Sicily: the Original Fusion Cuisine

                               Eggplant was brought by the Moors of Tunisia to Sicily

Strongly influenced by its many conquerors (from the Phoenicians & Greeks, to the Arabs, the Romans, the Normans, and even the French & Spaniards), Sicily is a treasure trove of gastronomy.   Think of Sicily as a unique culinary quilt intricately woven by its position as the cultural crossroads of the entire Mediterranean.   

     Arancini (rice balls), one of Sicily's classical dishes, owes its culinary heritage also to the Moors

The Mediterranean’s largest island….and perhaps the most beautiful…Sicily is a mecca for food lovers.  Greek sailors arrived seven centuries before the birth of Christ and brought with them capers and olives.  In addition, the Greeks brought with them the know-how of turning milk into a soft cheese (think ricotta), along with grapes and wine-making skills.  Many of the foods classically associated with Italy such as olive oil, ricotta and vino have Sicilian/Greek roots. 

         Tomatoes were introduced to Italy by the Spaniards who brought them first to Sicily   

The Greeks weren’t the only Mediterranean maritime explorers in 700 BC.  The Phoenicians (modern day Lebanon), known for their seafaring and navigation, dominated commerce across the Mediterranean for a millennium.   Culinary contributions of these eastern nautical experts include durum wheat (what would Italy be without pasta?), lentils, figs and pomegranates.

         Sicily's foodie hallmark, caponata, is composed of Greek, Moorish & Spanish influences 

Fast forward nearly 1,200 years to the Moors from Northern Africa.  Tunisia is less than 100 miles from Sicily, thus the Moors had easy access to the Italian island.   Sicilian gastronomy has been enormously influenced by the Moors who brought rice, sugar cane, citrus, eggplants, melons, pistachios, almonds and pine nuts, as well as spices such as cinnamon, saffron, cloves and nutmeg.  The Moors also produced the first gelato in all of Italy when they married snow from the slopes of Mt. Etna with rosewater and cream.

           The Arabs brought pomegranates & the Moors introduced citrus to Italy via Sicily

The next group to leave their culinary mark on Sicily were the Normans in the Middle Ages.  Great sailors from northern European countries on the Atlantic, the Normans brought their knowledge of preserving fish in salt.  Over a millennium later, this knowledge of preservation is used in Sicily to preserve cod, sardines, anchovies, along with olives and capers.

The Spaniards also affected Sicily’s unique culinary landscape.  Spanish exploration of the New World brought to the island tomatoes, peppers, prickly pears and chocolate.

         French-influenced cassata, once made by Sicilian housewives, is a dying labor-intensive art

The last gastronomic influence on Sicily was France.   While the French rule of Sicily in the 19^th century was brief, it left a definite mark on Sicily’s food culture. Sicilian aristocrats employed French chefs in their kitchen where complex recipes were developed.  The greatest influence of France in Sicily was French-inspired pastries such as cannoli and cassata.  These two desserts remain Sicily’s trademark sweets.

   If you're coming with Wine-Knows, there will be many opportunities for cannoli...including breakfast

Sicily’s past conquerors have woven a vibrant gastronomic fabric unique to Sicily.  Wine-Knows' October tour is sold out, but if you have an interest in experiencing one of the world’s most fascinating foodie adventures, we do have a wait list.

Viva Sicilia!

Bordeaux’s Other Grape----Sauv Blanc!

                                           White wine in Bordeaux is an oxymoron for many

White wine from Bordeaux?   Some of you may be surprised that Sauvignon Blanc-based wines are produced in Bordeaux.  Those who aren’t, have either been on a Wine-Knows’ trip to Bordeaux, or are very savvy wine connoisseurs.   White Bordeaux wines account for only 7% of the area’s production and very little of it ever make it across the Atlantic.   Indeed, Sauvignon Blanc (Sauv Blanc) is Bordeaux’s secret grape.  

      The majority of Bordeaux's white wines come from Entre Deux Mers to the east of Bordeaux city

Sauv Blanc has its origin in France.  DNA researchers have actually traced its birthplace to the Bordeaux area.   Furthermore, DNA evidence has proven Sauv Blanc to be one of the parents of Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux’s Hail Mary red grape.  Centuries ago vineyards in France were all planted with a mixture of different red and white varietals in the same row.  Crossings between these different grapes in close proximity occurred in French vineyards and birthed new varietals.

