Empanadas from Chile & Argentina

  Beef, onion & egg empanadas cooked in an outdoor wood-fired oven

One of my favorite culinary treats I’m waiting for on the upcoming tour to Chile & Argentina are empanadas (em pon naw duhs).  Many countries have their unique version of a stuffed bread or pastry—in the U.S. we call it a “turnover,” in Italy it’s a calzone, in China they refer to it as a pot-sticker, and in India it becomes a samosa.  In Central and South America it takes its name from the Spanish verb empanar (which means to wrap or coat in bread) and is called an empanada. 

Brought by Spaniards and Portuguese settlers to Latin America in the 17^th century, the empanada in this part of the world is made from bread dough stuffed with meat, cheese, vegetables or fruits.  While wildly popular, they are now served in homes only on special occasions because of the work involved in making them.  Shops specialize in making empanadas in the larger cities and they are available with many flavors and fillings, both savory and sweet.

In Argentina empanadas may be served as an appetizer or as the main course.  The dough is usually wheat flour and the fat is from beef due to Argentina’s mammoth beef industry.  Fillings, however, vary from province to province.  In the wine region of Mendoza, the stuffing is typically hand-cut beef with onion & hard boiled egg, however, in other areas olives & raisins may be added to chicken or ham.  Along Argentina’s vast coastline, empanadas can be made from seafood or fish.

Argentina’s empanadas are usually baked, however, they can be fried.  My favorite Argentinean version is served at the Zuccardi winery (http://www.familiazuccardi.com).  The dough is extremely light, a kind of melt-in-your-mouth affair.  The flavor is colossal because they are baked in an outdoor oven fueled with all kinds of wonderful woods that enhance not only taste but their aroma.  Clients coming on the tour with us are guaranteed to have these ethereal morsels when we visit the Zuccardi family for a glorious Sunday luncheon.

A highlight of the trip will be actually learning how to make empanadas in Argentina.   We have arranged a cooking class at the Culinary Institute in wine country.  The empanadas will be savory ones that will be served as tapas to begin our dinner, however, the recipe can easily be adapted to serve as an entrée, or changed to include fruit and morph to a dessert.

We will also have several renditions of empanadas in Chile.  Chilean versions have a wide range of fillings but the three most popular are beef, seafood or cheese.  These are considerably larger than the Argentine variety, usually with one empanada being enough for a meal.

My favorite place in Chile for an empanada?  Hands down it goes to the private catered dinner we’ll be having at the Montes winery (http://www.monteswines.com/en/).  The setting will be a mountain-top open-air dining room with a panoramic view of the setting sun over the entire Colchagua valley.  The beef empanadas will be cooked over a wood fire and served as appetizers… with a glass of one of Montes’ killer wines.  Viva la empanada!

Burgundy's Grape Varietals

In contrast to many regions in France, there are only a few grape varieties that are grown in Burgundy.   Moreover, unlike several other French wine regions, Burgundy varietals are rarely blended.  A general rule of thumb is if it’s white, it’s made from 100% chardonnay; if it’s a red Burgundy, it’s 100% Pinot Noir (one of the few exceptions, is Gamay, which is used almost exclusively in the Beaujolais district of Burgundy).

Chardonnay grapes account for nearly half of Burgundy’s vineyards. (Up until recently, this variety was thought to have originated in Burgundy, however, DNA testing shows that the two parent grapes of Chardonnay are the indigenous French Pinot Noir, and the Croatian grape Gouais Blanc.)  If it is an expensive Burgundian white, you can bet that it is pure Chardonnay.

Burgundian Chardonnay is known simply as “white Burgundy.”   These Chardonnays have minerality notes.  (This is not surprisingly as 70 million years ago Burgundy was a seabed and the petrified remains of a multitude of shellfish from this ancient sea floor have created Burgundy’s premier limestone soils---the cause of the wine’s mineral-like nuances.)  White Burgundies tend to be much more austere in style (high acidity, mineral-like notes, with soft nuances of lemon and green apple when young) than the fruit forward Chardonnays of California.  (Grown in a warmer climate and often influenced by oak and malo-lactic fermentation, new world Chardonnays tend toward lush profiles of pineapple, tropical fruits, vanilla and butter).

