Favorite Outdoor Markets of Provence

              Provence's ethereal Cavaillon melon is a foodies' dream...you can smell it 50 yards away

The French Riviera is part of the larger region of Provence.  Nearly every town in Provence has a weekly market.  Vendors take their bounty to Vaison on Tuesday, Nyons on Thursday, Valbonne on Friday, and then to the grand-pere of them all, Isle sur Sorgue on Sunday.   Some, like Isle sur Sorgue, are huge affairs with tour busses full of mesmerized tourists jockeying with locals for a taste of the area’s famous Cavaillon melon.  Others, such as the Riviera's tiny Valbonne, are more intimate affairs that take over the small village’s central square turning it into a colorful theater stage filled with culinary gems & the area’s handicrafts.

              Shoppers in Vaison must cross this ancient Roman bridge to enter the city for its market

Vaison-La-Romaine

Located in the northern part of Provence (30 miles northeast of Avignon), Vaison makes my list because its a two-for-one:  significant Roman ruins plus a fabulous market.   As its name implies, Vaison was a famous “Roman” town.  Rich ruins of the Roman occupation dating before the birth of Christ marry with a charming medieval town to create a picture-perfect backdrop for the market.

 

Olive-centric gift shop in Nyons showcases products made from or about olives

Nyons

Not far from Vaison, is another market I really enjoy.  Nyons is the epicenter for Provence’s famous olive production.  In fact, these olives are so renowned that they have their own appellation (A.O.C).  While all Provençal markets feature the ubiquitous local olives, Nyons takes olives to an entire different level:  there are stalls specializing in EVOO cosmetics featuring a cornucopia of lipsticks, body creams, shampoos & conditioners, and soaps in every color of the rainbow.   Other sellers tantalize you with food products ranging from tapenade to an unforgettable multi-layer hot potato gratin oozing with cheese, carmelized onions, local olives and lardons (France’s bacon)---all cooked in a super-sized paella pan in a wood-fired oven.

 

        Tantalizing Provencal fabric abounds in the form of tablecloths, napkins, runners & placemats

Isle sur Sorgue

This town, called the "Venice of Provence," is enchanting.  Built along the winding waterways of the Sorgue river, Isle sur Sorgue is a cluster of small “islands” all connected to one another with tiny foot bridges.  Always on Sunday, this market is packed with weekenders who come for the city’s outdoor antique market and uber fresh local produce.   Word of warning:  go early (before 9).  The last time I visited it took nearly 30 minutes to find a parking place, and another 30 minutes to walk from the outskirts into the center.

Valbonne is tiny, but knocks it out of the park for an extraordinary experience

Valbonne

In some ways I’ve saved the best for last.  In spite of the fact that this is the smallest market of the four, in many ways it’s the most magical.  Located 10 miles from the Riviera's jet-set Cannes, Valbonne is a pedestrian-only town of 13,000.   The entire village is a medieval jewel box so it’s no wonder why it often used as a movie set (e.g. French Kiss with Meg Ryan).   Valbonne’s weekly market, held on the charming central square, also spills over onto the cobblestoned side streets and arcaded alleyways leading away from center.   Once you finish with the market, head to these charming backstreets where you'll see another side of the French Riviera.

 Viva Provence!