Valbonne's backstreets are out of a movie-set
Tomorrow I begin two weeks at the villa in which Julia
Child wrote her hallmark cookbooks. The
Riviera offers some sleek and sexy towns to visit such as Mougins, St Paul de
Vence and Antibes. While I enjoy them
all, I am also fond of the towns away from the crowds where a more authentic
Provence exists.
Valbonne is one of my top choices. Although the town gets its fair share of
tourists on Friday when its 17th century arcaded central square
hosts one of the best outdoor markets on the Mediterranean, the remainder of
the week it’s relatively quiet. The
entire ancient town is pedestrian-only-cobblestone-streets. One minute off the main square is like being
on a movie set.
The center square of Valbonne is magic
The town of Valbonne has a rich history. Evidence exists that Neolithic man was here
in the Iron Age. But, it was the Romans
in the 3rd century A.D. who put Valbonne on the map when they build
an aqueduct from the town’s river to their nearby strategic port in
Antibes. Today, Valbonne has a thriving economy due to
its proximity to the French equivalent of Silicon Valley, only minutes by car----but
a world away from Valbonne.
Tourrettes sur Loup requires a trip on a windy road but the journey is well worth it
Tourrettes sur Loup is really off the radar for American
tourists. Located about five miles from
popular St Paul de Vence, this hill-top charmer gives the visitor a real idea
of what living in a genuine Riviera village is like. Similar Valbonne, its interior is closed to
cars which promotes the feeling of stepping back in time even further.
The village of Tourrettes sur Loup, with approximately
3,000 residents, is considerably smaller than Valbonne. It’s filled with Romanesque and medieval
buildings. The Riviera is known for
growing flowers for the perfume industry and Tourrettes is the center for violets. In the town you’ll find violets in everything
from violet ice cream at the outdoor cafes, to violet soap and cologne in the
stores.
Life in Biot is a world away from the glitz and glamour of the Riviera
Last but not least is Biot, a tiny village nestled in
the hills above Antibes. Like the other
two towns, Biot does not allow cars. The
village is surrounded by ancient walls with only a few thousand residents, however,
the hills circling the town are filled with villas that triple or quadruple its
population.
Biot's bubble glass is difficult to resist
There are many reasons to visit Biot, one of which its
famous bubble glass. Although quite
pricey, these stunning works-of-art can dramatically transform a dining table
from ho-hum to magnificent.
Another reason to visit charming Biot is the
authenticity of the village. Wander the alley-like
backstreets of the medieval center and you’ll find laundry hanging on clothes lines. You’ll also find local children playing, hear
French music coming from centuries old dwellings, and smell delectable scents of
Niçoise cooking rafting from kitchens.
Arcades offers real-deal regional cooking
Biot has a handful of shops and a small center square
ringed with outdoor restaurants. The
best place to eat, on the other hand, is a few blocks off the main square at
Les Arcades. Julia Child loved this
place in the 1960’s when she lived nearby.
It is still owned by the same family and the owner (now in her 80’s)
remembers the “tall American.” Both groups on the
Julia Child week will dine here to pay homage to the connection between Julia and this family.
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