Chablis, the northern most district of Burgundy (located only 60 miles south of Paris), produces iconic white Burgundies that transcend the variety from which they are made.  The Chablis version of Chardonnay owes much more to the local soil and climate rather than the grape.  (Chablis is cooler and has more minerals in its earth).   Producers in Chablis, furthermore, avoid malo-lactic fermentation and the use new oak, which further differentiates Chablis from the Chardonnay made in the more southerly parts of Burgundy. 

Pinot Noir, the main red varietal of Burgundy, accounts for nearly 40% of the grapes that are grown.  While Pinot Noir is grown all over the world, the varietal’s origin is thought to be Burgundy.   The grape reaches rock-star status here and these wines have a loyal, almost cult-like following of oenophiles.

“Red Burgundy” is made exclusively from the Pinot Noir grape.  The best Burgundian reds generally come from the Côte d’Or (“the golden slope”).   Located about 250 miles southeast of Paris, this is the “money-honey” district and home to some of the world’s most expensive reds.  Thirty–two of its thirty-three vineyards are Grand Cru.  Pinot Noir represents over 90% of the production.

In comparison to the new-world style, Pinot Noir from Burgundy is much more restrained.  Weather strongly contributes to this disparity (in California, for example, fruit typically ripens fully due to ample sun, whereas, in Burgundy grapes struggle to ripen.  Fully ripened grapes are replete with sugar, however, at the expense of acid which balances out sweetness and provides structure.  Furthermore, when all of the sugar ferments into alcohol, new world Pinots can have very high alcohol levels.)  Burgundian reds are prized by connoisseurs because of these differences.

Other main Burgundian varietals include Gamay used to produce Beaujolais’ light, fresh, fruity and easy to drink red.  Aligoté, a white grape, produces a dry, light white, and is also used to produce Burgundy’s sparkling wine, Cremant.

New Year’s Resolutions

Keeping it simple, here's what I'm committing to in 2013: 

·        Taste more wines blind

·        Try more wines I don’t know 

·        Don’t wait too long to drink a special bottle (save the

          bottle but drink the wine!)

·        Remember that more is not necessarily more…gems      

          can be found in all price categories

·        Decide what I think of the wine before I know the price

      Happy New Year!

Best of 2012

As the year comes to a close, it’s only natural to reflect on the superlative wines that have passed through these lips in 2012…a daunting task considering all of the bottles from our cellar that have been opened, the many special wines that we’ve been gifted (or were served in friends’ homes), a Society of Wine Educators annual conference and several meetings of the American Wine Society, as well as our more than three months of travel to wine regions outside of the U.S.  Here is a best-of-the-best, my Top 10 List, listed in no particular order (but like wines have been clumped together).  Prices vary from $20 to >$1000…all prices are per bottle cost.

·   Best Australian:  Peter Lehman 2009  VSV 1885 Shiraz.  This one was so compelling (and not available in the U.S.) that four of us on the Wine-Knows trip had several cases sent back home.  $60 plus shipping.

·   Best New Zealand:  Te Whau Vineyard The Point.  During our reconnaissance trip in April for the March 2014 tour, the earth moved so much when we drank this Bordeaux blend that my husband and I ordered a case (it’s not available in the US).  $80…including shipping

·   Best Champagne:   Piper Heidsieck Millesime 1999:   I’ve had some off-the- charts vintage champagnes but this one is très spécial.   Thank you Maureen & Howard for this exquisite gift.  $300-350

·   Best American Bubbly :  DMZ 2005. Made by Mumm’s in Napa, this super-star is aged for at least 6 years. DMZ is one of the finest American sparklers I’ve had and worth every penny.  Thank you Lynne & John for serving this superb aperitif of which I knew nothing about.  $55

• Best Red Bordeaux:   This is somewhat like choosing your favorite child.  The tasting was a comparative one with Chateau Haut Brion paired with Mission Haut Brion.  The location was Chateau Mission Haut Brion. The Wine-Knows group split right down the middle on preference, but I personally preferred Haut Brion. $1000+

• Best 2^nd label Bordeaux:   Hands down this goes to a Chateau Latour’s 'Les Forts de Latour' 2001.   Thank you, Conni, for buying this on the Wine-Knows trip to Chateau Latour in 2008…and saving it for your recent birthday dinner!  $230

