Showing posts with label poland. Show all posts
Showing posts with label poland. Show all posts

Saturday, September 13, 2025

Krakow: A True Jewel Box

               Dawn at Krakow's UNESCO World Heritage center square---said to be Europe's largest 

My extremely well-traveled German friends recommended I change my plans from visiting Warsaw to Krakow.  “It’s an untouched jewel-box, like no other city in Poland,” they exclaimed.  As I wanted to experience the Warsaw ghetto, I learned quickly that Krakow also has a Jewish ghetto---the added bonus was that it was close to Auschwitz, also on my bucket list.  When I realized it was also home to Schindler’s factory, that sealed the deal.   This was two years ago, and I’m now back in Krakow again.  That’s how compelling this town is.

                  Wawel Castle served as the home of Polish Kings & Queen for >500 years

My German friends were right in that Krakow is an eye-candy gem.  Even Rick Steves is also a staunch admirer: “Krakow is easily Poland’s best destination.”  Steves goes so far as to boast that it’s the real “next Prague.”  Once the capital of Poland (which was moved to Warsaw 400 years ago), Krakow still remains the country’s cultural and intellectual center.   The city is home to the country’s oldest university and the student vibe is pervasive.  Thought-provoking museums, countless art galleries, fabulous restaurants, >30 theaters, a fairytale castle, sprawling parks, and several Jewish heritage sights are just a few more of Krakow’s many charms.

                         Krakow's main square rivals St Marks in Venice for the most stunning.

On my first trip I stayed just off Krakow’s stunning main square, said to be the largest in all of Europe.  This buzzing area is the heart of the medieval city and has been awarded a the coveted World Heritage Site by the United Nations.  There’s something for everybody in this majestic town center:  breathtaking Renaissance, Baroque and Gothic landmarks including the incredible Town Hall Tower and St Mary’s Church, a plethora of outdoor cafes, atmospheric restaurants, and shops galore.      

   Jews were moved across the river from Kaimierz to a walled ghetto in the early 1940's

This trip, however, I’ve rented an apartment in the Jewish area, Kazimierz.   Before WWII, Krakow had one of the largest Jewish settlements in Poland with nearly 65,000 Jews.  There were 6 synagogues.  Only 10% of the Jews survived the war, a lot of them with the help of Oskar Schindler. 

     Pierogi (Poland's version of ravioli) accompanied a fabulous duck ragu & lovely Polish wines 

I visited Kazimierz on my last trip to dine in one of the top restaurants in Krakow.  I’ll never forget that meal (Michelin star quality), and I’ll never forget the feeling of this area.  Kazimierz is a special part of Krakow.  It looks different, it feels different.  The extraordinary atmosphere that the Jews left behind is palpable.   In fact, it was the Kazimierz district that Steven Spielberg chose to film many of the scenes for Schindler’s List.  Today, Kazimierz has become a poignant place of cultural significance.  Moreover, the Jewish area is now the heartbeat of Krakow’s foodie scene.  I plan to walk to the area’s best dining spots every night.

   This poignant square's oversized chairs memorialize the tens of thousands of Krakow Jews who died.

The former capital of Poland, Krakow was home to a line of many Polish Kings.  Today I toured for the first time the city’s former Castle which is now one of the country’s premier art museums.  A fortified landmark on a small hill overlooking the meandering Vistula River, the complex consists of numerous buildings of great national and historical independence including the Cathedral where Polish monarchs were crowned and buried.  In 1978 the entire hilltop was declared by the United Nations the first World Heritage site in Krakow.

                          The city is replete with atmospheric restaurants serving high QPR meals

Looking for a new very special travel destination?   Krakow is a treasure trove of rich Polish history, exquisite architecture, and profound WWII experiences.  Furthermore, it offers foodies superb culinary adventures at amazingly reasonable prices (and the country makes very good wine).  BTW: Krakow can be reached by air from most major cities in Europe.