Cherries & Olives !

                                 Olives & cherries are definitely a Michelin-star combination

I have my dear friend, Linda Birnie, to thank for gifting me an exquisite jar of OLIVES & CHERRIES.  The recipe was developed by Michelin-star Spanish chef José Andrés (many of you may know him for his Herculean humanitarian efforts in founding the World Central Kitchen, a non-profit devoted to providing meals in the wake of natural disasters).  I fell in instant amor with the unusual pairing and immediately made several jars.

I was surprised to learn after a little research that olives and cherries are actually related.  They belong to a botanical group called "drupes."   In this same family are also apricots, mangoes and peaches, as well as almonds, pecans and pistachios.

                                          This tapa came together in only a few minutes

Last night I served the olive & cherry recipe at a Spanish dinner party in our home with goat cheese and a sliced baguette.  It was a big hit.  A couple of weeks ago I used it as a side dish with BBQ chicken & roasted potatoes---magnifico! 

Here's the recipe.   Gracias Linda and a big olé to chef José Andrés! 

Cherries & Olives 3 cup pitted cherries  2 cup pitted olives (e.g. arbequina, manzanilla, or kalamata) 1/2 of an orange peel  1/2 of a lemon peel 2 cloves garlic, smashed 2 sprigs fresh rosemary 3 sprigs fresh thyme 1 bay leaf (fresh preferred) 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil (or more!) 1/2 cup aged sherry vinegar 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt Wash the cherries, remove stems & pits.   With a vegetable peeler, remove half of the outer peel from the orange & lemon. Smash the garlic and remove outer skin. Combine all the ingredients together in a mixing bowl.   Cover with plastic wrap and marinate for 4 hours at room temperature or overnight in the fridge.  (If refrigerated, allow the mix to come to room temperature before serving for the best flavors.)

Pesto from Beet Greens

                                     Beet green pesto is a serious competitor for the basil version

If you’re hesitating at all about the possibility of making pesto from the green tops of beets, don’t.   First, a much higher proportion of a beet’s nutritional value is found in its upper green top (think mega antioxidant Vitamins C, A and K, along with minerals and lots of fiber).   Equally important, however, beet green pesto is stunningly delicious and gives the traditional basil version a serious run for its money.

Beets in a rainbow of colors are plentiful in autumn, winter and even spring months.  Regardless of color or variety, the beets’ upper greens all make divine pesto.   Beet green pesto can be used exactly like conventional pesto in pastas, sides, or even mains.  That being said, here are some of my favorite ways:

• During the cold months when tomatoes are not at their best, I make a version of Caprese using cool-weather beets in their place, goat cheese rather than mozzarella, and beet green pesto: same color profile, but a whole new flavor spectrum…equally compelling.

• Changing up my avocado toast by substituting a dollop of beet pesto & some sun-dried tomatoes.

• Swirling a small amount in a bowl of hummus—it looks beautiful and perfectly compliments the complex hummus flavors.

• Since I have the beets, why not use them in an open-faced vegan sandwich with and beet green pesto?

· 

Drum roll please for the recipe!

~ 5 well-packed cups of beet greens

~ ¼ cup walnuts (brown them in a pan stovetop to give more depth of flavor)

~ 1/3 cup Parmiggiano-Reggiano, grated

~ 2-3 cloves of garlic (depending on size)

~ 1 teaspoon of lemon zest

~ 1 tablespoon of lemon juice

~ 1-2 anchovy fillets (or salt to taste…but the anchovy provides a definite depth of flavor)

~ ½ cup of EVOO

 

Directions:

Mix everything but the EVOO in a blender or food processor.  Once thoroughly blended, dribble in oil, teaspoon by teaspoon with engine running, to well incorporate the oil.

 

Have a green & healthy New Year!

A Perfect Way to Say Love on Valentine’s

                                                  Julia Child's pear tart screams amour

Any cupid should be thrilled to finish a Valentine’s Day meal with this delectable tart from Julia Child’s first cookbook, Mastering the Art of French Cooking.   What’s not to love about perfectly ripe pears that have been simmered in red wine, and then magically combined with an almond cream filling and a shortbread cookie crust?  

