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Friday, June 15, 2018

Let the Party BeGIN !

I'm preparing to board a flight from Nice to London and I'm contemplating my first gin and tonic.  Not only is it one of my favorite summer drinks, but four of my closest friends are waiting for me at Heathrow and I know they all love it as well.  I am already envisioning our nightly aperitif on the riverside terrace of the historic Cotswolds home that I've rented for the week.

                       Our Cotswold home was once an old mill...note the gin & tonic chairs

Gin's history goes back to the Middle Ages.  While many associate gin with Great Britain, this spirit has roots in the Netherlands where the mixture supposedly originated.  Once sold in pharmacies for the treatment of kidney, gout or stomach ailments. the elixir was also used by Dutch soldiers prior to battle to help decrease anxiety.

Gin became very popular in England in the 16th century.  During this period a heavy tax was levied on all foreign liquor by the British government.  Locally-made gin, however, was not taxed.  Overnight, gin became the alcohol of choice, especially among the poor since English gin was dirt cheap.  However, too much of a good thing became a huge social issue.  To reduce over-consumption, legislation was finally passed to tax British gin.  There were riots in the streets.

Ingredients of gin are closely guarded trade secrets among the distilleries.  While the main ingredient, juniper berries, is always present, each company offers their own spin with a melange of other botanicals.  Gin can have floral nuances.  It can have a citrus profile.  Or, it can tend toward herbal notes.

                                  These botanicals are a sampling of what are used in gin

Today, gin has come full circle in a kind of Cinderella story.  Once a drink of the impoverished, it is now sold in fancy packaging and a an impressive selection appears in swanky bars.  It's moved well beyond the local pub-gin-and-tonic, to a high end alcohol that can be served solo at the most exclusive of restaurants.  For example, the most expensive gin, Watenshi, sells for the equivalent of $3,000 a bottle in London.  In a smaller package than the standard wine bottle, Watenshi is one that should definitely be sipped at the end of the meal like a fine Cognac.

I will be conducting a blind gin tasting with my four friends.  Watenshi won't be on the list, but here are the contenders:

   ~ Martin Miller (made in England using water from Iceland)
   ~ Oliver Cromwell (supposedly a great bang for the sterling)
   ~ Hendrick's (made in Scotland)
   ~ William Chase  (made in western England near the Wales border)


Friday, June 8, 2018

Awesome Antibes for Food-Lovers


              Antibes has it all:  Picasso's Museum, glorious scenery & a food-lover's paradise

I took the Julia Child group this week to the glorious seaside town of Antibes to shop for dinner ingredients.  A super charmer surrounded with centuries-old stone walls overlooking the Mediterranean, it also offers a cornucopia of delicious culinary gems.    

Antibe’s outdoor covered market was a must visit first stop.  The olive selection was mesmerizing with an endless parade of sizes, shapes and preparations (e.g. tampenade in every imaginable flavor).  Vegetables included fava beans, tomatoes, fennel, zucchini, leeks, peppers in several different colors, an array of ten different types of radishes, and a mélange of jaw-dropping lettuces.   Fruit vendors offered an enticing array of intoxicatingly fragrant products.  The strawberries and raspberries were sublime, as was the local Cavaillon melon which you could smell ten feet away.   



Close to the outdoor market was one of the Holy Grails for foodies.  Fabre (whose moniker is “the master of meat,”) has been in business since 1899.  This boucherie was Julia’s favorite meat purveyor.   After visiting I now understand why.  Fabre’s showcases featured milk-fed veal and Kobe beef among a gorgeous array of meats that could have walked the red carpet at the nearby Cannes’ Film Festival.  This place is the real deal for serious meat-lovers.


Not far from Fabre’s butcher shop was a killer boulangerie by the name of Veziano.  Even though I went to buy their late-bake breads for breakfast, I couldn’t resist the pissaladiere, the French Riviera’s version of pizza with carmelized onions, niçoise olives and anchovies.

With a few blocks was another tempting place.   La Ferme au Foie Gras was the perfect foodie emporium offering a huge array of culinary gifts for friends back home.

Need wine?  The Julia Child group did so we picked up some great wines at the city's well-stocked wine shop,  Cave La Trielle d'Or.  In addition to a terrific collection of Provence wine, there was a superb selection of Bordeaux, Burgundy & Champagne.