   Chateau Roquefort expansive Sauv Blanc vineyards produce 4 different whites, including one that is                                                                        100% Sauv Blanc

Bordeaux’s Sauv Blanc in often mixed with Semillon, another white varietal, to create a blended wine known as Bordeaux Blanc (white).   Sauv Blanc is typically the majority of this blend.  Most wine aficionados know Sauv Blanc as an aromatic varietal. Depending on where it is grown, the varietal can offer different flavor profiles.   The cooler climate of Bordeaux, for example, serves up a palate of lemon & lime along with green apples.  With global warming, however, Sauv Blanc in Bordeaux is moving towards stone fruits and even tropical nuances.

Shrimp fishermen cast large nets from cranes throughout Bordeaux  

Last, Sauv Blanc-centric whites work well with Bordeaux’s local maritime food products.   Shellfish is a natural pairing with a white Bordeaux as the high acidity of a Bordeaux Blanc cuts through the fattiness of seafood (many of which are served with a cream sauce).  Lighter foods such as simple grilled fish also work with the area’s Sauv Blanc.

If you’re coming on the harvest trip to Bordeaux with Wine-Knows in September (sorry, but we’re sold out with a waiting list), you will have the opportunity to try Sauv Blanc at its birthplace.   In the meanwhile, why not pick up a bottle (either online or at a wine shop that has a great Bordeaux collection)?

 

Bordeaux City for Foodies & Wine-Knows

                 The city has pulled out all stops over the last 10 yrs to attract food & wine lovers
 

Bordeaux, in the not too distant past, was a culinary wasteland.   But, the city is now worthy of being the gateway to one of the most famous wine districts of the world.  Bordeaux has become a food lover’s paradise with a plethora of Michelin star restaurants, food-trucks, a cooking school for professional gourmet chefs, organic food stores, wine bars, craft beer pubs, and fusion foods.

Below are my suggestions for what not to miss:

Capuchin Market---Best Farmer's Market

                       If you're here at lunch-time, there are several spots to snag a bite to eat.

Conveniently located near the center of the city, Bordeaux’s biggest daily market is something every visiting foodie should visit.  You could spend hours strolling through the aisles of just-plucked-from-the-sea oysters, the splendor of Southwest France’s gastronomic produce, or a plethora of duck products from the nearby Dordogne Valley. 

 

L’Intendant Grands Vins de Bordeaux---Best Wine Shop

                                   As one proceeds up the stairs prices escalate with each floor

Located near the Opera House, this is nothing short of mind-blowing.  Looking for hard to find vintages or special bottles?  Look no further.

Canelé---Best Sweet Bite

                                          Every pastry shop in the city makes canelé

One simply cannot leave Bordeaux without at least one of the city’s hallmark sweets.  Canelé are carmelized treats like no other you’ll ever find.  They come in small sizes (about the size of a wine cork) so that you can have a taste without feeling guilty.  Or, if you’ve walked 10,000 steps you might want to consider the larger size of this culinary piece of Bordeaux’s history.  Developed 500 years ago by the Catholic nuns, these are a near religious experience.    Consider purchasing  one at either Baillardran or La Toque Cuivree, both known as among the best in the city.

Au Petrin Mossagais---Best Historical Spot for Foodies

               Baking bread since the mid 18th century, this is truly a step back in gastronomic time

This boulangerie’s ovens were first fired up during the reign of Louis XV and the same recipes are used today.    Located between the Opera House and the Cite du Vin, Bordeaux’s oldest boulangerie is an historical institution worth a visit for the smells alone coming from their wood-fired ovens.   (Check with your Concierge to see if the boulangerie is still open....I've heard it may have closed.)

Cite du Vin---Best for Modern Architecture

    There are inside exhibitions, a cafeteria & a wonderful view of Bordeaux from its top floor

It’s a very long walk from the downtown along the waterfront, so one of Bordeaux’s snazzy trams are suggested.  "The City of Wine” is the Guggenheim of wine.  Built by Frank Gehry, it’s worth going if nothing more than viewing its architecture up close.  Wine tasting was lame when I visited, but go and enjoy the architecture.

The Wine-Knows' tour to Bordeaux this September is sold out with a waiting list but we still have 2-3 openings next year for the Truffle Festival & Lake Como. 

Truffle Itinerary – Wine-Knows Travel 

Michelin Stars: A Changing Galaxy

 
           Bordeaux's 2 star Michelin restaurant, Lalique, offers a myriad of luxurious trappings

A Michelin-starred restaurant probably brings to mind linen tablecloths, fine  china, sumptuously upholstered chairs, extensive wine lists, as well as exorbitant prices, but the Michelin galaxy has shifted on its axis.   While luxurious trappings once appeared to be part of Michelin’s criteria, the gastronomic behemoth has altered its measures to focus solely on quality of food. 

