Amarone---from Obscurity to Stardom

     The historic estate of Dante Alighieri's has been leased for Wine-Knows' 2018 harvest tour

Pick up a wine magazine published in the last few years and chances are there will be an article about these rich, dark, voluptuous reds from northeast Italy.   Amarone has moved from relative anonymity to more front and center stage.  This is even more impressive in an era when lighter style wines are in vogue and consumers are shying away from higher alcohol wines.  Amarone is big, bold, and complex with alcohol levels that can vary between 14-17%.

It’s full name is Amarone della Valpolicella, but it is usually referred to simply by Amarone.   The wine is named after the district in which the grapes are grown, Valpolicella (which means the “area of many wineries”).  Located just north of Romeo and Juliette’s city of Verona and only 70 miles from Venice, Valpolicella has been producing wines since the Romans arrived a few millenniums ago.  Amarone was given its own special DOCG status by the Italian government in 2010.

                    

                    Amarone's grapes are dried for months prior to being made into wine

Amarone is like no other wine in that it is made by an ancient technique called appassimento.   The appassimento process involves laborious air drying of the grapes on wooden racks for more nearly four months, carefully turning the dehydrating fruit regularly to check for rot.  It involves a special building designed for ultimate ventilation.  The wine also relies on a lot of help from Mother Nature.  Winds from the nearby Alps are essential; however, moisture (which promotes mold) is a big problem.  Grapes (all local varietals unknown to Americans) typically lose 30-40% of their moisture before they are vinified.

The final product is a full-bodied, high-powered wine.  Raisin-like grapes have concentrated sugars which ultimately convert to alcohol.  In spite of its strength, if Amarone's alcohol is in balance with the other elements, the wine can be seductive with an enticing nose of black cherries, figs and spices such as cloves.  Its taste yields beguiling rich, dense, and velvet textures.  To appreciate its charm, however, it must be served with the right food.  Full-bodied foods, such as hearty meat dishes, are a great pairing.   Fish or chicken generally won’t work.  Amarone can pair with strong cheeses such as Stilton, or other big-flavored, aged cheeses.

                  Braised short ribs and a glass of Amarone are a marriage made in heaven

Amarone production has risen to 15 million bottles per year, a staggering increase of nearly 700% in the last 20 years.   Again, considering the trend is moving away from high alcohol wines, this ought to tell you something about how special Amarone is.   Why not try an Amarone during the upcoming holiday season?  Masi, an outstanding producer, is readily available in the US.   BTW: Wine-Knows’ 2018 harvest tour to Valpolicella and Piedmont will be staying on the historic Masi estate which was once owned by Renaissance personality Dante Alighieri.   Join us!   www.WineKnowsTravel.com

Enticing Valpolicella

                                  Sensational Lake Garda is home to Valpolicella wines

How can you possibly go wrong with a wine district whose name means “valley of many wine cellars?”  Another no-brainer:  its location is between the magical cities of Venice and Verona.  Last, add to the equation that the stupendously beautiful Lake Garda is part of the wine region.  Valpolicella is compelling on all of these levels, and many more.

Wines have been made in the Valpolicella district since the time of the ancient Greeks before the birth of Christ.  In 1968 the region was awarded its own DOC (appellation) by the Italian Government.  Since then, parts of the district have been bestowed a further award by the granting of a special DOCG to the area's Amarone wines.  (Amarone, the region’s pricey flagship wine, will be discussed soon in a future article.)

Valpolicella is both a wine-producing district and a wine.  Red is the dominant color.  Reds are made from a combination of grapes, all mostly unknown to Americans.  Corvina, the main varietal, is blended with other grapes such as Rondinella and Moninara.   The most basic level Valpolicellas are light-bodied, lower in alcohol, and noted for their cherry flavor.  Valpolicella Superiore wines, however, must be aged a minimum of one year in oak barrels.  The Superiore is more complex and offers more structure along with more intense aromas of dried cherries.  Often times the Superiore version is made using an old wine making method in which the aristocratic skins remaining from the area’s powerful Amarone wines are mixed in with Superiore must and undergo a secondary fermentation.

