Presidential Wines

                Stags Leap & Robert Pecota's Sauv Blanc were served at this White House dinner

President’s Day is just around the corner.  Did you know that two Presidents were instrumental in the history of the wine industry in the USA?  A third President had a less pivotal role, however, certainly influenced the course of our current day wine scene.

Thomas Jefferson, who was not only one of the Founding Fathers of our country but an author of the Declaration of Independence and a twice-elected President, was crucial to laying the groundwork for wine in the US.  Jefferson had a colossal love affair with wine.  Soon after graduating from college, the young statesman began collecting wines but his real love affair with it began when he was appointed as the Ambassador to France.   Jefferson returned home with thousands of bottles of wine and even planted his own vineyards in Virginia.  His appreciation of wine spread to colleagues such as George Washington and John Adams.  

Another President critical to the role of wine in America was Franklin Roosevelt.  FDR repealed Prohibition in 1933.  Enacted in 1919, Prohibition was revoked with the 21^st Amendment.  It changed the wine landscape entirely.

The third President who played a key role in wine is John F. Kennedy.   JFK, like Jefferson, was a real bon vivant.  While wines had long been served at the White House to accompany special dinners with dignitaries, Kennedy upped the ante on both the quality of food and the wine.  First, let’s remember that the Kennedys brought in a French chef.  Second, they brought in wines that were commiserate with haute cuisine including such stunners as Chateau Haut-Brion and Dom Perignon.   JFK added glamour and style to the “art of dining” at the White House at a time in which the California wine industry was just beginning to blossom.

Below are a few of my favorite affordable wines that have been served at the White House.  Some of them may ring a bygone bell.   BTW...both sides of the house have representation.

     

    ~ Chimney Rock Reserve Cab (George W. Bush)

    ~ Flowers Pinot Noir (Bill Clinton)

    ~ Monticello Chardonnay (Bill Clinton)

    ~ Saintsbury Pinot Noir (Bill Clinton)

    ~ Shafer Hillside Cab (George W. Bush)

    ~ Sonoma Cutrer Les Pierres Chardonnay (George W. Bush)

White & Red Burgundy

Burgundy is a tiny wine district just 200 miles south of Paris.  Producing a mere two or three percent of France’s total wine, this small region is a behemoth among oenophiles.   Indeed, Burgundy has a hugely loyal following among the world’s most serious wine lovers.  And, both the white and the red are at the pinnacle for many wine aficianados.

Chardonnay is the most widely planted grape in Burgundy, accounting for about half of the total grape production.  If it’s a white Burgundian wine, it is Chardonnay (the only exception is a small production of a very simple white wine made from the Aligoté grape which is often used in Burgundy’s sparkling wine production).  White Burgundies are for many the Holy Grail, however, few can afford the astronomical prices.   In an article on The Top 5 Most Expensive White Wines in the World, a walloping four of them were white Burgundies.  They ranged in price from $5,923 to a mere $1,257 a bottle.

White Burgundy has a cult following.   These Chardonnays, unlike many others in the New World, have a complex minerality.   As all of Burgundy was an ancient inland seabed 70 million years ago, the petrified remains of sea creatures in these resulting limestone soils, can greatly influence the wine’s mineral-like nuances.  Moreover, Burgundy’s Chardonnay is very different from the warmer climate Chardonnay of places like California.  White Burgundy is all about austerity with high acidity and subtle citrus and apple flavors and aromas.  Warm climate Chars tend to be more New World in style: malolactic fermentation (to soften the acidity), oak influences of vanilla and butter, along with ripe fruit flavors like pineapple and tropical fruits.

Red Burgundies are no slouch by any means.  Like their white counterparts, they are also made entirely from just one grape.  If it’s a Red Burgundy, it was made from Pinot Noir.  Also, like White Burgundy, Red Burgundy has achieved rock-star status among the world’s connoisseurs.  By the way:  Pinot Noir never appears on any bottle of wine in Burgundy.  That’s because people know that if it’s red and made in Burgundy, it can only be Pinot Noir.  (The same for Chardonnay…you will never see the varietal’s name anywhere on the Burgundian bottle). 

Like White Burgundy, Red Burgundy is more restrained in its style when compared to the New World Pinots.  Burgundian Pinot is about elegance and subtlety.  In contrast, New World Pinots are all about the fruit (which, by the way, is usually fully ripe which accounts for their more fruit-forward flavors and high alcohols.)  Red Burgundies are prized by serious wine-lovers for these differences.

