Tapas

                                                 Tapas is an art form in Spain

We are on our way to Spain in a few days and I’m already dreaming of tapas.  Synonymous with appetizers, the word tapas is Spanish in origin.  The name (meaning “cover” or “lid”) is thought to have been coined centuries ago when patrons were served a glass of sweet sherry prior to a meal with a slice or ham or a piece of bread on top.  The food acted as a cover to prevent fruit flies from swarming over the sweet wine.   Tapas have now morphed into an international phenomena.  On a recent trip to Vietnam tapas appeared on the menu of a swanky restaurant.

                        Tortilla Espanol (a potato omelette) is ubiquitous in tapas bars

Tapas make a perfect first night meal for jet-lagged travelers.  Bodies that are totally out of biological sync can ease into the new time zone with tidbits of these lighter foods, versus a heavy three or four course meal.  Yes, most tapas bars require standing, but for travelers who have been sitting mega hours on transatlantic flights this is probably a good idea.  Besides, tapas bars are fun, exhilarating, and are known for the art of conversation---how can one not converse with others in a crowded tapas bar with glorious food?   For me, the whole tapas scene provides the perfect welcome to Spain.  

                        The Bullfighters Bar (aka Torre del Oro) is a must experience

I usually fly into Madrid and make a bee-line to the Plaza Mayor.  The Bullfighter’s Bar is always a great first stop because of the friendly bar men serving the tapas (they will also make you a special order of padron peppers, one of my favorite starters on any continent).  

                          The refurbished Mercado in Madrid is ground zero for upscale tapas

A block away is a quite sophisticated spot for tapas, the Mercado San Miguel.  Once the old food market for downtown Madrid, this now super trendy spot has been entirely renovated and is now filled with  upscale food stalls and high-end tapas bars.  The crowd is definitely the young and beautiful with lots of Euros to spend on French Champagne by the glass or caviar- topped-tapas. 

                                          Txakoli's smoked salmon (left), crab (right) 

My favorite tapas bar in Madrid, however, is <10 minute walk from both of the above places.  Txakoli (at #42 Calle Cavas Baja, a tiny pedestrian only street in a residential area) is a huge cut above everything else and offers the best quality/price ratio.  I try to time my visit for the moment the doors open (7 or 8 pm depending on the time of year).  This place feels like a neighborhood spot to me and the clientele is young and hip.  The tapas are killer---don’t miss those made from crab or salmon.  Wine choices are limited but decent. 

                                                 Best buck (per piece) I know 

Another favorite tapas bar of mine is in the Rioja wine district in the town of Logrono. They only serve one tapa here and it’s grilled mushrooms.  Funghi lovers will be in heaven.  The line often snakes out the door.   Bar Soriano...look for their sign in the shape of a large mushroom over the front door.

                    Most of Palma's traditional bars are in the old streets near the cathedral

This year we’ll be flying into Palma de Mallorca.   Our tapas crawl will be in the cobble-stone streets of the old town (where we’ll be staying overnight before heading to Ibiza for several days).  We’ll be heading to traditional tapas spots. (I don’t want Asian-inspired tapas, tapas with a French flair, or any other fusion-type tapas).   Here’s my list:   Bar Espana, Bar Dia, and Taverna Boveda.  But, a great way to find the best tapas is simply to wander, check out the food, and choose the most crowded spots filled with locals rather than touristas.

Olé!

Not-to-Miss Foods in Spain

The travel season is approaching.  If you’re heading to Spain here are some of the country’s culinary dishes you should seek out.

                                         Gazpacho is almost an art form in Spain

Gazpacho, a refreshing cold tomato soup, originated in Spain’s mucho hot southern region.  Today, however, the dish is now ubiquitous throughout Spain.  The nicer the restaurant, the fancier the presentation of accompaniments (finely diced cucumbers, white onions, bell peppers, croutons and extra virgin olive oil) .

                                                      Paella is a time intensive labor of love

Paella is an impressive rice entree cooked with saffron.   Every province has its own variation;  along the sea it’s filled with seafood;  inland it’s meat and or poultry; sometimes it's a mixture of both land and sea.  The vegetable ingredients are also dependent upon the region and many times include green beans or artichokes.

                                        The classical Tortilla is one of the most common dishes of Spain

Tortilla Espanol is on the menu of every tapas bar and most restaurants.  This dense potato omelette (which has no relationship to the Mexican tortilla) is served in slices.  It’s a great choice for vegetarians who often find eating in meat-centric Spain difficult.  In its best form, the tortilla can be sublime. 