                                             
Table linens or items for the kitchen?  No problem.   Old town Antibes was a maze of pedestrian-only streets filled with the best that France has to offer for your home. There was one problem, however, that most of the women I brought to Antibes had.  Where was the luggage store to buy an extra suitcase?




Friday, June 1, 2018

Charming Hills Towns of the Riviera


                                   Minutes away from the Riviera's beaches...but another world

I've just arrived on the French Riviera.  Many people think beaches or film festival when they think of this area.  While I love the beach and the glitz and glam of Cannes or Cap d’Antibes, I actually prefer the hill-top villages a few miles inland from the Mediterranean.  Many of these perched villages are filled with day-trippers from Nice, but I especially love them in the evenings when these stone hamlets revert back to the locals.   Children play in the park, beret-touting men gather to play petanque (bocci ball), and cafes are filled with French drinking pastis.  Below are my three favorite villages.

Mougins

Fashionable Mougins is so picture-perfect that it feels like a movie-set.  It’s no wonder that Catherine Deneuve, Yves St Laurent, and Christian Dior have chosen to live here, as have Winston Churchill and Pablo Picasso.  With perfectly-coiffed backstreets, this tony hilltop town exudes a refined air of elegance and sophistication.  Only 15 minutes from Cannes, Mougins feels a world away.   

                                            Mougins' charms are irresistible

No cars are allowed in the old village, requiring visitors to park in lots around the outskirts.   Although the immediate area surrounding the ancient village has grown dramatically in the last 40 years (drop-dead gorgeous villas appear in every nook and cranny), the actual hilltop town remains untouched from centuries past.  

Wandering the cobblestoned streets you’ll find several art galleries, along with high-end boutiques and antique stores.  The center of the town has a pretty center square ringed by numerous restaurants and outdoor cafes catering to those with a big wad of Euros in their designer wallets.  But, the entire package is one of a quiet refinement that is friendly to visitors.

Biot
                              The feel of Biot is a local's village ...devoid of the Riviera's bling

Also an ancient hillside village, Biot is the antithesis of Mougins.  Biot’s main street offers resident services such as a city hall, post office, bank, teensy supermarche, and a boulangerie.  There are a few tourists shops sprinkled in between, some featuring the city’s famous glass and others offering the usual Provencal goodies made from the area’s brightly colored fabrics.   

Like Mougins, no cars are generally allowed in Biots narrow cobblestoned streets.  A walk through its backstreets is like a step back in time.  Whereas impeccable Mougins’ buildings are perfectly coiffed, Biot offers a slice of reality....a few stray cats, old olive oil tins that have been turned into make-shift geranium planters, and clotheslines strung between buildings filled with laundry.  It feels like an authentic village.  

                                        Biot glass is available in every shade of the rainbow 

An added bonus for Biot is its artisinal glass blowing factories where visitors can watch artisans making the city's famous bubble glass.  Although there is a Michelin star restaurant in Biot, my favorite is Les Arcades.  This small hotel-restaurant offers a rare slice of life from the old Provence.  The family that owns Les Arcades has been renting rooms and feeding diners for over a century.  As it was also one of Julia Child's favorite places, I am bringing both of the Julia cooking groups here for dinner.

St Paul de Vence


                         Art galleries throughout the village feature paintings such as this 

The stunning pedestrian-only village of St Paul de Vence has it all: one of the Riviera's top modern art museums, chic boutiques, pretty squares filled with fountains and stone bougainvillea-dripping buildings, plus a plethora of gorgeous restaurants with attractive outdoor dining.  It has that je ne sais quoi that defies description. 

One of the oldest medieval villages on the Riviera, St Paul has only 3,500 lucky residents (like most of the Riviera hilltop towns, however, the majority of the population lives outside of the old town in swanky villas).  This is an art lover’s paradise.   There’s an endless array of galleries filled with eye-popping paintings of the beautiful town, and the Maeght Museum along with Chagall’s nearby masterpiece wow even the most discerning art lover. 

Foodies will appreciate an assortment of shops filled with everything from hand-dipped chocolates to high-end olive oils from the region.  One of my faves is La Petite Vigne which offers a killer selection of the best of Provence's culinary specialties.  The shop also has a 50-shades-of-pink selection of Rosés.


Friday, May 25, 2018

A Foodie’s French Riviera



In a few days I’ll be flying to Nice for two weeks at the estate in which Julia Child wrote her famous cookbook duo, Mastering the Art of French Cooking.   I’m already dreaming of the Riviera’s culinary landscape.   What’s not to love about olives, herbs de Provence, lamb, and bouillabaisse, right? 

