Spain’s Edible Art: Paella

         A private chef will make paella at the Mallorcan villa Wine-Knows has leased this September 

The month of May on this Blog is being devoted to the foods and wines of Spain.  Many travelers would consider paella Spain's national dish, but most Spaniards would disagree.  Paella is from the southern part of the country near the Mediterranean coast, and is typically only seen on menus in the south.  (Yes, it's true that some northern tourists restaurants serve paella because of its popularity, but they are the exception).   The city of Valencia, located nearly midpoint on Spain's Mediterranean seaboard, is thought to have been ground zero for paella's humble origin.  Wine-Knows will have our first bite of paella on the island of Mallorca, located just off the coast from Valencia.

The Moors had a profound influence on Spain's architecture & gastronomy

Although created in Spain, paella would not be possible were it not for the Moors.  These north African Berbers invaded Spain in the 700's and ruled the country for nearly 800 years.  The Moors brought with them rice (the Spanish word for rice, arroz, is actually an Arabic word).  They also brought with them the knowledge regarding rice-farming.  The city of Valencia was one of the first coastal cities occupied by the Moors.  Valencia's surrounding wetlands proved to be a perfect spot for growing rice.  But, the Moors didn't stop there.  They also brought another signature ingredient for paella:  saffron.

Paella began in Valencia as a dish for the peasants who worked the nearby rice fields.  Cooked as a mid-day meal for workers over an open fire, paella contained what was available on the land:  rabbit, chicken, duck, snails, and green beans.  Saffron was used to flavor and color the dish, along with olive oil and broth from the cooking of the poultry. 

                       Seafood paella is especially popular on the island of Mallorca

Southern Spain's famous dish takes its name from the wide, shallow traditional pan that was used to cook it in the fields of Valencia.  (Paella actually means frying pan.)  Paella Valenciana ("in the style of Valencia"), today remains one of the most popular versions of the dish, and today still closely parallels the original recipe served to the rural laborers of centuries-past.   Seafood paella is another favorite---shrimps, clams, mussels, and squid replace poultry, and a seafood broth stands in for the poultry stock.  Saffron is used in broth.

Wine-Knows will be visiting southern Spain's Mediterranean where it all began.  In addition to Mallorca island, we'll also tour the don't-miss southern cities of Seville and Granada---both architectural Moorish gems.  There are only 2 spots remaining. 

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Eat, Sip, Relax: Lake Como

                   This dream villa is one of the few on the entire lake that is directly on the water

An Italian friend sent me an email two years ago with photos attached exclaiming, “You have to rent this villa!”  She had seen it in an Italian magazine and knew I loved Lake Como.   I contacted the villa's owner immediately and the rest is history...at least until Americans were banned from recently traveling to Italy.   I was to have spent two weeks here with two different groups of fellow foodies and wine lovers for some Italian-style dolce far niente (“the sweet do nothing life,” aka relaxation).   COVID-19 prevented us from traveling, but to honor what might have been, I'm cooking all the planned dinners at our home in San Diego.

Lake Como is replete with food specialties (and all can be easily procured in California).  Located in Italy’s Lombardy, there’s a cornucopia of local items that would thrill any gourmand.   Lombardy, Italy’s financial and industrial powerhouse, is one of the richest provinces in all of Europe.   It’s also a huge agricultural giant.  Finding high quality local ingredients for a magnifico dinner is as easy as saying “vino.”

                             Risotto Milanese uses the area's top-rated Carnaroli rice & saffron

Risotto:

Rice dominates over pasta in Lombardy and risotto is one of the area’s classical specialties.   The Po River, which traverses Lombardy, is the growing district for the most prized rice in all of Italy, Carnaroli  Tonight  I'm making a risotto Milanese (rice made in the style of Milan), an ethereal silky version made with saffron.

                                     Fresh funghi porcini on bite-size polenta with Tallegio

Polenta

While risotto is very popular in the Como area, the nearby rugged foothills of the Alps lean often toward polenta.   The season’s first wild mushrooms from the nearby Alps were to have been available at the local outdoor markets.  No problem as I was able to track down some funghi porcini here in San Diego.  Last night in my appetizer I used polenta,  funghi porcini and Tallegio cheese.