Both levels of Valpolicella wines frequently offer great quality/price ratios on wine lists.  Equally important, these wines pair well with most foods.  The Superiore is especially nice with grilled poultry and meats, and can stand up to pastas that use strong cheeses such as Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Wine-Knows will be in the Valpolicella district next year on its Northern Italy & Truffle Tour in early October 2018.  Moreover, we’ll be staying on the historic estate of one of the area’s best Valpolicella and Amarone producers, Serego Alighieri (descendants of one of Italy’s most famous authors, Dante Alighieri).   Availability on this tour is just two spaces.  www.WineKnowsTravel.com.

Italy’s Premier Bubbles

                      Nearby Lake Iseo & the Alps both help moderate the wine district’s climate

Serious lovers of Italian wines know that in addition to Barolo, Barbaresco, and Super-Tuscan, Franciacorta’s sparkling wines ranks among the primo wines produced in all of Italy.  If you have never heard of Franciacorta you’re in store for a magnifico experience, especially if you’re a connoisseur of top of the line French Champagnes. (BTW:  Don’t even think, however, of putting Franciacorta in the same category as Prosecco.  Franciacorta is about complexity, depth, breadth, finesse, and terroir.   Light-hearted Prosecco is about simplicity.)

The Franciacorta wine district is located approximately half way between Venice and Milan.  Although relatively unknown on the world-wide sparkling wine market, it’s well known among knowledgeable European wine consumers that Franciacorta produces Italy’s highest quality bubblies.  But, Franciacorta hasn’t always famous.  While this district had been producing wine for centuries, it was only for local consumption.  In the 1960’s experiments showed that the terroir was perfect for sparkling wines. Franciacorta was officially recognized as a serious sparkling wine district in 1967 when it was awarded a DOC (its own wine appellation).  Over the past 60 years the district’s growth has been impressive and quality has been pushed to the maximum.  Franciacorta is now a coveted DOCG, Italy’s highest honor for a wine district.

Like Champagne, the Franciacorta bubbles are produced with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  Both wine areas use the same labor intensive process (Methode  Champenoise) where secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle.  In both wine districts sparkling wine is bottle-aged on its lees (spent yeast cells).   This aging of wine on its lees is a crucial step in the process of creating quality.  Because of E.U. laws protecting the Champagne brand, this method of making sparkling wine in Franciacorta is called Metodo Classico.  

There are two distinct differences between Franciacorta and Champagne---the first being scale, the second being history.  Champagne produces 100 times more bubblies than Franciacorta (in fact, some of the larger Champagne houses actually produce ten times more bottles than all of Franciacorta wineries combined).   While Champagne has been producing sparkling wine for about 350 years, Franciacorta is a bambino at a mere 60 years. 

Pricing?   Like Champagne, Franciacorta is not inexpensive.  Franciacorta sparkling wine begins in the $40 US range and leaps up to nearly $150 for its priciest single-vineyard bottles.   My favorite Franciacorta producers (in alpha order) are:  Bellavista, Ca Del Bosco, and Ferghettina.  

Next Fall (2018) Wine-Knows will visit Franciacorta on its tour through Northern Italy which begins in Venice and ends in the wine area famous for Barolo and Barbaresco (Piedmont).  This trip has been perfectly timed for Italy’s most famous foodie event, Piedmont’s Truffle Festival.  There are only two spaces available on this trip.  For details visit www.WineKnowsTravel.com.

Tuscan Whites---an Oxymoron?

                            Vernaccia vineyards surround the charming town of San Gimigano

Tuscany is really red wine country (Brunello di Montalcino and Chianti, are both made from the area’s signature Sangiovese grape).  But, those in the know, understand that there are now two white varietals from Tuscany that are responsible for some lovely white wines. Vernaccia di San Gimignano (grown around the medieval walled town of San Gimignano, a popular stop for tourists) and Vermentino (from Tuscany’s coastal area) are producing two wines that command respect.

Vernaccia di San Gimignano was the first Italian white grape to be granted DOC status (1966), which means only grapes grown in a demarcated area around San Gimignano) can use this on their label.  In 1993 the Italian government upped the ante by awarding these wines the special DOCG status (the “G” supposedly guarantees the quality as DOCG wines are tasted by a panel).