One of my favorite experiences on the Riviera is to visit the supermarche of all supermarkets.  Carrefour in Antibes is like Whole Foods, Costco and William Sonoma all under one roof…but on steroids.  There are 73 check-out lines and the staff wear roller skates to traverse the seemingly football-sized-stadium offering everything that any foodie could possibly desire.   There are four monstrous aisles of just yogurt alone.  The place is mind-boggling.  If you can’t find it here it probably doesn’t exist.  Check out this quick video of the incredible store:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RXC3nbPe1o

Another special place for the food-lover to procure ingredients for a dinner or a picnique is the polar opposite of Carrefour.   Cannes’ Forville Marché is a covered market in the center of the super swanky city, just a few blocks from where the star-studded film festival is held.  It was one of Julia Child’s favorite places to shop, especially for fish.  I’m taking both groups I’ve organized for a week’s homage a Julia here.   Hopefully one of the groups will be cooking bouillabaisse that night for dinner.

                                     Alziari's is a treasure trove for foodie gifts to bring home

My favorite olive oil producer’s shop is located in the heart of old town Nice.  The Nicolas Alizari company has been producing magnifique oils since 1868.   This jewel box of a store makes a perfect visit when wandering through the cobblestone streets of the historical center.  

Cours Selaya market in Nice offers a bounty of fresh food products

Not far from Alziari you’ll find Nice’s famous outdoor covered market.  Less than 100 meters from Nice’s bikini-clad beach, you’ll find vendors whose families have been renting the same food stalls for generations.  Don’t miss the "socca lady" selling the Riviera’s beloved garbanzo bean crepes called socca---she cooks them as her ancestors did over an open wood fire in a huge, specially-crafted skillet.  And, do sample everyone’s tampenade as each family has their secret twists on the classic.

                               Stunning Biot glass can be mailed home from the factory

The French Riviera offers a plethora of yummy edibles for the gourmand, however, don’t forget the mind-boggling array of Provencal fabrics to buy for your tablescape back home.  Gorgeous placemats, napkins and tablecloths can be found at every outdoor market in Provence's colorful fabrics, as well as some of the area’s finest shops (but make sure you get the ones made in France and not the Chinese knockoffs).  Finally, don’t forget to pay a visit to the enchanting village of Biot, where artisan glass-makers are still making the town’s famous bubble glass into stunning wine and water goblets, and over the top dinner service.



Friday, May 18, 2018

Where it All Started: America’s Foodie Movement


                                  Julia Child changed the culinary landscape of America

It all began in Paris.  Julia Child enrolled in 1949 in Paris' Cordon Bleu cooking school.  Having grown up in an entitled California family that had a chef, Julia didn’t know a thing about the kitchen.  However, her husband had accepted a job in Paris with the Foreign Service Department and Julia was determined to expand her horizons.  Never mind that the Cordon Bleu at that time was only open to professionals---Julia had attended a demonstration at the school and was hooked. Before long, she had talked her way into the program.

Through her cooking activities in Paris Julia met Simone Beck a few years later.  Madame Beck was from an aristocratic family in Normandy, and she had also attended the Cordon Bleu.  Soon Julia and Simone joined with another gourmand, Louisette Bertholle.  Before long the three were working on the first volume of Mastering the Art of French Cooking.

During the 1950’s American cuisine was one built around convenience.  Women were joining the workforce and didn’t have time for cooking.  Frozen and canned food composed le menu du jour.  TV dinners were immensely popular for the working mother.  Quick and easy was in:  instant powdered soups were in (remember Lipton’s dried onion soup?) and renditions of tuna casseroles appeared in every woman’s magazine.  Frozen fish sticks were a favorite as were sloppy Joe’s.  Few purchased fresh vegetables or fruits as they spoiled too quickly---besides, everything was available canned or frozen.  It was a horrific time in America’s culinary history.

Then, in 1961, came Mastering the Art of French cooking which sowed the first seeds for change in America's foodways.  But, it was Julia’s TV cooking program launched in 1963, The French Chef, which brought the idea of a brave new world to the American housewife.  With her disarming personality, Julia demystified French cooking.  By the 1970’s, she had become a celebrity, and food and cooking had become as much a part of the pop culture as fashion, art, or rock n roll.