In short, The Michelin Guide now awards its stars to chefs offering outstanding cooking.   While the identity of Michelin judges granting these stars is a deeply guarded secret, the company openly states they now take into account the following criteria:

          ~ Quality of ingredients

          ~ Harmony of flavors

          ~ Mastery of food preparation techniques

          ~ Personality of the chef as expressed through his/her cuisine

          ~ Consistency of the food

          ~ Value for the money

                  A Michelin star taco stand in Mexico City serves its meals on plastic plates

Forget the crystal chandeliers, over-the-top floral arrangements, impeccable service, extravagant artwork and disregard the term “restaurant.”  Although Michelin stars are indeed still granted to opulently appointed restaurants offering astronomically priced food and wines, the above new measures based solely on food quality has ushered in a once unthinkable cadre of intergalactic VIPs.   Michelin has granted a coveted star to a street food vendor in Thailand, a food stall in a Singaporean mall where meals are served on plastic plates, a ramen noodle joint in Tokyo, and even a taco truck in Mexico. Better yet, two Michelin stars have been given to a simple dim sum restaurant in China.  

A new stellar landscape has been birthed.   How exciting to see what a different orbit in our global culinary world will bring.  May the force be with us.

Vietnam’s Coffee is an Art Form

            This Vietnamese coffee mogul's company has grown to nearly $350 Million US
 

After a long international flight followed by an iffy night’s sleep in Hanoi, I remember heading down to the hotel’s breakfast room where I found my three girlfriends guzzling pots of coffee.  This was more than a decade ago but I still remember they were all raving about the terrific coffee.  I’m very picky about coffee but I was hooked at first sip.

When breakfast was over I asked the server what brand the coffee was and where I could buy it.   Seems the coffee Gods were looking down on me as the hotel agreed to actually sell me a bag.  The only issue was that it came in large commercial packaging.  No problem.  I bought the equivalent of ten pounds and carried them throughout Vietnam, then on to Australia, and back to the US.  I never regretted lugging a single coffee bean.  This stuff was the bomb!

           Wine-Knows will stop for a coffee in Hanoi at one of the city's original coffee houses

There is something very different about Vietnamese coffee.  When I first tasted it I remember being surprised by nuances of chocolate and even nuttiness.  (BTW:  I’m not one for any type of flavored coffee.)   I’ve since learned that there is a miniscule amount of chocolate but the real difference is that Vietnam grows an entirely different bean.  Most American coffee uses the Arabica bean, Brazil’s Holy Grail.  Vietnam, however, uses the more earth flavored Robusta bean.  (Italian espresso often contains Robusta in the mixture of beans to provide a full-bodied drink.)   Furthermore, Vietnam roasts its beans at very low temperatures over a long period of time, allowing it to develop complex flavors.

Coffee was brought to Vietnam in the 1800’s by the French who colonized it until the 1950’s.  Today, Vietnam is the second largest producer of coffee on the planet, surpassed only by Brazil.   Walk around downtown Saigon and you’ll notice immediately that coffee is big business:  sleek modern coffee houses abound and are loaded with upmarket crowds.  Even retail shops selling everything from clothing to electronics have large displays of packaged coffee for sale.

                                   Coffee is sold in nearly every type of store in Vietnam

Thankfully Vietnamese coffee is now available in the US---seems I’m not the only one who is hooked.  Amazon now offers more than 20 brands of Vietnamese coffee.  Furthermore, many American coffee brands have added a “Vietnamese-style” coffee to their offerings.

Wine-Knows’ 2026 tour to Vietnam sold out on the first day of marketing, but we are accepting folks on a wait list.  In the meanwhile, you can still get your Vietnamese morning Joe fix by ordering online, or looking for Vietnamese-style coffee at a local spot.

What Country Has the Best Bread in the World?

This country has >3,200 different types of bread!

The answer may surprise you.   I’m guessing the majority of you are saying France, but that would be non.   While the French baguette has a je ne sais quois international brand appeal connoting everything from the Eiffel tower & Notre Dame to elderly men donning berets & pedaling a bicycle with crusty baguettes tucked under their arms, when one really gets down to the "dark" truth, the French baguette can be wonderful but, the best bread on the planet comes from Germany.

Germany?  No, I haven’t lost my marbles and it’s not just my opinion.   In 2015 German bread was officially added by the United Nation’s cultural arm (UNESCO) to the organization’s world heritage list.  If you’ve not been to Germany, you may disagree, however, consider this:  Did you know that Germany has more varieties of bread than any other country in the world?   According to the German Institute for Bread (of course there is such a thing in this bread-centric country), there are more than 3,200 types of bread officially recognized in Germany.  Many of them are dark in color and not made with wheat flour.

