1. Popularity
Although many think that Chardonnay wine consumption peaked in the
early 1990’s, that isn’t true internationally. In spite
of the ABC (“anything but Chardonnay”) movement that began prior to the millennium,
Chardonnay today is the second most planted white wine grape in the world. (Airén, a varietal from Spain, is numero uno). Among all wine grapes, Chardonnay ranks 5th in the vineyards across the globe.
2. Origin
DNA research has unveiled that Chardonnay is a cross
between Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc. The Romans are thought to have brought Gouais
Blanc from Croatia to Burgundy. Pinot
Noir, thought to actually be indigenous to Burgundy, mixed in the vineyard with
Gouais and birthed Chardonnay centuries ago.
3. Old
World versus New World
Burgundy is the epitome of the traditional old world
style Chardonnay: think less is more. In Burgundy there is little (if any) new oak used,
less manipulation (e.g. pumping over, punching down, fining), less alcohol, less
fruit, and more minerality. Burgundy’s
lean and mineral-laced Chablis is a classic example of old world style Char.
In contrast, new world Chars don’t follow centuries of
European wine-making tradition. New
world winemakers push the envelope with riper fruit (leading to bolder, more fruit-forward aromas and tastes, as well as higher alcohol levels). They also use techniques such as punching
down and pumping over more often to extract more flavor. New world Chars are also typically vinified using some new oak barrels.
4. Oak
There are two other distinct styles of Chardonnay: those aged in oak barrels or wine aged in
stainless steel. Many American Chars are
oaked, and their degrees can range from a light use of oak to the full-on
version of oak. Several consider oaky Chars
to have more layers of complexity. Oak
with Char translates to flavors ranging from vanilla, to toasted nuts or even crème
brûlée. On the other hand, for some the
unoaked Chardonnay is viewed as the more pristine of the two.
5. Aromas
& Flavors
Chardonnay’s profile is dependent upon several factors. Obviously oak is a factor, as is the ripeness
of the grapes. In cooler climates where
fruit is less ripe, one can expect Chars to lean toward a lemon profile with green
apple notes. Warmer weather Chardonnays
are tropical often with aromas and flavors of pineapple and mangoes. Moderate climates bring pear, peach and
apricots flavors.
Buttery can be another descriptor of Chardonnay’s
flavor. This component comes from
Malo-Lactic fermentation (often shortened to “ML”). ML is a chemical process that winemakers can
use to soften the acidity of wines such as Chardonnay. In the process of softening, ML used with
Char adds a butter-like flavor along with a velvet-like, creamy textures to the
wine.
6. Sparkling Wine
Chardonnay, one of the three grapes allowed by law in
Champagne, is used all over the world to also make bubbly wine. If Blanc
de Blanc appears on the label, this means that the wine is 100% Chardonnay.
7. World’s
Best Chardonnay?
That is totally subjective depending upon what style appeals to
you. Oaked? Unoaked?
Old World? New World? Cool climate or warm? While I like them all, I tend to lean more
toward the slightly oaked versions of both old world and new. For example, I just returned from Burgundy
where I tasted some jaw-dropping white Burgundies (all, of course, are made
from the Chardonnay grape). One of my
favorites was the Cuverie of the Hospice de Beaune’s 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet
(barrel-tasted), but I also loved Drouhin’s 2016 Corton Charlemagne. Here in California I am a raving fan of Dehlinger
and Merry Edwards’ renditions. Again,
the best is in the eyes of the beholder.
8. Food
Pairing
One size does not fit all when pairing Chardonnay with
food. Chardonnay, as discussed above,
comes in many different styles and the type of Char must be addressed when
pairing it with food. Here are some general
guidelines:
- Unoaked Chardonnay pairs best with delicate foods such as simply prepared seafood, fish or chicken.
- Moderately oaked Chardonnay can work with richer foods such as lighter cream sauces.
- Fully oaked Chars can take on foods that have an extra degree of richness such as pasta with a heavy cream sauce, lobster or scallops in a cream sauce, and meats served with a cream sauce. Also rich cheeses and even foie gras can work with these big Chars.
- Try to match flavors in the Chardonnay with those in the food. For example, if you have a warm climate Chardonnay with rich tropical flavors, use similar flavors in the food to complement the wine (e.g. a mango-infused sauce). Or, play to ripe Chardonnay’s impression of sweetness by serving it with ingredients such as corn, butternut squash or sweet potatoes, as well as foods that are carmelized.
- Last, foods that don’t work well with Chardonnay include any type of tomato sauce or spicy dishes.
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