              Tallegio & radicchio made for a great lunch  using leftovers in a sandwich

Tallegio:

This cheese is one of Lombardia’s culinary super-stars.  Made from cow’s milk, it is a buttery and luscious decadence.   Although its smell is strong, the cheese’s taste is comparatively mild.   Tallegio melts beautifully, so it’s perfect for an ooey-gooey  warm sandwich.    

                    One of Lombardy's perfect bite desserts---figs stuffed with Gorgonzola

Gorgonzola:

One of Lombardy’s greatest cheeses, blue-veined Gorgonzola, has already appeared on my table once this week stuffed in figs which have then been drizzled with Italian honey as a dessert.  

                                             Bresaola makes a perfect antipasto

         

Bresaola:

A specialty of the foothills of the Lombardian Alps, this air-dried beef is immensely popular in the area of Lake Como.   Chocked full of flavor, the beef is first marinated in wine and spices prior to aging.  Sliced paper-thin like prosciutto, I used bresaola earlier this week in a simple but super yummy appetizer:  brescola, topped with olive oil & lemon juice, arugula, shaved Parmiggiano-Reggiano, and sea salt.  Delizioso.

                               Spicy mustard oil flavors this chutney-like condiment

Mostarda

This condiment is a classical Lombardian accompaniment to simple meat dishes… or even cheese.  Made from a cooked mixture of different fruit and mustard oil, it adds a zesty profile (think spicy salsa on tacos).  For anyone turning up their nose, don’t!   This stuff rocks.  I’ve purchased a small (and very pricey) jar on the Internet and plan to use it with a pork roast later in the week.

                                         Ferghettina is Franciacorta's best bubbly

Franciacorta

I may have saved the best for last.  Franciacorta is a wine district located not far from Lake Como.  It produces Italy’s Lamborghini of sparkling wine.  Made in the same labor-intensive method used for Champagne, Franciacorta is expensive but is worth every Euro.   I’ve bought my favorite, Ferghettina Rosé, for tonight’s bubbles.    

Viva Lombardia  !    Viva Lago di Como !

Foodie Gifts Bring Home from Spain

On every Wine-Knows trip one of the most common questions posed by clients is “What souvenirs should I bring home for my food-loving friends?”  Below is a list of items that will please any gourmand.  They are listed in the order of their ease of packing in a suitcase for the flight back to the US.

Saffron:

These delicate threads are used in one of Spain’s signature dishes, paella.  Plucked from the flowers of crocus, the miniscule stamens are then dried.  Top quality saffron is the most expensive food product on earth---more than caviar and truffles.  And, no worries if your friends don’t make paella as saffron is used in many classical risottos, curries, bouillabaisse, and even in baking.

But, buyer beware.  There are many grades of saffron so it is necessary to buy it from a trusted source.  If the price is too good to be true, don’t buy it.  It can be old (and therefore have lost all of its aromatic properties);  it can be an inferior grade (with inferior flavors & aromas); it can even be a knockoff and not even saffron.  I usually buy mine at the Corte Ingles department store (Spain’s Macys).  If you aren’t near a big city, ask one of the restaurants in which we’ll be dining where it can be procured locally.  (BTW…saffron in Spanish is azafran).

Paprika:

You haven’t tasted paprika until you’ve tasted Spain’s smoky paprika which can turn even the most mundane dish into a culinary masterpiece.  The best pimenton (paprika) is from area of La Vera where the mild red peppers are roasted over an oak wood fire.  This pimenton is killer with deep layers of woodsy flavor. While pimenton de La Vera is used in the best paellas of Spain, like saffron, it can be utilized in many international dishes to add complexity.

Membrillo:

I still remember my first bite of Membrillo and that’s saying something because it was nearly 15 years ago.  Membrillo is a thick fruit paste (think of a very thick jam) made from quince.  It’s one of the yummiest things I’ve tasted and most everyone who eats it falls in love.  (I was so enamored with membrillo that I had a quince tree planted at my home so that I can have home-made membrillo on hand at all times).  Typically paired with a cheese, it makes a perfect appetizer, or an ethereal dessert.    And, it is classically Spanish.  Ole!

Piquillo Peppers:

These mild red peppers are very popular in the Rioja wine district of Northern Spain.  In the autumn it’s not unusual to see them being roasted over embers in the back alleys, or to see the women sitting out on front porches peeling their charred skin.  Sold in jars, these bites of heaven can be addictive.  They can be stuffed, added to a dish in lieu of red bell peppers, or can be eaten directly out of the jar by themselves.  Love them…and most likely so will you.