                               While these padrons were stuffed with chorizo, the best version just may be plain

Padron peppers are about the size and color of jalapenos, but that is where the similarity ends.   Padrones are very mild and sweet.  They are typically sautéed in olive oil & topped with sea salt.  Served in both tapas bars and restaurants, this is one of my husband’s and my favorites.

Piquillos are addictive...especially these filled with crab

Piquillo peppers are becoming increasing popular in the US (Trader Joe’s is even carrying them now).  These very mild red peppers are roasted over open fires, deskinned, and then packed in a jar.   Piquillos are great stuffed with fish, cheese or meat, however, I often eat them plain, or add them to salads or sandwiches.

Membillo is made from quince

Membrillo is the best fruit preserve you’ll ever have.  Thickened and then formed into a block, it’s often eaten on toast for breakfast, but it’s also added to many Spanish pastries and cakes.  The most ethereal way to eat membrillo, in my opinion, is paired with one of the country’s mild cheeses as a dessert.

                                                     This special ham is pure nirvana

Iberico ham is not a dish but a product, however, no list of Spanish culinary masterpieces would be complete without paying homage to this fabulous food.   Made from a special breed of black pigs that graze on acorns, this is the pinnacle.  (Note:  I lean heavily to being a vegetarian, but I’m wild over this).

Bon viaje!   (Happy travels)

Tortilla Español---New World with Old World Heritage

                                            Classic tortilla Español with Spain's Piquillo peppers

Tomorrow I’m conducting a Spanish cooking class in Florida.  For the appetizer I’m demonstrating Spain’s tortilla Español (a quasi-omelette filled with potatoes and onions).  The tortilla, which appears on every restaurant’s menu, is also a mainstay of every tapas bar in the country.  The best rendition of this traditional starter that I have ever had (after more than a dozen trips to Spain) was in the Ribera del Duero wine country.  I was so impressed with this version that I talked the chef into sharing his recipe during a cooking class the following year when I returned with a group.

How Spaniards named their most popular dish the tortilla has always puzzled me.  Spain’s cuisine does not use traditional tortillas.  In fact, Spaniards had never even seen corn until the Conquistadors arrived in Mexico.  I recently heard a story that makes a lot of sense to me and it goes something like this… 

The Aztec Empire made flat rounds of yellowish bread from ground corn.  Spanish explorers were taken with this new flavored bread, but had no such word in their vocabulary to describe it.  As it reminded the Conquistadors of the omelette in their native homeland (round in shape and yellow in color), the Spaniards gave this unknown bread the name “tortilla” as it looked similar to the tortilla back home Spain. According to this theory, the Mexican tortilla was actually named after the potato omelette in Spain, based on its association of shape and color.

Here’s the actual recipe I cooked today which I learned during the professional cooking class in Spain some years ago from chef Pedro.  The only thing I changed was the addition of my beloved Piquillo peppers from Spain (very mild, smoky, flavor-chocked red peppers, now thankfully available in the US).

• 2 lbs potatoes, sliced thinly
• 2 cups extra virgin olive oil (can be used later for sauteeing other items)
• 6-7 eggs (depending on size)
• 1 lb onions, sliced thinly  (white or brown)
• 1-2 cloves minced garlic (depending on size)
• 8 oz jar of Piquillo peppers, drained & cut into strips
• Salt and Pepper to taste

Directions:

Place olive oil in a skillet and heat to a moderate temperature (do not get it anywhere ner smoking level or it will oxidize).  Add the potatoes and cook for 30 minutes on moderate heat, allowing potatoes to slightly brown on all sides.  Remove and drain on paper towels.  Next, sautee the onions in olive oil over moderate heat, cooking about 5 minutes.  Lower the heat, add the garlic and continue cooking for another 5 minutes. Remove and add to the drained potatoes.  Strain the olive oil and refrigerate for later use.

Beat the eggs in a bowl with salt and pepper.

Return back 2-3 tablespoons of the strained oil to a non-stick skillet.  Heat the oil to a moderately high heat (but again avoid that smoking point.)  Add the egg mixture and turn down the heat immediately.  Next, add the potatoes, onions and strips of Piquillos...making sure all of these items are submerged in the egg mixture.  Cook over moderately low heat until the top of the tortilla is almost set.  Put a large plate over the skillet and then turn the skillet over quickly so that the tortilla slips on to the plate.  Turn up the heat, add a few more tablespoons of oil to the skillet, immediately lowering the heat once again.  Cook an additional 5 or so minutes until the tortilla is totally cooked through.

Typically a tortilla Español  is served at room temperature in a wedge shape.  While it is often served as a tapa, it can also be served as an entree---a simple mixed salad is a perfect accompaniment.

Viva España!