Seductive Cassis-by-the-Sea

I’m on my way to Cassis and I have mixed emotions of letting this cat out of the bag for fear that the charming Mediterranean fishing village will change.  At the moment, Cassis is not known by most Americans.  Instead, it is frequented by Parisians escaping for a tres romantic weekend, or with families making an exodus from the interior of France to indulge in the many charms of this coastal hideaway.

                               One block from the harbor are scenic deserted backstreets

Cassis is sensational in that it’s one the few seaside gems left that feels authentic.  St. Tropez is about 50 miles away, but it might as well be 5,000 miles as the two have nothing in common except for the Mediterranean.  (Marseille is just 10 miles from Cassis, however, it is definitely is on another planet.)  Cassis feels like real people actually live and work there.  Cassis feels tres French…restaurants actually serve French food rather than sushi or tapas. 

                                 My friend Jill assembles ingredients to make ratatouille 

While the town does have tourists, its weekly market is mainly filled with French mom’s pushing strollers and grandmothers carrying classical French wicker baskets full of local produce.  Most visitors remain down by the harbor, or out on boat excursions.  Cassis, in spite of its popularity, manages to feel like a genuine French experience.

                               The nearby calanques are mother nature at her best

One of the most compelling things about this tony little seaside town is its abundance of natural beauty.   Cassis’ calanques are jaw-dropping beautiful.  These narrow inlets from the Mediterranean have dramatic steep-walled limestone cliffs.  You cannot drive to the calanques, and they are only able to be accessed by boat or by hiking.

                             Cap Canaille looms 1,200 feet above the town & its vineyards

Cassis, however, has even more eye-candy for the visitor.  There’s the commanding Cap Canaille, France’s highest sea-cliff.  This imposing headland can be viewed from every part of Cassis. 

                                   The 13th century chateau is now a bed & breakfast

There’s also the centuries old castle overlooking the city.  At night it’s floodlit and the entire village becomes front row seating for a spectacular stage. To complete the perfect package of glorious scenery, Cassis’ charming harbor is surrounded by brightly-colored buildings.  It feels like something out of a movie set. 

                  The village is famous for its Rosé  wine, although red & white are also produced

But, wait!  There’s more.  Cassis has its own wine appellation and the vineyards are just outside the village.  Production is very small so these wines rarely leave France.  My fave red producer is Fontecreuse, however, for rosé or white I lean toward Clos Magdeleine.   (BTW...Cassis liquor is not from Cassis but from Burgundy).

In my opinion, the very best way to experience Cassis is to rent an apartment for the week….the one I rented had a drop-dead gorgeous view of the harbor, the castle and Cap Canaille.   There are outdoor markets on Thursday and Saturday mornings, the perfect place to pick up dinner ingredients.  The other spot you shouldn’t miss for food is Le Caille d’Or, a wonderful deli with roasted chickens and delectable salads.

Bon voyage!