Sauv Blanc is the star of the show in the Marlborough wine district
New Zealand has been historically a world leader when
it comes to Sauvignon Blanc (SB) wines.
The classical Kiwi style is easily recognizable---a kind of in-your-face
pungency of grass and citrus. (One
critic has even said that if you don’t like New Zealand Sauv Blancs, it’s because
you were forced to mow the lawn as a kid).
The Sauvignon Blanc grape is native to France. The Loire Valley, known for its gigantic castles,
is also famous for its SB. In Bordeaux,
the grape is mixed with Semillon to create an unctuous white Bordeaux. But, it’s on New Zealand’s south island that
the varietal morphs into something quite different from its heritage.
Some of New Zealand’s most spectacular SBs come from
the Marlborough wine region on the south island. Producing >75% of all of New Zealand’s
wines, this area’s flagship grape is SB. Marlborough is a river valley that empties
into the sea and its sandy-gravely soil makes for perfect drainage. The low fertility of the soil also encourages
concentration of flavors via lower yields.
The heavier soils produce
the more herbaceous SBs, while its stonier soils left over from the river’s
erosion impart more lush and tropical flavors.
Some scientists, however, think that a hole in the ozone layer over this
region influences these bold fruit flavors.
As in all wine, the weather plays a major influence. New Zealand’s geography ensures that no
vineyard is more than 80 miles from the coast.
This means maritime climates that are moderated by the sea---never too
hot, but never too cold. Such climactic
factors ensure a long and steady growing season that allows grapes to ripen
slowly. Also, this allows for the development
in balance between acids and sugars, one of the hallmarks of a well-crafted
wine.
In my opinion the best renditions of Kiwi SBs are
those that have tamed the grassy profiles to merely subtle background notes. Dogpoint offers a well-made SB full of melon
and passion fruit mixed with citrus and mineral flavors. Often available at our local Costco for $20,
it consistently delivers big in the quality/price department. Greywacke (owned by the original winemaker at
Cloudy Bay) also delivers a tremendous product in the same price range. This one offers a superb rendition of
well-integrated citrus, tropical, herbal, and mineral.
Wine Knows will be visiting both of the above wineries on its 2020 harvest tour. Currently we have 7 seats available: www.WineKnowsTravel.com.
Wine Knows will be visiting both of the above wineries on its 2020 harvest tour. Currently we have 7 seats available: www.WineKnowsTravel.com.
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