Vernaccia from the land surrounding the village of San Gimignano produces a medium-bodied white.  The wine has a characteristic flavor suggesting almonds.  It has good acidity which means it is quite refreshing…even on Tuscany’s hot summer days.  In addition, it works well with vegetables, pasta and fish.   Best producers are Il Colombaio di Chiara and Fontaleone.

Vermentino is one of my favorite summer wines.  The varietal is grown along the Tuscan coastline (and neighboring Italian Riviera, as well as the island of Sandinia where the varietal reaches rock-star status).  In these areas near the sea  temperatures are more moderate than the inland area where Vernaccia di San Gimignano is grown.  The wine is very aromatic, a combination of floral and fruit notes.  Whenever we serve Vermentino (which is frequently as an aperitivo during San Diego’s nearly year-around warm weather) everyone raves and wants to know what it is.  My favorite Tuscan Vermentino is made by Poggio al Tesoro.  Wine-Knows has an appointment scheduled with this producer in the June trip when we have leased a 10,000 square foot villa on Tuscany’s coastline.

Frappato---the Perfect Summer Red

Looking for a light-bodied red to sip by the pool, or to have with an antipasto on a hot summer’s eve?  How about a red that works with fish?  I have just the wine.  Frappato is an Italian varietal (both the name of the grape, as well as the name of the wine), grown primarily in Sicily.  It produces a dry light-bodied wine, a lovely choice for summer imbibing.   Never heard of it.  That's not unusual, as until recently Frappato was not seen much outside of Italy.

Frappato is now becoming more popular in the U.S.  As sommeliers seek out new varietals for sophisticated consumers who are tiring of the “same old thing,” this one ticks all the boxes for an interesting summer red.  I was recently surprised to see it on the well-chosen wine list of one of my favorite Italian restaurants in San Francisco, Sociale.  My well-traveled dining companion had never heard of the varietal, so it was a must choose…and it didn’t disappoint.  The Frappato paired beautifully with our fish as well as a wild mushroom pasta.

The Frappato grape, indigenous to Sicily, can be vinified soley.  The best zone for the single varietal Frappato  is southeastern Sicily.  In this zone Frapatto  is given a DOC status denoting a special geographical area.  Frapatto is also part of the island’s famous blended wine Cerasuolo di Vittoria.  This wine is the only one in Sicily that has been awarded the coveted DOCG, Italy’s top wine pedigree.  Cerasulo’s blend is typically 40% Frappato and 60% of Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s hallmark red grape. 

DNA studies show that Frappato has a close genetic relationship with Sangiovese.  Somewhere in the past, Sangiovese crossed with some other grape and created what we now know as Frappato.   Its Sangiovese heritage contributes profiles of red cherries and plenty of acidity to pair with food, however, there are other elements that cannot be linked to Sangiovese.  For example, Sangiovese typically has few aromatics, but Frappato offers a great nose of cherries and raspberries, often along with elements of red licorice and herbs.   Moreover, while Sangiovese is tannic, Frappato’s tannins are much more moderate and approachable. 

Valle dell’Acate is a great producer of Frappato.   Gulfi makes a wonderful rendition of the blended version, Cerasuolo di Vitteria.  If you’re coming to Sicily this fall with Wine-Knows you’ll not only be staying on the Gulfi wine estate for three days, but you will also be trying a variety of Frappatos including Valle dell’Acate.

Nero d’Avola—Sicily’s Signature Grape

Nero d’Avola is rarely found outside of Sicily.  Brought by the Greeks to the Mediterranean’s largest island (Sicily), it is named because of its almost black skin (nero means black in Italian).  It is also named after the town of Avola, located close to the town of Siracusa where the Greeks arrived several centuries B.C.

The varietal, which flourishes in Sicily’s hot and arid climate, is the most planted red grape on Sicily.  Nero d’Avola is often compared to Syrah, as the two thrive in similar growing conditions.  Syrah is also an intensely colored grape.  Both Nero and Syrah offer sweet tannins as well as peppery and plum profiles.  Nero, however, is more aromatic and its seductive flavors of raspberries, cherries nearly billow out of the glass.

