Can You Taste the Earth Move?

                    Burgundy's Grand Cru hills were created by earthquakes

Some of my favorite wines from around the world are from soils that were created by cataclysmic earthquakes.  The most famous earthquake vineyards are probably those in Burgundy.  Millenniums ago a tremendous earthquake in the area created Burgundy’s Grand Cru vineyards.  The limestone of the Cote’d’Or (the “golden hill”) was forced out of the bowls of the earth by such a seismic event.

Not far from Burgundy are Alsace’s vineyards---they were also created by an earthquake.  The small wine town of Ribeauville sits almost on top of one of the main fault lines.   In fact, there are two main fault lines that criss-cross with several smaller ones in Alsace.  This may be a reason why there is a huge difference among wines that come from vineyards that are relatively close together---different soils have brought to the surface from varying fissures in the earth’s crust.

Further south in France are the earthquake vineyards of Gigondas located in Provence.  But, earthquake vineyards aren’t limited to Europe.  New Zealand was created from powerful underwater earthquakes that caused the seafloor to push up.  Located at the intersection of two of the world’s major tectonic plates, both islands of New Zealand are earthquake in origin.

Let’s not forget the American continents.  The San Andreas fault in California is responsible for the soils of the Central Coast and Napa/Sonoma.  Chile has produced some of the largest earthquakes in the world (a 9.5 in 1960 and the more recent 8.2 in 2014).  The movement of this same tectonic plate millenniums earlier created the Andes, the world’s longest chain of mountains.  Both California and Chile are known for wines created from these earthquake vineyards.

While there is no scientific evidence that fault-line vineyards directly affect the quality of the wine, there is thought that geology does play some kind of role.  For example, it is known that shifting faults lines not only juxtapose different types of bedrock in the soil, but that they affect ground water and can form valleys.  Indirectly, this can effect micro-climates which do have a profound effect on the wine.

Pisco Sour

                                                         Chile's beloved aperitif

I am with a group of Wine-Knows touring the vineyards of Chile.  There’s only so much wine one can drink.  Besides, who could ever pass up another of Chile’s super-stars, its Pisco Sour?  Made from a type of grape brandy, this stunning aperitif has it all going-on!

The Pisco alcohol actually originated in Peru, but is now made today by both countries.   Spanish settlers in Peru in the 16^th century began distilling the left-over grape must into a high-octane alcohol to mimic their native country’s brandy.  Soon its neighbor Chile began producing the spirit.  While Peru currently out produces Chile 3:1, Chile has much more stringent production rules for its Pisco.  In fact, Chile’s Pisco has its own D.O. zones---Pisco can only be produced from grapes grown in these two specific geographical areas of Chile.  Moreover, there are many Chilean laws to ensure quality.

There are many cocktails made from Pisco but my favorite by far is the Pisco Sour.  Think a type of blended margarita where Pisco replaces Tequila.   Another difference is the addition of an egg white (which thickens the texture but doesn’t have much influence on the taste).  The Peruvian version has the addition of bitters, however, the Chileans leave out this component. 

Need a recipe?  Check it out:  http://wineknowstravel.blogspot.com/search?q=pisco

The good news is that you don’t have to go to South America to enjoy a Pisco Sour.  It is becoming more and more popular and is available in many liquor stores (BevMo carries it). 

Viva Chile!

Chilean Sea Bass—It’s All About Marketing

                                         The Patagonian Toothfish is a cold water Cod

I leave in a few days for Chile.  One of my favorite foodie stories about this country has to do with Chilean Seabass.   Many of us enjoy the buttery flavor and unctuous texture of this fish.  I wonder, however, how many know that its true name is not even close?

Have you ever heard of the Patagonian Toothfish?  How appetizing does this sound? Would you be tempted to order a Toothfish of any type?  Chilean Seabass is a fantasy name created in the 1970’s as a marketing ploy to get Americans to purchase the Patagonian Toothfish.  And, it was an American fish importer who dreamed up the new name.  He was debating between two possibilities to entice the American consumer:   “Pacific Seabass” and “South American Seabass,” but in the end chose Chilean Seabass as he thought the specificity might be more attractive to consumers.  The rest is history.