Julia Child composed this recipe in the late 1950’s at a villa in Provence in the south of France not from the Mediterranean Sea.   Pears still remain one of Provence’s prized autumn fruits.   Julia, however, may have first learned about pear tarts when she was a student in Paris at the prestigious Cordon Bleu during the late 1940’s.    After all, the “city of light” had been famous for its pear tarts since the turn of the century.

But, Julia’s version is not just any pear tart.  Madame Child ups the flavor ante by cooking her pears first in red wine with a stick cinnamon.   The result is a more intense flavor profile, and its bright lipstick-red color should appeal to young and old lovers alike for a special ruby red valentine dessert.   

In September 2022 Wine-Knows has leased the very villa in which Julia wrote her two hallmark cookbooks.  We have only two spots remaining.  For more details on this food and wine homage to Julia, check out our website:

http://www.wineknowstravel.com/julia-2022-1-itinerary/

BTW:  Julia’s pear tart recipe can be found on page 642 of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume I.   If you don’t have a copy, there are several online versions, but the following one is almost a dead-ringer for Julia’s original.  (Note:  while I prefer bosc pears, any ripe pear will suffice.)    

https://moderndomestic.wordpress.com/2009/12/14/holiday-desserts-julia-childs-pear-tart/

Wishing you a love-filled Valentine's....

New Years “Shellabtration”

                                      Herb roasted crab is our favorite way to celebrate

My husband and I were married on the millennium at midnight.  Every New Year’s Eve we celebrate our anniversary with a big fire in the fireplace and indulge with Dungeness crab at a candlelit table fireside.  I look forward to this dinner all year long.  A friend of mine (thanks, Rita!) gave me a great recipe for crab that has now become a standard in our home.   This divine rendition is roasted on high heat in the oven…and is absolute perfection for a cold winter’s night special "shellabration."

Ingredients

2 crabs (try for crabs >2 lbs each)

1/3 cup EVOO

4 cloves of garlic

Bunch of chopped thyme

1 tspn fennel seeds

1 tspn salt

1 tspn red pepper flakes

Directions

Place the crabs in huge pot of boiling water and when it returns to a boil cook for 3 minutes.  Remove the crabs and cool slightly.  Clean the crab and crack.  Preheat your oven to 550 degrees. 

In a food processor, add all the remaining ingredients.  Placed cleaned and cracked crab in a large roasting pan and cover well with the olive oil and herb mixture.  Roast for 5-8 minutes until brown and bubbling.

Serve with a loaf of scrumptious French bread, and a Pinot Noir or Chardonnay (we indulge with both by popping the cork of a great Champagne made from both of the grapes).

Happy shellabration…Happy 2018!

Seeing Red for the Holidaze

                                                     Holidaze at the Dunn household

There’s no better shade of red for this season than that of luscious Red Bell Pepper Soup.  Served in a clear glass bowl, it can be a wonderfully colorful first course for your holiday table.   It’s not only divinely delicious, but it’s healthy and low in calories.  Moreover, red bell peppers are plentiful this time of year. 

Ingredients:

6 roasted bell peppers (do not use store bought, jarred peppers)

3 carrots, grated

4 shallots, chopped

1 pear diced

1 clove garlic, minced

3 Tablespoons of olive oil

3 Tablespoons of butter

4 Cup of chicken stock

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper seeds

Salt and pepper to taste

Directions:

Blacken peppers over an open flame or under the broiler (turning constantly to the other side once they are black).   Place in paper bag to steam off the skins.  Let them rest for 20-30 minutes to cool for handling.  Remove skin and seeds (do not rinse them under any water as this removes wonderful oils and flavors from the peppers).

Place carrots and shallots in a large skilled with butter and EVOO and cook for 10 minutes.   Add peeled and seeded peppers, along with the remainder of the ingredients and bring to a boil.  Turn down heat to a simmer and cook for 5-10 minutes.  Puree in blender.   Season with salt and pepper.  Serve with a drizzle of basil oil or fresh green herbs for holiday color.   (Serves 6-8)

Bon appetit.   Happy Holidaze.

