Lake Garda: Roman Ruins, Castles & Wines

Lake Garda has a unique microclimate that allows palm trees, lemons, olives & grapes to flourish 

Italy’s largest lake, Lake Garda, has been an important crossroads for thousands of years.  Because of its strategic location on north-south-east-west routes connecting Rome, Northern Europe, France & the House of Savoy, and the Ottoman and Venetian Republics, its architecture and traditions feel distinctly different from other Italian lake regions.  History has been layered onto its vast shoreline.

           Verona's Roman coliseum, which seats 15,000, is now used for outdoor operas & concerts

The Romans, who settled in Lake Garda 100 B.C., had an immense influence on the area for >500 years.  Recognizing Garda’s strategically important position, they founded new towns such as Verona which became a major military and economic center.   Affluent Roman aristocrats build lavish villas on Garda’s shores.  Roman baths, temples, theaters and their aqueduct knowledge transformed the region.  Olive trees and wine grapes were cultivated and flourished in Garda’s Mediterranean climate.  Roman ships sailed the lake for commerce and military transport.

                     Bardolino is the name of a lakeside village, a wine district, and a wine

Today the Roman influence on the Lake Garda region is still palpable:

 Architecture & Layout:  Many towns still retain their Roman era street patterns (grid layouts with streets intersecting at 90 degree angles).  Romans built on foundations, used paved roads and raised sidewalks; all of these are instrumental today throughout the region.

Economy:   Lake Garda’s economy is driven by tourism.   Roman sites are among the most visited attractions.  Local tour operators offer sight-seeing specifically focused on Roman history, showing how deeply this era is still woven into the region’s cultural identity.

Culture:  Roman heritage blends with medieval, Renaissance & Hapsburg layers (northern European) making it not only a unique combination from other places in northern Italy, but a defining thread in Lake Garda’s cultural story.

                                Scaglier Castle was built in the 13th century for protection

During medieval times a multitude of castles were built at strategic locations on Lake Garda.  This autumn Wine-Knows will be visiting the most famous one built with towers, ramparts and a moat:  Scaliger Castle was built in the thirteenth century on the southern tip to control the lake and to protect nearby Verona. 

            Wine-Knows has a private dinner scheduled at the historic wine estate of Dane Alighieri

Lake Garda is surrounded by numerous wine districts and Wine-Knows will be visiting three of them during their October tour.  Valpolicella, known for its complex red wines produced from indigenous grapes, will be showcased during visits to three of the area’s most well-regarded producers, including one known as the “Godfather of Amarone.”  Wine-Knows will also be visiting the lakeside town of Bardolino famous for its lighter style red “Bardolino” wines.   Last, the group will visit an award-winning winery in the hills above Lake Garda which produces an impressive range of both white and reds.

This enchanting lakeside town will be Wine-Knows' stop for lunch

Lake Garda offers a deep cultural history in a way few places do.  Blend this with its stunning natural beauty, add a plethora of world-class wines, and a visit to Garda is certain to please even the most discerning of travelers.

Valpolicella Is Much More Than a Wine

     Wine-Knows will have a private dinner at the historic wine estate of Dante Alighieri in Valpolicella    

Valpolicella stands out among Italian wines because it isn’t just one wine.  It’s an entire spectrum of styles based upon ancient techniques only found in the hills north of the city of Verona.  Located halfway between Milan and Venice, the Valpolicella region offers a unique winemaking history and offers one of Italy’s most compelling wine stories.

What defines Valpolicella’s character?

Valpolicella’s charm lies in how authentically “local” it is.  The grapes are all indigenous to the area and rarely seen outside the district.  Wines are created primarily with the Corvina grape, although Corvinone, Rondinella and Molinara are other locally-birthed varieties often used in the blend.  These rare grapes give the wine:

~ great acidity (think framework)

~ red fruit profile, especially cherries

~ soft tannins (light to medium bodied wines)

~ spicy, almond, & floral nuances develop often in their aging process

Winds from Lake Garda play a vital role in dehydrating grapes stored in open-air buildings

Four styles that make Valpolicella unique:

Few other wine regions in the world offer such a clear stylistic “ladder” of wines, a kind of simple to complex hierarchy.