You may also be surprised to learn that Chilean Seabass is not a member of the bass family, but is part of the icefish cod family.   This cod group is only found in very cold waters, including the deep part of the Artic.  (In fact, most of the Chilean Seabass brought into the US now is not Chilean, but from the Artic).  A few more surprises:  Did you know that this fish can live up to 50 years of age?  How about that it can grow up to >200 pounds?  Or, 7 feet in length?

What you do know about Chilean Seabass is that it’s not the kind of fish that would be served at a fish and chips kind of place, at least today.  Instead, it’s more likely to be served at a restaurant featuring the likes of lobster risotto or a luscious kobe beef.  That being said, in the 1980’s it was used by restaurants that could no longer afford halibut for its fried fish sticks.  Over the course of some 30 years, this fish has moved from Chinese restaurants looking for cheaper fish, to la crème de la crème dining establishments.  It really moved from total obscurity to Bon Appetit’s dish of the year in 2001.  

Chilean Seabass worked its way up the food chain due to a brilliant branding and marketing campaign.  Let’s raise a glass to the forgotten Patagonian Toothfish, and to the power of a name. 

Hearts of Palm Salad

                                                 A wonderful winter (or summer!) salad

I’m working on the finishing touches of Wine-Knows upcoming trip to Chile & Argentina.  Hearts of palm are a big deal in both countries and every day my lunch is a fresh hearts of palm salad (it’s usually served with a simple vinaigrette and tomatoes).   While fresh hearts of palm are unavailable in the U.S., Trader Joe’s and Costco carry the product canned.  Check out this  scrumptious salad, one of my most requested recipes.   

Serves 6-8 persons

Ingredients for Vinagrette:

• Small clove of garlic
• 1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves (stems removed)
• 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon lemon zest
• 1/2 teaspoon sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 cup good quality EVOO

Salad Ingredients

• 14 oz jar of hearts of palm
• 4 medium ripe, but firm, avocados
• 1 small red onion
• 1 head of Romaine lettuce
• Optional:  if its tomato season, I sometimes add bite size pieces

Make the Vinagrette:  

Mix first 5 ingredients in a food processor, then slow drizzle in the olive oil with machine still running.

Assemble the salad:  

Drain hearts of palm and cut into bite size pieces.  Place in salad bowl, along with thinly sliced red onion.  Cut each avocado into about 6-8 pieces (as you toss the salad, the avocados will disintegrate a little, so start with larger pieces).   Add avocado and head of Romaine torn in bite size pieces.  Mix in salad dressing and gently toss.  Adjust for salt and pepper. (Add leftover Turkey for a main course salad).

Bon provecha!

Chile’s Napa Valley

           The majestic snow-capped Andes provide a stunning backdrop for show-stopping wines

The central valley of Chile, located <100 miles south of the country’s capital city of Santiago, is one of South America’s most promising wine regions.  Called the Colchagua Valley, it is home to many of Chile’s finest red wines.  Some of these red wines have even beat out some of the world’s most impressive reds in blind tastings.  It’s no wonder why winemaking families like the Rothschilds from Bordeaux have flocked to this area to open wineries.

The Colchagua Valley boasts a textbook grape-growing climate for world-class red wines:  major heat to ripen fruit, but cool evenings which allows the vines to rest.  This extreme difference in day and night temperatures is called the “diurnal shift.”  In winemaking, the variance between day and night temperatures is what separates a table wine from a premier wine.  The cool nighttime from the nearby Pacific Ocean is exactly why Napa makes much better wine than the interior parts of California where the influence of the sea is absent at night, and there is little diurnal shift.

The hillsides of the Andes provide even more of a diurnal shift, thus it’s no wonder that some of the best spots for reds is on the lower slopes of the Andes.  Also adding to the quality of the wines in the Andes are the free-draining granite soils, and the more intense sunlight due to the higher elevation.  That being said, there are also some killer producers on the valley floor in favorable terroirs.  For example, vineyards near the valley’s main river are often prime due to the river’s moderating influence on the tremendous summer heat.  The valley’s floor also benefits from the soil washed down from the Andes.

Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah thrive in the Colchagua Valley.  So does the Carmenere grape.  While many of not heard of Carmenere, it was once one of the main grapes of Bordeaux.  While Carmenere is related by DNA to the Cabernet family, it is often confused with Merlot.  Carmenere is used in Chile as both a blending grape and is vinified as a 100% varietal.