Wine-Knows has just two spots available on its trip to Burgundy this June.  Come learn about both White and Red Burgundies at their birthplace at some of the region’s super-star producers.   http://www.wineknowstravel.com/burgundy-champagne/

Wines That Pair with Truffles?

It’s truffle season.  One of the world’s most expensive food items, truffles can present some big issues for pairing with wines.   There are several factors to consider when choosing the appropriate wine including the type of truffle that is being served (black or white), the flavor profiles of the wine (earth versus fruit), and other ingredients of the recipe in which the truffle appears which might affect the wine choice (e.g. fat).

First, let’s start with what type of truffle.   All truffles have a wild, musky, earthy flavor.  Because of this truffles of any type can quickly overwhelm a delicate wine.  White truffles, the more expensive, are far more aromatic and pungent than the black varietal.   White truffles require a complex wine to match their robust flavor profile.  For example, an aged red wine that has time to develop tertiary aromas of earthiness works well with the intense savory character of the white truffle.  An older Bordeaux or Barolo can pair beautifully as their fruit profiles are subtle and their earth flavors (e.g. leather and cigar box) have had time to develop.

Black truffles, on the other hand, have less intense musky flavors than their white counterparts.  Nonetheless, even black truffles need a wine that has some age.  Young wines (either red or white) with intense fruit flavors will not pair well as their strong fruits compete with the delicate black truffle.  Instead, serve black truffles with a wine that will mimic the truffle’s gentle earthy profile.  Think, for example, a Pinot Noir with some bottle development.   Floral wines of any type overwhelm black, as well as white truffles, and should be avoided altogether.

One of my favorite white truffle dishes is risotto.  Rice acts as a sponge absorbing every nuance of the ethereal white truffle’s complex savory flavor.  A creamy white truffle risotto needs a complex, creamy wine.  One great pairing is a lightly oaked, older Chardonnay (too much oak would interfere with the truffle and the older wine would have a less intense fruit profile.)  Another possible pairing for risotto is a dry Riesling with a little age.   A creamy sparkling wine with good acidity is another option, however, its fruit needs to be a background note, as do any yeast flavors that can compete with the delicate white truffle flavors and aromas.  A crisp sparkling wine also can help balance the richness of the risotto.

In addition to risotto or pasta, truffles can also complement meat, poultry, fish or seafood.  Keep in mind that when truffles are cooked they loose their flavor, thus, truffles should only be shaved on the top of the dish just before serving.  Use the same principles as with the risotto when pairing wine with these dishes:  choose earthy wines and stay away from florals.

With the exorbitant cost of truffles it’s important to get the wine pairing right.  In summary, avoid both youthful and powerful fruit-driven wines like Zinfandel or Malbec.  Instead, look for aged, complex wines whose musky profiles will complement the ethereal savory truffle.

Does Grand Cru Make a Difference?

Many serious wine-lovers feel Bordeaux’s 1855 Classification is way out of whack.  After all, the system was determined over 150 years ago and it was based on what wines were the priciest at that time.   To determine the hierarchy in 1855, the wines were simply grouped in clusters….the top four most expensive wines became Premier Grand Cru, the next price group became the second level Grand Cru, and so on.  Only 61 of Bordeaux’s wineries in 1855 made that list.  Today, Bordeaux has over 10,000 producers and covers an area that stretches for 80 miles.   Bordeaux 2019 is a completely different world.

The Commanderie de Bordeaux, one of the USA’s most prestigious wine groups, had a recent seminar.  I am a member of the Commanderie and made sure I attended this important educational tasting titled, “The 1855 Classification----Is it Still Relevant?”   There were approximately 20 people present.  The format went something like this:

                ~ There were 4 flights of wines

                ~ Each wine flight had two wines from the same appellation

                ~ Prices ranged from $49 to $175 per bottle

This was a completely blind tasting.   The only information given was that each flight contained a chateau in the 1855 Classification, as well as a non-classified wine from the same appellation.  Our charge was twofold:

                        1.  Determine which wine was classified, and which was not.
                        2.  Determine the appellation of the wines.