Julia Child inspired many food personalities of today.  One was Alice Waters who grew up watching Julia on television and went to France to study cooking right after her university studies.  While the 1960's and 70's belong to Julia, Alice inspired many of us with her farm to table ideas nearly 40 years ago.  Alice's restaurant, Chez Panisse in Berkeley, is a mecca for many foodies and is one of the most awarded and renowned restaurants in the world.  Alice was also was one of founders of the entire organic food movement.   Alice owes her start to Julia.

Merci beaucoup, Julia!



Friday, May 11, 2018

Sparkling Wines of Burgundy


                          Cremant can be made from the same grapes as nearby Champagne

Burgundy, France’s smallest wine region, is contiguous with the Champagne wine district.  You pass from one region to the other without any fanfare----on one side of the road is Champagne, the other side is Burgundy.  While every village in Burgundy produces a sparkling wine, only the bubbles in the Champagne region may put the word Champagne on their sparkling wine label.  The Burgundians call their bubbly Cremant.

Although today in Burgundy Cremant is not seen as one of the area’s Premier wines, it was not always so.  In 1827 records indicate that there were >1,000,000 bottles of Burgundy’s Cremant sold.  Furthermore, when Napoleon and Josephine passed through Burgundy in 1860, the red carpet which was rolled out for them included several  Cremant.

Cremant from Burgundy is often made from the same grapes as are used in Champagne, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.   In fact, Burgundy’s Cremant has some of the most stringent wine-making rules, so don’t think that Burgundian winemakers can turn their less successful wines into this less known bubbly.   Like Champagne, Cremant is also produced in blanc de blanc (white grapes), blanc de noir (from red grapes) and also Rose.

While I have mentioned Champagne in this article many times, let me be very clear.  I am in no way suggesting that Cremant is Champagne.  Burgundy’s terroir is different.  What I do want to say, however, is that there are some very well made Cremants that offer great value in comparison to Champagne.  It’s also worth noting that the popular Kir aperitif is Burgundian in origin.  Mixed with the area’s black currant liqueur (Crème de Cassis),  Kir Royales can be made by using Cremant versus a still wine.

Officially known as Cremant de Bourgogne, Burgundy's sparkling wines can offer an interesting change for bubble lovers.  Here are some examples to try (all are about $20).  Any would be perfect for a Mother's Day celebration.
     
    ~ Louis Bouillot, Perle d’Auore
    ~ Vitteaut-Alberti, Cuvee Agnes
    ~ Parigot





Friday, May 4, 2018

Suave Soave




Spring has sprung and I can’t think of a better way to celebrate its arrival than with a glass of a well-made Soave (swah vay).   This bone dry white wine comes from the wine district just west of Venice near Romeo and Juliet’s city of Verona.  Made from two grapes that are not grown in the US, Soave offers a wonderful opportunity to ring in Spring by exercising your wine muscle in a new way.

Soave is the name of a medieval town, the name of the wine district, as well as the name of the wine.  Only white wine is made in Soave and the majority of it comes from the Gargenega grape.  Soave can be made from as much as 100% of Gargenega, but by law Gargenega must be at least 70% of the blend.  Gargenega grapes provide high acidity, therefore, offer a powerful structure to the wine. The other grape allowed is Trebbiano, a quite historical grape native to Italy.  One of Italy’s most popular white grapes today, this varietal was used by the Romans to vinify wine, and it was introduced to France by Italy when the Pope moved his headquarters from the Vatican to Avignon in the 14th century.

The flavor profile of Soave is influenced by the terroir in which the grapes grown.  Located at the base of the Italian Alps, Soave has benefited from millenniums of the Alps erosion.  The volcanic soil washed down has a powerful effect on the taste profile of the wine.  Expect nuances of minerality such as flint and lead pencil interspersed with subtle flavors of citrus, almonds, and honey….even though the wine is completely dry.  Aside from the almond and honey notes, Soave can be similar to a Chardonnay.

Look no further than award-winning producer Ca Rugate for a well-crafted Soave.  This family has a heartfelt bond with the land and has been making wines for several generations.  If you’re one of the lucky folks coming with us on the sold-out Northern Italy Truffle tour this fall, you will have a professional level tasting at Ca Rugate.  If not, you may want to pick up one or more of the following of their stunning Soave for a spring fling:

  • Ca Rugate Soave Monte Alto
  • Ca Rugate Soave Studio
  • Ca Rugate Soave Monte Fiorentino
  • Ca Rugate Soave San Michele (a best buy)