Here’s a list of my favorite producers in the Colchauga Valley.  Wine-Knows will be visiting them all during our 2017 harvest tour in March:   www.WineKnowsTravel.com

• Altair
• Casa de Silva
• Lapostolle
• Los Macquis
• Montes

Argentina’s Napa Valley

                                         The breathtaking Andes offer a breathtaking backdrop

Mendoza is the Napa of 30-40 years ago...on the eve of the cusp of change. Like Napa which was once a bucolic, traffic free, agricultural area where a wide variety of crops were grown, Mendoza is now witnessing a plethora of new wineries, and along with them are new foodie restaurants and luxury hotels. During the 1970-80's, Napa's wines were beginning to make their mark on the world by winning prestigious awards around the globe.  This is all transpiring in Mendoza right now.

             Like Napa, there's been a huge influx of capital from around the globe.

Argentina’s version of Napa, Mendoza, is the largest wine region in Latin America.  Located 600 miles west of Buenos Aires, the province is home to >800 wineries.  Wine tourism is growing exponentially as traveling oenophiles discover these great quality/price ratio wines, as well as the charms of this interesting wine area situated at the base of the majestic Andes.

                         Catena Zapata offers a state of the art winery with jaw dropping wines 

Winemakers from the USA, France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Australia and Chile are flocking to this special spot in Argentina to work their magic.  Like the Napa Valley, Mendoza is quickly becoming a mecca for quality wine, celebrity-chef restaurants, and mesmerizing five-star hotels with all of the bells and whistles.   It’s rapidly changing and the time to see is now....before it becomes a victim of its own success.

                              Cutting edge chefs tantalize with unforgettable meals               

Wine-Knows will be taking a group of travelers to both Argentina and Chile for next year’s harvest in the southern hemisphere, March 2017 and there are still a few seats available on this trip.  For more information about our visit to Argentina’s Napa Valley, check out www.WineKnowsTravel.com.

Here’s a list of our top 5 fave producers (listed in alpha order) in Mendoza.  Many of these wineries, along with a terrific lineup of other mover-and-shakers, will be visited on next year’s tour:

• Archaval Ferrer
• Catena Zapata
• Fabre Montmayou
• Familia Zuccardi
• Vinalba

The Best Wine Regions for a Beach Holiday

Memorial Day weekend marks the beginning of the summer season.   Summer always makes me think of the beach, but it also makes me think of Vermentino, Rosé, Sancerre, Torrontes, Viognier and Albariño, along with light reds such as Frapatto and Pinot Noir.  Below are a list in alphabetic order of half a dozen vacation spots on five different continents that offer fantastic enticements for the beach lover, paired with a wine district <50 miles away.

                                     The Canaries' volcanic soils create some fabulous wines

Canary Islands, Spain

The Canaries have become immensely popular with Northern Europeans who come here by the planeloads to soak up the never-ending sunshine at seemingly never-ending beaches.  Located just off the coast of Africa, the Canaries were formed from underwater volcanoes millions of years ago.  Their volcanic soil makes for some of Spain’s most interesting white wines: appealing mineral notes from the soil and well-ripened fruit (think tropical fruits) from the abundance of sun.  Many wine experts are agreeing that the Canaries are making fascinating wines.  Check out the islands of Gran Canaria and the smaller Lanzarote; at both you’ll be surrounded by breathtaking beaches and vineyards.

Breathtaking inlets such as this are only a few minutes from Cassis.

Cassis, France

You may have not heard of this gem of a beach town as it doesn’t have the same panache as jet-setting St. Tropez, Cannes or Antibes.   While St. Tropez has bazillion Euro yachts, art galleries, and wannabes in skimpy bikinis, Cassis offers something much more majestic:  drop-dead gorgeous coves and beaches, along with one of the prettiest harbors you’ve ever seen.  While Americans flock to St Tropez, Europeans head to Cassis for an unspoiled view of French beach life.  The best part?  Two wine areas are within and easy reach.  One appellation, located in the hills just outside the village, makes lovely whites (Cassis A.O.C.).  The second area is Bandol, <30 minutes away where some rock star red wines are crafted.

