Viognier and Vermentino are synonymous with
summer. While both of these grapes are popular in Europe, they remain mostly unknown in the US. (But, they are increasingly popping up on our wine lists). The two varietals can make for simple poolside
drinking, but they both can also be complex, serious wines. Viognier and Vermentino are versatile in that they
can be served as an aperitif, or with a summer meal. I especially like them with grilled fish, and
they’re terrific with shellfish. A light
summer pasta (veggies & pesto, or cherry tomatoes & arugula) also work
well.
Viognier hails from the Rhone Valley in France. It is often used in blending, but in the appellation
of Condrieu, it is 100% varietal. Condrieu
is ground zero for lovers of Viognier. I
am a great fan of Viognier’s perfume-like aromas (think summer honeysuckle or
fragrant roses), but I also am taken with its exotic fruit profile (mango, or
even sweet tangerine). I highly
recommend any of Rhone winemaker Yves Cuilleron’s Viogniers. One of the best Viognier I’ve had outside of
France is Spain’s Vall Loch from the Priorat region. Greece is also knocking it
out of the park--- producer Gerovassiliou makes a killer Viognier. For the US, I’ve not tasted anything that can
beat Santa Barbara’s rendition by boutique Jaffurs Winery. If you can find any of these Viogniers, buy
every bottle they have.
Vermentino (known as Rolle in the South of France) is
another rock-star summer sipping wine from the Italian Mediterranean. Like Viognier, it can be highly aromatic. It is similar to Sauvignon Blanc in weight
and shares many of the same citrus-like qualities. Vermentino, however, often serves up some
intriguing minerality as an added bonus.
The best Vermentinos come from the island of Sardenia (Argiolas is a
great producer). Tablas Creek in Paso Robles is one of the few
US producers that grows Vermentino.
Enjoy the last weeks of summer, and drink plenty of “Vitamin
V.”
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