A Special Valentine’s Dessert

                                                              This cake is Southern Living’s most requested recipe

If you’re looking for a scrumptious way to celebrate Valentines, I’ve got just the recipe for you.  I had my first bite of this ethereal cake in Charleston two years ago when I took a group of Wine-Knows to Savannah and Charleston.  One of my clients ordered it at dinner and made the mistake of giving me a taste.  It was love at first bite.  I tracked down the next day the bakery , bought a huge piece (which I devoured on the spot), and have been a fan of the “Hummingbird Cake” ever since.

If you like homemade carrot cake (the moist version with pineapple and coconut), you’ll love this dessert.  Think carrot cake meets a great rendition of banana bread.  Published in Southern Living in 1978, Hummingbird Cake is the most requested recipe in the magazine’s <50 year history.  Over the years the cake has garnered a plethora of awards, including First Place at the Kentucky State Fair.  Just about every women’s Community Cookbook in the South has at least one recipe for this famous sweet.  Google currently offers nearly a million recipes---including one by the Queen of Southern cooking, Paula Deen.  There are even Hummingbird Cake videos on U-tube.

In spite of this cake being so strongly associated with the South, Hummingbird Cake actually originated on the island of Jamaica.  It appears the recipe was part of a marketing ploy in 1968 when Jamaica Airlines was launched.  The airline’s press package included various items about the island’s culture in hopes of enticing tourists to come to Jamaica.  Part of that press kit was the Hummingbird Cake, named after the island’s national bird.

Here’s the original recipe published in Southern Living: 

http://www.myrecipes.com/recipe/hummingbird-cake-0

Have a sweet Valentine’s!

Hearts of Palm Salad

                                                 A wonderful winter (or summer!) salad

I’m working on the finishing touches of Wine-Knows upcoming trip to Chile & Argentina.  Hearts of palm are a big deal in both countries and every day my lunch is a fresh hearts of palm salad (it’s usually served with a simple vinaigrette and tomatoes).   While fresh hearts of palm are unavailable in the U.S., Trader Joe’s and Costco carry the product canned.  Check out this  scrumptious salad, one of my most requested recipes.   

Serves 6-8 persons

Ingredients for Vinagrette:

• Small clove of garlic
• 1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves (stems removed)
• 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon lemon zest
• 1/2 teaspoon sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 cup good quality EVOO

Salad Ingredients

• 14 oz jar of hearts of palm
• 4 medium ripe, but firm, avocados
• 1 small red onion
• 1 head of Romaine lettuce
• Optional:  if its tomato season, I sometimes add bite size pieces

Make the Vinagrette:  

Mix first 5 ingredients in a food processor, then slow drizzle in the olive oil with machine still running.

Assemble the salad:  

Drain hearts of palm and cut into bite size pieces.  Place in salad bowl, along with thinly sliced red onion.  Cut each avocado into about 6-8 pieces (as you toss the salad, the avocados will disintegrate a little, so start with larger pieces).   Add avocado and head of Romaine torn in bite size pieces.  Mix in salad dressing and gently toss.  Adjust for salt and pepper. (Add leftover Turkey for a main course salad).

Bon provecha!

Minestrone Better than in Italy!

       Ring in the New Year with this extravagant soup!

January for many of us means taking off those extra pounds we've put on over the holidaze.  Moreover, New Year's resolutions often include recommitting to living a healthy lifestyle with routine exercise and healthy eating.  This soup fits the bill perfectly for weight loss and health.  Oh, yeah...did I mention that it is outrageously good?

Chocked full of flavor, this take on an Italian vegetable soup promises to please even the most discerning gourmet.  To add a little more richness, I throw in my Christmas turkey carcass.  If that's not an option, you can also add just a turkey leg.  For absolutely killer complexity, add a smoked piece of meat (preferably chicken or turkey, however, a piece of lean smoked pork would also work.)

Ingredients:

• 1/3 lb. pancetta, finely chopped
• 3 medium onions, chopped
• 6 celrey ribs, chopped
• 1/3 cup EVOO
• 1 bunch Swiss chard
• 6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 28 oz can of chopped or whole tomatoes, including juice
• 3 Qrts water
• 5 cups of Savoy cabbage, coarsely chopped
• 5 cups of escarole, coarsely chopped
• 1 head of parsley, chopped
• 1 piece of Parmigiano-Reggiano rind
• 2 cans of cannellini beans, including their liquid (19oz cans)
• Optional:  grated Parmigiano-Reggiano & chopped basil

Directions:

Cook pancetta, onions, celery, and carrots in oil in a large, heavy pot over medium heat, stirring only occasionally so that vegies develop some carmelization.  In the meanwhile, cut out stems from chard and chop stems (set aside chopped leaves for later).  Stir chard stems into pancetta mixture with garlic, 1 teaspoon of salt and 3/4 teaspoon of pepper.  Continue cooking, stirring occasionally until tender and begins to stick to bottom of pot (about 45 minutes.)

