Markets of Provence

June has arrived which means that the outdoor markets of Provence (located in France’s southern Rhone region) are just beginning to really buzz.   Market days in this area clock the change of the seasons and have done so for hundreds of years.  These much beloved weekly markets drive the mood of their respective villages and reflect France’s fascination with the best and freshest of culinary products.

Each village has its special day of the week for its market.  The biggest and best markets, however, can draw locals from a hundred miles away.  Among my faves are the Sunday market in pretty Isle Sur Sorgue.  France’s answer to Venice, the town meanders around the Sorgue River which creates a scenic background in which to shop.  This market (one of the largest in Provence) is popular because it’s also an antique market.   Radishes in every color of the rainbow set next to Louis XIV clocks.  Go early if you don’t want to walk a couple of miles as parking is limited and the market is among the most popular in Provence.

Aother darling is the Tuesday market in Vaison le Romaine (VLR).  History buffs shouldn’t miss this one as there are captivating Roman ruins (thus the town’s name, “Romaine”).  VLR isn’t as crowded as Isle Sur Sorgue, however, it can be jammed packed as well.   The perfect day for me is the market in the morning, followed by lunch at one of the many outdoor cafes (or, a picnic from market ingredients in the shaded central square), then a guided tour in the afternoon of the illustrious Roman amphitheater, baths and millennium old mansions.

We can’t discuss Provence’s outdoor weekly markets without discussing olives.  Olives and olive oil are synonymous with Provence.  Tapenade?  It’s one of the area’s culinary gifts to France (for that matter, the world).  An entire cadre of non-edible olive products also fill the markets…everything from a host of skin products to stunning serving bowls made from olive wood.

The markets are, likewise, a shopper’s paradise for perfumes, spices, potteries and fabrics.  Markets are perfumed with intoxicating scents of lvender products---soaps, oils, lotions, sachets, and organic lavender used in cooking.  (BTW…lavender is one of the 10-12 ingredients found in the ubiquitous Herbs de Provence).  You can’t come to Provence without being mesmerized by the super colorful Provençal fabrics made from centuries old patterns.   There are a plethora of vendors selling the fabric by the yard, but there are even more vendors offering it in the form of tablecloths, napkins, placemats, purses, bedspreads and the like.   Pottery is available in an addictive array of earth & jewel tone colors.

Travelers joining the Wine-Knows group for the harvest tour this September will have the opportunity to experience the market in Vaison le Romaine.  Oh, yes, and the market has vendors who sell suitcases for all of the tourists who can’t stay away from the special products of the Provençal markets.

 

A Venetian Gem

If there’s one shop NOT TO MISS among the bazillion stores in Venice, it’s gotta be Gloria Astolfo.  This swanky costume jewelry emporium offers a fabulous array of baubles that would satisfy any Doge’s wife, Contessa or Principessa.   Opened in 2005, this jewel box caught my eye in 2007.  It’s been my first stop in Venice ever since.

Although tiny, every inch is filled with beautifully displayed jewels, all shown in color groupings.  In 2010, when I was in the city for a week, I made a bee-line to the turquoise section and purchased a pair of large dangly earrings ($225).  They were too big for my small frame, so the store took them apart and made two separate earrings for me---one a simple small piece…the other a perfectly proportioned dangle for my 5 foot size.   It took them 2-3 days, but there was no extra charge.

This recent visit I took my friend.  There was a glorious new collection of coral pieces (their coral comes from Italy’s Amalfi Coast.)   Prior to entering my friend insisted, “I’m not spending a Euro more on this trip.”  She walked out with 3 killer pair of earrings.  I behaved, and only allowed myself an indulgence of one item…another pair of show-stopping earrings (I have worn them twice in the last week that I’ve been home----and both times people have approached me about them).

No photographs are allowed in the store for fear of their unique designs being ripped off, however, once outside the window displays are fair game.  All pieces are made at their nearby artisan workshop from semi-precious stones or Swarowski crystals.  The store is open daily from 10-8, accepts credit cards, and offers Tax Back breaks for purchases over $200.

Gloria Astolfo is located a minute’s walk from the back of St Mark’s square on the main routing to La Fenice Opera @ San Marco 1581.

Eye Candy in Bellagio

Candy without calories?  Si signora!   I’ve got the perfect antidote for dieting on Lake Como---skip lunch (or dinner), hike up and down the town’s hillside streets and enjoy the cornucopia of eye candy in its many glorious shops. Whether you’re on a budget, or just paid a bazillion Euro’s for the lakeside villa next to George Clooney’s, there’s something for everyone. Here are a couple of boutiques that wowed me.

“In Bellagio” is a jewel-box of a store located in the epicenter of town at the intersection of the city’s two main shopping streets (stair-lined Salita Serbelloni and Via Garibaldi, the street above that parallels the waterfront).   The boutique features attractive hand-made items, along with gold, sterling and precious stone jewelry.  There is also a terrific selection of costume rings, bracelets and earrings that look as if they could easily be on a Milan designer’s runway.  Ask for Cristian or Luciana and you’ll be well taken care of. 

                                                         In Bellagio, Via Garibaldi 29

Azalea (31 and 41 Salita Serbelloni)

Fortuitously located across the stairs from the In Bellagio shop is another show-stopper that features the best of Como’s silk products.  Azaela, which has actually two shops on the staircase, offers slightly different products at each store.  Both, however, offer luxurious handmade scarfs, shawls and ties in an endless rainbow of colors, including a good collection by Missoni and Versace.  (At #41, be sure to ask for the Signora...versus the Signor...to help you.  She is patient and offers a low-pressure approach).

Buon Appetito!