      

Many of these serious Bordeaux aficianados were able to determine which wines were from the 1855 Classification...and which were not.  (Keep in mind these classified wines were nearly double the price of the non-classified step-sisters.)   There were, however, some members who could not determine which one was the more costly wine (classified).   Identifying the exact location from where the grapes were grown (appellation) proved to be more more challenging for the group as a whole.  While I nailed which were classified and which were not,  I mixed up some of the appellations (e.g. St Julien with its contiguous Pauillac appellation).  

The final analysis?   There are some non-classified wines today that are better crafted than those from the 1855 Classification.  There are Third and Fourth Growth Grand Cru that outrank some of the First and Second Growths.  Don’t be swayed by designer wine from any part of the world, but especially from Bordeaux where an archaic rating system prevails.  There are superb classified growths, and there are wonderful non-classified growths.   Similarly, there are classified growths that are worthy of their price, and some that are not.  

New Years resolution?   Trust you gut.  Don’t trust an outdated classification.  Perhaps a blind tasting of some of the non-classified growths with a few of the classified mixed in is in order to ring in your 2019 properly?

Ancestry.Com for Wine Grapes

Genetic testing is all the rage these days.  Up until the 1990’s not even the wine experts knew a thing about the wine grape family tree.  Then, a riveting discovery was made by researchers at the University of California’s Davis.  Using DNA technology, scientists discovered the beginning elements of this family tree.  Now for America’s little secret: all of our famous wine grapes (e.g. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir) are immigrants.

The majority of wine grapes have been found to descend from a handful of ancient varieties.  These “founder” ancestors, have cross pollinated in age-old vineyards the to create new varietals.  Their children have then gone on to multiple marriages, and created a web of new grand-children.  Like a human family tree, the grape family tree is complex and filled with lots of stories.  As vineyards centuries ago were planted with a variety of different grapes right up against another, close quarters have created many offspring.

The grape family tree’s secrets are still being investigated by researchers. Here is what is known to date about some of our most common wine grape varieties: 

• Pinot Noir:   This founding varietal is one of the oldest and one of the primary ancestors for many wine grapes.  In fact, the Pinot family tree has 156 different wine grapes.  Pinot Noir has a high propensity to mutate.  Genetics-wise, Pinot Noir has the same DNA as Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris.  Pinot Meunier (used to make Champagne) is another close relative, as is Chardonnay and Gamay.

• Chardonnay:  This grape’s heritage is also surprising as it, like Cab Sauv, is due to an accidental crossing of a white with a red grape: the country bumpkin Gouais Blanc with the regal Pinot Noir.   DNA experts think the birth of Chardonnay occurred in Burgundy during the Middle Ages.

• Cabernet Sauvignon:  This one should knock your socks off.  Cab Sauv is a crossing between a white grape and a red grape:  Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc.   Researchers feel the marriage occurred in France during the 17^th century.

• Merlot:  This popular varietal is a cousin of Cab Sauv.  Merlot’s mother was Cabernet Franc and its father was a centuries-old grape by the name of Magdeleine Noire des Charentes. 

DNA fingerprinting is still uncovering many relationships for wine grapes.  Perhaps it’s time for a party with the theme of “Who’s your daddy?”    Might be fun to taste the parts of a certain grape's family’s tree!

Parlez-vous Champagne?

The language of the Champagne-making process is mystifying, especially to those who have never observed it in person.  The purpose of this Blog is to demystify it by breaking it down into three digestible pieces.  First things first, however; only a sparkling wine made in the demarcated area of Champagne, France can legally be called Champagne.  Now, here’s what you need to know about the process.

# 1:  Bubbles are created by yeasts

                                           Dead yeast cells are trapped in the bottle

     
After the wine is finished being made, a small amount of yeast is added to each bottle of wine, as well as a very small amount of sugar.   Bubbles form as a result of the yeast eating the sugar.  These bubbles are actually carbon dioxide which is given off by the yeast (those who have made bread well know the bubbling that occurs during yeast’s activity).  Carbon dioxide becomes trapped inside the bottle.  This process is known as the second fermentation in the bottle.

# 2:  Riddling is the process of how dead yeasts are prepared for extraction

                                          Riddlers turn each bottle daily over months

        
Once the yeast eats the sugar it lives for a short time and then dies.  These dead yeasts are called "lees."  The lees, like carbon dioxide, are trapped inside the bottle.  Riddling rotates the wine bottles a small amount each day to slowly move the dead yeasts toward the neck of the bottle.  Once the bottle is entirely inverted to a vertical position, it is ready for the next stage.