Push mixture to side of pot, adding tomato paste to cleared area. Cook, stirring constantly until paste begins to carmelize (about 2 minutes.)  While paste may stick to pot, don't let it burn.

Break up tomatoes and add them and their juice.  Add water, scraping up any brown bits from the bottom of the pot.  Bring to a simmer.  Stir in cabbage, escarole, parley and cheese rind.   Simmer, covered, until green are tender (about 30 minutes).

Add chopped chard leaves and beans to soup, simmering partially covered about 10 minutes.  Adjust salt and pepper to taste.  For a splurge, add to top of soup bowls grated cheese and freshly chopped basil.

This recipe easily serves 10.  With El Nino bearing down, the soup is a perfect healthy treat for a cold and rainy winter's night.

Buon appetito!

One of My Most Requested Recipes

                                             Homemade margaritas are worth the effort

Just this last week cookbook author, restaurant-owner and chef extraordinaire Donna Nordin of Tucson was in my home conducting Southwestern cooking classes to a sell-out crowd.  While Donna was putting the finishing touches on her Tortilla Soup, Grilled Duck in Mole and her Chocolate Mousse Pie featured on the cover of Bon Appetit,  I served margaritas.  Out of  the many requests I receive for recipes, my margaritas are one of the most frequent.  There are a couple of reasons I believe they are especially good.  

The first secret is I use a combination of freshly squeezed citrus.  While limes are the brass section in this orchestra, lemons provide support with percussion.  Oranges add not only some natural sweetness, but also interesting notes to the concert.  

The second important factor is good liquor.  While expensive, aged tequila should never be used in margaritas, a respectable tequila is vital.   I always use one made from 100% agave.   Suggestions include Milagro, El Jimador, Azul or  Espolon---all are moderate in cost.  A good quality liquor also includes the orange liquor.  Forget the supermarket’s insipid Triple Sec…in fact, forget Triple Sec from any store!    Instead, opt for Cointreau or Gran Marnier---very little is used per drink so the 10-fold price does not translate to much per serving.    

My recipe below, honed after >50 trips to Mexico, does not make super strong margaritas, so if you want something with a real punch, increase the Tequila (but keep the Cointreau or Gran Marnier the same).

• Step 1:  Citrus mélange:   squeeze  a ratio of 10 : 2 :1 citrus (e.g. 20 limes, 2 lemons, and 1 medium orange).    For 2 margaritas, squeeze 1 cup of citrus juice.

• Step 2:  Make a simple syrup from a 1:1 ratio of sugar and water.  (e.g. 1 cup of sugar + 1 cup of water----place in a pan and cook for a few minutes until sugar dissolves well).

• Step 3:  Make a “citrus-ade” using a ratio of 1:1 of combined citrus juice and the simple syrup.  (Save any left over simple syrup in the frig for   another batch of margaritas---it keeps for months).

• Step 4:  Rim a glass with a wedge of lime, dip the rim in kosher salt.

• Step 5:  Add ice cubes.

• Step 6.  Pour in 1 cup of the citrus-ade.

• Step 7:  Add ¾ cup of Tequila and ¼ cup of Cointreau or Gran Marnier and stir well.

• Step 8:  Stir well and top with a lime slice.

Viva Mexico!

Caesar is NOT Italian

I am still south of the border working on my Mexican tan, eating plenty of local giant shrimp and taking long walks on the beach daily.  Last night at dinner in an upscale restaurant over-looking the sea I heard the next table of diners lamenting that Caesar salad was on the menu, “The restaurant reviews indicated that this was the best quality and most authentic cooking in town.  Can you imagine that they have put a Caesar salad on the menu?”  I didn’t feel it was my place to correct them but the Caesar salad actually originated in Mexico.

