Michelin Stars: A Changing Galaxy

 
           Bordeaux's 2 star Michelin restaurant, Lalique, offers a myriad of luxurious trappings

A Michelin-starred restaurant probably brings to mind linen tablecloths, fine  china, sumptuously upholstered chairs, extensive wine lists, as well as exorbitant prices, but the Michelin galaxy has shifted on its axis.   While luxurious trappings once appeared to be part of Michelin’s criteria, the gastronomic behemoth has altered its measures to focus solely on quality of food. 

In short, The Michelin Guide now awards its stars to chefs offering outstanding cooking.   While the identity of Michelin judges granting these stars is a deeply guarded secret, the company openly states they now take into account the following criteria:

          ~ Quality of ingredients

          ~ Harmony of flavors

          ~ Mastery of food preparation techniques

          ~ Personality of the chef as expressed through his/her cuisine

          ~ Consistency of the food

          ~ Value for the money

                  A Michelin star taco stand in Mexico City serves its meals on plastic plates

Forget the crystal chandeliers, over-the-top floral arrangements, impeccable service, extravagant artwork and disregard the term “restaurant.”  Although Michelin stars are indeed still granted to opulently appointed restaurants offering astronomically priced food and wines, the above new measures based solely on food quality has ushered in a once unthinkable cadre of intergalactic VIPs.   Michelin has granted a coveted star to a street food vendor in Thailand, a food stall in a Singaporean mall where meals are served on plastic plates, a ramen noodle joint in Tokyo, and even a taco truck in Mexico. Better yet, two Michelin stars have been given to a simple dim sum restaurant in China.  

A new stellar landscape has been birthed.   How exciting to see what a different orbit in our global culinary world will bring.  May the force be with us.

Are Michelin Stars Worth the Hype?

       Michelin stars used to be awarded for setting, tablescape, artwork, flowers, service & wine list

I was in France for >6 weeks  recently and dined at a series of Michelin star restaurants.  My mission was to answer the following question:   do these pinnacles of gastronomy still deserve my heart and my credit card?   Let me shed a little light on my quest.

The criteria for receiving a Michelin star has changed since my first star dining experience >40 years ago in Paris.  For example, ambiance used to be a big criteria, but the last ten years Michelin stars have been awarded to pubs, sushi bars, and even noodle joints.  Elements of fine dining, likewise, are no longer vital to receive a coveted Michelin star.  Food is the touchstone (regardless of setting) with items such as use of quality ingredients, the chef's mastery of culinary techniques, consistency of food, and value being some of Michelin's current star criteria.

This reversal in Michelin's star measures may explain why the last few years that my  Michelin star dining experiences have resulted in disappointment.   Beforehand, I have been wowed with luxurious trappings such as elegant floral arrangements, gorgeous china & cutlery, top notch stemware, flawless service, fabulous linens, and a mesmerizing wine list.  All of this was before I took my first bite.  In the past the food had nearly catapulted me out of my comfortable silk upholstered chair.  Over the past few years my experience at Michelin stars, however, have not moved me more than an inch or two…mostly because the chair was bare bones and not at all comfortable.

Over the course of 6 weeks I dined in two different one star Michelins, and two restaurants that had been awarded two stars.  All were luxurious old world dining experiences with all the bells and whistles for what Michelin stars used to be.  The cost for food varied from $150-300 per person (wine was extra).  I am happy to say, they were all worth the hype.   All were deserving of their catapulted ranking.  Food at all were the stars of the show, and the chefs were all pushing the creativity angle.  Service was superior.   Both  of the two star Michelins had wine lists that were nearly 100 pages.

All four restaurants were worthy of my credit card and my admiration.  I've listed the four below in the order in which I dined.  I would dine in all of them again in a heart beat.  I've also noted my remarks noting their most worthy features:

• Restaurant Lalique, Sauternes (two stars).   MOST CREATIVE
• Les Terrailiers, Biot (one star).  BEST VALUE
• Des Rois, Beaulieu sur Mer (one star)   MOST DAZZLING SETTING
• Chevre-D'Or, Eze (two stars)   MOST ENCHANTING