              Views of Pebble Beach & its world-famous golf course can be seen in the distance                                            

Carmel-by-the-Sea, California

Many people don’t know that Carmel has one of the most magical beaches in the state.  (That’s because the storybook hamlet of Carmel is so ultra-charming that visitors never make it to the very end of the main street….regrettably, the beach is only a few blocks further downhill from the last of the village’s irresistible boutiques).   Many people, awe-struck by the beauty of Carmel, may not realize that they are also in close proximity of some terrific wineries.  Carmel Valley is an easy 20 minute trek where you will find several wineries (love Talbott) and some great restaurants (try Corkscrew Café for lunch).  However, if you don’t want to drive, many of the area’s wineries are opening up tasting rooms in the village of Carmel-by-the-Sea (don’t miss De la Tierra which offers good quality price ratio wines in an attractive tasting room).

                      Grape vines are only a few miles away on the Mornington Penninsula

Melborne, Australia

If you can possibly tear yourself away from Melbourne’s charming 19^th century Victorian-laced downtown, then head to its beach area.  It was a no-brainer to put this dramatic coastline on the list.   Not far from this shoreline are two different wine districts.   My favorite is the Mornington Penninsula  which offers some of the most stunning beaches I’ve seen.  Try the award-winning wines of Paringa and Red Hill, the last of which offers jaw dropping vistas of the seashore.  The other wine district, Geelong, is also worth a jaunt.

                                                La dolce vita on Sardenia

Sardinia, Italy

One of my favorite summer varietals is Vermentino.   One of my favorite beach experiences of my entire life was at the magnifico hotel, Pitrizza (www.pitrizzahotel.com) on the island of Sardenia, where the best Vermentino’s in the world are produced   Developed by the Aga Kahn in the 1960’s and now owned by the Emir of Quatar (one of the world’s richest men), the place is the epitome of quiet elegance.  Located on the island’s “Emerald Coast,” it’s within driving distance of wineries (that is, if you can possibly tear yourself away from La Pitrizza.) 

                                    Viña is a little slice of Chilean paradiso on the sea

Viña del Mar, Chile

Referred to by Chileans as “Viña,” this several mile long beach area is located just outside of Valapariso, one of the country’s main cities (and only 100 miles from the capital of Santiago).  Immensely popular with South American beach lovers, Viña seems to have it all:  powdered-sugar-sand, delightful beach-side restaurants, gentle waves for families, and nightlife for every decade.   Oh yeah, the Casablanca wine district is nearby which means opportunities in this mecca for whites and cool weather reds.  Opt for tastings at Veramonte and Morandé, the latter of which has an upscale restaurant with a cutting edge chef.

Spring with a Torrontes

Spring has sprung and there’s no better way to celebrate this glorious season than with a glass of Torrontes.  This relatively unknown grape is from Argentina.  Every time we take a group of Wine-Knows to Argentina, everyone comes back raving about Torrontes.  If you don’t know Torrontes, you should.  It's one of the best wine bargains around!

Torrontes is a white wine that that both women and men enjoy.  On its female side, its intriguing aromas are full of gentle flowers, peaches and apricots.  Males find its voluptuous mouth feel and silky texture pleasurable.  Everyone, however, is attracted to its moderate acidity which offers a backbone and allows the wine to pair well with food.  Some producers actually leave a little effervescence…perfect for toasting Spring, or as an aperitif on a warm Spring day.

Torrontes is Argentina’s flagship white wine.  While some have thought the varietal may be related to one in Spain, DNA testing has disproved this---it is actually native to Argentina.  Becoming more and more popular in the US because of its alluring characteristics, it is now fairly easy to find in a well-stocked wine shop.  BevMo, for example, carries several producers.  Moreover, it can be found easily online at places such as WineSearcher.com.   Some of the better producers include Catena and Zuccardi (both of these producers will be visited on the southern hemisphere’s harvest tour with Wine-Knows in March 2017).

For more information about this food and wine trip to both Chile and Argentina, check out the tour:   http://www.wineknowstravel.com/chile_argentina_itinerary.htm.

  

Quinoa---The Highest Protein Grain

Fields of ready-to-harvest Andes quinoa 

This time next year Wine-Knows will be in South America on tour for the Southern Hemisphere’s wine harvest.  Quinoa, one of the world’s highest protein grains, has always been a crowd-pleaser on our prior culinary & wine trips. We’re counting that this interesting grain will also tantalize the 2017 Wine-Knows crowd.