Breakfasts feature a multitude of healthy breads such as this one in Dresden during the Xmas markets.

France is estimated to have a few hundreds of bread types, so why does Germany have exponentially more?   One reason is due to Germany’s fragmented history up until the 19^th century.  Until that time, what is now known as Germany was a multitude of tiny kingdoms, all with their own distinct culture, dialect, customs, and with their own bread specialties.

The Middle Ages gave birth to today’s iconic German rye bread.  Known for its hearty texture and robust flavors, rye-based bread was especially popular in the northern kingdoms as rye was easier to grow than wheat in the north’s colder weather.  In the early 1500’s many of the southern duchies passed a law prohibiting the use of wheat for any other purpose other than beer.  This further paved the way for rye, spelt, barley and a host of other whole grains for bread use.  Quintessential German breads such as pumpernickel became part of Germany’s culinary history at this point.

                                   Bakeries in Germany offer mind-boggling options.

Germans were way ahead of the current health trend for organic whole-grain breads.   Germany doesn’t have the same amount of sunshine as Italy or France, and many areas in spite of global warming are not conducive to growing wheat.  Nutritious grains such as rye (an edible grass seed that is turns bread dark brown) and spelt (an ancient high protein whole grain which creates dark bread), however, can be easily grown even in the northernmost parts of Germany.

The truth about Germany’s breads:  there is a colossal number of choices and many of them are dark colored breads.  Not only are these dark breads significantly more healthy, but they offer wonderful flavors of nuttiness with chewy interiors.

Ya vol!

Mascarpone, Crème Fraîche (CF), Cream Cheese or Sour Cream: Which One?

With the holidays rapidly approaching, it’s a good time to investigate the difference between four food products that are especially popular during the hedonistic holiday season.  How do they compare?  Can they be substituted for one another?  What are their price differences?   In terms of health, which one is the best choice?

                 Mascarpone is an important component of Tiramisu's wildly rich texture & flavor

Let’s start first with the one with the highest saturated fat content, (up to 75% butterfat), Mascarpone.  This unctuous Italian triple-cream cream cheese is made from extra rich cream.   Lactic acid is added, allowing the cream to separate into a watery substance, leaving behind a luxuriously decadent “cheese” with a voluptuous velvety texture. Pricewise, Mascarpone costs more than the others but it’s in a league of its own for adding richness, a luscious texture, and an intense buttery flavor.

                                         CF can be added to hot dishes without curdling  

The closest substitution for Mascarpone is CF (or English clotted cream if you can find it.)  CF, as its name suggests, has culinary roots in France.  Made from heavy cream, this decadent, nutty and tangy dairy product is produced by adding a bacteria culture to ferment or "sour" the cream (e.g. buttermilk or yogurt can be used as the starter).   CF can vary from as little as 20% to 45% fat depending upon the fat content of the initial cream used and the saturated fat of the bacteria culture).

CF has an advantage that lower fat sour cream and cream cheese do not:  it can be used in both hot and cold foods.  Because of its higher fat content, CF will not curdle, making it a great choice for elevating the richness of hot dishes.

                          A baked potato with sour cream is a near perfect American classic 

Sour cream (usually 20% fat) has nearly half the fat of CF and only one-fourth the fat of Mascarpone.  It is less versatile than CF and Mascarpone because it curdles when added to hot foods.  Sour cream's flavor is definitely tangy and if that's a flavor profile the dish can accommodate, then it's a good choice.  The reasonable price of sour cream, also, may make it a good choice to add a creamy profile to dishes.

                            Cheesecake is a real splurge...but it's the holidaze so why not? 

Last, is the ubiquitous cream cheese.  A made-in-America product, cream cheese is becoming more and more popular overseas perhaps due to its more reasonable price and thicker consistency.  Like all other products discussed in this article, cream cheese is made by the fermentation process, however, unlike the others, cream cheese is made from milk and cream.  It’s fat content is 30% making it fatter and richer than sour cream, but less rich than the others.

Cream cheese's flavor is somewhat benign when compared to the other three dairy products which are all tangier.  If all you have is cream cheese but want to amp up the flavor, mix it with a little goat cheese.  Or, if you simply want to elevate the richness, mix it with a little whipping cream.

In review, the four items listed in the title begin with the highest fat products first.  Per ounce, Mascarpone is the most expensive and cream cheese generally is the least expensive.  Which one to use for the holidays?  Depends on the richness and texture you're seeking...and what you're willing to give up health-wise to get it.