑du‑Pape: Provence’s Superstar Reds

                At Chateau Beaucastel, Wine-Knows are taken to the vines to see rock-filled vineyards

Red wine accounts for roughly 35% of Provence’s production. The most prized are the celebrated reds come from the village of Châteauneuf‑du‑Pape. Located near the Rhône River, the area is famous for vineyards strewn with large stones—galets roulés—left behind by ancient flooding. These stones provide superb drainage and reflect heat back onto the vines during Provence’s cold winters.

My favorite producers are Château Beaucastel and Château La Nerthe. Their wines—both reds and whites—are gorgeous, voluptuous, and complex…so wonderful they make you forget all about their steep prices.

🌊 Bandol: The Mediterranean Jewel

                                             The Bandol appellation is on the Mediterranean

Further south lies the tony little wine area of Bandol. Just a few miles from the Mediterranean, Bandol’s wines are an exception to Provence’s blending tradition. They are primarily made from Mourvèdre, and many are 100% varietal. Seek out Château Pibarnon and Domaine Tempier for some truly killer wines.

💎 Gigondas & Vacqueyras: Quality Meets Value

                                     The tiny village of Gigondas is a Provence charmer

For exceptional quality at a fair price, look to the villages of Gigondas and Vacqueyras. Here are a few of the many standout reds: Famille Perrin, Gigondas, L’Argnée Vieilles Vignes and Domaine Le Sang des Cailloux, Vacqueyras, Cuvée de Lopy.

Next time you're buying wine, look beyond Rose and turn to the unsung heroes of the area, the Reds.

Chateauneuf du Papes ROCKS!

         Rocks carried down by ancient glaciers & the Rhone River define Chateauneuf du Pape's wine

The wines of Chateauneuf du Pape are among the most coveted in the wine world.  These are powerful, complex red wines that are made from GSM (Grenache, Syrah and Mouvedre---the area’s “Holy Trinity” of grapes).  Chateauneuf du Pape is located in the southern part of France's Rhone Valley, and the Rhone River plays an instrumental role in this wine region.  Rocks, washed downstream by the Rhone and deposited in Chateauneuf’s riverside vineyards, are critical to making these world-class wines.

In fact, the rocks of Chateauneuf du Pape are so important to its wine that the stones actually have their own name, galets.   These galets are remnants of Alpine glaciers that have been carried down over millennia by the Rhone River.  The constant churning by the Rhone is responsible for the galets’ smooth exterior. Often overflowing its banks, the Rhone has left in its wake vineyards that are often yards deep in these galet stones.  But, how can rocks be so important in making an outstanding wine?  Let me explain.

Rocks provide heat for ripening, drainage & erosion protection

Galets are a distinguishing feature of Chateauneuf du Pape’s wines and translate into the glass in several ways.  First, they are integral to the  to the ripening of the grapes, as well as promoting growth of vines.  By absorbing heat from the day’s sunshine, these rocks release this heat back to the vine during the cold nights---they are a kind of built-in heating system.  Second, galets provide excellent drainage thus are important for the vine's growth.  Chateauneuf’s subsoils consist of layers of smaller broken down pebble-like galets.  This stratum of earth affords a perfect drainage system for the vines. Furthermore, the galets protect the soil from erosion by the violent Mistral winds of southern France.

Underneath this top layer are several feet of tumbled stone

My favorite Chateauneuf du Pape wine?  That’s like naming a favorite child, but there are two that always float to the top of my list.  (By the way, this small wine district also makes some killer whites…and one of them is on my list!)

Chateau Beaucastel Red:  GSM (75%) with ten other Rhone grapes making up the remaining 25%.  $100-$500 depending on the vintage.

Chateau La Nerthe White:  Also a blend, this ethereal wine is made from four white Rhone grapes:  Grenache blanc, Roussane, Clairette and Bourboulenc.    $55-$75 and worth every cent.

Hope your weekend rocks.

Wines of Provence

                               Provence offers many charms, including its wines

I'm on my way to Italy after a star-studded two weeks in Provence.  When many think of Provence they flash on images of colorful outdoor markets and fields of lavender.  Yes, I experienced these vistas during my stay but when I think of Provence I think of its wines---its true unsung heroes.  While I love Provence's Rosés, I’m really enamored with its spicy, full-flavored reds, as well as its elegant, tropical whites.  Hands down, these wines are some of the most underrated in France.  While most serious wine lovers know Chateauneuf-du-Pape, they may not be aware of the equally elegant wines of Bandol, or of Provence’s great quality/price ratios like the area of Vacqueyras and Gigondas.   Let’s examine the “non-pink” wines of Provence beginning with terroir, and then move on to its grapes.  

Provence is located in the South of France and the Rhone River, which cuts through it on its way to the nearby Mediterranean, exerts a tremendous influence on the terroir.  Vineyards nearest the river have mineral-rich soil washed down from the Alps.  Summers are hot due to beaucoup sunlight, so there’s no problem ripening grapes. Mighty mistral winds keep pests at bay.

Red grapes, which thrive in the heat, are dominant in Provence.  Varietals such as Syrah and Grenache are most popular.  Another “Rhone varietal” is Mouvedre. These three grapes often are blended together, in fact, they are often referred to as a trio by the name “GSM,” an acronym of all their first letters. While red wine accounts for about 35% of Provence’s production, white wine is 15% (the remaining 50% is  Rosé).  Major white grapes include Marsanne, Roussane, Viognier and Rolle (known as Vermentino in Italy).  Like the reds, white varietals are blended rather than vinified as a single varietal.

Provence’s superstar reds are from the village of Chateauneuf-du-Pape.  Located very near the Rhone River, Chateauneuf-du-Pape is known for its vineyards filled with large stones left from the flooding river. These stones provide superb drainage and reflect back the heat in Provence’s cold winters.  My favorite producers are Chateau Beaucastel and Chateau La Nerthe.   These are gorgeous, voluptuous, complex reds and whites….so wonderful that they make you forget all about their steep prices.

Further south is the tony little wine area of Bandol.  Located just a few miles from the Mediterranean, these elegant wines are an exception to the blending norm throughout other areas of Provence.   They are mainly made from Mouvedre and many are 100% varietal.  Check out Chateau Pibarnon and Domaine Tempier for some killer wines.

For a great quality price ratio consider the Provence villages of Gigondas and Vacqueyras.    Here are some great reds from the 2015 vintage well worth searching out:

• Famille Perrin, Gigondas, L’Argnée Vieilles Vignes
• Domaine Raspail-Av, Gigondas
• Montirius, Gigondas, Confidentiel
• Domaine Le Sang des Cailloux, Vacqueyras, Cuvée de Lopy

Looking for a terrific white from Provence?  Below are some wonder-filled options...and the first one is worth every Euro:

• Domaine Pibarnon, Bandol
• Clos Sainte Magdeleine, "Bel-Amre,"  Cassis

Onward to a seaside villa with Wine-Knows on Tuscany's Mediterranean...