One of My Most Requested Recipes

                                             Homemade margaritas are worth the effort

Just this last week cookbook author, restaurant-owner and chef extraordinaire Donna Nordin of Tucson was in my home conducting Southwestern cooking classes to a sell-out crowd.  While Donna was putting the finishing touches on her Tortilla Soup, Grilled Duck in Mole and her Chocolate Mousse Pie featured on the cover of Bon Appetit,  I served margaritas.  Out of  the many requests I receive for recipes, my margaritas are one of the most frequent.  There are a couple of reasons I believe they are especially good.  

The first secret is I use a combination of freshly squeezed citrus.  While limes are the brass section in this orchestra, lemons provide support with percussion.  Oranges add not only some natural sweetness, but also interesting notes to the concert.  

The second important factor is good liquor.  While expensive, aged tequila should never be used in margaritas, a respectable tequila is vital.   I always use one made from 100% agave.   Suggestions include Milagro, El Jimador, Azul or  Espolon---all are moderate in cost.  A good quality liquor also includes the orange liquor.  Forget the supermarket’s insipid Triple Sec…in fact, forget Triple Sec from any store!    Instead, opt for Cointreau or Gran Marnier---very little is used per drink so the 10-fold price does not translate to much per serving.    

My recipe below, honed after >50 trips to Mexico, does not make super strong margaritas, so if you want something with a real punch, increase the Tequila (but keep the Cointreau or Gran Marnier the same).

• Step 1:  Citrus mélange:   squeeze  a ratio of 10 : 2 :1 citrus (e.g. 20 limes, 2 lemons, and 1 medium orange).    For 2 margaritas, squeeze 1 cup of citrus juice.

• Step 2:  Make a simple syrup from a 1:1 ratio of sugar and water.  (e.g. 1 cup of sugar + 1 cup of water----place in a pan and cook for a few minutes until sugar dissolves well).

• Step 3:  Make a “citrus-ade” using a ratio of 1:1 of combined citrus juice and the simple syrup.  (Save any left over simple syrup in the frig for   another batch of margaritas---it keeps for months).

• Step 4:  Rim a glass with a wedge of lime, dip the rim in kosher salt.

• Step 5:  Add ice cubes.

• Step 6.  Pour in 1 cup of the citrus-ade.

• Step 7:  Add ¾ cup of Tequila and ¼ cup of Cointreau or Gran Marnier and stir well.

• Step 8:  Stir well and top with a lime slice.

Viva Mexico!

Tortilla Español---New World with Old World Heritage

                                            Classic tortilla Español with Spain's Piquillo peppers

Tomorrow I’m conducting a Spanish cooking class in Florida.  For the appetizer I’m demonstrating Spain’s tortilla Español (a quasi-omelette filled with potatoes and onions).  The tortilla, which appears on every restaurant’s menu, is also a mainstay of every tapas bar in the country.  The best rendition of this traditional starter that I have ever had (after more than a dozen trips to Spain) was in the Ribera del Duero wine country.  I was so impressed with this version that I talked the chef into sharing his recipe during a cooking class the following year when I returned with a group.

How Spaniards named their most popular dish the tortilla has always puzzled me.  Spain’s cuisine does not use traditional tortillas.  In fact, Spaniards had never even seen corn until the Conquistadors arrived in Mexico.  I recently heard a story that makes a lot of sense to me and it goes something like this… 

The Aztec Empire made flat rounds of yellowish bread from ground corn.  Spanish explorers were taken with this new flavored bread, but had no such word in their vocabulary to describe it.  As it reminded the Conquistadors of the omelette in their native homeland (round in shape and yellow in color), the Spaniards gave this unknown bread the name “tortilla” as it looked similar to the tortilla back home Spain. According to this theory, the Mexican tortilla was actually named after the potato omelette in Spain, based on its association of shape and color.

Here’s the actual recipe I cooked today which I learned during the professional cooking class in Spain some years ago from chef Pedro.  The only thing I changed was the addition of my beloved Piquillo peppers from Spain (very mild, smoky, flavor-chocked red peppers, now thankfully available in the US).

• 2 lbs potatoes, sliced thinly
• 2 cups extra virgin olive oil (can be used later for sauteeing other items)
• 6-7 eggs (depending on size)
• 1 lb onions, sliced thinly  (white or brown)
• 1-2 cloves minced garlic (depending on size)
• 8 oz jar of Piquillo peppers, drained & cut into strips
• Salt and Pepper to taste

Directions:

Place olive oil in a skillet and heat to a moderate temperature (do not get it anywhere ner smoking level or it will oxidize).  Add the potatoes and cook for 30 minutes on moderate heat, allowing potatoes to slightly brown on all sides.  Remove and drain on paper towels.  Next, sautee the onions in olive oil over moderate heat, cooking about 5 minutes.  Lower the heat, add the garlic and continue cooking for another 5 minutes. Remove and add to the drained potatoes.  Strain the olive oil and refrigerate for later use.

Beat the eggs in a bowl with salt and pepper.

Return back 2-3 tablespoons of the strained oil to a non-stick skillet.  Heat the oil to a moderately high heat (but again avoid that smoking point.)  Add the egg mixture and turn down the heat immediately.  Next, add the potatoes, onions and strips of Piquillos...making sure all of these items are submerged in the egg mixture.  Cook over moderately low heat until the top of the tortilla is almost set.  Put a large plate over the skillet and then turn the skillet over quickly so that the tortilla slips on to the plate.  Turn up the heat, add a few more tablespoons of oil to the skillet, immediately lowering the heat once again.  Cook an additional 5 or so minutes until the tortilla is totally cooked through.

Typically a tortilla Español  is served at room temperature in a wedge shape.  While it is often served as a tapa, it can also be served as an entree---a simple mixed salad is a perfect accompaniment.