Quinoa (pronounced keen wah) is native to the Andes mountains of Peru and Bolivia.  It is actually the seed from a plant that grows up to six feet tall.  Archaelogical evidence shows that the seed has been used in the Andes’ diet for 3,000 – 4,000 years.  Surprisingly, quinoa is in the same family as beets and swiss chard.  Quinoa has become very popular in many countries around the world the last ten years as nutritionists learn more about the ancient grain (in January of this year Mc Donald’s just quinoa to its menu in Hong Kong).  

Nutritional analysis shows the super-food quinoa is a complete protein, which means it provides all nine essential amino acids for good health, including the heart-friendly Omega 3.  Amino acids are necessary ingredients for a strong immune system and healthy muscles, just to name a few of their many critical roles in promoting good health.  

Not all plant-based proteins, however, are created equal.   Most grains (such as wheat and rice) are missing one or more of the essential amino acids. Quinoa also offers delivers a generous amount of dietary fiber, as well as several B vitamins, and minerals such as iron, zinc, calcium, magnesium, manganese, and phosphorus.  The even better news is that it is gluten-free and easy to digest.  Last but not least, quinoa contains no cholesterol.

But, there’s also bitter-sweet news.  With the rising global popularity of quinoa, many of the people in Peru and Bolivia can no longer afford its price which has risen to keep up with demand.  While attempts have been made to grow it in Colorado’s mountains, it appears that the Andes micro-climate is one of the few places on earth that quinoa can flourish.

We only have 4 seats available on the 2017 harvest trip next March.  All of our previous South America trips have sold out early with waiting lists so we're expecting another sell-out crowd. Please contact us at your earliest convenience if you are interested.

Life is a Cabernet----Franc!

 

  Wine-Knows at Chateau Latour surrounded by Cab Franc

 

I’m Francophile…in this case, I’m referring to my love of Cabernet Franc, not my love of France.  One of the five grapes allowed in Bordeaux’s world-class reds, this close relative of Cabernet Sauvignon adds rich notes of raspberries, black currants and violets to this benchmark area’s blended wines.  Cabernet Franc is also less tannic and produces a smoother mouth-feel than Sauvignon---both of these essential to the complex red wines of Bordeaux.  Cabernet Franc, on the other hand, is not just a Bordeaux grape.  The varietal truly takes on rock-star status in another area of France, the Loire Valley.  Here it is vinified as a 100% varietal wine and is known as Chinon, Saumur or Bourgueil.

Cabernet Franc, however, is not just the step-sister of Cabernet Sauvignon.  It may surprise many of you to learn that Cabernet Franc is actually one of the parents of Cabernet Sauvignon.  DNA analysis shows that Cabernet Franc crossed in the vineyard with a neighboring Sauvignon Blanc plant and produced the off-spring we now call Cabernet Sauvignon.  This cross is thought to have taken place in France.

Now one of the world’s 20 most planted grapes, Cabernet Franc is grown outside of France in many wine districts around the globe.  In addition to Europe, Cabernet Franc is grown in the USA, South Africa, New Zealand and Australia.  When I was last in South America, both Chile and Argentina were growing the grape.  A young, cutting-edge Chilean producer (Maquis) was working closely with one of Bordeaux’s premier wine consultants and producing a killer 100% Cabernet Franc he aptly named “Franco.”  Argentine winemakers are also working with the grape but mainly as a blending variety.

 

What I love most about Cabernet Franc is its approachability at a young age.  Because of its lower tannin structure, it can be drunk much earlier than a Cabernet Sauvignon.  Moreover, I love its structure---especially this time of year when a lighter-weight (but equally compelling) red works better with the summer heat.  Last but not least, I’m a fan both of the grape’s flavor profile and texture.

Cheval Blanc, one of Bordeaux’s most highly esteemed estates, produces one of the world’s most expensive wines----it is 100% Cabernet Franc.  Need I say more? If you don’t know Cabernet Franc you should make it a point to exercise this  muscle.  Recommended producers, listed in order of price, include:

 

• Bernard Baudry La Croix Bausee Chinon (Loire)  $35
• Spring Valley Winery (Washington) “Katherine”  $50
• Pride Mountain (California)  $50
• Los Maquis’ Franco (Chile)  $60

Coming to Bordeaux with us for the 2016 Harvest tour?  You will learn a lot about what Cabernet Franc adds to the area's hallmark wines.   There is only one spot remaining for some lucky oenophile.  For more about this trip, check out
www.WineKnowsTravel.com.
 