• Best White Bordeaux:  Those of you who don’t know white Bordeaux, should rush out and buy a case of Chateau Lagrange’s Le Fiefs de Lagrange 2010.  I typically prefer reds, but this one will knock your socks off., especially considering its price.  $20

• Best Barolo:   Paulo Scavino Barolo Rocche Dell’ Annunziata Riserva 2007.  I’ve been a huge fan of this producer for years, however, in the recent Wine-Knows truffle tour to Piedmont this one was ethereal.  $95

·   Best Bargain Barbaresco  Produttori del Barbaresco 2002.  This was not a great vintage in Piedmont, however, this producer managed to pull off a real coup.  Known for making a consistently well-crafted Barbaresco, the winery’s 2002 was of shocking quality considering its price.  $40

International Wine Awards Worth Noting

In the US, most oenophiles subscribe to the Wine Spectator, and every wine geek around the globe has certainly heard of Robert Parker.  Many Americans, however, do not know about Decanter, England’s equivalent of our Wine Spectator.  In several ways, I prefer Decanter.  Maybe it’s because of its fresh point of view, or perhaps it’s because of the format.  Nonetheless, listed below are Decanter’s 2012 International Trophy winners that were unveiled in its October issue. (Only those countries that Wine-Knows will be visiting in 2013 have been included, as well as only wines that are imported into the US).

Argentina:

·        Amalaya 2011:  Torrontes (85%), Riesling (15%).  US 

          price <$10

·        Bodegas Salentein Portillo Malbec 2011.  US price <

         $10

Chile:

·        Casas del Bosque Late Harvest Riesling 2010.  US price

           $20

·        Undurraga T.H. Pinot Noir 2010.   US price $25

·        Viña San Pedro 1865 Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc

          2011.  US price $19

France:

·        Château Brown 2010 (white Bordeaux blend).  US price

          $35

·        Château Routas Wild Boar 2011 (rosé from Provence). 

           US price $13

Greece:

Although there were no International Trophies, there were two important regional trophies awarded:

• Gaia Assyrtiko Wild Ferment 2011 (white from Santorini Island).  US price $35

• Gaia Estate Nemea 2007 (red from Peloponnese Peninsula).  US price $45

For more information, get the full list of Decanter’s 2012 awards at http://www.decanter.com/dwwa/2012/.

Holiday Bubbles

While we never need a special event to pop the cork on a bubbly, many people regrettably think of sparkling wine only for special occasions.  With the holidaze quickly approaching, below are my suggestions for bubbles in categories ranging from less than $20 to $300.  All pair beautifully with most foods. 

·        Roederer Esatate Anderson Valley Brut:  Made by the same company that produces’s France’s legendary Cristal Champagne ($200), this American sparkler is consistently on my best buy list.  <$20

·        Le Colture Prosecco:  This is one of the best crafted sparklers from the Prosecco region (the hills above Venice).  Viva Italia.  <$20

·        Argyle Brut:  While not known for its sparkling wine, Oregon soars with this one.  Make sure you have plenty of it in your cellar throughout the year.  $20-25

·        Ca Del Bosco Franciacorta Brut:  Made by one of my fave producers in Italy, this luscious bottle is a magnifico way to ring in any New Year.  $50-55

·        DMZ:  Made by Mumm’s Napa, this super-star is aged for at least 6 years. DMZ is one of the finest American sparklers I’ve had and worth every penny.  $55

·        Piper Heidsieck Millesime 1999:  For a very special event, this one is très spécial.  I’m a lover of vintage Champagne and this one completely seduced me.  $300-350

Great Books on Wine and Food

Winter is approaching…for many of us in the northern hemisphere, this means more time to read that stack of books we’ve been “meaning to get to.”  The holidays are also approaching and books often make terrific gifts.  Here are my Top 10  in which wine and/ or food are the central plot.

