Curry 101

      Curry is a complex melange of ingredients  that vary by geographical region.

My husband and I are soon heading to Singapore and Malaysia prior to joining our group of Wine-Knows in Vietnam for a two week tour.  We’re going a week early to take cooking classes on Penang Island.  But, not just any cooking class.  This one comes very highly recommended by one of our clients who has returned twice.  I am told that this curry class is the bomb.

Curry is a complex combination of several spices and herbs that vary from country to country. Archaeological evidence, dating back to 2600 BC, indicates that it probably originated in India.  Nonetheless, curry has spread to all neighboring countries of India (e.g. Pakistan, Nepal) and is now a traditional dish of all the Southeast Asia nations.  Even China utilizes curry, as does the Philippines.  Trade routes also took curry to Africa where it still plays a huge role in many African nation’s cuisines.

All curries are known for their special aromatic qualities.  Most of them contain coriander, cumin and turmeric as base ingredients.  Depending on the country (and even the geographical region within the same country), the following are examples of possibilities that can appear in varying proportions and combinations:   ginger, star anise, fenugreek, garlic, lemon grass, galangal (a cousin of ginger), kaffir lime, mustard, fennel, cinnamon, tamarind, pepper, and chiles.

Curry seasonings are used to flavor a variety of dishes.  Often used in meat dishes, curry can also be used with poultry, fish and even vegetable dishes.  It can appear in appetizers, as well as the entree, side dishes, and even on occasion, in desserts.

Curry was so loved by the British Colonial government in India during the 18^th century, that Indian merchants decided to make it commercially for sale.  A powdered form of this mélange of enticing spices and herbs was very popular with Brits who took buckets of it with them when they returned to England.  Curry powder is now probably available in every large supermarket throughout the world.

Stay tuned for recipes from our cooking class in Malaysia and best wines for pairing with curry dishes.

Istanbul’s Sensational Spice Market

                                                 A Don't-Miss Stop for Foodies

I’ve been in glorious Turkey for nearly a week.  One of my favorite experiences in Istanbul is to wander through their Spice Bazar.  A virtual symphony of smells, colors and textures, this place is a must on any foodie’s list while in this extraordinary city.  Located only a 15-20 minute walk from the Blue Mosque, it’s a convenient excursion.

Turkey’s position at the crossroads of Europe, Asia and the Middle East, has long enabled the country to be a central hub for trading.  For centuries the country was an important destination of the camel caravans that travelled the Silk Road.  Herbs and spices brought by merchants travelling the road have made their way into Turkish cuisine.  The modern day Spice Market attests to the plethora of exotic products that were brought from near and far cultures.

The Spice Market is situated near the Bosphorus in an impressive building from the 1600’s.   There are nearly 100 shops inside, with an equal number spilling over into the side-streets that surround the market. Most stalls sell a mind-boggling array of spices, herbs and Turkish food products that are stacked and sacked in a cacophony of visual displays seemingly out of National Geographic.  Most shops, on the other hand, specialize in certain herbs or spices.  Vendors often speak some English, and many will let you taste.  Below are items to consider for purchase for your kitchen, or as gifts for friends who love to cook:

• Cumin: Turkish cumin is preferred by many Michelin-star chefs.  Buy the seeds, toast & grind them at home for the most pungent aromas and flavors.

• Sumac: A very typical spice in several Middle Eastern countries, this one adds a lovely tangy element of lemon.

• Cinnamon:  Half the cost of that in the US, it comes in sticks and powder.

• Paprika:  Some of the finest in the world, this rich and flavor-chocked version is great for adding smoky elements.

• Kefke Spice:  a mixture of several different items, this is the perfect seasoning for Turkey’s ground meats/meat balls (kefke).

• Dried pomegranate seeds:  called “zeresk,” these are stupendous morsels that can be added to a variety of dishes from savory to sweet.

• Dried Eggplant:  one of the most dazzling Turkish dishes I have ever had was made from dried eggplant that had been reconstituted and then stuffed with minced lamb and topped with yogurt.

• Dried Garbanzo Beans: flavored with different herbs, I bought tons of these and used them in place of nuts for a simple and unusual nibbly at a party with a glass of wine.

• Turkish Delight:  This is Turkey’s signature sweet.  Available in every flavor of the rainbow, I especially love the pink ones (laced with rose-water and studded with pistachios).

This is a do not-miss experience even if you don’t buy a thing.  The smells, tastes and people-watching are priceless.

Vietnam’s Five Spice

                                 A pungent melange of spices with star anise leading the show

I’m a lover of Vietnamese food.  Prior to moving to San Diego, every week in the Bay Area I would treat to an ethereal grilled chicken lunch at a Vietnamese restaurant near my office.  I never could figure out this dish’s spices, but when I went to Vietnam last year it finally hit me during a cooking class:  five spice powder!  While this mixture is used in Chinese restaurants, it is not used in households in China for daily cooking.   In contrast, it’s a standard in Vietnamese homes. 

Google “Vietnamese chicken with 5 spice” and you’ll be served up in a nano-second more than 1 million articles.  While chicken and five spice is a marriage made in heaven, the Vietnamese use this mélange of flavor to add zest and pungency to everything from their signature Pho soup, to noodles, or stir-fries, as well as a variety of sauces. 

What are the five spices?   While ingredients and proportions  may vary among producers (and from country to country), star anise creates the backbone for most Vietnamese preparations.  Cloves is the next note, followed by cinnamon, Sichuan peppers and finally fennel seeds.  Occasionally, ginger, nutmeg, turmeric, coriander or cardamom may be added to the blend in lieu of one of the other ingredients.

In Vietnam, every household seems to have a recipe for chicken cooked with five spices where is used in a marinade, or even as a rub.  

Christine Ha, MasterChef’s winner in 2013, stunned the television audience throughout the competition.  First, she was blind; second she was Vietnamese. Her masterpieces put Vietnam on the culinary map of many Americans who had not tasted this cuisine.  In her first book after the show, Recipes From My Home Kitchen, Christine uses homemade five spice in her “Mama’s chicken noodle soup.”  Her spice mixture was roasted star anise, coriander and cloves, along with charred ginger (“coaxing every bit of sweetness and flavor from the ingredients which translates to a more flavorful stock.”)

Here is my favorite recipe using five spice--- a tribute to the first Vietnamese dish I fell in love with in the Bay Area.  It can be used for any type of poultry or meat.

VIETNAMESE MARINADE FOR POULTRY OR MEAT

Mix all of the following together:

3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 large shallot finely chopped
2 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons minced ginger
2 tablespoons minced garlic
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons of fish sauce (3 Crabs brand is the best!)
2 teaspoons ground turmeric
1 heaping teaspoon five-spice powder
1/2 tablespoon sea salt
4 whole star anise, lightly toasted for about 3 minutes and then pounded into a fine powder
Freshly ground black pepper

Put the meat or poultry into baggie with the marinate.  Refrigerate, turning it occasionally to ensure full coverage.  

Note:  it's critical to marinate chicken or meat for at least 8 hours. For the best results, do 24 hrs.