2013: Le Crème de la Crème

This year’s best-of-the-best is filled with many wines that I have known in previous vintages, but there are also several that I’ve never tried, along with some that I never knew existed.  The wines, ranging from $25 - $150,  represent four continents.  While I have had many wines this year that cost >$500, they don’t appear because the value for me just wasn’t there---and, to be honest, the $30 Chilean wine of Altair may have beat many of them in a blind-tasting.  I have included only wines that are available in the US.   (While I tasted many over-the-top wines around the globe, regrettably, several are not exported to the US and thus were not included.) 

The list appears in alpha order by country.  All wines represent significant value considering their quality.

California

·        Stonestreet Terrace Ridge 2011.  A blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, this 
     classical white Bordeaux pairing had me at “hello.”  I believe it’s the first time the 
     winery has produced it, but I do hope it’s not the last.  Thank you to our 
     neighbors, Lynne and John (both of whom are in the wine business), for 
     introducing us to this beautifully crafted wine. ($35)

·        Paloma Merlot 2008.   I had never heard of this Napa Valley winery, but  a
     friend of mine in-the-know had.  Since I’ve had it, other savvy wine folks have              sung the wine’s praises which makes me think, “Is San Diego that far from Napa          that I could have missed this gem?”  Thank you, Fred, for popping the cork on              this one!  ($65)

Chile

·        Altair Sideral 2009.   Altair produces only 2 wines, both of which are red Bordeaux blends.  Grown on the foothills of the Andes by a well-known French wine family, these wines are stunning.  For the ’09 vintage, Sideral (their less costly one), stole the show.  In fact, I thought my glasses had been switched but the winemaker confirmed that the less expensive wine was my favorite for the first time in the last 9 years!  A real steal.  ($30)

·        Maquis Franco 2010.  Maquis produces stellar, high value wines.  This one is 100% Cabernet Franc (thus, it’s name).  The vines were planted >80 years ago by the winemaker’s grandfather who always thought that his land was perfect for the varietal.  Lafite-Rothchild’s just-retired winemaker was the consultant on the first vintage of Franco…and he agreed!  In fact, Lafite’s former winemaker recommended that it be bottled as a single vineyard wine. ($75)

France: 

•  Ployez Jacquemart d’Harbonville 1998.  Maybe it was the pairing with the scallops in a lobster sauce?   Maybe it was the private cande-lit dinner held for Wine-Knows in the home of the Champagne house’s owner?   I think I would have been just as ecstatic drinking it with tortilla chips in Mexico.  One of my fave producers, this was the best I’ve tasted from them.  ($150)

•   Chateau Le Nerthe White 2011.  Yeah, yeah, I know Chateauneuf de Pape is famous for its reds.   Listen to this red wine lover when I tell you that this one surpassed the tasting lineup of eight of the chateau’s best reds…which is saying something as the reds were fab. ($45)

• Domaine des Bosquets Gigondas Le Lieu Dit 2010.  For those of you who don’t know the southern Rhone’s Gigondas wines, you should.  Located near Chateauneuf de Pape, this producer had several stunning wines …this one, however, really grabbed me.  ($50)

New Zealand

•   Valli Dolce Vita Late Harvest Riesling 2011.  Not a Riesling fan?  Not a late harvest fan?  Doesn’t matter as this one is the bomb.  Our last night on this year’s reconnaissance trip to New Zealand we chose the restaurant based on if they carried this wine.  Need I say more?  ($50---available in 375 ml bottles)

•  Unison Pinot Gris 2011.  For those of you turning up your nose at a Pinot Gris because you’re thinking of some insipid Pinot Grigio from Italy, well…un-turn it!  This grape does wonders in New Zealand, and this winery’s rendition was dazzling.  ($25)

• Trinity Hill Tempranillo 2008.  We returned to the winery three times during our visit to New Zealand to buy another bottle of this one.  Crafted by one of the best winemakers in the country, it’s no wonder why this wine has won just about every Kiwi award there is.  ($30)

Jewels & Gems of Chile & Argentina

Choosing my favorite wines from our recent Wine-Knows trip to Chile & Argentina is akin to having to pick my favorite child.   Suffice to say our group had some mind-blowing, world class wines in both countries.  Here are the ones that caused the earth to move for me (listed in alpha order):

