The World’s Most Expensive Salt

                            Fleur de Sel reaches rock-star status with caramels or chocolate

Fleur de Sel, once used in ancient times as a medicinal salve, is now the priciest salt on earth.  It has a cult following among serious chefs around the world.  In fact, I think it's safe to say there isn't a Michelin star chef on the planet who doesn't have at least one Fleur de Sel at her/his beckon call.  Ironically, none of these gourmands actually cook with this salt.  Instead, once their cooking is completed, they add a small count of Fleur de Sel to the dish as a final finishing element to further flavor the food.

Originally from France, Fleur de Sel translates to "flower of salt."  It is so named because of its flower-like pattern of crystals.  Now made in other parts of the world, the product goes by the name of Flor de Sal in both Portugal and Spain.  Regardless of country of origin, the process is the same.  As seawater dries in special shallow pools called salt "farms," a delicate crust forms on the top.  Once the water completely evaporates the dried salt "flowers" must be harvested by hand due to their fragile nature.  It's a painstaking, labor-intensive process.  Thus the salt's high price ($10 for four ounces in the US).

Although Fleur de Sel has been popular with foodies for some decades, it was its use in the recent sweet-salty craze with items such as chocolate and caramel that really put it on the culinary map.  While it has long been known that sweet and salt are a perfect pairing, Fleur de Sel behaves differently in these combinations than other salts.  Due to this salt's high moisture content, the crystals often stick together.  This means that Fleur de Sel doesn't dissolve immediately.  Its snowflake structure allows it to dissolve more slowly thereby permitting the taste to linger in your mouth.  Moreover, Fleur de Sel is composed not only of sodium and chloride but of other trace minerals.  These adjunct minerals add complexity which further adds to the salt's unique flavor.

Like a good quality olive oil or fresh herbs, Fleur de Sel is one of those small but essential touches that changes a dish from something ordinary to sublime.  It's half the price in Europe and because its light in weight Fleur de Sel is the perfect tiem to bring in your suitcase from a sojourn across the Atlantic.

 

Greek Feta

Greece has graced us with numerous gifts (democracy and philosophy to name a few), but the country has also contributed to the culinary scene with Feta, a briny cheese made from a combination of sheep and goat milk. While the first historical writings can trace Feta as far back as to the Byzantine Empire (330-1453 AD), artifacts from the 6th century BC provide even earlier references to the process of Feta cheese-making.  Greek mythology, however, indicates that the Cyclops of  Polyphemus invented Feta well before either of these periods.

The word “feta” has an interesting genealogy.  It is derived from the Italian word fetta which means “slice,” (thus, the word fettucine which is thinly sliced pasta). Fetta, in turn, is of Latin origin and means “bite” or “morsel.”  Whether Feta is of Greek or Italian origin, the cheese is now protected by European Union law and only cheeses made in specific areas of Greece can be called Feta.  Legal doctrine also dictates that Feta must be made from at least 70% sheep’s milk---the remainder must be goat.

Feta is made in large blocks and cured in a salt brine which accounts for the cheese’s salty profile (this can be lessened by washing the cheese).  After a two month period, Feta is available for sale but the blocks remain submerged in the brine even in the grocery store.  70% of all cheese consumed in Greece is Feta.  It is used as a table cheese and in everything from the famous Greek salads to pastries.  It is well known for its use in phyllo-based dishes such as spanakopita (a heavenly spinach pie) and tyropita (a divine cheese pie).  It can also be grilled, or served plain with a drizzle of olive oil and topped with oregano… wild oregano grows abundantly throughout Greece.

Those of you who have secured one of the coveted 12 spots on this Fall’s private yacht tour of the Greek islands (the trip is sold out with a long waiting list) will experience Feta in the above food specialties…all paired with well-crafted red wines from the Greek mainland.    The yacht’s chef will demonstrate how make several dishes with Feta and if you’re adventurous you’ll be able to join him shopping in port for Feta, as well as just-plucked from sea fish and garden fresh produce.

 

The Latest Culinary Craze from South America

I’ve long been a fan of paprika, however, this one is like no other.  I was introduced to Merquén in 2006 in Chile.  One of the country’s best chefs used it in salmon dish at a lunch I attended….it was love at first bite.  I was so enamored with the seasoning that I had our driver stop at the nearest supermarket in Santiago where I bought every bag they had…all 25.  I gave them to all my foodie friends back home, but not one had ever heard of it.

Two years later Merquén (also called merken), came out of the culinary closet at the Fancy Food Show in NYC.  The biggest culinary extravaganza probably in the world, this show boasts over 6,000 booths of gourmet products.  Who’s Who of the cooking world attends.  In 2008, Merquén became one of the stars of the show when one of Chile’s star chefs used the spice in a cooking seminar.

Merquén is a mixture of dried and smoked Chilean peppers that has been seasoned with toasted cumin, coriander seeds and salt.    The base of this ethereal seasoning is a smoked pepper  “cacho de cabra.”  These green peppers are left to hang on their vine until  they turn a deep crimson color, then they are painstakingly smoked over a wood fire.  The process is long and arduous.  The results are magic.

The spice is indigenous to the Mapuche, the native people of Central Chile. The paprika-like blend adds heat, an intense smoky flavor, saltiness and a subtle but complex aroma to foods.  It is commonly found on just about everything from meat and seafood to vegetables, savory pies and stews.  At the Fancy Food Show they even used it on cheese…and it worked.

Merquén has been embraced by Chilean and international chefs which has led to Merquén-infused olive oil, Merquén flavored pepper, etc.  It’s now being used as a dry rub for meat, fowl and fish, as well as added to cerviche, as well as on peanuts or olives.  If you’re not coming on the March tour to Chile & Argentina, you can find it online at LaTienda.com under "merken."