The Caesar salad was created in Tijuana, Mexico in 1924.  Caesar Cardini, an Italian immigrant operated a restaurant just across the border from San Diego.  It was the era of Prohibition and many Californians flocked to Tijuana for the 4^th of July to enjoy a weekend with liquor.  Caesar’s restaurant ran out of most foods due to the overwhelming crowds…but people kept coming.  Apparently not much was left in the kitchen but some lettuce, eggs and bread.  Caesar made the smart decision to make the most of what he had by adding Italian olive oil, lime juice, Worcestershire, garlic and mustard.  To make up for the lack of ingredients, he decided to make the salad table-side…a bit of culinary theater.  The dramatic flair worked and the salad became a staple on Caesar’s menu from that moment on.

Julia Child said she ate a salad at Cardini’s restaurant when she was a child.  The first, however, documentation of the salad was at Lawry’s House of Prime Rib in Beverly Hills shortly after World War II.

Here’s my often-requested recipe, a mélange of several:

 3 cloves garlic

1 teaspoon salt

3 anchovies

½ teaspoon eachTabasco & Worchestershire

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 ½  tablespoon  red wine vinegar

*1 coddled egg (yolk only)

1 teaspoon coarsely freshly ground pepper

1 cup extra virgin olive oil

Place all the above ingredients, with the exception of the oil, in a cuisine-art and mix thoroughly.   Then,  with the cuisine art running at full speed, VERY slowly drizzle the olive oil (this should take at least 1-2 minutes, otherwise the oil will not incorporate well and the mixture will separate.)

Last, add ½ cup *freshly grated* Parmiggiano-Reggiano (don’t substitute!) and stir well.

Serve with homemade croutons and 3 heads of romaine.  Top salads with grated parmigiano-reggiano.   (Serves 4 persons a generous portion.) 

* Coddling is necessary to prevent salmonella.  Boil egg for 1 minute to raise interior temperature & kill any salmonella. 

Hail Caesar!  Viva Mexico!

Easter Lamb

Lamb Burger at Wairu River Winery in New Zealand

Yesterday was Easter and I often associate the holiday with lamb.  I’ve been dreaming of a lamb burger with carmelized onions that I had over a month ago at Wairu River Winery on the New Zealand Wine-Knows tour.  I had this same burger two years prior when my husband and I were in Kiwi-land scoping out possibilities for a future trip.  I’ve fantasized about that doggone lamb burger for such a long time that I decided yesterday to re-create it.

Thankfully during my last visit I made sure I spoke with the winery's chef about how it is made as there’s something I couldn’t quite put my finger on about its unique flavors. The secret appears to be in the 24 hour marinade.  I’m now gladly sharing the recipe as I know that the 14 people on the recent tour who also ordered it (and raved about it) will be making it pronto.

Ingredients:

1 large shallot, minced finely

½ cup chopped fresh mint (don't even think about the dried version)

1 Tablespoon red wine

1 lb. high quality ground lamb

Salt & pepper

Carmelized onions*

1 heaping Teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves

1-2 Tablespoons olive oil

Preparation:  Mix the first 5 ingredients above 24 hours in advance and place in frig.  The following day form the lamb into 2 patties and grill.  Place lamb in buns, top with carmelized onions (and add garnishes such as lettuce & mustard as you prefer).  Or you can forget the bun and eat just the meat with the carmelized onions on top.

*For the onions I used a mélange of 3 large shallots, 1 medium sweet red onion, 1 large Maui onion, and 1 medium white onion.  Remember the trick to carmelizing onions is  LOW  AND SLOW.  Heat a skillet (preferably cast iron as it conducts heat best) with a few tablespoons of olive oil on low, and toss in the onions.  Do *not* stir them often as this disrupts the carmelizing process.  In about 15 minutes salt & pepper  them and add a tablespoon of fresh thyme.  Continue cooking---they should be done in about 30 minutes.

Brie…a Cheese with a Royal Past

                           Brie smoked on a cedar plank with roasted red peppers & herbs

In 1814 brie won the award for the best cheese in Europe.  While today it is one of the world’s greatest and most popular cheeses, brie has an ancient noble heritage.  During the French Revolution, Louis XVI’s last wish was supposedly for one final taste of brie.  More importantly, when Charlemagne was Emperor in the 8^th century, brie was known as the “King’s cheese.”