1.  Vallpolicella is the first step on the ladder.  This “classico” style is fresh, bright, cherry driven, and very approachable even in its youth.

2.  Ripasso (which means “repass”) is next.  It’s richer and spicier because the wine is passed over the grape skins a second time to add extra depth.

3.  Amarone is a powerful, complex dry wine made from partially dried grapes (an ancient tradition called “appasimento” which concentrates flavors).  This method gives Amarone an intense depth of flavor such as dried fruit, chocolate and spice.   As it ages these flavors become even more pronounced. 

4.  Recioto, the last step on the area’s ladder, is a sweet dessert wine made from the dried indigenous grapes of the region.  The historical method of “appasimento” is used to concentrate sugars and aromas, predominantly dried cherries, figs, chocolate & spices.

What foods pair with Valpolicella’s four unique types of wines?

     ~  Starting with the “Classico” Valpolicella and working our way up the ladder, the Classico is a versatile red that works with pizza and pasta, but also pairs with foods that you would typically pair with white wine (e.g. fish).

     ~ Ripasso Valpolicella, exposed to grape skins a second time, easily works with heavier and richer dishes such as roasted meats (including lamb & venison), wild mushroom risotto and other heavier, complex dishes.

     ~ Highly-structured and full-bodied Amarone calls for bold food pairings.  It is perfect with grilled red meats but also works with rich recipes for wild game.  Amarone, however, also can accommodate spicy and sweet international dishes (e.g. smoked or glazed pork, and even duck with oranges).  Bold Amarone also pairs with aged cheeses (including strong blue cheese) making it a perfect accompaniment to the end of a meal.

`    ~ Like Amarone, Recioto, can also work at the end of a meal with strong aged cheeses, but it’s a superstar with desserts such as cherry-based sweets and chocolate.

     Wine-Knows has taken over the entire villa of revered Valpolicella producer, Allegrini for 3 nights

Those of you coming on this October’s trip to northern Italy will see first-hand this jewel-box wine region.   You’ll even view the traditional appasimento method for drying the grapes.  Life is too short for boring wine, and in Valpolicella, boring is never on the wine list.

Enticing Valpolicella

                                  Sensational Lake Garda is home to Valpolicella wines

How can you possibly go wrong with a wine district whose name means “valley of many wine cellars?”  Another no-brainer:  its location is between the magical cities of Venice and Verona.  Last, add to the equation that the stupendously beautiful Lake Garda is part of the wine region.  Valpolicella is compelling on all of these levels, and many more.

Wines have been made in the Valpolicella district since the time of the ancient Greeks before the birth of Christ.  In 1968 the region was awarded its own DOC (appellation) by the Italian Government.  Since then, parts of the district have been bestowed a further award by the granting of a special DOCG to the area's Amarone wines.  (Amarone, the region’s pricey flagship wine, will be discussed soon in a future article.)

Valpolicella is both a wine-producing district and a wine.  Red is the dominant color.  Reds are made from a combination of grapes, all mostly unknown to Americans.  Corvina, the main varietal, is blended with other grapes such as Rondinella and Moninara.   The most basic level Valpolicellas are light-bodied, lower in alcohol, and noted for their cherry flavor.  Valpolicella Superiore wines, however, must be aged a minimum of one year in oak barrels.  The Superiore is more complex and offers more structure along with more intense aromas of dried cherries.  Often times the Superiore version is made using an old wine making method in which the aristocratic skins remaining from the area’s powerful Amarone wines are mixed in with Superiore must and undergo a secondary fermentation.

Both levels of Valpolicella wines frequently offer great quality/price ratios on wine lists.  Equally important, these wines pair well with most foods.  The Superiore is especially nice with grilled poultry and meats, and can stand up to pastas that use strong cheeses such as Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Wine-Knows will be in the Valpolicella district next year on its Northern Italy & Truffle Tour in early October 2018.  Moreover, we’ll be staying on the historic estate of one of the area’s best Valpolicella and Amarone producers, Serego Alighieri (descendants of one of Italy’s most famous authors, Dante Alighieri).   Availability on this tour is just two spaces.  www.WineKnowsTravel.com.