There are > 100 different micro-climates in Sicily and Nero has its own distinctive features depending on which area it is grown.  In general, the western side of the island produces more intensely concentrated black-fruit wines that can be harsh and muscular.  In Sicily’s central area, the grape tends to produce wines that have more red fruit character.  But, it is in the southeast, that Nero d’Avola reaches its pinnacle where wines are elegant with after tastes of dried fruits.  The Wine-Knows group that will be visiting Sicily this Fall will be staying on a famous wine estate in this prized growing region.

The grape can be vinified as a single varietal, or blended with others.  The most famous blending is with Frappato to make Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s only  DOCG (Italy’s top wine classification).   Here 30-50%  of Nero d’Avola is blended with the lighter weight Frappato.  Nero adds the muscular backbone, while Frappato’s freshness softens.  More recently, Sicilians have even begun to blend Nero with Syrah trying to create a more international-style wine.

What to pair with Nero d’Avola?  Grilled meats and chicken are perfect, however, Sicily’s famous pasta a la Norma (eggplant and tomatoes) is also magnifico.  Another of the island’s most prized culinary items is swordfish.  Especially if it’s grilled, swordfish can be lovely when paired with Nero.

Prosecco is CROATIAN in Origin !

DNA technology is responsible for apprehending criminals, curing diseases that were once thought incurable, as well as finally putting to rest the misleading origin of many of the world’s wine grapes.  Prosecco, an increasingly popular Italian sparkling wine, is one of the latest to have its birthplace accurately identified…and it’s not Italy!

First things first.  Prosecco is the name of the grape, but it’s also the name of the bubbly.  This wine comes from the hills outside of Venice.  A few years ago, this area was granted a special status (DOCG) by the Italian government.  Similar to the Italian wine laws that protect the coveted Barolo, Barbaresco and Brunello de Montalcino, legally only grapes from the Prosecco area can be used to make the sparkler.  The law is meant to protect “knock-off” bubblies from being called Prosecco. 

Now, back to the DNA findings.  The Prosecco grape has been shown through genetic analysis to come from Croatia…probably the Istrian Peninsula which is contiguous with Italy.  (After World War I Istria actually became part of Italy, but it was given to Yugoslavia post World War II.  Yugoslavia was later carved up and the Istrian Peninsula became part of Croatia.)   Prosecco’s Croatian origin has caused quite a scandal in the European Union (EU).   The new Italian wine laws granting a protected place of origin (DOCG) to Prosecco have mandated that Croatia’s “Prosec” (a sweet wine) must change its name to something else as it’s too similiar to the protected name of Prosecco.  How ironic is that?  The grape ends up being Croatian by birth, but the Croats have to change the name of their wine to accommodate Italy’s wine laws.

The 2014 tour to Croatia has the option of starting in Venice.  Come have a Bellini (Prosecco mixed with peach juice)  with us on the Grand Canal, and then we’ll hop a short ferry to the Istrian peninsula where we’ll sample their Prosec….and we’ll certainly not touch the subject of EU politics.

Italian Wine Laws Change

For all of us who have battled for years the alphabet soup of Italian wine laws  (DOC, DOCG, IGT, VDT), get ready to have your world rocked as they are changing.  Originally formulated in 1963, the laws are being standardized to match the other member countries of the European Union (EU).

The purpose of the laws, both original and new, is to protect the reputation of regional wines and prevent knock-off products (e.g. Algerian wines bottled as a pricey Barolo).  The laws protect not only the names and origin of wines, but other food products such as cheeses (Parmiggiano-Reggiano), hams (Prosciutto di Parma), balsamic vineagar (Balsamico di Modena).

Here’s a recap of how the Italian laws will change:

• There will be no more D.O.C. and D.O.C.G. wines
• D.O.C. and D.O.C.G. will now be called D.O.P. (“P” for “Protected” origin)
• There will be no more IGT wines
• I.G.T. wines will now be called I.G.P. (like above, “P” for “Protected” origin)

Just like when Italy’s currency changed from the Lire to the Euro, there will be a period when both the old and the new systems will be used.  This is good news for consumers who can gradually ease into the transition of the new system (note:  it is unknown at what point this dual system will end).

While standardization among EU countries will make it easier in many ways, it’s still hard to teach an old DOCG new tricks.   In some ways, one could argue that the new DOP is for DOPEs.