Altair 2009 Sideral ($26):

This producer makes only two wines of which Sideral is the least expensive (their main label is $70).    I’ve done a comparative tasting of both Altairs (both are Bordeaux blends dominated by Cabernet Sauv) on three different occasions and have always preferred their main label, however, this year it was Sideral that was the run-away winner!   I can’t think of any other more voluptuous red for $26 (or that matter for $36, $46, or $56).   Note:  the ’09 won’t be released until this summer…you can bet that we’ll be ordering cases.  (Production is small, so recommend seeking it out online at wine-searcher.com)

Catena Zapata  2010 Alta Chardonnay:  ($40 retail, but $25 now @ Costco)

I’m a red girl, however, this white was crazy good.  I was so impressed that I couldn’t wait to buy it until we returned and ordered a case of it on the internet from my hotel room in Argentina.  (Only to find out when we arrived home that Costco carries it for $25…no problema, picked up another case!)  Note that Catena produces a couple of different Chardonnays…this one is their most expensive “Alta” line.

Los Maquis 2010 “Franco”  ($90)

Made from 100% Cabernet Franc, this stunning wine is a new one in the portfolio of one of my most adored boutique Chilean producers.   Crafted in concert with a famous Bordeaux consultant (who has worked at Lafite-Rothschild and Margaux), this one should be placed in a blind tasting against  Cheval Blanc (also 100% Cab Franc)…folks may be surprised at which one wins.   Importer:  Global Imports in Berekley, Ca.

Montes 2010 “Purple Angel” ($60)

This was by far the finest example of the Carmenere varietal that we tasted.  (Brought to Chile in the 19^th century prior to phylloxera, it was not replanted in Bordeaux post infestation due to its late ripening tendencies.  In the warmer climate of Chile, however, Carmenere has achieved rock-star status).  Made from 93% Carmenere (7 % Petite Verdot), this one is a knock-out.   (Montes has excellent penetration in the U.S. market and Costco often carries many of their offering, including Purple Angel.)

Viu Manent 2011 Carmenere Secreto ($13)

This has to be the best bargain wine of the trip.  “Secreto” means “secret” and this shouldn’t be one.  Those of you who don’t know Carmenere should try this producer’s spicy little bomb filled with lush red fruits and soft tannins.  If they were charging twice the price, it would still be a steal.

Viu Manent 2010 Syrah, El Olivar Alto Vineyard  ($25)

OMG…all I can say is it you have find it, buy it!  This one is layers of complexity, on top of more layers of complexity.  Superbly made.

          Importers & distributors: http://www.viumanent.cl/about-us/distribution/north-
          america/

Chile’s Red-Hot Wines

 

We’re leaving shortly for Chile and there’s never been a better time to visit this wine-centric country.  While the earthquake in 2010 devastated the industry, the wine business is coming back and moving in the right direction.   For many years quantity trumped quality in Chile.  This is not necessarily the case now.  Today, although the country continues to pump out value-priced wines, it has finally figured out that serious global wine consumers want high quality as well as a good value.

Chile may also be leading the pack for savvy wine production in that many of its grapes are organically grown…and wineries are being rebuilt with green practices in mind.   Even more compelling perhaps is the abundance of cheap land and an inexpensive labor force that allows Chile to out-value its American and European competitors.  It's no wonder that the top wine-producing chateaux in France (e.g. Mouton Rothchild)  have flocked to Chile to set up outposts.

The same year of Chile’s earthquake, there was another tremor in the wine world…but this one was felt around the globe.   In a blind tasting in New York two Chilean wines beat out two of Bordeaux’s Premier Crus, along with some of California’s much coveted cult wines and Italy’s mega-Euro Sassacaia.  The judges?  A sophisticated group of 100 that included top wine critics, sommeliers, and retailers.   The winning wines?  One was made from Chile’s signature grape, Carmenere (once a Bordeaux varietal),  the other was a Bordeaux blend (Cabernet + Merlot).