1.  Judgment in Paris ( George Taber)

This one is the classic of all classics for anyone who loves wine. Written by the Time Magazine correspondent who actually covered the world’s most famous wine tasting…where California red and white wines outscored those of France.  The tasting was blind, the panel was French, and the wines represented the top chateaux in France.  Nothing has been the same in the wine world since.

http://www.amazon.com/Judgment-Paris-California-Historic-Revolutionized/dp/0743297326

2. Salt—a World History (Mark Kurlansky) 

This is a must for any history buff who is also a serious foodie.  I couldn’t put the book down.  Written by a James Beard award-winning food author, this multilayered masterpiece traces the economic, scientific, political, religious and culinary aspects of salt through the centuries.  Don’t miss it.

http://www.amazon.com/Salt-World-History-Mark-Kurlansky/dp/0142001619

3. The Widow Clicquot (Tilar Mazzeo)

Those of you coming with us on the 2013 trip to Champagne should put this toward the top of your must read list.  You’ll be mesmerized by the story of the early 19^th century widow who single-handedly and against all odds, launched one of the most famous brands in Champagne, Veuve Cliquot (BTW…veuve in French means widow).  Highly recommended.

http://www.amazon.com/Widow-Clicquot-Story-Champagne-Empire/dp/0061288586/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1353432963&sr=1-1

4.      A Year In Provence (Peter Mayle) 

If you haven’t read this hallmark book, order it today online.  There’s no finer introduction to Provence (or France for that matter) that seen through the eyes of this bon vivant writer.  You’ll laugh hysterically, you’ll be charmed, and all of your dreams about ever buying a crumbling home in France and restoring it will evaporate as you read his trials and tribulations of doing so.  Enchanting.

http://www.amazon.com/Year-Provence-Peter-Mayle/dp/0679731148

5.   Fast Food Nation  (Eric Schlosser)

   

Shocking, compelling and frightening all wrapped into one book.  This is imperative for any food lover who values healthy eating.  As the NYT so aptly put it, “It will make you think about the fallout that the fast food industry has had on America’s social and cultural landscape.”   

http://www.amazon.com/Fast-Food-Nation-Dark-All-American/dp/0547750331

6.  Extra Virginity (Tom Mueller)

    

The subtitle on this recently published book says it all: “The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil.”  This work is to Olive Oil, what Fast Food Nation is to the meat industry.  But, there’s even more to the book.  Mueller provides a delectable work of historical research and of expert reporting resulting in an intriguing food-lovers call to action.

http://www.amazon.com/Extra-Virginity-Sublime-Scandalous-World/dp/0393070212

7.   Blood, Bones & Butter ( Gabrielle Hamilton)

There’s simply no way to describe this soul-searching memoir better than the way Mario Batali did….

“Gabirielle Hamilton has changed the potential and raised the bar for all books about eating and cooking.  Her nearly rabid love for all real food experience and her completely vulnerable, unprotected yet pure point of view unveils in both truth and inspiration.  I will read this book to my children and then burn all the books I have written for pretending to be anything even close to this.”

http://www.amazon.com/Blood-Bones-Butter-Inadvertent-Education/dp/0812980883

8.  The Man Who Ate Everything (Jeffrey Steingarten)

A kind of around-the-world-tour-in-eating written by the award-winning food editor of Vogue Magazine, fearless gourmand, and the irascible judge on the popular show "The Next Iron Chef."  While his humorous personality doesn't come across on TV, you'll be rolling on the floor at Steingarten's hilarious tales in print.  Tantalizing recipes are sprinkled throughout as a bonus.

http://www.amazon.com/Man-Who-Ate-Everything/dp/0375702024

9.   Olive Season (Carol Drinkwater)

Drinkwater has actually written a trilogy (Olive Farm, and the Olive Harvest) about life on her olive farm in the South of France.  All of these books are sensual, personal, well-crafted accounts of her life and love affair with a parcel of land.  A former British actress who played Helen Herriot in the BBC’s adaptation of All Creatures Great and Small, Drinkwater writes books that are slanted more toward women readers who can empathize with many of the issues that she so beautifully illuminates.

http://www.amazon.com/Olive-Season-Carol-Drinkwater/dp/1585672351

10.  Portraits of France (Robert Daley)

Another great read for Francophiles, this one is divided into vignettes…many of which center around France’s wine and food centric culture.  From tracing the fascinating life of a bottle of 1806 Lafite Rothchild to an evocative story on the birthplace of General Lafayette, this bestselling writer delivers something for everyone who enjoys history and gastronomy.

http://www.amazon.com/Portraits-France-Robert-Daley/dp/0316171816