# 3:  Disgorgement is how dead yeasts are removed from the bottle

                            In a nano-second the frozen cube of dead yeast is removed

The vertical bottle is inserted into a super cold ice bath which essentially freezes the yeast debris trapped in its neck.  In the flicker of an eyelash, the cap of the bottle is removed and the frozen “yeast ice cube” pops out.  A new cork is now applied.  This is the disgorgement process.

Wine-Knows will be visiting Champagne in June of this year.  We’ll be tasting at some of the grandest producers of Champagne.  Currently there are three openings. For more information about this trip (which also visits Burgundy), check our website:   http://www.wineknowstravel.com/burgundy-champagne/

Top Dozen of 2018

I’ve had some really superb wines during 2018.  Several were simply outrageously divine.  A few were tremendous surprises.  Others represented a terrific quality price ratio.  Here’s the list for what moved me, all of which are currently available in the US.

Outrageously Divine

     ~ NV Ployez Jacquesmart Rosé Champagne.  This producer makes a Blanc de 

        Blanc, but it’s one made from Pinot Noir that sends me to the moon and back.  A 

        steal for $50.

     ~ NV Ferghettina Rosé Franciacorta.  Perhaps it was the enchanting winemaker?  

        Maybe it was the stellar sun-soaked day overlooking Lake Iseo, Italy?  Or, could 

        it be the sexy custom bottle shape?  It doesn’t matter.  This sparkling wine was 

        flat-out gorgeous. ($50)

     ~ 1990 Trimbach Gewurztraminer Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre.  This Grand Cru 

        single vineyard bone dry wine is still rockin’ the wine world nearly 30 years after 

        it was produced.  Thanks to Lynne & John for bringing this stunner to dinner 

        in our home.   ($200 if you can find it)

      ~ 2009 Chateau Beaucastel Blanc.  A blend of four white grapes from 

         Chateauneuf du Pape, this elegant little tropical bomb was ethereal.  I’ve visited 
         Beaucastel  in France several times.  I had this on my recent hallmark 

         birthday trip to the Christmas markets of Europe at a wonderful Michelin star 
         restaurant ($250)

       ~ 2001 Chateau Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape.  OMG.  The Popes would be 

         all over this one.  Powerful…definitely a religious red wine experience, we 
         served this at my recent black tie birthday bash before we left for Europe.  ($100)

       ~2007 Martinelli Zinfandel Jackass Vineyard.   I'm not a big fan of Cali Zins 
         because of their high alcohol but this one had me at hello.  With a gorgeous 
         velvet texture and notes of chocolate with dark berry fruit, the alcohol was 
         beautifully integrated.  ($110 and worth every penny)

Surprises:

       ~ 2015 Ca Rugate Recioto di Soave La Perlara.   I visited Ca Rugate for its dry 

          whites, so this was a big bonus.  This sweet white wine from the wine 

          district outside of Venice was absolutely gorgeous.  Think figs, flowers, apricots 

          and raisins all rolled into a beautiful wine.  ($45-50)

      ~ 2010 Prunotto Barbaresco.  We tasted a lot of Barbaresco on our recent Truffle 

         Tour to Piedmont---some of them older than this one.  Prunotto’s stood out as it 

         was drinkable now.  High Robert Parker score.  High June Dunn score.  ($70-90)

      ~ 2015 Sottimano Basarin Barbaresco.  While this one wasn't quite ready to 
         drink, one could see that if cellared for 5 or 6 years, it was going to be killer.  
         ($75-80)

Superb Values:

       ~ 2016 Ruche Montalbera Laccent.  This killer red is made from of cousin of the 
          Nebbiolo grape.  Buy a case! ($25 per bottle)

       ~ 2013 Prinsi Barbera.   Made with 50% dried grapes, this elegant, soft tannin 
          wine is ready to drink now.  (Knockout price of $20)

      ~ 2016 Woodwork Cabernet Sauvignon.  We stumbled across this great find in the 
         first class lounge at LAX recently.   I plan to use it primarily as a cooking wine
         for braised short ribs, coq au vin---or for Sangria this summer...but it is very                   drinkable on its own.  Unreal deal.   ($12)