Chile’s new darling varietal, however, may be Pinot Noir.  While Chile’s hallmark grapes have been the warm varieties (e.g. Cabernet, Carmenere), the country boasts 3,000 miles of coastline and offers perfect growing conditions for the cooler varietals.  Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc all are thriving in Chile’s cooler maritime climates.  Chile is no longer a one-trick pony that knocks out solely muscular stallions.  It is turning out some well-pedigreed fillies that are sure to gallop away with world-wide recognition.

Viva Chile…I can’t wait to return!

The Latest Culinary Craze from South America

I’ve long been a fan of paprika, however, this one is like no other.  I was introduced to Merquén in 2006 in Chile.  One of the country’s best chefs used it in salmon dish at a lunch I attended….it was love at first bite.  I was so enamored with the seasoning that I had our driver stop at the nearest supermarket in Santiago where I bought every bag they had…all 25.  I gave them to all my foodie friends back home, but not one had ever heard of it.

Two years later Merquén (also called merken), came out of the culinary closet at the Fancy Food Show in NYC.  The biggest culinary extravaganza probably in the world, this show boasts over 6,000 booths of gourmet products.  Who’s Who of the cooking world attends.  In 2008, Merquén became one of the stars of the show when one of Chile’s star chefs used the spice in a cooking seminar.

Merquén is a mixture of dried and smoked Chilean peppers that has been seasoned with toasted cumin, coriander seeds and salt.    The base of this ethereal seasoning is a smoked pepper  “cacho de cabra.”  These green peppers are left to hang on their vine until  they turn a deep crimson color, then they are painstakingly smoked over a wood fire.  The process is long and arduous.  The results are magic.

The spice is indigenous to the Mapuche, the native people of Central Chile. The paprika-like blend adds heat, an intense smoky flavor, saltiness and a subtle but complex aroma to foods.  It is commonly found on just about everything from meat and seafood to vegetables, savory pies and stews.  At the Fancy Food Show they even used it on cheese…and it worked.

Merquén has been embraced by Chilean and international chefs which has led to Merquén-infused olive oil, Merquén flavored pepper, etc.  It’s now being used as a dry rub for meat, fowl and fish, as well as added to cerviche, as well as on peanuts or olives.  If you’re not coming on the March tour to Chile & Argentina, you can find it online at LaTienda.com under "merken."

Argentina’s High Altitude Wines---the World’s Healthiest?

While red wine is known to exert a protective cardiac function, the exact mechanism has been unclear until recently.  Research shows that red wine is a potent inhibitor of a detrimental substance that wreaks havoc on blood vessels.  The villain, called Endolthelin-1, causes blood vessels to constrict and fatty plaques to form.  The hero, antioxidant polyphenols (found in skins of red grapes), block the formation of the harmful Endolethelin-1.  

Argentina boasts the world’s highest vineyards.  Grapes grown in Argentina’s Andes have demonstrated significantly higher levels of these beneficial polyphenols.  Vines grown as high as 5,000 feet has been shown to produce wine that is twice as potent in blocking the damaging Endolethelin-1 in contrast to grapes grown in the country’s lower vineyards.  In comparison to Chile, Argentinean grapes grown at lofty elevations provide more than triple the power in cardiac defense.  Moreover, Bordeaux wine only afforded a mere 10% of Argentina’s high altitude strength in preventing heart disease.

So, what is it about elevation that makes the difference?  Higher altitude vineyard sites are closer to the sun.  Grapes implement a defense mechanism against the sunlight intensity by thickening their skins, resulting in higher polyphenol levels.   Resveratrol, one of these polyphenols, has been shown to have great anti-oxidant properties.  Antioxidants have been shown in numerous medical studies to protect the heart.

High altitude wines, however, may promote more than just cardiac health.  Resveratrol has been found to have implications for destroying human cancer cells.  This important polyphenol may also have “fountain of youth” inference as it has been shown to encourage cell survival during times of stress.

Altitude has become somewhat of a status symbol among Argentinian wine producers, each daring to plant slightly higher than his neighbor…in spite of the enormous finances required to build at this elevation, as well as the risk of frost damage.  Argentine vintner Nicolas Catena Zapata has been widely credited for elevating the status of these high altitude wines through serious experimentation into the effects of high altitude.  (Zapata’s daughter, who is a physician at the University of California Medical Center in San Francisco, has been key in orchestrating the research).  Those of you coming with us in March 2013 for the harvest tour, will have the good fortune to have a private dinner at the Catena Zapata winery.

Here’s to your health!