Brie is named after the region in which it was originally made, near the town of Meaux, <40 miles east of Paris.  Called “Brie de Meaux” cheese from this area was granted an important protection of its origin by the French government in 1980 when it was awarded  a coveted A.O.C. (Appellation d’origine controlee).  Now only cheese from this district can be called brie in all of Europe.

Made entirely from cow’s milk, brie is 45% fat which accounts for its creamy, butter-soft taste and texture.  When perfectly ripe (a period of at least 40 days), it should be soft and flavorful, not runny or pungent.   The cheese’s white rind may be eaten---or not---it’s a personal choice of taste.

The real version of brie (Brie de Meaux) is rarely seen in the U.S. because it is made with unpasteurized milk---this cheese can only be exported to the US after it is aged for at least 60 days.  A cousin of Brie de Meaux, Fromage de Meaux, is made from pasteurized milk for export markets and is often seen in the US masquerading as brie.

The only way for Americans to experience perfectly ripened Brie de Meaux is to travel outside the country.  As the town of Meaux is situated near the Champagne wine area, participants on the September 2013 tour will have opportunities to taste the authentic version.  In the meanwhile, here is the recipe for the best brie dish I have ever tasted:

Brie on a Cedar Plank

Ingredients:

·        6 inch wheel of brie

·        1 head of peeled garlic

·        ½ C olive oil

·        1 green onion

·        1 roasted & peeled red bell pepper

·        1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

·        2 tablespoons fresh thyme

·        2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

·        1 cedar plank for grilling

Directions:

• Soak the cedar plank in water (weighted down) for at least 4 hours to ensure it doesn’t burn when placed on the grill
• Place peeled garlic cloves in a small pan with the olive oil and cook on low until garlic gets soft and a little brown (about 20 minutes.)  Drain and let cool.
• In a food processor place the garlic, green onion, roasted red pepper, thyme, balsamic, and pepper…process until all ingredients are combined
• Cut the top skin off the brie (most easily done if brie is very cold) and place it on the drained cedar plank
• Cover the brie with the topping, piling it on liberally
• Grill on a BBQ over medium high heat, cooking till the brie begins to melt

How to Use Zucchini Blossoms

August is only a few days away which means the height of the season is approaching for one of my favorite edibles…zucchini flowers.   While by summer’s end most people are sick of zucchini, I never tire of its fabulous blossoms.   Yet, I’m always surprised at the number of shoppers who ask me at the farmer’s market, “What in the world will you make with them?”  Seems like even many of those that buy them often don’t know how to cook them.  I, on the other hand, have several ways to create culinary magic with these gems.

Let’s start with the basics.  First, zucchini flowers come in male and female.  Both males and females can be used in cooking, however, if you buy the blossom with a squash attached, you will need to cook them separately as by the time the zucchini is done the flower is way overcooked.  Next, be sure to choose blossoms that have not yet opened.  This is not only a sign of freshness, but it also makes the possibility of a bug less likely.  Last, blossoms are very perishable---use them within 3-4 days from the day they were picked.

How to prepare them?  I have several wonderful recipes but my fave is the way I first learned to eat them on the island of Capri in the 1970’s…sautéed in olive oil.  After taking a class in Italy solely on zucchini flowers and much experimentation in my kitchen, I think I’ve perfected this method.  My batter includes 3 parts cornstarch to 1 part flour.  I use a dark beer to liquefy it to the consistency of pancake batter.  Use extra virgin olive for sautéing as its flavor is a huge part of the final product.  Top with sea salt and you’ll have a little piece of heaven in your mouth.

If you’re fortunate to be growing zucchini, you’ll need several recipes to get you through August.  The simplest method I love is merely chopping up the raw flowers in a quesadilla with a little jack cheese.  Another winner, which I had at a Michelin star restaurant in the Rhone Valley of France, is stuffing the raw flowers with a little ricotta and fresh herbs, baking them in the oven until just brown, and serving with a fresh tomato coulis (your garden should also have an abundance of tomatoes by summer’s end.)

Cheers to summer and zucchini flowers!