Viva España!

Best of Cabo

I’m just returning from January in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico.   I rented an apartment and did something I have never done---I did not cook one lunch or dinner for the month.  I grew up on Mexican food and think of myself as somewhat of an expert, so I made it my personal mission to seek out Cabo’s best.  Here’s what floated to the top of my list:

Best Overall Restaurant

                                                               Tortilla soup like no other you have ever had

Hands-down the winner was Misiones di Kino.  This place rocked on food quality, atmosphere and service.  If you want authentic cooking, Mexican charm and a lovely garden setting, this is your place.  Do not miss their complex tortilla soup (the best I have ever had),  and the sublime flan (a yummy mixture that tasted somewhere between a typical light flan and a cheesecake. According to the owner, this special recipe has been in his chef's family for generations).  Their chile relleno was also a standout, and margaritas were one of the best in town.  Can’t praise this place enough.  A real gem.  http://www.misionesdekino.com/

Best Atmosphere:

 Tropicana was a real fave

A foodie-in-the-know friend of mine recommended Tropicana to meet for dinner.  Knowing her, I knew the place would have good food, but what awaited me was one of the best surprises I've had in a long while.  Located just off of San Jose del Cabo's historic main square, Tropicana was the most atmospheric spot I've dined in Baja California.  I felt like I had stepped back to elegant 1920's supper club in Manhattan, but in the style of an old hacienda. It's swanky, it's sexy and it's electric...all in an understated way.  All 6 persons who I dined with loved their classical Mexican cuisine, and I particularly enjoyed the table-side service on their delicious caesar salad.  A definite do not miss.   http://www.tropicanainn.com.mx/

Best Setting:

                                                            Hacienda y Cocina offers the best overall venue

This one was a no-brainer:  Hacienda y Cocina.  There’s no better place in town to watch the sunset than in this quietly elegant and super sexy beachside spot.  Be sure to reserve for a table on the outside terrace.  My favorites were their shrimp (Camarones Baja) and their marinated grilled skirt steak (Arrachera) served with the world’s most scrumptious avocado salad.  The drop-dead gorgeous setting, refined atmosphere and excellent service more than justify the slightly higher prices.  Actually, all considered, it’s a bargain.

http://haciendacocina.com/

Best Local Color

                                                                                          Don't miss Maria's

And the Oscar goes to…Maria Jiminez!  Maria’s former tiny restaurant was so successful that she recently expanded into the corner building next door.  I love this place.  It oozes character…from the colorfully dressed woman making handmade tortillas right in front of you,  the attractive local art on the walls, and the beautiful handmade ceramic plates that food is served on, it’s all a good-vibe.  The food is very good with the chile rellenos being the star of the show.  My only complaint is the margaritas…strongly recommend you opt for the sangria or one of their beers.

https://www.facebook.com/mariajimenezcabo

Best Hole in the Wall

                                                                                   High quality, low cost

Los Claros has 3 spots in Cabo, an attestation to its immense popularity.  There’s one in the Wyndham Hotel complex, however, my beloved spot is its simplest place located across the street from the Paradiso shopping center atthe end of the Marina, on the town’s main drag.  The shrimp tacos were the best in town, and the salad bar for the taco toppings was an added bonus.  Best value in town.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Tacos-Los-Claros/178134578877626

Caesar is NOT Italian

I am still south of the border working on my Mexican tan, eating plenty of local giant shrimp and taking long walks on the beach daily.  Last night at dinner in an upscale restaurant over-looking the sea I heard the next table of diners lamenting that Caesar salad was on the menu, “The restaurant reviews indicated that this was the best quality and most authentic cooking in town.  Can you imagine that they have put a Caesar salad on the menu?”  I didn’t feel it was my place to correct them but the Caesar salad actually originated in Mexico.

The Caesar salad was created in Tijuana, Mexico in 1924.  Caesar Cardini, an Italian immigrant operated a restaurant just across the border from San Diego.  It was the era of Prohibition and many Californians flocked to Tijuana for the 4^th of July to enjoy a weekend with liquor.  Caesar’s restaurant ran out of most foods due to the overwhelming crowds…but people kept coming.  Apparently not much was left in the kitchen but some lettuce, eggs and bread.  Caesar made the smart decision to make the most of what he had by adding Italian olive oil, lime juice, Worcestershire, garlic and mustard.  To make up for the lack of ingredients, he decided to make the salad table-side…a bit of culinary theater.  The dramatic flair worked and the salad became a staple on Caesar’s menu from that moment on.

Julia Child said she ate a salad at Cardini’s restaurant when she was a child.  The first, however, documentation of the salad was at Lawry’s House of Prime Rib in Beverly Hills shortly after World War II.

Here’s my often-requested recipe, a mélange of several:

 3 cloves garlic

1 teaspoon salt

3 anchovies

½ teaspoon eachTabasco & Worchestershire

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 ½  tablespoon  red wine vinegar

*1 coddled egg (yolk only)

1 teaspoon coarsely freshly ground pepper

1 cup extra virgin olive oil

Place all the above ingredients, with the exception of the oil, in a cuisine-art and mix thoroughly.   Then,  with the cuisine art running at full speed, VERY slowly drizzle the olive oil (this should take at least 1-2 minutes, otherwise the oil will not incorporate well and the mixture will separate.)

Last, add ½ cup *freshly grated* Parmiggiano-Reggiano (don’t substitute!) and stir well.

Serve with homemade croutons and 3 heads of romaine.  Top salads with grated parmigiano-reggiano.   (Serves 4 persons a generous portion.) 

* Coddling is necessary to prevent salmonella.  Boil egg for 1 minute to raise interior temperature & kill any salmonella. 

Hail Caesar!  Viva Mexico!